WB8 Driveshaft Upgrade

Have you ever done this to your WB8 driveshaft?  Turned your driveshaft into a broken piece of licorice.

This is my high speed Wraith running a Castle Creations 5700Kv on 3S Lipo battery.  This thing used to destroy plastic driveshafts.

I wanted to find an easy inexpensive fix.  The weak link of the WB8 is in the male half of the driveshaft, due to it being hollow for assembly, the shaft can collapse allowing it to then twist and eventually break.  So all we have to do is prevent the shaft from collapsing.  The answer came in Axial threaded aluminum pipe links.  Turns out the outside diameter of the threaded pipe is almost the same as the inside diameter of the driveshaft.  So here are the parts used:

Axial WB8 Driveshaft Set – AX30794

Axial Threaded Aluminum Pipe 6x106mm – Grey AX30516

I built two driveshaft to show you two different ways.  The first way is to fully assemble a female half and fully assemble a male half.

Cut the aluminum threaded pipe to about 45mm and then hammer it into the male half.

Note: Once you hammer the aluminum threaded pipe into the male half of the driveshaft, you will NOT be able to access the screw for the U-joint. Disassembly can only be done but cutting the shaft apart.

Here is the method I prefer.  Assemble two female halves.

Then cut a male half to remove the coupler part of the shaft so it is now a splined insert.

Then cut the threaded aluminum pipe to length and hammer into the plastic piece.

Your final product will be two female shafts connected with a floating splined insert.  

Note: you may have to cut the female halves to the required length for your application.

Here are the completed two options to strengthen your WB8 driveshaft.

Installed on my Wraith

Since doing this modification I have not had a driveshaft fail.  I’ll keep beating this Wraith to see what breaks next so we can continue to improve our products. Thanks for reading.

AX10 Ridgecrest – Stage 1 Upgrades

With the release of the AX10 Ridgecrest, there’s been some chatter about it’s capabilities as a crawler.  Is it staying true to the AX10 name?  Well as part of the Axial design team, I can tell you we worked hard to insure this.  Though out of the box the Ridgecrest may have a bit more speed than a traditional crawler, wider axles and some exterior scale details, following in the tracks of it’s rock racer big brother the Wraith, with a few simple mods, the Ridgecrest can easily be a strong rock crawler.

Here’s the AX10 Ridgecrest as it sits out of the box.

First things first, let’s get the body off and move that battery to the front.  The battery tray is held in place with 4 M3 cap head screws and it’s the same with the electronics tray.

Simply remove all 8 screws and the trays are free.  You’ll have to open the radio box and unplug the steering servo as the servo wire is not quite long enough to reach the radio box when it’s installed in the rear position of the chassis.

At this point you can install the battery tray up front and the electronics in the rear of the chassis.  As for your servo wire you can purchase a servo wire extender for just a few dollars, or I had a junk servo, stole the wire and soldered the wires together to extend mine.

Next, lets get some weight in those wheels.  Using Axial parts I got some interior wheel weight rings, weight inserts, 2.2 beadlock wheels and Ripsaw 2.2 tires in R35 compound.

AX30545 – 2.2 Internal Wheel Weight Ring (2)

AX30546 – 2.2 Internal Wheel Weight Inserts 21g/0.75lbs (2)

AX12015 – 2.2 Ripsaw Tires R35 Compound (2)

AX8061 – Axial 2.2 VWS Beadlock Wheels Set (Black) (2)

I added just three weights to each ring for the front wheels.  Using all 6 weights would have made the wheels too heavy.  We need just enough weight for good traction and stability.

Each front wheel ended up weighing 13.05oz, as compared to a stock wheel weighing only 5.57oz.

Next it was time to work on the shocks and lower the center of gravity.  A simple trick on AR60 OCP axles is to flip the link/shock mount to lower the chassis. Some additional tech.

Utilizing the stock shocks, I disassembled and added aluminum bodies, aluminum caps, Delrin machined pistons and super soft springs.  When reassembling I used 30wt shock oil.

AX30111 – Aluminum Shock Caps (2)

AX30120 – Aluminum Shock Body 12×47.5mm (2)

AX30438 – 10mm Machined Piston – 1.2 (1)

AX30223 – Spring 14x70mm 1.04lbs/in – Black (2)

When installing the shocks, I used the upper mounting hole that lays the shocks back more, inward towards the center of the chassis.

Back together with just a few hours of work and here’s the modified chassis layout.

And here’s the fruits of our labor.  The Ridgecrest looks mean.  Time to take it out for some quick testing to see the dramatic improvement in crawling capability.

The front is planted.  Traction and grab of the front tires is greatly improved and I can get the front way up, with less chance of roll over.  Articulation is great and the suspension articulates smoothly with the new shock parts.  This is only Stage 1.  Next time we’ll add aluminum links, create some more tire clearance and really get this thing crawling.