Step By Step Wraith Kit Build – Part IV – Transmission

For Part IV of our Wraith kit build I will cover assembly of the transmission. The transmission for the Wraith is still based off our proven AX10 and SCX10 transmissions. Assembly is still very similar as well, with just a few minor changes. So, let’s get started!

Go to page 22 in the kit manual, start at step 19. Find bag D and your plastic transmission housing parts tree.

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All the parts needed to complete this step.

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Grab your slipper drive gear shaft, 20t drive gear and 1.5x8mm cross pin. Slide the cross pin through the hole in the end of the shaft.

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Now slide the 20t drive gear into place over the pin.

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Install a 5x10mm bearing on each side of the 20t drive gear.

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Slide the shaft into the top hole in the transmission case.

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Install two more 5x10mm bearings into the small plastic idler gear, then slide the 5x18mm shaft through the bearings.

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Insert the gear into the transmission case beside the first gear/shaft assembly.

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Now it’s time to assemble the main spool gear. Everything needed for this step. Notice I left out the small plastic ring, labeled AX80051 in the instructions, that is suppose to be sandwiched between the transmission outputs. It’s not needed, that is a misprint in the manual.

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Install the main drive gear between the two transmission outputs.

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Add a dab of thread lock to the screws that will hold the main drive gear assembly together. It’s not noted in the manual, but it is a good idea. These screws see a lot of stress, especially with big motors and batteries.

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Go around the 3 screws holding the main gear assembly, and torque them down as evenly as you can. Then install the 8x16mm and 15x21mm bearings over the outputs.

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Now add a thin layer of grease the main drive gear.

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Drop the main gear into the transmission case. Give the whole assembly a spin to spread the grease evenly over the gears.

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Moving on to step 20. Everything required to complete this step.

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Slide the 2nd half of the transmission case into place.

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Install the small plastic spacer over the slipper clutch gear shaft, part number AX80051-8.

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Slide the spacer into the recess in the transmission housing.

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Install the backside of the spur gear cover into place over the slipper shaft.

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Set the motor plate into place over the spur gear cover.

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Install the 3x15mm self tapping screw into the transmission case to tie the two halves together.

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Add a dab of thread lock to the 3x25mm screws for the motor plate.

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Thread the 25mm screws into the motor plate, and torque them down evenly as needed.

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Moving on to step 21, grab everything you need to build the slipper clutch.

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Start with assembling the spur gear. Grab the outer slipper plate, spur gear, three 3x6mm cap head screws and three flat washers.

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Slide the flat washers over the screws, slide the screws through the spur gear and thread them into the outer slipper plate. Torque the screws down evenly.

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Now slide the second 1.5mm pin into place in the slipper shaft.

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Install the inner slipper plate over the drive pin.

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Slide the spur gear assembly into plate so the friction pad is sandwiched between the slipper plates.

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Install the biggest flat washer into place on the slipper shaft, part number AXA1091.

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Slide the slipper spring into place next.

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Install the smaller flat washer, part number AXA1071.

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Now start the M4 Nylock screw onto the slipper shaft. You will need a way to hold the transmission outputs still while you tighten down the slipper clutch. Easiest way I found was inserting something into the transmission output holes. Then tighten down the slipper clutch as needed. I usually tighten mine all the way down until the nut stops, then back it off 1-2 full turns for a good starting point.

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Slipper clutch complete.

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Next we will tackle the spur gear cover, and finish the transmission assembly. Everything needed to complete this step.

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Install the short M3 set screw into the 20t pinion gear.

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Install the single 5x11mm bearing into the backside of the transmission cover, part number AX80051-1.

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Pop the small round plastic cover into place on the backside of the transmission slipper shaft, part number AX80051-7.

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Now slide the back transmission cover into place over the rear output.

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Install the 3x12mm self tapping plastic screws into the backside of the transmission cover, on each side of the transmission output.

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Now install the 3x6mm screws into the top of the transmission housing.

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Grab the front side of your spur gear cover.

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Install the spur gear cover over the spur gear.

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Tie the spur gear cover to the transmission using the supplied 2.6x10mm flat head self tapping screws.

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Next tie the transmission to the kit’s skid plate. Everything required for this step.

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Use the four self tapping plastic screws to tie the transmission to the skid plate. Note that 2 screws are slightly shorter, make sure they go into the proper holes to avoid stripping out the transmission mounting holes.

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Install a male half shaft to the spur gear side of the transmission output.

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Now grab your front axle, the skid plate/transmission assembly and required screws to complete this step.

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Start by mating the driveshafts, then install the upper links into position on the skid plate using the supplied 3x15mm self tapping screws. Lastly, flip the whole assembly over and install the long 3x20mm set screws through the lower links.

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Grab your rear axle and repeat the last few steps.

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And you’re done! It’s really starting to take shape now.

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That takes care of this installment of our step by step Wraith kit build. Next up, we will start assembling the roll cage/chassis.

Axial Wraith Kit Build Series

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 5

Step 6

Step 7

Step By Step Wraith Kit Build – Part III – Links

For part 3 of the Wraith kit build we will cover building the links. I am also going to use a few upgrade parts in this step as well. Go to page 18 in the instruction manual, start with step 11.

All the parts required to build the lower links. Notice I am using the metal flange balls again for the lower links.

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Here you can see everything needed to build a single lower link. Use a 1.5mm driver to install the M3 threaded rod half way into the rod ends.

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Pop the flange balls into the rod ends and screw them into the lower links. Make sure the long curved rod ends are facing opposite ways. All 4 lower links completed.

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For the next step I am going to upgrade from the stock plastic upper links to our machined aluminum high clearance links in grey, part number AX30469, for extra durability. You will also need our M3 threaded studs and 2 packages of the metal flange balls I mentioned earlier. You can use the extra short curved rod ends that are included in the Wraith kit to build these links too.

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All the parts laid out to build a single upper link.

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Pop the metal flange balls into the rod ends. Install the M3 threaded rod half way into the rod ends, and thread them into the upper links. Again, make sure the rod ends are facing away from each other.

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All 4 upper links completed.

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Now it’s time to tie the links to the axles. Start with the front axle, then grab one driveshaft, 2 lower links and the required hardware.

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Slide the output of the driveshaft onto the pinion shaft, install the M3 screw shaft and tighten up as needed. You don’t need to go overboard torquing the driveshaft screw either, just snug it up. Then tie the lower links to the lower hole in the shock/link mounts.

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Next we will install the upper links and shocks.

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Start with the upper links, and install the long side of the links into the upper link mount on the axle. Secure the upper links to the axle with the supplied M3x30mm screw and Nylock nut. Then install the lower shock mounts into the upper hole on the link/shock mounts and secure.

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Moving on the front servo mount and steering linkage.

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Assemble the servo mount plate and servo posts. Use your steering servo to set the width between the servo posts before tightening them down.

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Install the servo mount onto the top of the front axle.

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Next we will install the servo arms on the knuckles. Use the extra M3 machined screws from the first installment of this build, if you are using aluminum knuckles and C-hubs. They are the same length as the M3 screws used for the kingpins in the knuckles.

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Now install your steering servo.

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Find your steering links and hardware. Here are all the parts required for this step.

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Install the flange balls into your steering linkage, I am swapping out the plastic balls for metal again in this step too.

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Secure the drag link to the steering tie rod using the supplied M3x12mm self tapping screw.

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Install the servo arm onto the opposite end of the drag link.

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Install the supplied M3x15mm screws into the knuckle steer arms from the top.

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Now secure the steering tie rod to the bottom of the knuckle arms.

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Slide the servo horn onto the output shaft of the servo, and attach using the supplied M3x6mm screw.

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Last step for this installment is rear links and shocks. Start at step 17 in the manual. These few steps are just about identical to the front axle assembly.

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Attach the driveshaft and lower links.

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Grab your upper links and shocks, and secure them to the axle like you did for the front.

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Both axles complete, with shocks, links and driveshafts installed.

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That takes care of this installment of the Wraith kit build. Up next, building the transmission.

Axial Wraith Kit Build Series

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Step 4

Step 5

Step 6

Step 7

Step By Step Wraith Kit Build – Part II – Shocks and Driveshafts

For this installment of our Wraith kit build I will cover shock and driveshaft assembly. Start off by finding bag B.

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Another upgrade I am going to use on this build is metal flange balls. I will be using these in all the rod ends on this kit. They have a little smoother action then the plastic flange balls, and are a lot more durable over time.

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First step will be prepping the shock cartridges. Here you can see all the parts required to make a complete cartridge.

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Install the bigger clear o-ring over the shock cartridge body.

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Apply a little grease to your cartridge o-rings. Put a dab of grease on your finger and work the grease all over the o-rings before dropping them into your shock cartridges. This will help prevent tearing the o-ring during assembly.

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Install the first o-ring into the shock cartridge.

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Now set the plastic spacer (Part #AX80035-4) into place on top of the first o-ring.

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Lube up the second o-ring and install it on top of the plastic spacer.

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Now snap the top cap of the shock cartridge into place.

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Grab your shock shafts, washers, pistons and Nylock nuts. I used the three-holed pistons for this build, to speed up the action of the shocks a little.

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Install one flat washer onto the shock shaft, slide the shock piston into place, install the second flat washer and tighten the Nylock nut down until it stops.

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Insert the shock shaft into the shock cartridge from the top cap side, and wipe away any excess grease from the shock shaft threads.

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Slide the rubber bump stop over the shock shaft.

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Snap the metal flange ball into the shock rod ends, and thread them onto the shock shafts.

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Install the shock bladders into the shock caps. Make sure the bladder is properly seated down into the cap before threading it onto the shock body. This will help keep the bladder from distorting as you tighten the shock cap, and eliminate any chance for leaks.

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Install the threaded pre-load collar onto the shock body, then install the cap.

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Fill the shock body up with oil until it touches the threads inside the shock body. Make sure you let all air bubbles rise to the top of the oil and dissipate before starting assembly.

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Thread the shock cartridge/shaft assembly a couple turns into the shock body, oil should start overflowing at this point. If no oil seeps out, fill the shock body with a little more oil.

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Compress the shock shaft until it bottoms out to allow any air bubbles and excess oil to escape. You can do this by holding the shock shaft in the compressed position and thread the shock cartridge all the way into the body as tight as you can with your fingers. The shaft will rebound a bit when you let go of it, which is normal. Now grab a 10mm box wrench and tighten the cartridge down all the way. Cycle the shock a few times at this point and look for leaks between the cartridge and shock body. If you still see a little oil bleeding out, tighten the cartridge up more.

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Investing in a 10mm wrench for the shock cartridges is key in my opinion, it’ll make rebuilding your shocks so much easier. I spent $7 on this wrench with a ratcheting box end at Ace Hardware. You can also just buy a standard 10mm wrench for about $4. Pliers can be used to tighten the cartridges too. But, over time the pliers can ruin the hex on the plastic cartridges, especially if the pliers slip off the hex while you are tightening everything up.

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Now install the springs, lower spring cups and shock bushings. That completes the shocks.

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Next we will move onto the driveshafts. Go to step 10 in the manual, and find bag C.

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All the parts needed to complete this step.

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First thing we’ll do is slide the u-joint axle pin holder into the driveshaft output.

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Line up the hole in the pin with the slot in the output.

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Slide the driveshaft coupler over the ball end of the output, line up the 1.5mm hole with the slot in the output, and hole in the center pin. Then, slide the 1.5x11mm pin through the whole assembly.

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Slide the 1.5x11mm pin in until it’s flush on both sides.

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Grab the plastic driveshaft retainer ring and slide it into place.

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Next we will attach the metal u-joints to the plastic half shafts. Grab one of the female plastic half shafts, one of the u-joint assemblies and an M3 flat head screw.

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Add a dab of thread lock to the threads of the flat head screw.

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Insert the screw into the driveshaft from the splined end with a 2mm driver.

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Now slide the half shaft onto the coupler, and tighten down the M3 flat head screw.

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Repeat the above steps 3 more times and the driveshafts will be complete.

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That will do it for this installment of our Wraith kit build. Next step we will tackle is the link assembly, so stay tuned!

Axial Wraith Kit Build Series

Step 1

Step 3

Step 4

Step 5

Step 6

Step 7

Step By Step Wraith Kit Build – Part I – Axles

Now that the Wraith kits are hitting hobby shops, we figured it would be a perfect time for another step by step build. I recently built up one of these kits and took photos of each and every step. Over the next few days you will see this build progress, step by step, with photos and descriptions. I will also show a few different option/upgrade parts as well with this particular build. For the first step in this build we will go over what’s inside the box, then start with the construction of the axles.

Prepping my desk for the build.

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A peak inside the box shows all the goodies!

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Here you can see the contents of the kit laid out.

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The decals and instruction manual.

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Step 1 in the manual says locate bag A.

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Find the hardware bag, which contains all the metal parts required for this build. Open it up and look for bag A.

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Bag A located.

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Bag A’s contents.

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Here are all the parts required to build both differentials.

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Start off with what you need to build the first ring gear assembly.

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First thing we’ll do is install the locker in the plastic differential case, and place the differential gasket over the ring gear.

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Now mate the differential case to the ring gear and attach using the supplied 2mm screws. Then slide the bearings over the bosses on each side of the differential. Repeat these steps for both assemblies.

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Assembling the pinion gear is next. Insert the 2mm pin through the pinion shaft hole closest to the end of the shaft with the E-clip groove cut into it, and slide the pinion gear into place over the pin. Then snap the E-clip into place with a pair of needle nose pliers.

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Locate the AR60 axle housings and snap the plastic tabs off.

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Trim any excess plastic away from the housing with an X-acto.

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Find the differential cover parts tree.

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Here are all the parts required for step 2.

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Start with the first housing and the parts needed for assembly.

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Insert the first 5×11 bearing into the backside of the AR60 housing.

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Slide the 2nd 5×11 bearing into place on the pinion shaft.

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Press the pinion gear into the housing.

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Insert the differential assembly into the housing next. Make sure you note the direction the ring gear is suppose to be facing too. The teeth of the ring gear should be facing the short side of the housing for the front axle.

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Install the bearing caps with the supplied self tapping screws.

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Apply a little grease to the ring and pinion gears. Don’t go overboard with the grease either, a light coat that fully covers the gears is more then enough.

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Grab your differential cover and four 2mm screws.

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Install the diff cover with the supplied hardware. Also note the direction of the diff cover placement too.

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Now repeat the above steps for the rear axle. Again note the direction of the ring gear, the teeth should be facing the long side axle tube for the rear axle. This would be a good time to mark the axles so you know which one is for the front and rear. I marked the front axle with an “F” underneath the differential on the outside of the housing with a marker. Otherwise it’s easy to get the 2 axles confused during the build.

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That completes step 2.

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For step 3 I will be adding a few option parts, like aluminum C-hubs, knuckles and 3x10mm M3 screws, instead of the self tapping plastic screws. When you upgrade to the aluminum C-hubs the self tapping screws can no longer be used, since the C’s are tapped for M3 hardware.

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Slide the axle C’s into place, again note the direction in the manual.

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Insert the self tapping screws into the C-hubs.

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Install the 5×11 bearings into the ends of the axle tubes.

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Next step may seem off, but squirt a dab of Loctite on the flats of the axle shafts before installing them in the housing. This is done to minimize the slop between the locker and axle shafts.

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Slide the CVD axles into place.

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Now it’s time to prep the aluminum knuckles.

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Install the required bearings.

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Insert the flange pipes into the knuckles, slide the knuckles over the outer stub axles and install the 3x10mm M3 screws.

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Repeat the last few steps for the opposite side of the front axle. and Step 3 is done.

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Onto the rear housing, everything needed laid out for ease of assembly.

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Again add a dab of Loctite to the axle shaft flats before installing them. Slide the two 5×11 bearings into place and insert the rear straight axles into the housing.

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Slide the plastic lockouts into place and attach using the supplied hardware.

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Moving on to step 5, and the front axle. First thing I did was install the M3 set screws into the bottom of the axle housing.

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Grab the proper plastic axle truss and set it into place on top of the front housing.

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Attach the truss with the supplied hardware.

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Next we will attach the link/shock mounts. For this step I found the best way to get the Nylock nuts seated into the link/shock mounts was to use a small pick tool. Slide the Nylock nut onto the end of the pick, insert the nut into the link/shock mount, then twist and pull the pick out. The nut should stay seated in place.

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Attach the link/shock mounts with the supplied M3X16mm screws. Note the direction of these as well, they can be bolted on upside down by accident with ease.

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Repeat the last couple steps to finish off the rear axle. Both axles completed.

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That takes care of the first few steps in this build covering the axles. Next step will be shock build up and tuning.

Axial Wraith Kit Build Series

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4

Step 5

Step 6

Step 7

Wraith RTR Spare Tire Mod

I wanted to create more of a two-seater race style buggy. Something with the looks along the line of an Ultra 4 racer or KOH racer.

First I chopped off the back of the cage by cutting at the base of the C and D pillars and then at the back of the center support between the B pillar of the roof cage.

Trim the Lexan roof to fit the shortened roof cage.

Sand the rough cut edges of the cage to a smooth finish.

Using 7x60mm grey posts (AXA1429), M3x16mm set screws (AXA186), rod ends (AX80005), and flanged balls (AXA1331), I created the new rear down tube supports.

I trimmed the center support of the roof to make room for the ball flange. I bored out the rod end to slip over the rear shock brace tube. I trimmed up a piece of flat Lexan to create a cover for the battery area.

Next is to create the spare tire carrier. I started by using the spare tire mount from the Axial SCX10 Trail Honcho. It already has a really good angle to carry the tire.

I used a couple spacers 4x6mm (AXA1453) and 6x6mm (AXA1355) to lift the carrier up to fit the Ripsaw tire. I also put cone washers (AXA1104) underneath the Lexan to add strength. The last thing I had to do was trim the tire mount post of the carrier and add a hex hub (AXA30429) to keep the tire in place.

So there ya have it!!!! One Axial Wraith with an Ultra 4 style setup that has an aggressive unique look. With a little patience and a open Saturday afternoon you create the same look.

Axial XR10 Delivers 1-2 Punch at 2011 USRCCA Nationals

Axial recently attended the 2011 USRCCA Nationals in Las Vegas, Nevada. This event brings in the best drivers from around the world to compete for a chance to be the top R/C crawler on the planet. This year for the main event there were over 100 crawlers battling it out for that one top spot. After a long hot day of incredibly tight competition two XR10′s were standing at the top of the podium. Axial would like to congratulate Brian “Burbo” Lorenz (left) for his first place finish, and Scott “Squirrel” Hughes (right) for taking the top 2 positions this year with their XR10′s. Way to do work drivers!!

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The AXIAL Geocache #4 – Found!

Axial Geocache #4-2011

Congratulations to Scott Bridges of Sacramento, CA for finding the Axial Geocache #4.
Axial Geocache #4 Finder Scott Bridges
Scott found the Axial Geocache #4 on September 11th, 2011 at 10:11AM.
Here is what Scott had to say about his adventure.

“My name is Scott Bridges and the first thing I want to say is THANK YOU!
You guys at Axial have started a new revolution in the word adventure! Today was one of the most exciting trips ever! The trip was me, my best friend Marcus and another buddy Paul and I know from the pictures that we all have 1/5 scale bajas and a short coarse truck but that didnt stop us. I recently went out 3 weeks ago and FINALY got the rock crawler I’ve been waiting for (the XR10). So bought it for my birthday but I havent had the chance to get the electronics I want and need to complete it. Its my first electric car and first rock crawler. I expect on completing it very soon because Ive been DYING to go out and crawl! Im from Sacramento, CA. We left my house at 4 am on sunday (9-11-2011) and arived at the dirt road turn off at 9:30am. I found the Geocache at 10:11 am after a very fun and exciting hunt. It was raining and was 41 degrees but that didnt stop us! I was on a mission! Thank you very much for the adventure of a life time and I hope you continue to strive to be number one! Axial I feel is raising the bar to a new limit and I hope you guys push other companys to join the Geocache adventure and keep raising the bar!”


Not only did Scott just score a set of Axial AX12015 2.2 Ripsaw Tires, he also found some cool Axial Swag that is limited to our Axial Geocaching program. And for reporting back to us that he did find the Axial Geocache #4, we also sent him a set of Axial AX8091 2.2 Rockster Beadlock Wheels to mount those 2.2 Ripsaw Tires on. These things will work great on his Axial AX90017 XR10 Competition Rock Crawler. Make sure you stay tuned for the next Axial Geocache, it could be hidden in your area.
Axial Geocache #4 Finder Scott Bridges

Axial Geocache #4 Original Post:

It’s that time again to get active in the Axial Geocache Adventure. We have planted the AXIAL GEOCACHE #4 in a great location. We were out on a camping trip in the Sierra National Forest and figured it would be a great place to hide #4.  Grab your Axial RC rigs and go have fun finding this cache and tell us about your adventure.

Axial Geocache #4
N37 12.410 W119 10.926 (it works dropped into googlemaps)

Once you find the box, it’s yours. This is a cache and carry find. Tread lightly and leave no trace.

What we want from you:

Name / Address / Email / Phone

Photos of you and your Axial Rig at the Geocache site.

Time / Date of when you found the Axial Geocache #4

What you get from us:

More prizes on top of the prize that you will find.

Here are a few pics from the area.

AXIAL GEOCACHE #4
AXIAL GEOCACHE #4AXIAL GEOCACHE #4

Wraith Tuning Tips

The Wraith is a very capable rig out of the box. But, as usual, there are ways to improve it’s performance to make it even better. Here are a few tips to get the most out of your Wraith with minimal cash out of pocket, and a little time/effort spent at the workbench.

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Soften up the suspension:

The Wraith’s suspension is a little stiff out of the box, if you plan on just bashing with it as is. If you add scale accessories, a driver figure, spare tire, use a standard 6 cell stick pack, etc. it is probably about right. I left my Wraith pretty much stock, and found myself wanting a little bit softer suspension for those high speed rocky sections of trail. First thing I did was grab two packages of our “black” super soft comp shock springs, Part# AX30223 x 2. I rebuilt all four shocks using our 30wt oil, our 3 hole shock pistons and soft springs. If you don’t have 3 hole pistons, you can drill the existing holes out in the standard 2 hole pistons so they are just a tad bigger. Making this modification almost converts the Wraith to a “droop” suspension set-up, meaning there is very little “up” travel to the shocks, it’s almost all “down” travel. Under the it’s own weight sitting on a shelf, my shocks sit about mid-way into their overall stroke. How is that better you ask? This made my Wraith a lot more stable at speeds, as it lowered the overall center of gravity. This mod also helps it floats over rocks at full speed a lot better too, because the shocks can cycle through their travel more efficiently. As the tires come off the ground at speed the shocks extend under the weight of the axles, which will help absorb that next bump in the trail. If I had to suggest only one modification to a fellow Wraith owner, this would be the tip I give them. It makes a huge difference in how the Wraith handles at speed and over jumps.

The springs.

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The shock ride height after making this mod.

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Aluminum servo horn:

Another great mod is going to an aluminum servo horn on the steering servo, that is compatible with Futaba servos. Using an aluminum arm instead of plastic is a lot more durable, and helps your steering track a little straighter in the rough stuff at speeds. The plastic steering linkage will still flex enough in hard crashes to protect your servo. Plus, the stock Wraith servo has metal gears which most RTR’s don’t have.

Steel ball studs:

For performance reasons, I like to replace any plastic ball studs with steel. Ball studs are the pivot points that allow your links to cycle through their travel. The steel ball studs will smooth out the motion on your suspension and steering links. Over time dirt will work it’s way into either set-up and wear parts out. But, with steel ball studs the dirt is less likely to hinder link movement. This mod works very well when done alongside the shock rebuilding tips I mentioned earlier. All you will need is 4 packages of our steel ball studs/flanged balls, Part# AXA1331 x 4. I don’t have a link for these, but your local hobby shop or online retailer can get the correct parts with that number.

The ball studs/flange balls.

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Taking time to make these few adjustments will make a pretty big difference in how a Wraith performs, especially at speed on rough terrain. Happy Trails!!

Axial AE-2 ESC Set-up and Programming

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Set-up tips for installing and programming Axial’s AE-2 ESC.

Set-up:

1. Mount ESC in an area that is well ventilated, and isolated from vibration and shock.

2. Connect ESC wires to the motor(s).

3. Plug the receiver wire into the throttle channel on your receiver.

4. Before plugging the battery into the ESC, make sure your transmitter is on and that the throttle trim is set to zero.

5. Double check that the battery wires on the ESC are wired correctly, red on red and black on black. **Reversing the polarity will permanently damage the ESC**

6. Plug the battery into the ESC, with the ESC switch in the “off” position.

7. Apply full throttle on the transmitter.

8. Turn the ESC on while applying full throttle.

9. The ESC will emit a series of beeps through the motor with the “Red” LED.

10. Continue applying full throttle until the ESC blinks “Green” and emits a series of beeps to finalize the full throttle endpoint.

11. Once the ESC blinks “Red”, apply full brake/reverse, and hold.

12. The ESC will emit a series of beeps while blinking “Red” to finalize the reverse/brake endpoint.

13. Return the throttle to neutral and the ESC will emit a series of beeps to finalize the neutral point.

14. The ESC will emit one last series of beeps confirming the ESC is ready to go.

15. Apply throttle to make sure motor turns in the proper direction. To reverse the direction of the motor, switch the wires going to the motor.

Notes:

1. If ESC set-up does not initialize while holding full throttle, try switching the throttle reverse switch on the transmitter. Also double check that the throttle trim is still set to zero.

2. Lipo “Cut-off” is set to “On” from the factory.

3. Use the “Castle Link” to access the advanced settings in this ESC.

Specifications:

Input Voltage – 6 cell NiCad/NiMH or 2cell lipo**

Size – 1.7″ x 1.24″

Weight – 45 Grams

Motor Limit – 19t

On-Resistance FET – .0018

Rated/Peak Current – 106A Peak

Braking Current – 106A Peak

BEC Voltage – 5.0V/2A Peak

PWM Frequency – 6KHZ

**You can run higher voltage batteries such as a 7 cell NiCad/NiMH or 3 cell lipo with the installation of a “Castle BEC”

Manually programming Axial’s AE-2 ESC

Here are a few tips for programming Axial’s AE-2 ESC, without a computer or “Castle Link”.

You can manually adjust 3 of the most important settings in the AE-2 ESC.

1. Lipo Cut-off

2. Drag Brake

3. Reverse

Manual programming

Follow these steps to change settings on your Axial AE-2 ESC without a computer.

*Remove your pinion gear before calibration and manual programming as a safety precaution!*

STEP 1: Start with the transmitter ON and the ESC switched OFF and not connected to the battery.

STEP 2: Plug a battery into the ESC. Hold full throttle on the transmitter and turn the ESC switch ON. After a few seconds you will get the four rings in a row signaling full throttle calibration. Keep on holding full throttle. After a few more seconds, you will hear another four rings in a row. After the second group of four rings, relax the throttle to neutral. If you have successfully entered programming mode, the ESC will beep twice, pause, and repeat the two beeps.

STEP 3: The programming sequence is always presented in sequential order and always starts with the first setting (None) within the first section (Voltage Cutoff). The first beep(s) signifies which section of the programming you are in and the second beep(s) signifies which setting is waiting for a “yes” or “no” answer. As you go sequentially through the options, you will need to answer “yes” by holding full throttle, or answer “no” by holding full brake until the ESC accepts your answer by beeping rapidly. Once an answer has been accepted, relax the throttle back to neutral for the next question. After a “no” answer is accepted, the ESC will then present you with the next option in that section. After a “yes” answer is accepted, the ESC knows you aren’t interested in any other option in that section, so it skips to the first option in the next section.

Settings and explanations

The following section explains all the settings available to you via manual programming and what each one does to change the reactions of the ESC in order to tune it to your specific preferences. More settings are available via “Castle Link”.

1. Cutoff Voltage

Sets the voltage at which the ESC lowers or removes power to the motor in order to either keep the battery at a safe minimum voltage (Lithium Polymer cells) or the radio system working reliably (NiCad/NiMH cells).

Setting 1: None

Does not cut off or limit the motor due to low voltage. Do not use with any Lithium Polymer packs!

Use this setting ONLY with NiCad or NiMH packs. With continued driving, the radio system may eventually cease to deliver pulses to the servo and ESC, and the vehicle will not be under control.

You will irreversibly damage Lithium Polymer packs with this setting!

Setting 2: Auto-LiPo (Default)

This setting allows you to go back and forth between 2 and 3 cell LiPo packs without having to change the cutoff voltage for each one. The ESC automatically sets the cutoff voltage correctly for a 2 or 3 cell pack when that pack is plugged in.

2. Drag Brake

Sets the amount of drag brake applied at neutral throttle to simulate the slight braking effect of a neutral brushed motor while coasting.

Setting 1: Drag Brake OFF

Vehicle will coast with almost no resistance from the motor at neutral throttle.

Setting 2: Drag Brake 15%

Very Low amount of braking effect from the motor at neutral throttle

Setting 3: Drag brake 25%

Low amount of braking effect from the motor at neutral throttle

Setting 4: Drag Brake 40%

More braking effect from the motor at neutral throttle.

Setting 5: Drag Brake 50%

Fairly high braking effect from the motor at neutral throttle.

Setting 6: Drag Brake 100% (Default)

Full braking effect from the motor at neutral throttle.

3. Brake / Reverse Type

Sets whether reverse is enabled or not, and exactly how it can be accessed.

Setting 1: Reverse Lockout

This setting allows the use of reverse only after the ESC senses two seconds of neutral throttle. Use it for race practice sessions and bashing, but check with your race director to see if this setting is allowed for actual racing.

Setting 2: Forward/Brake Only

Use this setting for actual sanctioned racing events. Reverse cannot be accessed under any circumstances with this setting.

Setting 3: Forward/Brake/Reverse (Default)

Reverse or forward is accessible at any time after the ESC brakes to zero motor RPM.

Axial Car ESC Programming Reference:

1: Voltage Cutoff

Option 1 : None

Option 2 : Auto-LiPo (D)*

2: Drag Brake

Option 1 : Disabled

Option 2 : 15%

Option 3 : 25%

Option 4 : 40%

Option 5 : 50%

Option 6: 100% (D)*

3: Brake/Reverse Type

Option 1 : Reverse Lockout

Option 2 : Forward/Brake Only

Option 3 : Forward/Brake/Reverse (D)*

(D)* = Default setting from the factory

Wraith Steering Upgrades

Here are a few tips for upgrading the steering on your Wraith. The stock Wraith steering components are pretty stout right out of the box. But, upgrading to aluminum components will give you a little extra piece of mind when it comes to sweating breakage while out on the trail. Here’s a quick “how to” for upgrading your Wraith’s steering set-up to aluminum components.

A picture of the new parts needed.

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Where’s the beef? All the components needed removed from their packaging. You will only need 8 of the 10 screws in part’s bag AXA115. Some of the self tapping plastic screws will no longer be needed.

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Start by removing the wheels and tires from the front axle.

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Loosen the M3 set screw in the drive hex, then remove it and the drive pin from the stub axle.

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Next remove the 2 screws holding the steer arm on the knuckle.

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Using a 2mm driver, remove the 2 screws that hold the knuckle on the C-hub.

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Now remove the 2 self-tapping screws that hold the C-hub on the axle housing.

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Slide the new aluminum C-hub into place and attach using the existing hardware.

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Remove the bearings and stub shaft from the old plastic knuckle, and install them into the new aluminum knuckle.

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After installing the steel kingpin sleeves into the knuckle, slide the knuckle into place on the C-hub and tighten it down using the new M3x10mm button head screws. Make sure the knuckles are oriented properly, and are attached to the proper side of the axle housing. And as with the stock knuckles, the double captured arms aren’t used.

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Use two more of the new M3X10 screws to re-attach the steering arm to the knuckle. If you are running the stock wheels, you can add some small spacers under the knuckle steer arm in order to take a little of the stock “toe in” out. If you are running our XR10 beadlock wheels, there isn’t much room for this mod.

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Last thing we need to do for this side in re-install the cross pin and drive hex.

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Now repeat the above steps for the opposite side on the front axle.

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And you’re done, time to go hit the local rock pile!!