Formula D – Long Beach

It was a beautiful Saturday morning and the Wife and I had plans to meet our Friends at Falken in Long Beach for Round 1 of Formula Drift.

Huge thanks to Falken for their hospitality!

We arrived just in time to watch the top 16 battle it out for the win.  Before they started I manged to walk around and check out all the new cars built for this season.

There has been quite a big swing to V8 power this year.

Matt Power’s Need for speed backed car sporting a pair of pink wheels on the drivers side (yellow on the passenger).  With the new LS engine under the hood he was tearing it up in round 1.

Rhys Millen’s Red Bull Hyundai Genesis.  Rumor is that he is pushing 700hp this year.

I was looking forward to watching Vaughn and his new Falken/Monster Energy Ford Mustang, sadly he had bad luck and didn’t Qualify.

Nice tool box!! (a little jealous… :))

Congrats to Team Falken on taking 1st and 3rd place!

Below Results were taken from

Formula DRIFT Professional Championship 2011 Point Standings after 1 Round
1. Pawlak, Justin – Falken Tire Ford Mustang 102 Points
2. Powers, Matt - Need for Speed Nissan S14 94 Points
3. Yoshihara, Daijiro - Discount Tire / Falken Tire Nissan S13  88 Points
4. Forsberg, Chris - NOS Energy Drink / Hankook Tire Nissan 370Z  70 Points
5. Mohan, Kyle - Nexen Tire / Mazdatrix Mazda RX-8  69 Points
6. Grunewald, Conrad - Hankook Tire Chevy Camaro  66 Points
7. Millen, Rhys - RMR / Red Bull Hyundai Genesis Coupe  65 Points
8. Tuerck, Ryan - Gardella Racing / Mobil 1 Pontiac Solstice  63 Points
9. Aasbo, Fredric - Need for Speed / Hankook Scion TC  61.50 Points
10. McNamara, Darren - Falken Tire Pontiac Saturn Sky 58 Points
11. McQuarrie, Tyler - Falken Tire Nissan 350Z 57 Points
11. Wilkerson, Walker - Intec Racing Nissan 240 57 Points
13. Field, Matt - Fatlace Nissan 240SX  56 Points
14. Petty, Ross - Garage Boso / Falken Tire Nissan Silvia S15 55 Points
14. Waldin, Matt - Helix Energy Drink Nissan 350Z  55 Points
16. Mertzanis, Dennis - Mertzanis Racing Nissan 240SX  54.50 Points

Cant wait for the Final Round of Formula D in October when they are back in CA at Irwindale.

Enjoy the images below, be sure to check out all 3 pages.  Thanks for looking!

Brandon’s Formula Offroad Build: Part 1

The latest buzz around Axial has come about after Bender introduced us to Formula Offroad. I was aware of this sport and always enjoyed watching the 1:1 videos, but it never really hit me to build a RC replica of one before. I am a huge fan of Scale RC, so anything I can get my hands on and modify to closely resemble the real thing just adds to the fun factor. The looks of the 1:1 formula offroad vehicles are a bit odd compared to what we normally see offroad in the states, but you can tell that they are built purely with performance in mind.

Take a look at Benders Blog Post for more info on Formula Offroad and his scale version:
Benders Formula Offroad Blog post

After seeing Bender’s build progress, I immediately started kicking ideas around for my own. I really liked the look/performance aspect of using the SCX10 as the base and had an old RCP Crawlers Wreckluse chassis that had been collecting dust for a few years… so I thought to myself, PERFECT!

Here is a picture of a stock RCP Wreckluse chassis with AX10 running gear under it. You can see it has more of a “Rock Crawler” look to it with the large stinger on the front.

Now that I had my starting point, I went out and searched for a 1:1 Formula Offroad Jeep to scale down the proportions from.  For me, Pirate4x4 is the ultimate source for full-size images and builds.

I was able to quickly find a CJ3 build that I really liked and decided that the overall look would fit my build perfectly. Jeep CJ3 Formula Offroad –

I wont be following that build exactly since the Wreckluse chassis comes with a modern jeep hood and the cage shape is slightly different, but it can give me a great reference for the overall wheelbase, axle location, and stance.

So here is my Wreckluse chassis stripped down and ready for some “slight” alterations!

From there, I started to take a look at what needed to be changed. First was get rid of the huge stinger. None of the 1:1 Formula Offroad rigs have anything beyond the front axle or body work. Then, I started to sort out the link lengths to get the axles positioned correctly and set the wheelbase. Here is my first mock up to get an idea of what needed to be changed on the cage.

Current parts list for the pics below:
AX10 Axles
Aluminum C’s, Knuckles, and straight axle adapters
AX10 Universal Joints
72-103mm Comp Shocks
AX10 Transmission
Axial Rockster 2.2 Beadlocks
Axial AX30714 7x73mm Threaded aluminum pipes
Axial XR10 Linkage Set
Axial 4 link Truss: AX80043 TR Links Parts Tree
Axial Spur Gear Cover: AX80078
Futaba S9157 Servo
Pro-Line Sand Paw Tires
Pro-Line Beadlocks
HPI Sand Thrower Tires
RCP Crawlers Wreckluse

From there it was obvious that even with the stinger removed the remaining tube work in front of the grill/hood also needed to be removed. The old bracing from the bottom of the stinger needed to be modified as well, with the low stance the front links/axle were interfering with the Wreckluse chassis.

So here is the updated chassis, looks a little “stubby” and tall now. Isn’t that how its supposed to look though? I’m sure it will grow on me.

Thinking ahead I added this tube in the back of the cage for a rear sway bar.

Now I could have just painted the chassis and called it good, but I felt it was important to leave it raw and finish the build. This way, after driving it for the first time I could easily tear it down and make any modifications to the cage without having to strip any paint off.  So I moved forward and started assembling everything.

In the following pics I was able to complete the following:

  • Body Painted
  • Suspension/Link geometry sorted out
  • Battery mount complete
  • Rear Sway Bar (we will see if the front needs one after the initial drive)
  • Hood body mounts using SCX10 parts left over from a kit. The body posts were perfect!
  • Axial orange beadlock rings for the rockster beadlocks

I definitely was able to achieve the look I wanted using the Wreckluse chassis.  It took some work and unfortunately it wasn’t something I could just bolt together and be finished, but that makes it unique and adds to the overall appeal for me.

Still a lot of work to do!

  • Install Electronics
  • Rebuild the Transmission with HD internals
  • Install Driveshafts
  • Possibly relocate the front steering links to behind the axle to protect everything
  • Mount rear tires on 2.2 Rockster Beadlocks with matching Orange rings
  • Go have fun!!

Stay tuned for Part 2 when I share some of the action shots, hopefully some video, and the final pictures with the painted cage.  Of course I will be adding a ton of scale details!  Its just too hard to resist!!  Thanks for reading.

Now available! See Part 2 of the build HERE.
See Part 3 of the build HERE.

Brandon, Brad and Scott’s XR10 Set-Up Sheets

Here’s an inside look at the XR10 set-ups that Brandon, Scott and myself run. These set-up sheets are great for documenting changes to your set-up, and the effects those changes have on your rig’s performance.

Bender’s XR10 set-up sheet

Brandon’s XR10 set-up sheet

Scott’s XR10 set-up sheet

If anyone has any questions let us know. Thanks.

Brandon’s Axial SCX10 Honcho

I have been having a blast with my Axial SCX10 Honcho kit for about a year now and thought I would share everything I have done to it.

Build List:
AX90014 Honcho Kit
AX30495 Axial Aluminum C Hubs
AX30533 Axial Hi-clearance Knuckles (2pcs)
AX30090 Axial 61-90mm Aluminum Shock Set
Axial LED Light Bucket Set
Axial Interior/Exterior Detail Sets
Axial 27T Motor
Futaba S9157 Steering Servo
Castle BEC
MaxAmps 1800mah 11.1V 3S Lipo
Vanquish Products Aluminum Shock Hoops
Vanquish Products Hurtz Dig
Pro-Line Powerstroke Single Stage Springs (Front)
Pro-Line Scale Accessories
RC4WD Rock Lox Tires
RC4WD Stamped Steel Wheels
Custom Behind the axle Steering.

Here are a few quick shots of some of the details I added to my SCX10 Honcho.

I used the Axial LED Light bucket set along with the clear lexan headlight buckets included with the honcho kit to make a realistic headlight. I simply cut holes in the lexan bucket and used some shoogoo to attach everything to the honcho body.

Check out the custom steering setup I made. I fabricated a draglink/tierod to work with the High steer knuckles and the frame mounted steering servo. This also required relocating the shock mounts with some custom tabs to raise the shocks at the axle. These changes did add some slight bump steer due to the short length of the panhard bar (locating link).

Its hard to miss these new Vanquish Products Aluminum Machined Shock Hoops!!

I installed a Vanquish Products Hurtz dig for the extra maneuverability. In this picture you can also see the enclosed box I picked up from Radio Shack that houses my Tekin FXR, Castle Creations BEC, and my Futaba 604 RX. Now I don’t have to worry about water splashing any of my electronics.

The Pro-Line Scale accessories are a must. Check out the detail in the High-Lift jack!

Check out the image Gallery below for pictures from the Axial West Coast Championships scale challenge earlier this year!

Thanks for looking, if you have any questions about my honcho please feel free to ask.

[nggallery id=77]

2010 R/C Rock Crawling Nationals

The 2010 R/C Rock Crawling Nationals, one of the biggest annual R/C rock crawling events, was held on Sept. 9-12th in Disney, Oklahoma.  This event is an invite only competition so to get in, you have to either be the best in your local club to earn an invite or win one of the several qualifying events held during the calender year. So if neither one of those works out, you can enter the last chance qualifier (LCQ) at Nationals a few days before the main event and hope to transfer from there. For Brandon, Scott, and myself, the last option was our only chance of getting into the big show. The three of us showed up a day before the LCQ to try and test our trucks on the local rocks in preparation for Thursday’s qualifier, but mother nature wasn’t going to cooperate. With pouring rain in the forecast for Wednesday and Thursday, we just had to trust that our existing set-ups would be good enough to get through LCQ and qualify for the main event.

We woke up Thursday morning at 6 a.m. sharp to find a torrential downpour outside our hotel room. Good thing we spent a little time water proofing our rigs the night before. We loaded up the rental car with all our gear and headed off to the comp site 20 minutes away. We watched the skies for most of the drive looking for a break in the clouds, but didn’t have much hope for it to clear up. So, we just decided to make the best of it and whatever happens with the weather was obviously out of our control. We pulled up to the comp site about 6:45 a.m. to find that the rain had let up a little. People were mingling around talking set-ups, course design, and just catching up in general since the last time they had seen each other. The driver’s meeting started promptly at 7 a.m. and shortly after, everyone lined up to tech their rigs and made sure everything on their truck was legal for the competition. After your rig passed tech, you were free to go line up and run courses. Once we were finished with tech, Scott, Brandon, and I headed down to be the first competitors to run course #1. The LCQ courses were very tough with jumbled up loose rocks, holes, and a little mud mixed in. This made it very tough to stay on line, and made simple obstacles a challenge. As the day went on, the Rock Gods smiled upon us with some sunshine which helped dry the courses out. After a long wet day of competing, we turned our scorecards in pretty confidently. We were pretty sure that all 3 of us made the cut to transfer. Once all the scores were tallied, the 3 of us ended up 1st (Scott), 2nd (Brandon) and 3rd (myself), with Axial team driver Jason Rioux in 4th and Dave Demaray in 6th. Five XR10′s made the top 10 at the end of the day, which was pretty awesome to see.


Championship Day
Woke up Saturday morning to a little nicer weather. It appeared to have rained over night, but the sky seemed to be clearing up as we made the drive. We pulled into the comp site as the sun was just starting to peak over the trees. It was already shaping up to be a nice day and everyone was excited to start the competition.



RCC Headquarters.


After tech, we made our way down to our first course, which had a nice scale river flowing through it. Here are a few highlights from that course.




Brandon’s XR10 in action.





Squirrel’s XR10.


I thought squirrels were afraid of water??



Axial Racing’s good friend Yoshiaki Kataoka showed up with about 10 other competitors from Japan for this year’s event. A great group of guys that love to crawl, have a lot of fun in the process, and are a blast to watch on course.



Nice axles!






Jeff Gill and his freshly built XR10.




Yoshiaki on course #2.




My XR10 on course #2.




There were a few 1:1′s playing in the park during the competition as well.




Team Carnage Crew brought their Axial sponsored KOH buggy out, and made short work of this waterfall.




A few pictures from course #3.


Me dropping into the crack of death. This crack gave a lot of competitors a really hard time.


There were plenty of scalers running around during the competition too.




A few pictures from course #5.









John Riplinger’s latest creation in action.


Titanium axle housings are just sexy!





Love seeing AX10 based rigs still competing.


The rock candy girls from left to right, Mindy Howe, Becky Barger and Jess Downing. The girls raised over $3000 for breast cancer research by raffling off a complete competition ready truck, and an XR10 kit donated by Axial. Well done ladies!!


Finals shootout
After a long hot day in the sun, here is how the top 5 ended up going into the shootout course. This year, the shootout went a little differently then it did in the years before. In the past, the #5 driver went first, then 4th, then 3rd, and so on. This year, the running order was randomly pulled out of a hat, putting even more pressure on all the top five guys. To top that off, there was “bonus land” after gate 10. This was an area with multiple bonus gates set up sporadically throughout a certain area. If you cleared gate 10, and had time left on the clock, you could go run as many bonus gates as your remaining time allowed. Once you cleared a bonus gate, you had to return to a boundary marker and drive around the outside of it to “bank” the -5 points per gate you earned. A very interesting and fun twist to the shootout.

1st Austin Dunn
2nd Jeremy Toney
3rd Travis Crockett
4th Andy Zuber
5th Shoji Murata

A few pictures from the finals. Jeremy Toney’s name was pulled out of a hat first, so he had to be the guinea pig for everyone else and run the finals course first.




Austin Dunn’s name was called next.


Gate 4 had about a two foot tall ledge you had to drop off into an area tightly lined with boundaries. Austin took the smart approach and jumped from the gate all the way past the boundary to avoid any penalties.



Austin had well over a minute left after clearing gate 10. He then proceeded to clear at least 5 bonus gates before his time expired. Here you can see him hard on the throttle to get back to the bank.


Andy Zuber’s name was called next. Once your name was called you had 30 seconds to start the course.




Japanese driver Shoji Murata was next up.




Travis Crockett was lucky enough to go last.



While everyone waited for the final scores to be tallied we gathered around for the prize raffle.


Axial donated a new XR10 for the raffle. Colorado driver Mica Renquist was the lucky winner.


Here are the final results from the 2.2 class.

1st Austin Dunn
2nd Jeremy Toney
3rd Travis Crockett


That wraps up this year’s nationals. Axial would like to thank all the sponsors and volunteers that put in a ton of hard work and sweat to make this event the best it could be. See you next year!!

XR10 Build – Part 5 – Beadlocks

For this last installment of our XR10 build, I will cover the assembly of the beadlock wheels. This wheel is a completely new design. It is a true beadlock wheel, but it only requires the removal of 6 screws to change your tires. You can tune your foam or change the weight inside your wheels fast and easy. It is a real time saver when you are playing with different set-ups.

First thing we need to do is grab Bag “J” and our wheels.


Here is a break down of the parts required for each wheel.


Starting with the front wheels, we will install the internal weight rings first.


I attached the 2 halves of the rings together with one screw, inserted the weights into the center slot of the ring halves, and wrapped the ring around the wheels. It’s time to install the second weight ring screw and lock nut.



For tires we will use Pro-Line G8 Chisels.


Insert the wheel into the tire.


Then pull the beads out over the front and back of the wheels.


Now flip the wheel 180 degrees, grab the second half of the wheel, and slide it into place. There are grooves molded into both halves to keep everything lined up.


Slide the second half of the wheel all the way in until it stops.


Now flip the wheel over and set your beadlock ring into place. Line up the holes in the rings with the holes in the wheels.


You can attach the rings by hand with a 1.5mm Allen wrench. But, I suggest investing in a decent cordless driver/drill, with some small metric hex attachments. It just makes assembling the wheels so much easier and faster. I personally use Hitachi’s DB 3DL.


I set the torque on the clutch to 9, removed, and reinstalled my rock rings several times without stripping anything.


I usually start with 3 screws and insert them into the ring holes that don’t have the weight retainer ring relief cut in them. Then evenly tighten them down until the ring almost bottoms out on the wheel.


Flip the wheel over and make sure the backside bead is seated properly.


If the backside of the tire is seated properly, flip the wheel over again and tighten each screw down a few turns until all 3 screws are tight. If you try to tighten 1 screw all the way up at a time you will run the risk of stripping out your screw holes or the hex in the head of the screw.


Now insert your last 3 screws and tighten them down as needed.


The total weight of the stock wheel with the weight rings and tires installed is 12.3 ounces, a perfect starting point.


Next we will install the wheels on our freshly built XR10. Grab the four small M3 set screws, drive pins, and hexes.


Insert the drive pins into the outer axles.


Install the small M3 set screw about half way into the drive hex with a 1.5mm driver.


Next, slide the hex into place over the drive pins, and tighten up the set screw. The set screws don’t have to be tightened down with much pressure, just snug them up to hold the hex in place. Now is not the time to practice your Hulk impersonation people.


Slide the wheel over the hex and outer axles. Then tighten them down with the supplied 4mm lock nut.


There you have it. The finished product:



Well, that wraps up our box stock XR10 build, minus painting the body and installing the electronics. We will go into more detail on those aspects soon too. Only thing I changed from the manual is the rear shock ears. I moved them down one hole from what the manual suggests to level out my ride height.

Be sure to check out RCCrawler for more tips and tricks on the XR10.

XR10 Build – Part 4 – Chassis Assembly

For this installment of our XR10 build, I will cover the assembly of the chassis and link installation.

First thing’s first, tear open Bag “G” and dump it’s contents into your parts tray.


Grab your front axle and a pair of upper suspension links. Slide the long 30mm screw through the ears, and rod ends, in the top cap. Use one of the thin M3 Nylock nuts to secure the upper links to the axle. Take note that there are standard M3 Nylock nuts, as well as thin low profile M3 Nylock nuts for this step.


Here you can see the difference in thickness between the two different versions of the nuts.


Next install the lower links, and shocks. Insert the straight rod end of the lower links into position on the axle housing and secure them both with the supplied hardware. Here is a shot of the front axle with the links and shocks installed.


Repeat the last 2 steps for the rear axle.


Now it’s time to start assembling the chassis. Open Bag “H” and grab the required chassis components for this step. Build your front shock ears per the instructions and set them aside for now. Meanwhile, assemble the rear shock ears and attach them to the chassis plates. Take note that the chassis is not symmetrical.


Next up we will grab the passenger side chassis plate, skid plate, and battery tray. Attach the skid plate to the chassis with the supplied hardware. Then grab the battery tray and attach it to the chassis. Note that the battery tray gets sandwiched between the chassis plates and shock ears.


Now you can install the 2nd chassis plate as required.



Time to install the body posts next. This step is pretty straight forward. One thing I can suggest is tilting the body posts a little so they point towards the front and rear axles just slightly.



Now we will move on to the electronics tray. First thing we need to do is apply the small thin strip of foam to the bottom of the tray. This foam will help prevent dust and moisture from entering your receiver box if you crawl in less then ideal conditions.



I am setting this XR10 up for dual speed controls, so I used the ESC mounting tab that allows you to install dual Tekin FXR’s. Attach the mounting tab to the radio tray using the supplied hardware.



Next we can set the receiver box o-ring into place and attach the lid.



Install the bottom cap for the radio box. Don’t forget to apply the last piece of foam to the cap before installing it, and make sure your foam orientation is right before you apply it.


Install the cap as required.



Next we can install the radio tray into the chassis and secure it with the 4 supplied flat head screws.


Now we can install the body posts.


Time to bolt up the axles.


Front axle will be first. Pop the wire stays into place on the upper links. Take note there are 2 different sizes and they have to go in their specified locations.



You can hook the links and shocks up to the chassis in any order. I chose to do the lower links first, then the upper links, and shocks last.




Moving on to the rear axle. Pop the wire stays into place as required on the upper links. Then install the links and shocks.



And your done!!


That takes care of the chassis and links. We are almost finished! The last post will cover the beadlocks.

XR10 Build – Part 3 – Shocks and Links

For this installment of our XR10 build, I will cover link and shock assembly.

To get started we will need Bag “E”, part’s tree #AX80059 (2) and parts tree #AX80057.


Here you can see all the parts that make up one of the front lower links.


First thing we’ll do is thread the long 16mm set screw into the lower link sleeve.


Now you can thread the second 16mm set screw into the opposite end of the lower shock mount/link sleeve. After doing so, install the 3rd 16mm set screw into the curved rod end. Slide the lower link into the sleeve and thread it onto the 16mm set screw until it’s tight. Now install the rod ends to both sides of the lower links and install the flange balls. The straight rod ends go on the shock mount side of the links and the curved go on the opposite end. Here’s what the finished front lower links look like.


Now onto the rear lower links. Here you can see all the parts required for one rear lower link.


Thread the long 20mm set screw into a curved rod end. Slide the lower link into the link sleeve and install the curved rod end to pinch the sleeve between the rod end and link. Now thread the 16mm set screw into a second curved rod end and install it on the opposite end of the link. Then install the flange balls into the rod ends as required.


Time to make the upper links. Here are all the parts required for this step.


To install the plastic rod ends into the plastic links I like to run an M3X.5 tap into the ends and links to get the threads started straight. If you don’t have access to a tap, you can just use one of the 16mm threaded studs and an Allen wrench to start the threads. Then thread the rod ends onto the links, and install the flange balls as needed. Here you can see the finished links ready to be installed.


Shocks are next. Grab Bag “F” and dump the contents into your parts tray.


First step will be prepping the shock cartridges. Here you can see all the parts required to make a complete cartridge.


First apply a little grease to your cartridge o-rings. Put a dab of grease on your finger and work the grease all over the o-rings before dropping them into your shock cartridges. This will help prevent tearing the o-ring during assembly.


Then install the first o-ring into the shock cartridge.


Now set the plastic spacer (part #AX80035) into place on top of the first o-ring.


Lube up the second o-ring and install it on top of the plastic spacer.



Now snap the top cap of the shock cartridge into place.


Once the shock cartridges are assembled, you can install the o-ring that goes over the cartridge.


Now it’s time to install the shock shafts into the shock cartridges. Slide the piston side of the shock shaft in through the hex side of the shock cartridge. You can slide the shaft through from either side, but installing the end with smaller threads first lessens your chances of tearing the o-rings. Wipe any excess grease off the shock shafts after installing them into the cartridges.


Next we can install the shock pistons. I personally use the two-holed Delrin pistons that come with the kit. Install one flat washer onto the shock shaft, slide the shock piston into place, install the second flat washer and tighten the Nylock nut down until it stops.


Now you can install the rubber bump stop and rod end onto the shaft.



Thread the plastic spring pre-load adjuster onto the shock body.


Here you can see all the components before filling the body with shock oil.


Install the shock bladder in the top cap.


Make sure you seat the bladder down into the cap as best you can before threading it onto the shock body. This will help eliminate the bladder from distorting as you tighten the shock cap.


Now we can fill the shock body with oil. I am going to bleed the shocks through the shock cartridge over the shock cap, because the plastic shock caps don’t have bleeder holes like the aluminum versions. Fill the body with oil until the oil just touches the shock cartridge threads inside the shock body.


Now, with the shock shaft fully extended, set the cartridge assembly in place, and thread the cartridge into the body a turn or two only.


Compress the shock shaft until it bottoms out to allow any air bubbles and excess oil to escape. You can do this by holding the shock shaft in the compressed position and thread the shock cartridge all the way into the body as tight as you can with your fingers. Now grab a 10mm box wrench and tighten the cartridge down all the way. Cycle the shock a few times at this point and look for leaks between the cartridge and shock body. If you still see a little oil bleeding out, tighten the cartridge up more.



Investing in a 10mm wrench for the shocks is key in my opinion, it’ll make rebuilding your shocks so much easier. I spent $7 on this wrench with a ratcheting box end at Ace Hardware. You can buy a standard 10mm wrench for about $4.


The last thing we need to do is install the springs and lower spring retainers to finish this step off.


That does it for the link and shock assembly. Stay tuned for the next installment, covering link installation and chassis assembly.

XR10 Build – Part 2 – Rear Axle

Here’s the 2nd installment of our step by step XR10 build. This post will cover proper assembly of the rear axle.

First step, open Bag “C” and dump it into your part’s tray. Building the rear axle is very similar to the front, especially the gear box assembly.


Now grab the required parts for step 15.


Install 2 of the flange bearings into their proper bores in the motor plate. Afterwards, insert the drive pin into the transfer shaft, slide the drive gear over the pin, and snap the E-clip into place. Once that is all together, slide the shaft through the first flange bearing.


Now install the 2nd drive pin into the transfer shaft, slide the idler gear over that, and snap the 2nd E-clip into place. Install the 5×8 bearing into the rear axle housing’s top cap and attach the cap to the motor plate with the supplied flat head screw.


Install the last flange bearing and remaining gears into their required positions.


Hit the gears with a little grease and install the gear box case over the motor plate.


Fit the three 5x8mm bearings into the cap of the gear box.


Now slide the cap into position, and tighten everything down. You can install the motor at this point too and set the gear mesh as needed.


Open Bag “D” and pour the contents into your part’s tray. Grab the top half of the rear axle housing and set the gearbox into place. Secure the gearbox to the top half of the case with the 2 supplied self tapping screws shown in Step 20. Next, install the bearings on the spool gear and apply a little grease to the gear. Flip the whole axle/gear box assembly over and set the spool gear into place in the axle housing. Again, note the orientation of the spool gear in the housing as it is not symmetrical.



Next, you can install the rear straight axles, take note that they are 2 different lengths.


Make sure you insert the cutting brake plug into the rear housing too. This will help keep debris out of your housing and gear box.


Mate the two halves of the rear housing together using the 8 screws shown in step 22.


Moving on to step 23 you can install the cutting brake servo mount and last few screws for the top cap.


Time to install the rear lockouts and bearings. Slide the 5×11 bearing over the rear straight axles.


Afterwards, slide the plastic lockouts onto the ends of the axle housing and secure with the 4 supplied self tapping screws.


Insert the long 3x45mm screw through the rear housing and secure with the supplied M3 Nylock nut.



Here you can see both complete axles ready to go under the XR10 chassis.


That wraps up the rear axle’s assembly. Stay tuned for the next installment of our step-by-step XR10 build!

XR10 Build – Part 1 – Front Axle

Now that the XR10′s are starting to hit distributors, we figured that it was a good time to do a step-by-step build of the new kit with pictures and detailed descriptions. This will serve as a guide for a basic XR10 build by the kit instructions. While it is relatively a straight forward build, there are a few steps that require specific screw lengths. It is important that the correct length hardware is used during the build to ensure proper performance.

So, let’s get started.



First thing we will do is open that sexy box and take a look inside.




First step involves building the front gear box/axle assembly.


Open up Bag “A” and dump the contents into a small tray or parts catcher of some sort. Each step has it’s own bag of hardware, and assorted parts. So, it is very easy to build step by step.


Here you can see all the parts required for step one.


First thing we’ll do is set 2 of the flange bearings in the appropriate holes of the motor plate. Then install the drive pin, drive gear and E-clip onto the transfer shaft.


Now slide the transfer shaft through the front bearing and install the drive pin, idler gear and 2nd E-clip.


Grab parts tree #AX80063 and remove part #1, the axle housing’s top cap. Install the small 5×8 bearing into the top cap for the transfer shaft. Then, attach the top cap to the motor plate with the supplied flat head screw. After everything is in place, check to make sure the shaft spins freely and the drive gear isn’t rubbing anywhere inside the top cap.



Next, we will install the remaining gears into the gear box. Grab part # AX30556, install the drive pin and idler gear.



Then, set the assembly into place with the 12 tooth gear towards the flange bearing in the motor plate. Next, install the last flange bearing and stepped gear so the smaller 12t gear is facing away from the motor plate.


Use the supplied grease in the kit to lube the gears up a little.


Now you can install the plastic gear case over the whole assembly.


Make sure you install the small M3 Nylock nut into the gear case (see arrow) before moving on to the next step.


Next, grab the plastic gear case cover and install the three 5×8 bearings.


Install the gear cover as shown in the directions.


Grab the front axle housing, specifically the top half. Set the gear box into place, and attach with the supplied hardware. Be careful with this step, it is important that the correct screws go into the correct hole. If too long of screw is used you run the risk of pinching the bearings on either side of the spool gear. This will put tremendous strain on the whole front axle, causing binding at the bare minimum.


For the next step we will install the bearings onto both sides of the spool gear, and grease the gear up before dropping it into place in the axle housing. Pay close attention to the spool gear’s orientation in the axle housing too, it isn’t symmetrical on both sides.


Now install the outer bearings into the axle tubes. Pay close attention to this step too. There are 3 different size bearings in Bag “B”. You want to install the smaller 5×10 bearings in the axle tubes. The slightly bigger 5×11 bearings are for the steering knuckles. Here you can see the slight size difference in the 2 bearings.



Grab the bottom half of the front axle housing and install the steering slider, again pay attention to the orientation.


Next assemble the 2 halves of the axle housing and tighten everything up.



Now it’s time to install the C hubs and steering servo mount. Here you can see all the parts required for this step.


Slide the C hubs onto the ends of the axle tubes, note the orientation on these as well. The longer ear will go towards the bottom of the axle housing. Use the supplied short self tapping screws to attach the C’s to the housing. Then, attach the plastic servo mount to the aluminum servo plate using the self tapping button head screw. Then use the flat head screws to tie the servo mount to the axle housing.


Here is what the front axle will look like when you are done with this step.


Moving on to the knuckles and inner axles. Here you can see the new oversize universals for the front axle.


A closer look at the U-joint.


Time to prep the steering knuckles for installation on the axle.


Drop the bearings into place on the backside of the knuckles.


Install the 5×11 bearing into the front of the knuckle, and screw the steer arm onto the passenger side knuckle.


Now grab the knuckles, flange pipes and 3×10 button head screws to install the knuckles.


Install the universal axles into the axle housing first. Then insert the flange pipes into the knuckles, slide the knuckles over the universals and onto the C hubs. Use the 3×10 screws to secure the knuckles to the C’s. Now check and make sure you aren’t getting any bind, the knuckles should move freely. Otherwise your servo will have to work even harder then normal.



Now on to the steering turnbuckles.


Thread the rod ends onto the turnbuckles, take note that one side has a right handed thread and the other a left handed thread. So, one rod end will thread on clockwise, the other will be counter clockwise. Thread the rod ends on until you have an 11.5mm (or .453 for those anti metric countries like us) gap between the ends. Using turnbuckles like this allows you to change toe in/toe out on the fly.


Pop the flange balls into the rod ends with a pair of pliers, note the direction of these too as you assemble.


Here you can see both turnbuckles side by side. Notice the groove cut into the hex on the turnbuckle, make sure they are facing the same rod end for both sides.


Install the turnbuckles onto the front axle as instructed, and use thread lock on the steering slide to avoid any lost screws while out in the rocks.


The complete weight of the stock front axle is 8.7 ounces.


That wraps it up for the front axle. Stay tuned for the next installment on assembling the rear axle.