AX90046 SCX10 II Jeep Cherokee Kit Build Series – Part 5


We’re getting into some fun territory here on our SCX10 Jeep Cherokee Kit Build, moving on to the transmission assembly. The build is fairly straight forward with a few notes that you need to know in order to build this important part of the vehicle properly. You’ll only need a few tools here such as a 2mm hex driver, needle nose pliers and the kit box wrench. Let’s build!

Axial SCX Transmission2
First up is building the gearshafts which is faily simple unless you jumped right into putting parts together and not reading the manual. Note, there are two bearing sizes in the parts bag. The larger bearings are used in this step. Also there are two types of cross pins used to support the gears. You’ll need to use the larger pins here. And finally make sure you use the correct spacer tubes on the shafts shown here. Slide the parts together as shown.

Axial SCX Transmission3
Now we can slip the assembled shafts into the transmission half. Before doing so, coat the gears in grease.

Axial SCX Transmission4
Slip the other half of the transmission case on the shafts and give them a little wiggle to help seat the bearings in the case. Screw the halves together and install the transmission support post.

Axial SCX Transmission5
The transfer case is assembled next. Push the bearings into the case first.

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This is somewhat of a tricky step. You’ll want to start by pushing the transfer case half on to the transmission over the output shaft. Then you’ll need to use your pliers to install the small cross-pin that keys to the gear. Once that is done, you can install the rest of the gears, shafts and pins. Then place the outside transmission half on and bolt it together with the supplied hardware.

Axial SCX Transmission7
The motorplate and back half of the gearcover are up next. These are simply pressed together and bolted onto the transmission case with three screws.

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The slipper assembly gets a few notes too. Start by washing your hands. You don’t want greasy fingers on the pads. Next remove the white paper from the pad revealing the adhesive. Carefully place the pad into the keyed spur gear. Do this for both sides. Now slip a metal plate on the top shaft, followed by the spur gear bushing, the spur and then the second metal plate. Follow this with the spring and retaining nut. Tighten the retaining nut until you see 2-3 threads of the top shaft. This is a good starting point until you adjust the slipper later.

Axial SCX Transmission9
Finalize the slipper assembly by installing the spring and retaining nut. Tighten the retaining nut until you see 2-3 threads of the top shaft. This is a good starting point until you adjust the slipper later.

Axial SCX Transmission10
Now is the right time to install your motor and pinion gear. There is a slot in the side of the gear cover that will allow you to tighten the pinion gear with your 2mm hex driver. Take your time to set the gear lash properly so it doesn’t bind, nor is too loose.

Axial SCX Transmission11
Button up this transmission build by installing the gear cover on the front. Just be sure to carefully slide it on so the tab covers the slot where your hex driver was used to install the pinion.

Axial Yeti XL Pre-run Checklist – Read Before You Run


So you just picked up your Yeti XL and are ready to go bashing! Take a few moments to check out some recommendations to make sure you have the best experience possible.

Pre-run checklist:

Check the screw tightness, especially around the front bulkhead

YetiXL Pre-Run Blog

YetiXL Pre-Run Blog

Wheel nuts – We recommend using a ratchet with an 8mm socket to install and remove the wheel nuts; this is easier on the hands than the included wrench.

YetiXL Pre-Run Blog

Battery install – Your Yeti XL comes with foam spacers for using two 2S batteries or two 3S batteries. You can run your batteries with their leads exiting the front of the tray or the rear of the tray

If using standard hard case 2S batteries, use the long skinny foams on top or bottom, and the block foam in front or back. We prefer rear battery lead exit and rear battery placement with the foam on top to keep the weight as low and back as far as possible.

YetiXL Pre-Run Blog

YetiXL Pre-Run Blog

If using standard 3S batteries, store the long skinny foams and just use the block foam to keep the battery from moving front to rear tugging on the leads.

YetiXL Pre-Run Blog

Trimming the tabs slightly that hold the battery doors closed may help with large batteries. Using a small x-acto knife, you can cut a small amount of plastic out to make sliding the pins in on the battery doors much easier.

YetiXL Pre-Run Blog

YetiXL Pre-Run Blog

When unleashing the massive amount of power this rig has to offer, it is possible to rip the tires from the wheels, especially if they did not get fully glued from the factory. It is highly recommended to make sure the tires are fully glued before running. Using your fingers, tug on the tires all the way around all the wheels and make sure they are fully attached.


Check screw shafts on transmission outputs

YetiXL Pre-Run Blog

Check wiring for proper routing (should be away from any moving parts) and for any loose connections.

YetiXL Pre-Run Blog

Before using your new rig, buy the wife/GF something nice because you won’t be spending much time with her once you unleash the Yeti XL. (This last one is probably the most important). Clicking here is a good start.

If for some reason you disregarded that last piece of advice, or happened to read this blog after the fact, you may be forced to buy one of these…..


If you are a girl and purchased the Yeti XL, reverse this process as us guys are cheap and expect cubic zirconium’s laid in titanium bands.

Please make sure to check back regularly for the latest information and tips! As always thank you for your support!