AX90046 SCX10 II Jeep Cherokee Kit Build Series – Part 9

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Now it’s finally time to personalize your Cherokee; it’s time to paint it! Painting is a scarey process to some, but after reading this blog, you should be comfortable painting body shells for the rest of your RC future. Let’s just get right into it.

STEP 1
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First thing first, we need to wash the body. Use a mild dish detergent, warm water and a paper towel to wash the inside of the body. You want to get rid of any oils that may have gotten on the body during the molding process. You also want to get out any finger prints, dirt or dust the may have come in contact with the body too.

STEP 2
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Once the body is washed, use a lint free paper towel to dry it completely.

STEP 3
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Time to apply the supplied window mask. We like to “weed” off the excess mask just leaving the windows on the backing. Then cut out each window.

STEP 4
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Pull the mask off the backing, shift it and apply it back on the glossy paper backing. This will allow you to handle and position the mask on the window area for a perfect application without getting your fingerprints all over the mask. Your fingers could have oils that get on the mask adhesive making less sticky and paint could possibly bleed under the mask.

STEP 5
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Once the mask is applied, use the back of your finger nail to press on the edges. This will seal the mask adhesive to the body.

STEP 6
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Here is the body with the window masks applied. If you look close, you can see how the edges of the mask are well applied and there are no air bubbles that could lead to paint bleeds.

STEP 7
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Let’s paint! But wait. Make certain you shake the can well to mix the paint. It’s also a good idea to warm up the can first in a bowl of warm water which will make the paint spray in a finer mist. Now, when you are ready to paint. You’ll want the can to be 10-12 inches from the body. Start spraying outside the body and then cross the body. Stop spraying when the can is past the body. If you start and end inside the body, this can lead to drips or blobs of paint.

TIP
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Here is an example on where to start your spray and where to release or stop the spray. Your next pass should slightly overlap your last pass as you move up or down the body.

STEP 8
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You’ll want to spray in light coats. Heavy coats will mean runs. Here is two coats of paint with 20 minutes of dry time between.

STEP 9
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We’ve skipped ahead. Here are four coats applied to the body. To see if you’ve painted enough, hold the body up to a light. If you can see thin areas, concnetrate your next paint pass in that area.

STEP 10
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To give our body more of a scale look we want to paint the interior black. But black on white can bleed through a bit. To prevent that, we’re applying a few coats of silver. This will keep the white, white and prevent the black from altering the tint of the white.

STEP 11
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Now we can apply a few coats of black. When you look into the windows when it’s done, you won’t see a white interior.

STEP 12
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Want black fender flares? Here’s the trick. Using a hobby knife, very gently cut the overspray film on the outside of the body around the flares. Pull off the film on the flares.

STEP 13
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Again using the multiple coat method, spray the fender flares.

STEP 14
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Let’s start cutting out the body after it has had plenty of time to dry. Using a reamer, make four holes in the corners of the grille area. This will make nice round corners for the grille insert to fit into later.

STEP 15
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Next take your hobby knife and cut into the grille body lines connecting the tops of the circles at the ends. Then take lexan scissors and cut a big X connecting the circles on the inside. We’re going to snap out the excess grille area lexan.

STEP 16
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Here is a piece snapped out of the grille cutout. Snap out all four pieces.

STEP 17
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After the grille area is snapped out, proceed to cut off the rest of the excess body lexan using lexan scissors on the mold lines. You can also use the hobby knife method to score the body and snap off the lexan.

STEP 18
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With the body cut out, now you can remove the overspray film and masks. How good does that look?!

STEP 19
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Oh it’s getting good! Break out that sheet of decals and apply them to the body. You can use the shifted backing method mentioned above to position your decals before applying them.

STEP 20
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With the decals applied, you can now drill the holes for all of the body accessories. Follow the manual carefully on what size holes to drill where. You’ll see small dimples in the body which indicate where the holes need to be drilled.

STEP 21
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Install those accessories! Take special note of how the roof rack goes on and the door handles when looking at the manual.

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FINISHED
Your AX90046 SCX10 II Jeep Cherokee Kit is complete! Slap that body on the rig, install the body clips and head outside for some adventures! Remember to grab some photos along the way on the trail and share them to the Axial Racing social media pages. Use the hashtag #Axial #AxialRacing or #AxialAdventures so we can check out your work!
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AX90046 SCX10 II Jeep Cherokee Kit Build Series – Part 8

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We’re getting very close to finishing the AX90046  build series and by the end of this particular blog, you should be able to drive your truck if you’ve been following this series as you build. Here some of the final electronic and detail peices will be added to the rig. Time to work.

Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 1

STEP 1

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Let’s get the electronics mounted to the chassis. In the kit you find servo tape to help install your purchased electronics. Before applying the tape, make certain the surfaces are free and clean of dirt and oil. Use motor spray or rubbing alcohol and a paper towel to clean the surfaces. Cut pieces of tape to install the ESC. Make sure you have enough tape left over for the switch and the receiver.

STEP 2

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Stick you ESC to the side plates. The manual instructs you to place the ESC behind the radio box. We’ve decided to switch it up and place it on the right side plate since we won’t be using the 2-speed conversion in this kit. Stick the receiver into the radio box too.

STEP 3

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Next route the wires through the rubber radio box end seal. Place the wires in the seal and then slip it into the box. Apply a little grease here if the seal doesn’t slide in. Next place the lid seal into the radio box lid and screw it to the top of the box.

STEP 4

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Next, a little modeling work. The light lenses need to be placed into the bumpers. Its a good idea to place a small dab of clear modeling cement on the lens pins to help keep them secure in the bumper.

STEP 5

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Using the screw pins, secure the bumpers to the mount. Here you can also slip the trailer hitch in and secure it. If you think you’re going to tackle some serious approach angles, you might want to leave the trailer hitch off.

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STEP 6

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The body posts are placed into the shock towers next and secured with screw pins. Take note of what holes the screw pins go in so your body sits properly on the chassis.

STEP 7

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The sliders get bolted to the side plates next. Note these are adjustable by sliding them in and out depending on what body you have.

STEP 8

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Now the tricky part. Glueing up tires! You need to spend the time and do this step properly so your tires don’t come off on the trail. Make sure to use a good CA glue too. We suggest Dynamite Thin CA. Take a look at this blog if you need help with the glueing process HERE

STEP 9

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After the tires are glued and dry, install your hexes to the axles. It’s a good idea to add a little bit of threadlock to the hex retaining set-screw. Bolt the wheels on with the supplied lock nuts followed by the covers.

FINISHED

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We didn’t wire up our demo truck, but at this point wire up your speed controller if necessary and give your new rig a test run… you know, because you have to play ASAP! Body painting and finishing is up next. See you in the next blog.

 

AX90046 SCX10 II Jeep Cherokee Kit Build Series – Part 2

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Building your AX90046  kit is going to be a great and rewarding experience. You’ll see how each and every piece fits together and you control the build how you want it to be assembled. We’re starting the build at the beginning of the manual of course. This also means we’ll be starting with bag A and will eventually need to dip into some other bags of supporting parts.

TOOLS NEEDED
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Cutters
1.5 and 2.0mm Hex Drivers

STEP 1

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Open Bag A and organize your parts so you can see everything you’re working with.

STEP 2

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Start by assembling the spool and ring gear. The gear is held onto the spool with three M2x8mm screws. Use a small drop of the included thread locking compound on each screw before installing it. Tighten the screws well so they do not back off. Then slip the 7x14x3.5mm bearing onto each end of the spool. Make two of these.

STEP 3

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You now need to search for additional parts outside of Bag A. Look for Plastic Bag 1. This will have the axle parts you need for the next several steps.

STEP 4

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Push the appropriate bearings into the plastic axle housing that support the bevel pinion gear followed by the gear itself. Take the supplied grease, puncture the end and liberally coat the ring gear on the spool with grease. More is better here, but make sure you have enough to coat the axle gears and the transmission gears later in this build.

STEP 5

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Slip the spool assembly into the axle housing. It will only fit in one way. Cap the axle with the cover and the four M2.6x18mm screws. Use a quality 2mm hex driver to tighten the screws to a firm feel.

STEP 6

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Next find the rest of the plastic axle components. When it time to cut them from the parts trees, use a good quality sprue cutter.

STEP 7

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Cut the steering knuckle from the tree and insert the appropriate bearings into the knuckle to support the front universal shafts.

STEP 8

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Push the universal driveshafts into the bearings.

STEP 9

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Turn your attention back to the axles. It’s time to install the C-carriers. Slip the bearing into the axle followed by the carrier and secure it with the screw. Take extra time here and follow the manual. These carriers are installed in a certain way that is well diagrammed in the manual. Failure to install them correctly will result in some funky geometry that will not work well on the trail.

STEP 10

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Slip the assembled driveshafts with carriers into the axle housing. You’ll then use the shoulder screws to secure the knuckles to the C-carriers. Take note of the direction of the parts here too. When screwing in the shoulder screws, make sure they are a bit past snug. Don’t over-tigthen the shoulder screws or you chance stripping out the C-carrier.

STEP 11

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Gather up the parts to complete the rear axle assembly.

STEP 12

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Slip the half-shaft into the axle housing making sure the flat end keys into the spool. Then place a bearing at the end of the shaft.

STEP 13

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Slide the axle extension tube over the half-shaft and secure the part in place with the pinch screw.

STEP 14

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We’re getting close to wrapping up the axle assembly. Locate the link mounts and secure them using M2.6x1mm screws. Tighten these screws firm, they support the suspension links. Install two link mounts on each axle case.

FINISHED

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Here are the assembled front and rear axles. This build blog would also be helpful if you were building the AX31438 AR44 Locked Axle Set for a custom project. Take your time and build the axles right for smooth bind free operation.