Axial LCX Transmission Parts List

 

lcx-transmission-break-down

Found in: SCX10 II CRC Edition 2017 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited

Stock Gearing
LCX: 32P 13T Pinion / 56T Spur Gear

Axial LCX Tranmission Parts List

Gearing Chart

32 Pitch (Stock Gearing AX30392 or AX30395)

_
Spur Gear

Pinion
56
60
64
68
11
38.69
41.45
44.22
46.98
12
35.47
38.00
40.53
43.07
13
32.74
35.08
37.42
39.75
14
30.40
32.57
34.74
36.91
15
28.37
30.40
32.43
34.45
16
26.60
28.50
30.40
32.30
17
25.04
26.82
28.61
30.40

32 Pitch (Overdrive Gearing AX30401)

_
Spur Gear

Pinion
56
60
64
68
11
34.04
36.47
38.90
41.33
12
31.20
33.43
35.66
37.89
13
28.80
30.86
32.91
34.97
14
26.74
28.65
30.56
32.47
15
24.96
26.74
28.53
30.31
16
23.40
25.07
26.74
28.41
17
22.02
23.60
25.17
26.74

32 Pitch (Underdrive Gearing AX30402)

_
Spur Gear

Pinion
56
60
64
68
11
43.78
46.91
50.04
53.16
12
40.13
43.00
45.87
48.73
13
37.05
39.69
42.34
44.98
14
34.40
36.86
39.31
41.77
15
32.11
34.40
36.69
38.99
16
30.10
32.25
34.40
36.55
17
28.33
30.35
32.38
34.40

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AXIAL LCX TRANSMISSION PARTS LIST

AXA0023 M2.6x8mm Cap Head Screw
AXA013 M2x6mm Cap Head Screw
AXA1045 M4 Nylon Locking Flanged Nuts
AXA1218 Bearing 5x10x4mm
AXA1225 Bearing 8x16x5mm
AX30162 Straight Pin
AX30394 20T Drive Gear
AX30413 Slipper Spring
AX30435 Steel Outdrive Shaft Set
AX30190 Shaft
AXA146 M3x12mm Socket Head Screw
AX31026 Slipper Plate
AX31027 Spur Gear 32P 56T
AX31068 Slipper Pad
AX31531 LCX Transmission Case
AX31539 LCX Top Shaft (Coming Soon)
AX31585 Gear Set (48P 28T/ 48P 52T)

Axial Yeti / RR10 Transmission Parts List

Axial Yeti / RR10 Bomber Tranmission Break Down

Found in: YETI SCORE TROPHY TRUCK / YETI / RR10 BOMBER

Stock Gearing
Yeti: 32P 16T Pinion / 64T Spur Gear
Yeti SCORE Trophy Truck: 32P 16T Pinion / 64T Spur Gear
RR10 Bomber: 32P 12T Pinion / 64T Spur Gear

Axial Transmission Guide - RR10 BomberTransmission

Gearing Chart

32 Pitch (Stock Gearing AX30392 or AX30395)

_
Spur Gear

Pinion
56
60
64
68
11
28.85
30.91
32.97
35.03
12
26.44
28.33
30.22
32.11
13
24.41
26.15
27.90
29.64
14
22.67
24.28
25.90
27.52
15
21.15
22.67
24.18
25.69
16
19.83
21.25
22.67
24.08
17
18.67
20.00
21.33
22.67

32 Pitch (Overdrive Gearing AX30401)

_
Spur Gear

Pinion
56
60
64
68
11
25.38
27.19
29.00
30.81
12
23.26
24.92
26.58
28.25
13
21.47
23.01
24.54
26.07
14
19.94
21.36
22.79
24.21
15
18.61
19.94
21.27
22.60
16
17.45
18.69
19.94
21.18
17
16.42
17.59
18.77
19.94

32 Pitch (Underdrive Gearing AX30402)

_
Spur Gear

Pinion
56
60
64
68
11
25.38
34.97
37.31
39.64
12
29.92
32.06
34.20
36.33
13
27.62
29.59
31.57
33.54
14
25.65
27.48
29.31
31.14
15
23.94
25.65
27.36
29.07
16
22.44
24.04
25.65
27.25
17
21.12
22.63
24.14
25.65

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AXIAL YETI SCORE TROPHY TRUCK / YETI / RR10 BOMBER

AXA0413 M2.6x8mm Hex Screws
AXA1045 M4 Nylon Locking Hex Nuts
AXA1221 Bearing 5x11x4mm
AXA1391 E4 E-clips
AXA144 M3x8mm Flat Head Screws
AXA0147 M3x16mm Flat Head Screws
AXA148 M3x18mm Flat Head Screws
AXA150 M3x25mm Flat Head Screws
AX30163 Pin 2.0x10mm
AX30413 Slipper Spring
AX31059 Slipper Plate Washer
AX31065 Spur Gear 23P 64T
AX31067 Slipper Plate
AX31068 Slipper Pads
AX31106 2-Speed Hi/Lo Transmission Motor Mount
AX31107 2-Speed Hi/Lo Transmission Spur Gear Cover
AX31108 2-Speed Hi/Lo Transmission Case
AX31127 2-Speed Hi/Lo Transmission Top Shaft
AX31129 2-Speed Hi/Lo Transmission Bottom Shaft
AX31130 High Speed Transmission Gear Set
AX31131 T-Case Gear Set
AX31180 Aluminum Spur Gear Spacer
AX31313 Transfer Case Output Shaft
AX31324 RR10 Transfer Case

Axial AX10™ Transmission Parts List

Axial AX10 Tranmission Break Down

A quick reference parts list for the Axial AX10™ Transmission.

Found in: AX10 / SCX10 / SCX10 II RTR / WRAITH / SMT10 3 GEAR TRANS

Stock Gearing
SCX10: 32P 13T Pinion / 56T Spur Gear
SCX10 II RTR: 32P 13T Pinion / 56T Spur Gear
Wraith: 32P 12T Pinion / 56T Spur Gear
SMT10: 32P 16T Pinion / 56T Spur Gear

Axial Transmission Guide - AX10 Transmission

Gearing Chart

32 Pitch (Stock Gearing AX30392 or AX30395)

_
Spur Gear

Pinion
56
60
64
68
11
38.69
41.45
44.22
46.98
12
35.47
38.00
40.53
43.07
13
32.74
35.08
37.42
39.75
14
30.40
32.57
34.74
36.91
15
28.37
30.40
32.43
34.45
16
26.60
28.50
30.40
32.30
17
25.04
26.82
28.61
30.40

32 Pitch (Overdrive Gearing AX30401)

_
Spur Gear

Pinion
56
60
64
68
11
34.04
36.47
38.90
41.33
12
31.20
33.43
35.66
37.89
13
28.80
30.86
32.91
34.97
14
26.74
28.65
30.56
32.47
15
24.96
26.74
28.53
30.31
16
23.40
25.07
26.74
28.41
17
22.02
23.60
25.17
26.74

32 Pitch (Underdrive Gearing AX30402)

_
Spur Gear

Pinion
56
60
64
68
11
43.78
46.91
50.04
53.16
12
40.13
43.00
45.87
48.73
13
37.05
39.69
42.34
44.98
14
34.40
36.86
39.31
41.77
15
32.11
34.40
36.69
38.99
16
30.10
32.25
34.40
36.55
17
28.33
30.35
32.38
34.40

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AXIAL AX10™ TRANSMISSION PARTS LIST

AX30487 Complete AX10 Transmission
AXA013 M2x6mm SH Screws
AXA089 M3x25mm SC Screws
AXA1045 M4 Nylon Lock Nuts
AXA1053 M3 Nylon Locking Hex Nuts
AXA1218 Bearing, 5x10x4mm (2 pkgs)
AXA1225 Bearing, 8x16x5mm
AX30162 Cross Pin
AX30190 Shaft 5x18mm
AX30394 20T Drive Gear
AX30413 Slipper Spring
AX30435 Steel Outdrive Set
AX30491 AX10 RTR Motor Plate
AX31026 Slipper Plate Washer
AX31027 Spur Gear 32P 56T
AX31068 Slipper Pad
AX31149 Slipper Drive Gear Shaft
AX80009 Transmission Set
AX80010 Gear Set
AX80078 Transmission Spur Gear Cover

Axial SCX10 II Transmission Parts List

Axial SCX10 II Tranmission Break Down

A quick reference parts list for the Axial SCX10 II Transmission.

Found in: SCX10 II Kit

Stock Gearing
SCX10 II: 32P 15T Pinion / 56T Spur Gear

Axial Transmission Guide - SCX10 II Transmission

Gearing Chart

32 Pitch (Stock Gearing AX31405)

_
Spur Gear

Pinion
56
60
64
68
11
66.18
N/A
N/A
N/A
12
60.67
N/A
N/A
N/A
13
56.00
N/A
N/A
N/A
14
52.00
N/A
N/A
N/A
15
48.53
N/A
N/A
N/A
16
45.50
N/A
N/A
N/A
17
42.82
N/A
N/A
N/A

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AXIAL SCX10 II TRANSMISSION PARTS LIST

AXA436 M3x12mm BH Hex Screw
AXA1218 Bearing, 5x10x4mm (2 pkgs)
AXA1221 Bearing, 5x11x4mm
AXA1225 Bearing, 8x16x5mm
AXA1243 Bearing, 15x21x4mm
AX30394 20T Drive Gear
AX30413 Slipper Spring
AX30435 Steel Outdrive Set
AX30491 AX10 RTR Motor Plate
AX31026 Slipper Plate Washer
AX31027 Spur Gear 32P 56T
AX31068 Slipper Pad
AX31149 Slipper Drive Gear Shaft
AX80010 Gear Set
AX80051 Dig Transmission Case
AX80078 Transmission Spur Gear Cover
AX80079 Wraith Tube Frame Skid Plate/ Battery Tray

Casey Curries AXIALFEST2017 Altra Ultra-Class Axial RR10 Bomber

Casey Curries Altra Ultra-Class Axial RR10 Bomber - AXIALFEST2017

At #AXIALFEST2016, the Altra Ultra Challenge was one of the most talked-about races at the event. Big time rock junkies came out to race 8 laps around the zig-zaggy campground course – the final mileage total was a whopping 5K! It built quite a bit of interest, so much so that Casey Currie decided to build up another rig for this year’s event!

Casey competed last year and placed 3rd overall, a pretty fantastic feat considering the competition! He did say that it was a bit more strenuous than he expected, but had a fantastic time and would be back.

Here’s a few pix of his horse and a parts list at the bottom. If you’re at AXIALFEST and have a chance, stop by the Axial booth and check out this wicked ride!

Good luck Casey!

Casey Currie's Altra Ultra-Class Axial RR10 Bomber - AXIALFEST2017

Casey Currie's Altra Ultra-Class Axial RR10 Bomber - AXIALFEST2017

Casey Currie's Altra Ultra-Class Axial RR10 Bomber - AXIALFEST2017

Casey Currie's Altra Ultra-Class Axial RR10 Bomber - AXIALFEST2017

Casey Currie's Altra Ultra-Class Axial RR10 Bomber - AXIALFEST2017

Casey Currie's Altra Ultra-Class Axial RR10 Bomber - AXIALFEST2017

Casey Currie's Altra Ultra-Class Axial RR10 Bomber - AXIALFEST2017

Casey Currie's Altra Ultra-Class Axial RR10 Bomber - AXIALFEST2017


Axial Racing

AX90053 RR10 Bomber Kit
AX31433 Axial AR60 Machined Link Mounts
AX31161 Axial Steel Spur Gear 32P 64T
AX30395 Axial Heavy Duty Bevel Gear Set 13/38T
AX31430 Axial King Shock Caps and Collars

Futaba

Futaba S9156 Servo

Vanquish Products Parts

VPS03240 Vanquish Products Wraith Differential Cover
VPS07991 Vanquish Products Yeti/RR10 Motor Mount
VPS07990 Vanquish Products Yeti/RR10 Motor Cam
VPS07970 Vanquish Products AR60 Axle Servo Mount
VPS02410 Vanquish Products Clamping 25T Servo Horn
VPS02004 Vanquish Products Wraith/XR10 C-Hubs
IRC00060 Vanquish Products Incision RR10 Bomber 1/4 Stainless Steel Link Kit
VPS07350 Vanquish Products Yeti Trailing Arms
VPS03200 Vanquish Products Wraith Steering Knuckles
VPS07670 Vanquish Products Wraith/Yeti Clamping Lockouts
VPS06762 Vanquish Products Rigid Industries 1″ LED Light Bar
VPS08030 Vanquish Products KMC 2.2 XD127 Bully Wheels
VPS08300 Vanquish Products Currie Antirock Yeti Sway Bar V2

Tekin Racing

Tekin RX4 Waterproof Hard Box Bluetooth 3.0
Tekin ROC412 Element-Proof HD 2300kV Brushless Motor

Custom Built Axial SCX10 6X6 by John Keifer Jr.

tech_Axial_Custom_6x6_tow_truck_500px
Custom Built Axial 6X6 by John Keifer Jr.
words & photos: Rodney Wills

Axial 6X6 by John Keifer-49
I previously posted the above image with this statement on my Facebook page:
I’ve never ran a 20-gallon 2S tank in a event before. I’m actually not much of a TTC/event guy, I’m more of a 50-gallon 3S adventure type. Plus, this is a new rig too, so I’m not use to all the functional details and I’ve yet to install my old 4-bar Team FastEddy fuel-gauge. Anyhow, I went exploring the back forty of the Team KNK R/C Farm and ran out of electro-juice. Had to call a 6X6 wrecker service! Luckily John Keifer Jr. of Dad’s Trucking had his CB on during the event. He was at the same event, so the dispatch office called him and came to my rescue from Poison Oak forest. I was super impressed with his rig so look for a vehicle feature on the Axial blog soon’ish!

I couldn’t get this rig out of my head, so check out the following photos I took during that trip and a few details about John Keifer Jr. and his awesome looking – meticulously detailed – custom built Axial SCX10 6X6!

And check the little video we shot as well.

JOHN KEIFER Jr.
John got his first hobby grade R/C roughly around 1985. It was a Tamiya Falcon buggy. From there, Keifer Jr. has owned all makes, models and forms of cars and trucks. And John has spent his fair share of time racing off-road outdoors and indoor carpet racing. But like many, John took a little break from R/C when his family expanded with siblings added.  As both kids got old enough to enjoy the hobby, John got got back into it along with getting his kids into the hobby as well!

The scale crawler scene is what really drew him back in and when the time came, the family purchased a couple Axial SCX10 Deadbolts and it all escalated from there! Then a Cassie Curry SCX10 was added and his son recently purchased an SCX10-2 KIT at the KNK TTC4. He assembled it himself and has it running.

THE RIG:
Axial 6X6 by John Keifer-4
John, like most grown adult men, love big trucks and work semi’s. But he wanted to build a flatbed hauler to haul their scale trail trucks around at events. For John, The SCX10 platform was an easy choice for a “budget” winter build to allow time for buying and trading of parts to acquire all the items needed.

Axial 6X6 by John Keifer-8

 

Axial 6X6 by John Keifer-10

dads_trucking_500px
I asked John about the Dad’s Trucking company decal on the door and asked him, what’s the story on that? John knows a graphic designer who makes all of his scale decals and license plates. He did his research on trucking company door decals for reference as he wanting something that looked like an old school trucking company. It was John’s idea for Dad’s Trucking as he stated, “I seem to be the one building and maintaining all of our family’s rigs!” The 419 in the number is his local area code to keep it realistic. Once he had it sorted what he wanted, his graphic artist worked out the details and went with it.

Axial 6X6 by John Keifer-35

 

Axial 6X6 by John Keifer-30
Axial 6X6 by John Keifer-29  
Axial 6X6 by John Keifer-32Axial 6X6 by John Keifer-33
When asked, what was the most difficult part of building his 6X6, John stated the most difficult part was getting the links and suspension to function properly and somewhat scale. It is not competition crawler but it can hold its own on a trail course. And tow one home too!

Axial 6X6 by John Keifer-19 Axial 6X6 by John Keifer-22

Axial 6X6 by John Keifer-21     Axial 6X6 by John Keifer-16  Axial 6X6 by John Keifer-14  Axial 6X6 by John Keifer-11  Axial 6X6 by John Keifer-3

Axial 6X6 by John Keifer-15

Axial 6X6 by John Keifer-2
Axial 6X6 by John Keifer-36

Axial 6X6 by John Keifer-37

 

Axial 6X6 by John Keifer-43Axial 6X6 by John Keifer-45 Axial 6X6 by John Keifer-44

• MOTOR: Dynamite 35 turn crawler motor. It’s what he had it laying around.

• ESC: Tekin FXR is handling the motor control.
It has a Castle CC BEC set at 7.2volts.

• SERVO: Hitech HS-646WP servo handles the steering.

• Holmes winch controller powers the Warn 9.5 TI winch on the flatbed.

• Front Axle: Stock Axial with Vanquish Products Aluminum C-Hubs and 8 degree steering arms.

• Middle Axle: Stock Axial (albeit using two axles to produce the through axle) is running Vanquish Products aluminum lockouts.

• Rear Axle: Stock Axial with HR aluminum lockouts.

• Tires: Stock Axial SCX10-2 1.9 BFGOODRICH ALL-TERRAIN T/A® KO2 TIRES – R35

• Wheels: Stock Axial SCX10-2 1.9 Method Mesh

• Front and rear LED running lights and head & taillights. Jonathan Baskins built  [2] two-way light controllers to turn lights on/off from a hacked Flysky GT3B with Flysky 6-channel RX.
Juiced by a 1000mah 3S lipo.

• ESS ONE+ sound unit . Diesel engine sound and third Channel horn from the TX.

• Rig is powered with a 7000mah 3S lipo.

 

1.9 Axial Wraith

tech_1.9_wraith_500px
1.9 Axial Wraith Custom Build
by: Rivas Concepts

We know a lot of you own an Axial Wraith or have come across them at some point. Like any other R/C, we are sure there are things you would like to change, and maybe you already have! I personally like to keep it scale and in proportion as best possible. The Axial Wraith is a beast and just eats up terrain! But how to make it more scale and add a little challenge to the driving experience? I am doing a 1.9 version. This will consist of swapping in some Axial SCX10 Axles, cut down Axial WB8 drive shafts,  SCX10 shocks, and some custom links.

20161026_100209 (Custom)

Your Axial Wraith may look like this, or did at some point and time. Axial AR60 Axles, 2.2 wheels, tires and big bore shocks.

20161026_100138 (Custom)

20161026_100233 (Custom)

One cool thing about the Wraith is you can put all kinds of bodies on it and change the look. I am using the Axial Deadbolt (AX04039) as it fits perfectly, but I am cutting out the interior. With the 2.2 set up, the wheelbase is off a little too much for this build. Longer wheelbase helps with climbing and performance without a doubt. So I am sacrificing the 2.2 performance for the scale look with the 1.9 swap.

20161026_100320 (Custom)

20161026_095900 (Custom)

Here is the standard 13 1/2″ wheel base on the Axial Wraith Kit version (AX90056), I am sure it’s the same on RTR (AX90018).

20161026_095917 (Custom)

20161026_100029 (Custom)

This is a pretty simple and quick change over in my opinion. You should have 4-links and 2-shocks per axle. Don’t forget to undo your servo!

20161026_093947 (Custom)

Starting with the lower links seems to be easily accessible, so I am just starting with these.

20161026_093829 (Custom)

Next you can move on to the upper links, because I am switching to Scx10 shocks I just removed shocks from cage. Now the Axial AR60 axles are complete with shocks and now ready for your WRONCHO build or something else. You can re-use the bigger shocks, but because I am after a scale look, I am choosing not too.

20161026_093711 (Custom) 20161026_090836 (Custom)

You should end up with something like this. If you are going to buy a cage, this is all you would really need. The donor parts will be Axial SCX10 axles and shocks.

20161026_090827 (Custom) 20161026_093648 (Custom)

Here you can see difference between the AR60 axles and SCX10 axles (technically the SCX10 axles are AX10 axles as that is their origin). If you really wanted too, you could even use the Axial AR44 axles for even more scale looks. The only part of this project that is not quick is the custom links. You can use All-Thread from your local DIY store. Cut them to appropriate lengths and thread them right into the rod ends, I use a Dremel and cut off wheel for this.There is 1/4″ or 1/8″ option.  Plastic drain hose from the landscaping department will slide over the all thread giving it a finished look.There are many ways to make links, Delrin is a popular choices as well.

20160922_101301 (Custom)

20170216_123718_LI (Custom)

There are a few ways to do this swap. If you don’t want really short links up front you can slide the skid plate towards the back one screw hole, this will lengthen the fronts and shorten the rears. Rough diagram pictured below, RED lines show sliding the skid plate back, YELLOW lines are showing you the front links will need to be longer and rears will need to be shorter.

20160922_101238_LI (Custom)

20161026_084456 (Custom)

I know EVERYONE is wanting to know measurements. So the front lowers are 55.88 millimeters or 2.2 inches. Keep in mind this is not an eye to eye measurement, this is just for the link portion you will have to make. The eye to eye measurement is 3.36 inches or 85.5 millimeters.

20161026_084425 (Custom)

20161026_084553 (Custom)

The rear lowers are 66.36 millimeters or 2.6 inches. Again this is just length of link you need to make, not an eye to eye measurement. The eye to eye measurement is 4.05 inches or 103.6 millimeters. Be sure to use a bent rod end so it moves freely.

20161026_084528 (Custom)

20161026_102039 (Custom)

The upper rear link is 85.14 millimeters eye to eye or 3.35 inches. The type of rod end you choose to use will have some affect on this length.

20161026_101944 (Custom)

20161026_102652 (Custom)

The front upper link is 82.31 millimeters eye to eye or 3.24 inches. Again the type of rod end you choose to use will affect this length.

20161026_102704 (Custom)

Once you have upper and lower links installed you can mount up your shocks, it should now be close to an operating 1.9 Wraith.

20160922_100852 (Custom) 20160922_101000 (Custom) 20160922_101156 (Custom)

20161026_111926 (Custom)

Close, meaning it still needs drivelines, I am a fan of just cutting down the Axial WB8 driveshaft’s (AX30794) because the are very easy to work with and reliable. If your running big power there is no doubt your blowing through moving parts, these are plastic so take this into consideration in your build. The driveline centers are cut down to 39 millimeters or 1.5 inches. They need to telescope for suspension movement, but not fall out. Depending on shocks you will need to experiment with this. I use a Dremel and cut off wheel, shaving millimeters at a time.

20161026_111941 (Custom) 20161026_111505 (Custom) 20161026_093836 (Custom)

You will need to cut the female ends on both sides of drivelines as well. The front pictured above is extremely short but it fits and doesn’t fall out. The rear pictured below is longer. If you want more to work with on the front, you can cheat and slide the skid back one hole as I showed earlier.

20161026_094445 (Custom) 20160922_101348 (Custom)

Front and rear drivelines installed and ready to test, don’t forget to plug your servo in. This build is with servo on axle, you can get creative and do a CMS (Chassis mounted servo) if you are up to it.

20160922_101344 (Custom) 20160922_101105 (Custom)

Axial SCX10 axles now under a Wraith cage with SCX10 shocks.

20161026_084737 (Custom) 20161026_085619 (Custom)

When this project started it was AR60 axles and a wheelbase of 13.5 inches.
Now with custom links and SCX10 axles, it is now sitting at 11.75 inches.

20161026_085627 (Custom)

20160922_112421 (Custom) 20160922_112510 (Custom) 20160922_112436 (Custom) 20160922_112342 (Custom)

At this point you can mount your body and start all the scale building.

20170201_183933 (Custom)

At the beginning I mentioned I cut the interior out of a an Axial Deadbolt body (AX04039), I am now going to use the rear section as part of the build.

20170201_184357 (Custom)

A little fuel tube and a body reamer is all I am using here. Make sure the fuel tube fits in snug, you can use shoe goo or some adhesive of your choosing as insurance to make sure it stays in place.

20170201_184522 (Custom) 20170130_144213 (Custom)

Axial tree AX80085B Part #3 clamped on the cage and Axial Trans cover tree AX80078 Part #3 makes a cool fuel door.

20170130_144253 (Custom)

You can add a spare tire, light bar or anything you can dream up at this point.

20170130_144053 (Custom)

Hopefully this blog has shown you how to create something new to you, or perhaps inspiration for something you wanted to do by mixing and matching Axial parts, cars, and kits to achieve that one-off custom built look. SAVE ALL YOUR PARTS AND EVERYTHING THAT COMES IN THE BOX! You never know what you can do until you try, so keep building and coming up with new ways to use parts.

 

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build

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Words and photos by Tony Phalen

I’ve been looking forward to getting one of Axial Racing’s SMT10 Monster Trucks, so when the MAX-D landed on my doorstep (thanks UPS guy), it was literally a matter of seconds before the box was open and the truck was out. I was even more stoked, however, when I found a big ol’ box of Axial’s aftermarket goodies included so I could do an upgrade article.

Below is a step-by-step guide, walking you through the disassembly and re-assembly of the SMT10 with all of these parts.

STEP 1

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build Here’s a overview shot of all the parts I’ll be installing on the MAX-D. A list is included at the end of the article complete with part numbers and links.

STEP 2

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
I’ll be splitting the build up into three sections; front, rear and mid. Here’s a pic of the parts I’ll be using for the front end rebuild; steering parts, upper and lower link plates, link mounts, shock parts, gears and the diff cover.

STEP 3

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Since the SMT10 is modular in design, I need to remove anything that will keep the front from coming off easily – that being the front tires and servo. Once the servo has been disconnected, you can let it dangle down and under the center transmission.

STEP 4

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
To remove the front ‘clip’, simply unscrew at the three attachment points designated by the red arrows. Do this on both sides and the front end will drop right off. Pay close attention to the WB8 center driveshaft coupler; it fits between the front and center driveshaft sections and, once the front clip is removed, this piece can fall out.

STEP 5

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Attach the AX31244 Axial Upper Link Plate Set and AX31245 Axial Lower Link Plate Set. Because of the design, I didn’t need to remove anything other than the shocks; that’s fine because I need to work on those at a later time anyway.

STEP 6

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
The AX31432 Axial AR60 Machined Servo Plate and Mount Set is up next for install, but before you do that, assemble it and attach the servo to it. This ensures the two side upright pieces line up with the servo. I would also suggest using a dab of blue threadlocker on the two screws going up and into the aluminum side uprights. Once everything is aligned, remove the servo.

STEP 7

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Remove the stock plastic servo mount and replace with the aluminum assembly from STEP 6.

STEP 8

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Remove the lower links and replace the plastic link mounts with the AX31433 Axial AR60 Machined Link Mounts. Re-attach the lower links.

STEP 9

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Before moving on, I suggest paying close attention to the orientation of the steering blocks in relation to the lower link mounts. The upgrade C-hubs I’ll be using have more adjustability than the stock plastic ones, so if you just throw them on and clock the C-hub like the original (red arrow), your caster will be WAY off. So, my suggestion is not to assemble to match the C-hub (red arrow), but to assemble to match the top kingpin screw (orange line).

STEP 10

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
But first, remove the steering system. Four screws will do it.

STEP 11

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
I’m also going to replace the diff gears while I’m at this point. Remove the four screws holding on the diff cover and the four screws holding the diff in place. You’ll need to pull the axles out a bit to disengage them from the diff.

STEP 12

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Remove the four screws to release the stock diff gear and replace with the AX30395 Axial Heavy Duty Diff Gear. Make sure the gasket is in place and not still attached to the original diff gear. A keen eye will notice the planetary diff design instead of a locked unit. This type of differential is actually a better fit for Monster Trucks.

STEP 13

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
You’ll need to replace the stock input gear as well; that can be done on the opposite side of the axle. Replace with the AX30395 Axial Heavy Duty Input Gear, re-install the differential and slide the axles back into the housing. You may need to rotate the axles to key them into the differenial.

STEP 14

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Replace the stock plastic cover with this beautiful AX31429 Axial AR60 Machined High Clearance Differential Cover.

STEP 15

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Ok, now it’s time for the steering. On one side at a time, pull the plastic parts off, keeping the bearings and hat bushings handy. Re-assemble the the AX30762 Axial XR10 Aluminum C-Hub Carrier and AX31434 Axial AR60 Machined Steering Knuckles. Note the orientation of the parts; if you get confused, look at the opposite side of the steering to make sure you’ve assembled it correctly (the reason why I suggest removing only one side at a time).

STEP 16

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
The AX31428 Axial AR60 Steering Upgrade Kit comes with a small build sheet in it. Use that to assemble the steering links, then attach them to your steering knuckles. The final assembly should look like this.

STEP 17

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Using STEP 9 as a guide, slide one C-hub onto the axle and secure. Now slide the other C-hub onto the axle and secure.

STEP 18

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
At first, I thought the shocks were going to be a pain; replacing oil, bleeding, etc. However, if you complete this step carefully, you won’t have to do any of that!

Start by inserting the rubber o-ring into the AX31430 Axial King Shocks Aluminum Collars; set aside. Grab your shocks and remove the lower spring retainer and spring. Carefully remove the shock cap and set the shock off to the side in some sort of stand. Pull the bladder out of the shock cap (if it’s up in there) and install it into the AX31430 Axial King Shocks Aluminum Cap; set aside. Grab your shock again and spin the plastic collar off; it can only be removed from the top. Spin the King Aluminum Collar on followed by the King Aluminum Shock Cap. Install the spring from the bottom and the AX31431 Axial Aluminum Shock Spring Retainer. These retainers utilize a small screw to keep them from popping off in the event of an crash. These are, after all, Monster Trucks – there will be plenty of crashing.

STEP 19

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Re-attach the shocks to the lower links and, wah-lah. Your completed from clip should look like this! Ain’t she pretty?

STEP 20

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Attach your front end to the chassis; if you’re unsure, use STEP 4 and the three red arrows to remind you. This is also the time to re-attach the servo and servo horn. Use a dab of blue threadlocker on the four screws that attach the servo to the aluminum mounts to make sure they stay put.

STEP 21

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
I’ll be moving to the rear of the MAX-D, installing the parts shown here. The procedure will be pretty much the same as the front end; the only minor difference will be the lockouts. Be sure to pay attention to the WB8 center driveshaft coupler as well.

STEP 22

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Remove the rear clip; STEP 4 and the red arrows will help you out here. You’ll need to remove the anti-roll bar connections that attach at the lower link mount.

STEP 23

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Attach the AX31244 Axial Upper Link Plate Set and AX31245 Axial Lower Link Plate Set as well as the AX31433 Axial AR60 Machined Link Mounts.

STEP 24

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Remove the lockouts and pull the axles out slightly; this will allow you to remove the rear differential.

STEP 25

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
With the same procedure as the front, replace the stock gear with the AX30395 Axial Heavy Duty Diff Gear.

STEP 26

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Remove and replace the AX30395 Axial Heavy Duty Input Gear from the other side of the axle, then re-install the diff gear. Cap the opening off with the AX31429 Axial AR60 Machined High Clearance Differential Cover. Key the rear axles into the diff gear, then slide the AX30789 Axial AR60 OCP Aluminum Straight Axle Hub Carriers into place. These are an easy install; they are a straight fit and can’t be clocked like the front C-hub.

STEP 27

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
I replaced the plastic bits with the aluminum upgrades like I did with the front shocks.

STEP 28

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Boom – the rear clip is done! Your final assembly should look like this.

STEP 29

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Re-attach the rear clip and connect the anti-roll bar. Since we replaced the plastic link mounts with aluminum, you’ll want to add a small drop of blue threadlocker to help keep the anti-roll bar links in place.

STEP 30

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Alright – on to my favorite portion of the build, the electronics! Now, this is MAX-D – MAXIMUM DESTRUCTION – so I’m going big and replacing the stock brushed system with some serious Axial mojo; something Tom Meents would be proud of. I’ll be dropping in an AX24260 Axial AE-3 Vanguard Brushless ESC and AX31047 Axial Brushless 3150kV Motor. Since this is a pretty healthy upgrade, I see it only fitting to upgrade a couple other parts as well.

STEP 31

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
To make this part of the build easier, I started by removing the top part of the roll cage and interior.

STEP 32

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Here’s a better look at the ESC tray. We’ll get to it in a minute.

STEP 33

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Flip the MAX-D over and remove the four screws that hold the transmission in place. Axial uses two different screw lengths here so to make sure I get them back in the correct holes, I’ve added a little L (for Longer). Once the screws are out, unplug the motor and pull the whole transmission assembly out. It’s actually alot easier than it looks.

STEP 34

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Remove the gear cover followed by the motor and slipper assembly.

STEP 35

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Remove the stock motor place and replace with the AX30860 Axial Machined Motor Plate.

STEP 36

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Before attaching the spur gear, make sure you attach the AX31068 Axial Slipper Pads. They’re sticky-backed so they’re not reusable; we have to add new ones to our AX31163 Axial Steel Spur Gear 32P 56T. Re-assemble the slipper clutch. I would suggest tightening down the slipper nut quite a bit; the added power needs a tighter slipper.

The only drawback with the AX31047 Axial Brushless 3150kV Motor is the fact that it uses a 5mm output shaft; the stock motor uses a 3mm. This means you’ll need a new pinion gear. I didn’t want the MAX-D to just have more power, I wanted it to be fast as well, so I’m starting with a AX30839 13T 32P Pinion Gear. MO’ POWA ARH ARH ARH

STEP 37

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Now that I have a new heart for the MAX-D, it’s time to transplant it back in the truck. Remember to install the screws in the correct holes.

STEP 38

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Flip the SMT10 back over and remove the top to the receiver box. Carefully pull the stock ESC power lead out of the receiver and remove it from the truck.

STEP 39

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Apply some double-sided tape to the bottom of the AX24260 Axial AE-3 Vanguard Brushless ESC and attach it to the ESC platform. Route the ESC power lead through the waterproof seal and into the receiver box as shown. Re-attach the receiver box lid.

Finally, plug the brushless motor wires into the ESC, matching the A-wire to the A-plug, the B-wire to the B-plug and the C-wire to the C-plug.

STEP 40

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
The final step is to re-attach both the interior and top of the roll cage. Looks super tough just sitting there! Time to go see what she can do!

Here’s the list of parts used in this article.

Front End
AX30395 Axial Heavy Duty Bevel Gear Set – 38T/13T
AX30762 Axial XR10 Aluminum C-Hub Carrier
AX31244 Axial Upper Link Plate Set
AX31245 Axial Lower Link Plate Set
AX31428 Axial AR60 Steering Upgrade Kit
AX31429 Axial AR60 Machined High Clearance Differential Cover
AX31430 Axial King Shocks Aluminum Caps and Collar Set – 12mm
AX31431 Axial Aluminum Shock Spring Retainer – 12mm
AX31432 Axial AR60 Machined Servo Plate and Mount Set
AX31433 Axial AR60 Machined Link Mounts
AX31434 Axial AR60 Machined Steering Knuckles

Mid-Section
AX24260 Axial AE-3 Vanguard Brushless ESC
AX30839 13T 32P Pinion Gear
AX30860 Axial Machined Motor Plate
AX31047 Axial Brushless 3150kV Motor
AX31068 Axial Slipper Pads
AX31163 Axial Steel Spur Gear 32P 56T

Rear End
AX30395 Axial Heavy Duty Bevel Gear Set – 38T/13T
AX30789 Axial AR60 OCP Aluminum Straight Axle Hub Carrier
AX31244 Axial Upper Link Plate Set
AX31245 Axial Lower Link Plate Set
AX31429 Axial AR60 Machined High Clearance Differential Cover
AX31430 Axial King Shocks Aluminum Caps and Collar Set – 12mm
AX31431 Axial Aluminum Shock Spring Retainer – 12mm
AX31433 Axial AR60 Machined Link Mounts

Installing a Snow Plow on Your SCX10

tech_snowplow

Words and photos by Tony Phalen

Being a SoCal native, I’ve never had a reason to build a RC vehicle with a snow plow attachment. After a move to Connecticut back in 2013, it occurred to me why a slew of snow-moving builds pop up in that latter months of the year. Funny thing is I never took advantage of this situation, that is, until I moved BACK to sunny Southern California in 2015. After seeing a bunch of videos on YouTube with guys plowing their front yards, a friend (in CT) hit me up wanting me to build a custom rig for her husband for his birthday.

The entire build was pretty awesome, but for this article I’m going to just run through the quick steps of attaching RC4WD’s plow unit on the SCX10 Ram Power Wagon.

Step 1

Installing a RC4WD Snow Plow on Your SCX10
My first step in any build is to lay out the parts so I know what I’m working with. We have our SCX10 and the parts from RC4WD’s Snow Plow unit – a pretty simple plow that comes almost completely assembled. A few extra pieces come with the kit to attach it to the frame rails on the SCX10. You’ll also need a spare servo, preferably one with a decent amount of torque.

Step 2

Installing a RC4WD Snow Plow on Your SCX10 The plow attaches to the SCX10 between the frame rails. To get to this area, we need to first remove the stock plastic cap. Two screws is all it takes, then give the plastic cap a good pull to remove it.

Step 3

Installing a RC4WD Snow Plow on Your SCX10 Assemble the bumper mount as shown. You’ll want to make sure the two mounting ‘tabs’ (red arrow) are tilted up; this angles the plow correctly once installed. Also take note of the flat area on the plow mounts (green arrow) – notice the flat spot is pointing down. I suggest using blue threadlocker on all the screws here to prevent them from falling out.

Step 4

Installing a RC4WD Snow Plow on Your SCX10 Time to install the servo, however before you do, I suggest removing all of the screws (one at a time) and re-installing with a dab of blue threadlocker. I also advise removing the plow blade entirely during the install.

Moving on – slide the servo into place and attach (don’t forget your blue threadlocker). Attach one end of the chain to the servo horn and the other end to the bottom plow pickup. Typically, servos come with the output shaft set at 90°, so let’s start by attaching the servo horn angled up a bit like the photo. We can adjust the ‘pull height’ after we have the entire unit installed. You can re-install the plow blade at this point.

Step 5

Installing a RC4WD Snow Plow on Your SCX10Attach the bumper mount assembly (from Step 3) to the plow assembly. The mount slides into ‘keyed’ slots in the back of the plow assembly. Blue threadlocker is suggested here.

Step 6

Installing a RC4WD Snow Plow on Your SCX10Slide the mounting tabs between the frame rails and secure with the button head screws. Again, blue threadlocker is suggested here as well.

Step 7

Installing a RC4WD Snow Plow on Your SCX10
Remove the receiver box top and feed the servo lead into the box. Axial uses a 3-channel Tactic radio system, so thankfully there is an open port for the plug – port 3. Re-install the receiver box top.

Now, before you head on out to remove some snow, we need to test the plow for proper operation. Turn the transmitter on, then plug in the battery and turn the SCX10 on. There are two buttons right under your thumb (on the transmitter) – one raises the plow, the other lowers it. Go ahead and give it a quick test. If the buttons raise and lower the plow, you’re good to go. If you want the plow to raise up more, you have 2 options; 1) remove the servo horn and angle it up more or 2), shorten the chain by changing the attachment points.

Good luck and happy plowing!

axial-article-cover-photo-1

Here is a list of parts used in this article:

AX90037 SCX10™ Ram Power Wagon 1/10th Scale Electric 4WD – RTR
Z-X0007 RC4WD Blade Snow Plow
36645 Hitec D‑645MW 32‑bit, High Speed, Metal Gear Servo

Custom Build: SCX10 DAKAR RALLY TRUCK by LEO WORKSHOP

tech_scx10dakar
Custom Build: SCX10™ DAKAR RALLY TRUCK by LEO WORKSHOP

Words: Rodney Wills
Build Photos: Zoltan Cisk of Leo Workshop

desert-wings-team-dakar-2015

I’ve always liked the DAKAR Rally and especially the big trucks and motorcycles competing in the event.

WillsRally500

I’ve personally competed in rallies here in the USA on four wheels, so these other two ends of the extreme-spectrum excite me! If I was to compete in the DAKAR Rally, it would either be on the motorcycles or piloting one of the massive trucks!
We all have to dream, right!?

DAKARlogo

January is the annual start of the DAKAR Rally! The DAKAR Rally is the greatest offroad motorsport adventure race of all time! OK, maybe the Camel Trophy might rival DAKAR, that within itself can be a long debate. But, the DAKAR Rally, since 1979, is still a globally followed motorsport event happening still today! Put this into your thought processor, the DAKAR Rally is 13-days and over 5,000 miles! For physical size comparison, lets think about this for a moment as we in the USA/North America have the SCORE INTERNATIONAL BAJA1000 that is just that, a thousand miles from Ensenada to Cabo San Lucas, Mexico. Bring that state-side and that is roughly the distance from Seattle Washington to Los Angeles, California. The USA itself is 2,802 miles from Florida to Washington state! Now that you think about it like that, the DAKAR is like racing back and forth across the USA with some change left over. That’s two consecutive Gumball Rally’s!

But let’s add a twist!
Unimog-Nemesis-Red-Bull-KAMAZ-4911-Dakar-T4-Hero-31Being and R/C enthusiast and more poignantly, an 4X4 offroad enthusiast AND a especially an Axial SCX10 fan… trucks are a natural! The DAKAR Rally is very well known for the TRUCKS! Not these little Ford, Dodge, Chevy and Toyota things we call trucks here in the USA. We are talking names like MAN, IVECO, TARTA, DAF and KAMAZ! BIG TRUCKS in excess of seven thousand pounds worth of trucks! So the search began with Google “SCX10” and “Dakar” clicking on images will result quite a few very cool builds! That sat on the back burner for a while…

We have a friend from Austria, Daniel Siegl, as he is very involved in the R/C community over there… home to KTM! His family has been very connected to KTM motorcycles and KTM itself has been dominate in the motorcycle division of DAKAR. Thus, Daniel has loads of information on both KTM and the TRUCKS that support both my passion and intrigue! But that too is a whole other black hole… moving along.

Through our recent DAKAR discussions, he also showed me an Axial SCX10 based DAKAR truck built by Zoltan Cisk, who I met while attending the 2014 Austrian G6.
But lets first ask the question…

ktm_support_truck_images
Why trucks in the DAKAR rally in the first place?
Because man is involved… No, not MAN the brand, but the species of human race. We will race anything and everything, so why not trucks?!

The DAKAR Rally does not allow “outside” help to the competitors within the race, only the competitors within the race can help one another. Therefore, if the race team has entered support trucks into the race itself, the trucks can haul all the allowed support items to help its other efforts in the other divisions; motorcycle, ATV, UTV, car, buggy, light duty SUV’s. But where there is man and competition, the big trucks will race to win! So, categories were developed. I’m sure at some point a team had a motorcycle in the race along with a support truck and the truck driver drove past his broken-down motorcycle colleague in effort to beat one of the other trucks as they were entangled in their own battle! This made for even more classifications to be added to the DAKAR Rally truck division!

The Truck class (T4), first run as a separate category in 1980, is made up of vehicles weighing more than 3,500 kg (7,716 lb). Trucks participating in the competition are subdivided into Series Production Trucks (Group: T4.1) and Modified Trucks (Group: T4.2), and Group T4.3 (formerly known as T5) trucks are rally support trucks – meaning they travel from bivouac* to bivouac* to support the competition vehicles.

Production Series Trucks – Group: T4.1
This is a full Race Truck with the primary mission to win the T4.1 Truck Category.

Modified Trucks – Group: T4.2
These are fast support trucks with the dual mission to race, but their job is to stop and help their motorcycle or car team mates.

Rapid Assistance Trucks Group T4.3, formally known as the T5 Class.
This class mission is for full support of the race team and travel at a “normal” pace from bivouac to bivouac.

OK, now that you have some background and classification on DAKAR Trucks, what does it take to get one… OK, dream on! So, lets get real… how about one-tenth the size?!1.one-photo-and-dream1: The inspiration!  You too can race DAKAR! Bringing dreams to reality in scale form and scale cost too! But you do have to bring out more than JUST your checkbook or credit card. No, not JUST your PayPal either. Styrene & Xacto blades cost money and like any race vehicle, fabrication is involved, therefore its going to cost you time and elbow grease! But hey, you are building a race vehicle!

Our friend “LEO” Zoltan Cisk from Gödöllő, Hungary set out to build a DAKAR rally raid truck based on a Axial Racing SCX10 chassis. Leo started to build a “scratch built” body inspired by a REDBULL KAMAZ DAKAR Rally truck as seen in the “inspiration” above.

Take a look at the following pictures to get some insight on the process involved in building this unique masterpiece from the ground up or as we say, from scratch.2.planning2: With wheelbase measurements sorted, a flat image template is created on heavy card stock, based on the inspirational image above.

3.b_201306181511032635
3: Styrene plates are made from the stencil. These are the rear panel side pieces.

4.3ddetailswork14: Three dimensional details such as wheel flares are made by cutting additional pieces of Styrene, sanding and glued into place.

5.backendwork25: Assembly of the panels starts to reveal the back portion of the truck.

6.shappingupCab6: It’s a labor of love and the practice of patience. But hey, you are building a RACE TRUCK!

7.GrillDetailwork47: The tedious intricate patience of grill work, much like dental work! A steady hand is a good thing!

8.FinalFitmentwork58: Finally, all the bits, pieces and panels are all assembled to resemble your dream truck!

9.fitmentPreview9: Test fitment on the Axial SCX10 chassis and anticipation builds!

10.PaintWork10: Auto paintwork please!

11.FullPaintDetails11: With the paintwork done, next comes striping and window details in place.
Next comes the flavor!

12.logoapplication OH! You are a factory team!13.FrontProfile Now that we are looking very factory! It’s time…14.DSCF8451 15.DSCF8457

17.DSCF878516: Now to sneak off and do some testing before you meet up with your friendly rivals!

18.Leo's-workshopThank you Leo’s Workshop for sharing these images and thank you for choosing Axial SCX10 for your chassis of choice!

                                    ••••MORE DAKAR••••
Extended reading in English about Gerard De Rooy’s IVECO Powerstar T4 and all the detailed undercarriage and interior photos!
http://www.fourwheeler.com/features/1410-iveco-powerstar-t4-truck-dakar-monster-masterpiece-in-metal/

More about the DAKAR Rally History: http://www.dakar.com/dakar/2016/us/history.html

A great video with great truck coverage • Dakar Syndrome from RaceFace S&M:

Leo Workshop’s Original thread:
http://www.scale4x4rc.hu/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=369

STYRENE http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=Styrene

bivouac* pronounced ˈbivo͞oˌak or in my Bama’engrish, “biv-o-wack”
The word bivouac is French and ultimately derives from an 18th-century Swiss German usage of beiwacht (bei by, wacht watch or patrol).

A bivouac shelter is any of a variety of improvised camp sites such as those used in scouting and mountain climbing. It may often refer to sleeping in the open with a bivouac sack, but it may also refer to a shelter constructed of natural materials like a structure of branches to form a frame, which is then covered with leaves, ferns, and similar material for waterproofing and duff (leaf litter) for insulation. It is sometimes called a bivvy for short.