AX90046 SCX10 II Jeep Cherokee Kit Build Series – Part 7

tech_jeep_cherokee_build_500px
Our AX90046  build series continues and up until now, it’s been assembling sections of the rig, but when we’ve finished, it still looks like a pile of parts. Well, in this blog entry, the build is really going to start to take shape. Here we’re going to assembly the chassis and start bolting on all of those sections from the previous steps. Let’s make this pile of parts look like a rig!

STEP 1
Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 2
First we turn our attention to the battery tray. The Velcro strap needs to slipped into the tray with the fuzzy side facing out. This will allow the hook of the velcro to secure to the loop. While the tray is out, you should install the battery position tabs in the tray. This is often left out, but if all of your packs are the same, its a good idea to use these so your battery doesn’t shift.

STEP 2
Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 3
Next up, install the servo mount and brackets. No real tips here, just make sure you don’t overtighten the screws and strip out any holes.

STEP 3
Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 4
The servo goes in next with the splined output facing forward. Don’t forget to use the sire wire security strap/ tabs which makes wire routing much cleaner.

STEP 4
Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 5
The front tower goes on next. The tower with the panhard bar mount is used here. Pay extra attention to the size of the hardware used.

STEP 5
Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 6
Lots going on in this step. Start by installing the side tray on the chassis, but before doing so, take special note that the servo lead wire is run between the tray and frame rail for a nice clean look. The screws for the tray also secure the transmission to the frame rails. After the tray is in, install the correct rear shock tower and then the cross members. Pay attention to the frame holes the tower is postioned in. This corresonds with the proper wheelbase for this build.

STEP 6
Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 7
Now the opposite side frame rail is installed. Start securing the rail by screwing the shock tower into position.

STEP 7
Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 8
The tray goes into position next. The hardware will secure the tray to the frame and in turn secure the transmission.

STEP 8
Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 9
Time to button up the rest of the chassis assembly by installing the  front tower and front bumper mount screws.

STEP 9
Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 10
The assembly is really getting interesting now! Take your front axle and link assembly and start attaching it to the chassis by inserting the center Wild Boar Driveshaft to the axle output and install the retaining screw-pin. With the driveshaft in place, you can screw the links to the chassis.

STEP 10
Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 11
Next, the shocks are installed onto the shock towers and lower brackets. Make sure you use the front shock assemblies here. Don’t overtighten the shock mounting screws. Overtightening can pinch the plastic ball studs.

STEP 11
Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 12
Here is a tricky part. Installing the servo horn. If you went ahead and screwed the panhard bar to the mount, it might be easier to get the horn onto the servo by removing the panhard link. With it out of the way, install the servo arm on the steering link and secure the horn to the servo. We know you already centered your servo before installing it… right?

STEP 12
Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 13
Just like the front, the rear axle and link assembly gets bolted to the frame. Remember to install the driveshaft first before attaching the links to the chassis.

STEP 13
Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 14
Bolt the rear shocks to the towers and axle brackets.

FINISHED

SCX Chassis

Now it’s starting to look like an SCX10II.

AX90046 SCX10 II Jeep Cherokee Kit Build Series – Part 6

AX90046SCX10II_JeepCherokeeKit_Build_Series_Part6

Assembling the Wild Boar Driveshafts is a fairly simple task and should only take you a few minutes to complete. There are however a few tips we’re going to throw in to make sure the parts work well for those long treks on the trail. Ready, set, build!

TOOLS NEEDED
2mm Hex Driver
Side cutters
Supplied grease and threadlock also required

STEP 1
Axial SCX WB Driveshafts 1
Start by cutting the driveshaft parts from the parts trees. The trees have various size driveshaft parts on them so reference the manual to see exactly which parts you need.

STEP 2
Axial SCX WB Driveshafts 2
Here we start to assemble the driveshafts and it is extremely important to add thread lock to the screws before inserting them into the driveshaft and screwing it into the universal mounting boss.

STEP 3
Axial SCX WB Driveshafts 3
After the end is screwed into the driveshaft, place a small dab of grease on the hex driver and use it to coat the inside of the driveshaft end.

STEP 4
Axial SCX WB Driveshafts 4
With the ends greased, you can slip the universal barrels into the ends.

STEP 5
Axial SCX WB Driveshafts 5
Slip the drive cup over the end and line-up the cross-pin holes. Once the holes are lined up, you can insert the pins.

STEP 6
Axial SCX WB Driveshafts 6
To secure the pins in place, you’ll simply need to slide the plastic sleeve over the cups. Set-screws will hold these in place later.

STEP 7
Axial SCX WB Driveshafts 7
Assemble the rest of the driveshaft by inserting the appropriate slider into the Wild Boar shafts.

STEP 8
Axial SCX WB Driveshafts 8
Now the shafts are attached to the transmission output shafts. Here you’ll use the set-screw pins to secure the drive cups to the output shaft. You may use a dab of threadlock on the set-screws for extra security. Note, if the holes for the drive cup do not line up with the shaft, you may have installed the shaft incorrectly, go back and rebuild the gearcase if necessary.

STEP 9
Axial SCX WB Driveshafts 9
The skidplate is up next for installation. This is simple, secure it to the transmission case with the two provided flathead allen screws.

STEP 10
Axial SCX WB Driveshafts 10
The transmission mounts are installed next. Pay close attention to the direction in which they are installed. Snug the two buttonhead screws that secure the mounts.

FINISHED
Axial SCX WB Driveshafts 11
With several sections of the manual complete, the next steps will really start turning parts into an actual rig. Make sure you check back for the next part of our kit build!

AX90046 SCX10 II Jeep Cherokee Kit Build Series – Part 3

AX90046SCX10II_JeepCherokeeKit_Build_Series_Part3
Up next in the build series is assembling the links. Probably one of the best parts of the build, am I right guys?! Well, it might not be everyone’s favorite because it is some repetitive work, but what brightens up this particular job is that this kit comes with aluminum links which is preferred over composite links. This is some simple work but there are a few tips and tricks we can pass along.

TOOLS NEEDED
2.0mm hex driver
Side cutters

STEP 1
Axial Kit Build1
As always its best to gather the parts bags you’ll need and run through the steps in the manual quickly to help identify any details that require extra attention.

STEP 2
Axial Kit Build2
A little tip we like to pass along is to arrange the aluminum link tubes in size order so you identify them a bit easier as you go through the build steps.

STEP 3
Axial Kit Build3
Find the aluminum tubes used for the first link assembly. If you’re unsure of what size tube to use, you can place it on the 1:1 drawing to find the correct size.

STEP 4
Axial Kit Build4
Take a close look at the instructions to identify what rod ends you’ll need. There are a number of styles, some on angles and some are straight. You want to make sure the part number in the manual matches the rod end you use or there could be some suspension bind if you use the incorrect rod ends.

STEP 5
Axial Kit Build5
Using the 2mm hex driver, screw the set screws into the rod end until you just feel them bottom out.

STEP 6
Axial Kit Build6
Screw the rod ends into the aluminum tubes. Make sure the final locations of the ends match the illustrations in the manual.

STEP 7
Axial Kit Build7
Axial Kit Build8
Next you’ll need to insert the pivot balls into the rod ends. Note, the pivot balls have a large flanged end and a narrow end. Note the way they are installed as illustrated in the manual. Some links have both flanges face the same side while other links have an off-set installation.

STEP 8
Axial Kit Build9
The steering links and pan hard link should now be assembled. You can install them on the axle and steering knuckle with the hardware as indicated in the manual. Do not overtighten the screws. The pivot balls are plastic and can be crushed if you tighten the screws too much.

STEP 9
Axial Kit Build10
Next build the three links that will support the front axle and tie it to the chassis.

STEP 10
Axial Kit Build11
Screw the three links to the front axle, making sure the rod ends are facing the correct way as indicated by the illustrations.

STEP 11
Axial Kit Build12
By now you should have a good understanding of how the links go together. Assemble the four remaining rear links and attach them to the rear axle.

FINISHED
Axial Kit Build14
The link assembly is complete! If you used a hand tool, by now your wrist should be tires and your fingers sore from holding onto the rod ends. Congratulations you’re fitting nicely into the model community. Keep an eye out for the next steps of our build series where we’ll get into building the shocks.

Note: This How To Can Also be Used For Link Sets:
SCX10 II Front Links Set – AX31465
SCX10 II Rear Links Set – AX31466

AX90046 SCX10 II Jeep Cherokee Kit Build Series – Part 2

AX90046SCX10II_JeepCherokeeKit_Build_Series_Part2

Building your AX90046  kit is going to be a great and rewarding experience. You’ll see how each and every piece fits together and you control the build how you want it to be assembled. We’re starting the build at the beginning of the manual of course. This also means we’ll be starting with bag A and will eventually need to dip into some other bags of supporting parts.

TOOLS NEEDED
Axial Kit Build19
Cutters
1.5 and 2.0mm Hex Drivers

STEP 1

Axial Kit Build1

Open Bag A and organize your parts so you can see everything you’re working with.

STEP 2

Axial Kit Build2

Start by assembling the spool and ring gear. The gear is held onto the spool with three M2x8mm screws. Use a small drop of the included thread locking compound on each screw before installing it. Tighten the screws well so they do not back off. Then slip the 7x14x3.5mm bearing onto each end of the spool. Make two of these.

STEP 3

Axial Kit Build3

You now need to search for additional parts outside of Bag A. Look for Plastic Bag 1. This will have the axle parts you need for the next several steps.

STEP 4

Axial Kit Build4

Push the appropriate bearings into the plastic axle housing that support the bevel pinion gear followed by the gear itself. Take the supplied grease, puncture the end and liberally coat the ring gear on the spool with grease. More is better here, but make sure you have enough to coat the axle gears and the transmission gears later in this build.

STEP 5

Axial Kit Build5

Slip the spool assembly into the axle housing. It will only fit in one way. Cap the axle with the cover and the four M2.6x18mm screws. Use a quality 2mm hex driver to tighten the screws to a firm feel.

STEP 6

Axial Kit Build6

Next find the rest of the plastic axle components. When it time to cut them from the parts trees, use a good quality sprue cutter.

STEP 7

Axial Kit Build7

Cut the steering knuckle from the tree and insert the appropriate bearings into the knuckle to support the front universal shafts.

STEP 8

Axial Kit Build8

Push the universal driveshafts into the bearings.

STEP 9

Axial Kit Build9

Turn your attention back to the axles. It’s time to install the C-carriers. Slip the bearing into the axle followed by the carrier and secure it with the screw. Take extra time here and follow the manual. These carriers are installed in a certain way that is well diagrammed in the manual. Failure to install them correctly will result in some funky geometry that will not work well on the trail.

STEP 10

Axial Kit Build10

Slip the assembled driveshafts with carriers into the axle housing. You’ll then use the shoulder screws to secure the knuckles to the C-carriers. Take note of the direction of the parts here too. When screwing in the shoulder screws, make sure they are a bit past snug. Don’t over-tigthen the shoulder screws or you chance stripping out the C-carrier.

STEP 11

Axial Kit Build12

Gather up the parts to complete the rear axle assembly.

STEP 12

Axial Kit Build13

Slip the half-shaft into the axle housing making sure the flat end keys into the spool. Then place a bearing at the end of the shaft.

STEP 13

Axial Kit Build14

Slide the axle extension tube over the half-shaft and secure the part in place with the pinch screw.

STEP 14

Axial Kit Build15

We’re getting close to wrapping up the axle assembly. Locate the link mounts and secure them using M2.6x1mm screws. Tighten these screws firm, they support the suspension links. Install two link mounts on each axle case.

FINISHED

Axial Kit Build18

Here are the assembled front and rear axles. This build blog would also be helpful if you were building the AX31438 AR44 Locked Axle Set for a custom project. Take your time and build the axles right for smooth bind free operation.

AX90046 SCX10 II Jeep Cherokee Kit Build Series – Part 1

AX90046SCX10II_JeepCherokeeKit_Build_Series_Part1
The debate over which style of RC kit is better, ready to run or build kit, may never be resolved, but one thing is for sure, Axial serves up both styles for either type that suits your style. Since Axial builds a lot of projects, the team tends to lean towards a kit to build and well there are some exciting build projects in the works. So while we’re building up a new AX90046 SCX10 II™ 2000 Jeep® Cherokee 1/10th Scale Electric 4WD Kit to use as the base for a build, we charged up the camera to take some pictures along the way of a stock kit build. If you have any questions about building your SCX10 II kit, you’ll be able to reference this build series to get you through any steps. In the first part of this series, we’re going to go over the basics of the kit itself and things you’ll need for the perfect build.

2
When you get your kit, the first thing you should do is? Anybody? Empty the box and roll around in the Axial goodness? No that’s just too weird man. The first step is to go through the contents and familiarize yourself with what’s in the box.

3
Put your hand on the body, flip the box over and viola! The kit contents all packed up in an XJ shell.

5
Here’s the bag you should get into first. The bag with the manual.

7
If it’s your first time building a kit, you should read through the manual first. Look at what you need. Take note of hardware sizes. Look at the types of parts. What parts bags go with what steps. A run through ahead of time will minimize miss steps or something else that may throw your build off track.

8
When going through the steps, take out some of the parts bags so you know what to look for when you get to that particular step later.

9
The need to open a new bag may come at any time.

10
Sometimes it’s a good idea to lay out the parts bags in the order you’ll be assembling them.

12
13
14
Wait! What are these green nubs and the religious item included in the kit? These green domes are course markers. They are put on the trail so you know where to drive your rig. If you get into competitions, you’ll see more of these on the trail. The silver tool is a cross-wrench that will service most hardware nuts on the truck.

16
Now let’s get into what you need. With most kits, you’ll need electronics and you’ll need to pick these items up at your local hobby retail store or your favorite online business; Horizon Hobby has all of the gear shown above. For the SCX10 II Kit, you’ll need a radio with receiver, a steering servo, motor, speed control, battery, charger and possible connectors for your ESC.

17 18
Next up on the you’ll need list is tools. There are two examples above. The top is a bit more expensive tool set-up while the set below is a less expensive set that will get the job done too. You’ll need cutters, pleirs, a hobby knife, scissors, hex drivers and even nut drivers to complete the assembly of your kit. Here are some links to the tools above:
Dynamite Metric Hex Driver Set- DYNT2030
Dynamite Nut Driver Set- DYNT2010
Dynamite Start-up Tool Set- DYN2835

19
Finally the chemicals you’ll need. Some CA glue such as the thin adhesive shown here from Dynamite for the tires and some paint for the body. Window masks are included with the kit, but if you want to spray your body more than one color, you may need some masking tape to use for your designs.

6
No seriously; did you read the manual? Do it, it helps. That wraps it up for the introduction of this build series. Make sure you follow the build each week while we get this truck ready for off-road action.

 

 

How To: Install the AXI31555 Blazer Hard Top

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Axial’s AX90058 SCX10 II 1969 Chevrolet Blazer is certainly one good-looking ride, but the addition of the AXI31555 Hard Top is sure to catch the attention of many Blazer fans. In this article, we show you a step-by-step procedure on how to mount this cap. But, before we do, let’s go over some of the tools you’ll need to get the job done.

TOOLS NEEDED:
1. 1.5mm Hex Wrench
2. Scissors (specialty scissors for cutting polycarbonate plastic)
3. Reamer (for drilling holes)
4. Paint (for polycarbonate bodies)

LIST OF PARTS USED:
AX90058 Axial SCX10 II 1969 Chevrolet Blazer RTR
AXI31555 Axial Blazer Hard Top

STEP 1

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Before we build, let’s look at what comes in the AXI31555 Blazer Hard Top package. There’s the polycarbonate plastic shell, instruction sheet, window masks, sticker sheet and hardware bags. Easy enough, right?

STEP 2

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top A closer look at the instruction sheet. It also documents the opening rear window, a cool feature but more needed to get to the body clips!

STEP 3

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Window masks. I peeled off the excess to make it easier to see the actual window parts. Note the top and bottom are for the side windows, the center is for the rear window.

STEP 4

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Before you stick the window masks on, make sure you wash the Hard Top with soap and water. Dry it completely – you may even want to let it sit out for a little bit to air dry, just to be sure. Peel off the masks and stick them on. They don’t have to be perfect as we’ve included external decals, but you want to get them as close as possible.

STEP 5

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Paint whatever color you want; I did black since I figured it would match the Blazer body well.

STEP 6

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top After the Hard Top is done drying, cut it out, remove the window masks and the overspray film. Now, as an added detail, sprayed the outside of the Hard Top with a matte clear coat to soften up the shine. If you want to replicate this, DO NOT remove the overspray film. First, use a sharp blade (Xacto brand, Olfa, etc) and cut out around the windows, then remove the overspray film. If you don’t cut out the windows, you’ll clear coat them as well and you won’t be able to see through them.

STEP 7

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Using the hardware enclosed, attach the mounts to the Hard Top. Note that there are two different designs of mounts; you don’t want to mix these up when you install them. Read the instructions carefully.

STEP 8

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Assemble the swiveling tailgate mount…

STEP 9

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top …and attach it to the tailgate. You’ll need to notch the tailgate first; there are scribe marks to show you where to cut.

STEP 10

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Attach the tailgate assembly to the Hard Top.

STEP 11

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top The tailgate should swing freely. If not, you may need to trim the notches until it does.

STEP 12

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Here’s a quick inside look at the tailgate mounted to the Hard Top. You can also, at this time, attach the tailgate lift handle.

STEP 13

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Ream 4 small holes into the Blazer body; there are already dimples in place. Note that you only need to ream the front- and rear-most holes as shown.

STEP 14

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Set the Hard Top in place and attach with the supplied hardware. Set your completed Blazer down, step back and revel in your masterpiece!

Axial Deadbolt and Wrangler CRC Bumper Mod

CRC_Bumper_Mod

As you continue to grow into your Axial SCX10 II and become more comfortable driving the rig, you’ll want to progress your adventures beyond daily driving. When doing this, you’ll start to think more about approach angles to obstacles and this is when things like the scale replica bumper on the truck may hold you back. Sure the bumper looks cool, but it’s overhang may prevent you from getting over some tough terrain. When you reach this point, you might want to consider modifying your bumper. Here we’re going to go over a CRC bumper modification that many seasoned scale drivers are already doing. You’ll need a few basic tools you may already have on hand and just a little bit of time at your workbench. Let’s get started.

TOOLS NEEDED
2.0mm Hex Driver
Lexan Scissors
Drill & 2.5mm drill bit
Dremel tool with sanding drum

BEFORE WE BEGIN
Axial CRC Bumper Mod 2
Before you jump right into your bumper modification, let’s take a look at the stock bumpers position, just so you can see how much it has moved once the mod is complete.

STEP 1
Axial CRC Bumper Mod 3
Using a 2mm hex driver, remove the two screw pins that hold the bumper to its mount.

STEP 2
Axial CRC Bumper Mod 4
Using a marker, mark the area that will need to be cut away from the original bumper in order to move it farther back in the chassis. Note, you’ll want to clear the chassis rails, so make sure you start your marks on the outside of the frame rails.

STEP 3
Axial CRC Bumper Mod 5
Using a pair of Lexan scissors, cut along the line you marked on the bumper. Be aware that there are thin support tabs in the bumper that will need to be cut as well.

STEP 4
Axial CRC Bumper Mod 6
Toss scrap plastic and if you wish, clean up the cut edges on the bumper with a Dremel tool and sanding drum. Be sure to wear eye protection.

STEP 5
Axial CRC Bumper Mod 7
The thin support plastic tabs you cut through before are also located on the top side of the bumper posts. These will need to be cut away too, to allow the bumper to slide further into the mount. Using straight scissors, cut the tab close to the post and close to the bumper plate.

STEP 6
Axial CRC Bumper Mod 8
Now you can “rip” the rest of the little support tabs out with a pair of needle nose pliers.

CHECK YOUR WORK
Axial CRC Bumper Mod 9
With the bumper cut up and the tabs removed, insert the bumper to make sure your cuts were enough. We have plenty of room here to cut the ends of the mounting posts and move the bumper even farther back.

STEP 8
Axial CRC Bumper Mod 10
With a pair of side-cutters, cut the ends of the bumper posts off at the last hole.

STEP 9
Axial CRC Bumper Mod 11
We’re getting close to finishing. Insert the bumper as far back as it will go in the mount, making sure it’s square to the chassis. Take your drill with 2.5mm bit and drill new holes into the bumper posts using the holes in the chassis mount as a guide.

STEP 10
Axial CRC Bumper Mod 12
Grab the bumper mounting screw pins and screw your bumper back in place in the new set back location.

DONE
Axial CRC Bumper Mod 13
The bumper relocation is complete. See how much closer it is to the battery mount? You’ve now reduced the amount of front bumper overhang and should be able to approach steeper obstacles to conquer.
Axial CRC Bumper Mod 14

SCX10 II Handling Adjustment – $3 Shock Mod

SCX10II_HandlingAdjustment

We’re guessing by now you’ve logged a lot of miles on your SCX10 II ready to run rig. The truck has probably served you well tackling new terrain wherever your adventure takes you. So what’s next? How about improving your rig for better handling on those to tough to conquer trails. The stock out of the box SCX10 II is set up for general scale trail use, but the highly capable platform can improve as you improve and the tuning trick we’re about to show you will cost you just a few bucks and will take less than ten minutes of your time to complete. What we’re going to do here is lower the CG of the SCX10 II by simply relocating the lower shock mounting point. The shock end comes mounted to the axle on its own mounting boss. But, by relocating it to the same mounting point as the lower link, it lowers the overall Center Of Gravity of the chassis and a lower COG equals better handling. Let’s get started!

WHAT YOU NEED
axa120
3x25mm Button Head Machine Screw- AXA120
3mm Thin Nylon-Lock Nut- AXA1052 (Optional)
Basic hobby tools- 2.0mm hex driver, wheel nut wrench and long nose pleirs

Step 1
SCX Shock Mod 1
Let’s get the easy stuff out of the way. Remove the wheel nut caps, wheel nuts, wheels and lower shock mount screws from all four corners of your SCX10 II.

Step 2
SCX Shock Mod 2
Now, remove the screw that secures the link to the axle and place it in your spare hardware bin.

Step 3
SCX Shock Mod 3
Take the new long 3x25mm button head screw that you spent a whole $3 on and insert it through the shock end, into the axle mount with the link in place and screw it all the way in.

Step 4 (Option)
SCX Shock Mod 4
The screw will be secure as it has been screwed into the plastic axle mounting boss. But if you want to go one step further in security to make sure that screw doesn’t back out, you can add a thing 3mm Ny-Lock nut to the end of the screw. Tighten the nut snug.

Step 5
Repeat Step 2-4 for the remaining shock/ link points.

Step 6
Reinstall your wheels, nuts and caps.

SEE THE DIFFERENCE
SCX Shock Mod 6
You can see above, the left shock is in the stock location and the right shock has been relocated to the new position in-line with the lower link. The axle is also visibly lowered on the right side in the photo. Once all four shocks have been relocated and the truck turned upright, the chassis will now be lower in comparison to the stock position.

BACK TO THE TRAIL
Now you’re ready to head back out and try and navigate some of those tough terrain features that may have defeated you prior. With the lower CG, your rig will benefit from the modification. Keep in mind, this will not be a night and day difference. You still need to choose your lines and wheel speed wisely. Make sure you keep checking back to the Axial blogs as we’ll continue to offer tuning secrets to help your SCX10 II improve as you improve. #AxialPerformance

SCX10 II Trail Honcho Truck Tips & Tricks For Noobs

TrailTruck_Tips&Tricks

Getting your RC adventure underway has never been easier with the well equipped, affordable SCX10 II Trail Honcho ready to run. This revival of the original Honcho body, from the famed SCX10, now features an updated electronics package combined with improved SCX10 II platform. It’s aimed at getting anyone into the hobby and on the trails with success. It of course is also a great truck for the seasoned enthusiast. But our focus here is on the many who will pick up an RC transmitter for the first time with the Trail Honcho and we want their first adventure to be the best of many trail driving experiences to come. Here we’ll go over all the basics from the unboxing to checking over your rig for its first run, tips for your first drive and tricks to keep it in proper running order.
Honcho 3

UNBOX
Before just diving into your new RC adventure, take the time to unbox and educate yourself about everything that encompases your new Honcho kit. Inside the box, you’ll need to cut the zip-ties securing the truck to the inner box support. Remove the radio from it’s packaging and dip into the bag with instructions and accessories. The most important step here is to read the manual. Although we’re walking you through the paces here, it is always best to familiarize yourself with the manual in case you have any questions in the future. After your up to par with manual, take a look at what is included with the kit. You’ll find a bag of “extra parts” these parts are unused during the assembly of the kit and may be used for future projects once you get hooked on your Axial adventures and trust us, you will get hooked. There will also be some basic tools in the kit, these should be transferred to your adventure backpack as they make great tools for on-trail repairs. And finally you’ll notice some green “domes” we’ll talk about this later.

Honcho 2
Honcho 1

GET IT RUNNING
We’re moving onto the fun part; getting your Honcho going. First remove the four body clips that secure the body to the chassis, remove the body completely and set it aside. Now you can access the battery tray. At some point at your local hobby shop or online, you’ve purchased a battery and charger for the rig. Locate the battery tray and unhook the Velcro strap. Slide your charged battery into the tray and secure the velcro back in place to retain the battery. Next move to the transmitter and install four AA batteries that you supply into the radio. Power the radio on using the switch on the face of the radio. Now move back to the SCX10 II and plug in the battery. The battery plug is your on/off switch for the truck. Tip: The radio is always on first and off last. Your SCX10 II is now powered up and ready to go after placing the body back on the truck and securing it with the four clips.

Honcho 4 Honcho 5

RUNNING CHECK
Head outdoors and place the Honcho on the ground for a quick systems check. The electronics should be dialed in from the factory, but things can happen. You’ll want to check to make sure your trims are set properly. First is your truck moving on its own when you power it up? If so, you will need to use the throttle trim on your radio to reset your neutral point. Use either button for throttle trim to find the neutral. If you tap the trim on one side and the truck starts moving more, it means you’ll need to use the opposite button to get the throttle back to neutral. Keep tapping the button until the car stops (is at its neutral point.) With the throttle set, check to see if the truck tracks straight. With the vehicle pointing away from you, give the truck a little throttle. Note if the truck tends to “drift” towards the left or right. If so, use your steering trim to find the neutral point of the steering in a similar fashion to the throttle adjustment.
trim
Honcho SCX10 2

GET THE FEEL
Wait! Now that your truck is trimmed, you probably have the urge to pin the throttle and see what the truck can do. We’ll get there. First start by driving slow in a figure eight pattern. This means giving the truck a little bit of throttle trigger input and steering the truck in a figure eight pattern; turn the wheel right, go straight a bit, turn the wheel to the left, repeat. This will help you get a feel for how the steering feels reversed when coming towards you. When the truck is going away from you, steering the radio wheel to the right will always turn the truck to the right, but will feel reversed coming back towards you. Get a feel for the throttle range in both forwards and reverse. Note: the throttle is not an on/off switch and is proportional. In trail truck driving much of your rock crawling adventures will happen at a slower speed.
Honcho SCX10 7

TACKLE YOUR FIRST OBSTACLE
Before going out and driving on the gnarliest terrain you can find, practice on something less harsh. Find small hills or rocks with a slight incline to drive on. First drive straight up and down the obstacle. Note the amount of throttle it takes to make the incline and how the drag brake in the speed control affects the decline. Next drive up on an angle. Like a real vehicle, the trucks center of gravity may want to cause the truck to roll over. Determining the type of angle you can drive on before the truck wants to roll over is all a part of developing driving skill.

Honcho SCX10 6

DRIVE POINTS
With a general feel of how the Honcho drives, you can venture out for tougher obstacles. Find steeper inclines, off-set rock ledges, varying rock surfaces and use your newfound vehicle control to try and get your truck over the terrain. Think about where the wheels need to be places on rocks, how much steering you need to use, how much throttle and where will the truck be positioned when you’ve tackled what’s in front of you. Remember, you need to set yourself up for the next obstacle too. Then it will become time to refine your lines, challenge yourself and that’s where those little green domes come in that you found in the kit. These green things are gate markers and they are set on trail courses for your rig to pass through. They’re usually placed in positions that will challenge your skill. Find challenging parts on your trial and place these markers so you can practice driving through gates.

Honcho SCX10 3

ROLL OVERS
What happens when your truck rolls over? Well, in real life, if a truck rolls over, no big hand reaches down from the sky to flip it back over. So, you need to use vehicle control to try and right the truck. If the Honcho is completely upside down, try using throttle and steering to “wiggle” the truck over. Or towards a nearby object. The point is to get the wheels to grab onto something to help pull it back over. If the truck is on its side, you can turn into the ground and give it throttle. This will oftentimes pull the truck out of the roll over and back onto its wheels.

Honcho SCX10 5

FIND NEW ADVENTURES
The rest of your driver education is up to you. To improve your skill, try locating nearby parks or even an urban adventure away from the public. Finding new places to have an adventure each time you go out with the Honcho will improve your driving skill. But in the bigger picture, you’re also going out and finding new adventures for yourself. Adventures that will not only build skills and love for a hobby, but will also build memories.
Honcho SCX10 4

MAINTENANCE
Once your adventure outdoors is over, you’re not exactly done with your Honcho rig. A maintained rig is always a well performing rig. Take the time to remove any dirt and debris from the truck. A simple 2” paintbrush and a little elbow grease knocking off dirt from the truck can clean it up. Compressed air works as well. If your adventure lead you into the wetlands, take a look at our Driveline Maintenance Tips to help you with your clean-up procedures.
Honcho SCX10 1

OPTIONS
At some point, You’ll want to join the custom club. Installing option parts to make your honcho stand out or to make it more durable for the adventures you’ll put the rig through. Here are five option parts we recommend you take a look at when taking your SCX10 II Honcho to the next level.  

Gear Set (48P 28T, 48P 52T)
Part- AX31585
If you read the story of the Honcho taking on the Redonda Ridge Adventure, you saw the rough terrain eventually took its toll on the transmission gears. Luckily this is an inexpensive upgrade up to steel gears if you feel your truck needs it.

Aluminum Servo Horn 25T (Hard Anodized)
Part- AX30836
The steering is among one of the most abused parts of any vehicle. Swapping the stock plastic servo horn for the aluminum option could prevent any unwanted steering issues on the trail.

M4 Serrated Nylon Lock Nut
Part- AXA1046
For obvious reasons the wheels endure a lot of abuse during use. This on occasion can lead to a wheel nut backing off. The locking serrated nuts grab onto the wheels for extra security.

SCX10 TR Links Set – 12.3″ (313mm) WB
Part- AX30550
Although the links on the SCX10 II Honcho have been greatly improved over the previous units on the SCX10, upgrading to aluminum links is a popular upgrade for many adventurers.

Steering Upgrade Kit
Part- AX30426
Like the suspension links, the stock plastic steering link can take a lot of abuse and flex during use. In this set, you can use the long link to upgrade your SCX10 II.

Honcho SCX10 7
KEEP IT INTERESTING
With your new found hobby and new found key to adventure, keep things interesting by continuing to drive on new trails, build new courses in your backyard, continually modify and upgrade your Honcho to reflect you, your likes and interests. Every day is a new adventure behind the wheel of the Honcho and can give you new found enjoyment outdoors while learning new sets of skill. When you do conquer a new challenge, be certain to document your experience with a photo on social media and give it the hashtag #AxialAdventures so other adventurers can see what you’re up to.

 

Axial LCX Transmission Parts List

 

lcx-transmission-break-down

Found in: SCX10 II CRC Edition 2017 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited

Stock Gearing
LCX: 32P 13T Pinion / 56T Spur Gear

Axial LCX Tranmission Parts List

Gearing Chart

32 Pitch (Stock Gearing AX30392 or AX30395)

_
Spur Gear

Pinion
56
60
64
68
11
38.69
41.45
44.22
46.98
12
35.47
38.00
40.53
43.07
13
32.74
35.08
37.42
39.75
14
30.40
32.57
34.74
36.91
15
28.37
30.40
32.43
34.45
16
26.60
28.50
30.40
32.30
17
25.04
26.82
28.61
30.40

32 Pitch (Overdrive Gearing AX30401)

_
Spur Gear

Pinion
56
60
64
68
11
34.04
36.47
38.90
41.33
12
31.20
33.43
35.66
37.89
13
28.80
30.86
32.91
34.97
14
26.74
28.65
30.56
32.47
15
24.96
26.74
28.53
30.31
16
23.40
25.07
26.74
28.41
17
22.02
23.60
25.17
26.74

32 Pitch (Underdrive Gearing AX30402)

_
Spur Gear

Pinion
56
60
64
68
11
43.78
46.91
50.04
53.16
12
40.13
43.00
45.87
48.73
13
37.05
39.69
42.34
44.98
14
34.40
36.86
39.31
41.77
15
32.11
34.40
36.69
38.99
16
30.10
32.25
34.40
36.55
17
28.33
30.35
32.38
34.40

divider

AXIAL LCX TRANSMISSION PARTS LIST

AXA0023 M2.6x8mm Cap Head Screw
AXA013 M2x6mm Cap Head Screw
AXA1045 M4 Nylon Locking Flanged Nuts
AXA1218 Bearing 5x10x4mm
AXA1225 Bearing 8x16x5mm
AX30162 Straight Pin
AX30394 20T Drive Gear
AX30413 Slipper Spring
AX30435 Steel Outdrive Shaft Set
AX30190 Shaft
AXA146 M3x12mm Socket Head Screw
AX31026 Slipper Plate
AX31027 Spur Gear 32P 56T
AX31068 Slipper Pad
AX31531 LCX Transmission Case
AX31539 LCX Top Shaft (Coming Soon)
AX31585 Gear Set (48P 28T/ 48P 52T)