Step By Step Wraith Kit Build – Part II – Shocks and Driveshafts

For this installment of our Wraith kit build I will cover shock and driveshaft assembly. Start off by finding bag B.

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Another upgrade I am going to use on this build is metal flange balls. I will be using these in all the rod ends on this kit. They have a little smoother action then the plastic flange balls, and are a lot more durable over time.

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First step will be prepping the shock cartridges. Here you can see all the parts required to make a complete cartridge.

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Install the bigger clear o-ring over the shock cartridge body.

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Apply a little grease to your cartridge o-rings. Put a dab of grease on your finger and work the grease all over the o-rings before dropping them into your shock cartridges. This will help prevent tearing the o-ring during assembly.

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Install the first o-ring into the shock cartridge.

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Now set the plastic spacer (Part #AX80035-4) into place on top of the first o-ring.

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Lube up the second o-ring and install it on top of the plastic spacer.

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Now snap the top cap of the shock cartridge into place.

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Grab your shock shafts, washers, pistons and Nylock nuts. I used the three-holed pistons for this build, to speed up the action of the shocks a little.

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Install one flat washer onto the shock shaft, slide the shock piston into place, install the second flat washer and tighten the Nylock nut down until it stops.

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Insert the shock shaft into the shock cartridge from the top cap side, and wipe away any excess grease from the shock shaft threads.

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Slide the rubber bump stop over the shock shaft.

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Snap the metal flange ball into the shock rod ends, and thread them onto the shock shafts.

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Install the shock bladders into the shock caps. Make sure the bladder is properly seated down into the cap before threading it onto the shock body. This will help keep the bladder from distorting as you tighten the shock cap, and eliminate any chance for leaks.

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Install the threaded pre-load collar onto the shock body, then install the cap.

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Fill the shock body up with oil until it touches the threads inside the shock body. Make sure you let all air bubbles rise to the top of the oil and dissipate before starting assembly.

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Thread the shock cartridge/shaft assembly a couple turns into the shock body, oil should start overflowing at this point. If no oil seeps out, fill the shock body with a little more oil.

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Compress the shock shaft until it bottoms out to allow any air bubbles and excess oil to escape. You can do this by holding the shock shaft in the compressed position and thread the shock cartridge all the way into the body as tight as you can with your fingers. The shaft will rebound a bit when you let go of it, which is normal. Now grab a 10mm box wrench and tighten the cartridge down all the way. Cycle the shock a few times at this point and look for leaks between the cartridge and shock body. If you still see a little oil bleeding out, tighten the cartridge up more.

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Investing in a 10mm wrench for the shock cartridges is key in my opinion, it’ll make rebuilding your shocks so much easier. I spent $7 on this wrench with a ratcheting box end at Ace Hardware. You can also just buy a standard 10mm wrench for about $4. Pliers can be used to tighten the cartridges too. But, over time the pliers can ruin the hex on the plastic cartridges, especially if the pliers slip off the hex while you are tightening everything up.

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Now install the springs, lower spring cups and shock bushings. That completes the shocks.

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Next we will move onto the driveshafts. Go to step 10 in the manual, and find bag C.

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All the parts needed to complete this step.

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First thing we’ll do is slide the u-joint axle pin holder into the driveshaft output.

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Line up the hole in the pin with the slot in the output.

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Slide the driveshaft coupler over the ball end of the output, line up the 1.5mm hole with the slot in the output, and hole in the center pin. Then, slide the 1.5x11mm pin through the whole assembly.

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Slide the 1.5x11mm pin in until it’s flush on both sides.

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Grab the plastic driveshaft retainer ring and slide it into place.

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Next we will attach the metal u-joints to the plastic half shafts. Grab one of the female plastic half shafts, one of the u-joint assemblies and an M3 flat head screw.

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Add a dab of thread lock to the threads of the flat head screw.

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Insert the screw into the driveshaft from the splined end with a 2mm driver.

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Now slide the half shaft onto the coupler, and tighten down the M3 flat head screw.

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Repeat the above steps 3 more times and the driveshafts will be complete.

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That will do it for this installment of our Wraith kit build. Next step we will tackle is the link assembly, so stay tuned!

Axial Wraith Kit Build Series

Step 1

Step 3

Step 4

Step 5

Step 6

Step 7

Step By Step Wraith Kit Build – Part I – Axles

Now that the Wraith kits are hitting hobby shops, we figured it would be a perfect time for another step by step build. I recently built up one of these kits and took photos of each and every step. Over the next few days you will see this build progress, step by step, with photos and descriptions. I will also show a few different option/upgrade parts as well with this particular build. For the first step in this build we will go over what’s inside the box, then start with the construction of the axles.

Prepping my desk for the build.

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A peak inside the box shows all the goodies!

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Here you can see the contents of the kit laid out.

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The decals and instruction manual.

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Step 1 in the manual says locate bag A.

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Find the hardware bag, which contains all the metal parts required for this build. Open it up and look for bag A.

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Bag A located.

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Bag A’s contents.

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Here are all the parts required to build both differentials.

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Start off with what you need to build the first ring gear assembly.

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First thing we’ll do is install the locker in the plastic differential case, and place the differential gasket over the ring gear.

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Now mate the differential case to the ring gear and attach using the supplied 2mm screws. Then slide the bearings over the bosses on each side of the differential. Repeat these steps for both assemblies.

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Assembling the pinion gear is next. Insert the 2mm pin through the pinion shaft hole closest to the end of the shaft with the E-clip groove cut into it, and slide the pinion gear into place over the pin. Then snap the E-clip into place with a pair of needle nose pliers.

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Locate the AR60 axle housings and snap the plastic tabs off.

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Trim any excess plastic away from the housing with an X-acto.

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Find the differential cover parts tree.

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Here are all the parts required for step 2.

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Start with the first housing and the parts needed for assembly.

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Insert the first 5×11 bearing into the backside of the AR60 housing.

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Slide the 2nd 5×11 bearing into place on the pinion shaft.

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Press the pinion gear into the housing.

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Insert the differential assembly into the housing next. Make sure you note the direction the ring gear is suppose to be facing too. The teeth of the ring gear should be facing the short side of the housing for the front axle.

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Install the bearing caps with the supplied self tapping screws.

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Apply a little grease to the ring and pinion gears. Don’t go overboard with the grease either, a light coat that fully covers the gears is more then enough.

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Grab your differential cover and four 2mm screws.

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Install the diff cover with the supplied hardware. Also note the direction of the diff cover placement too.

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Now repeat the above steps for the rear axle. Again note the direction of the ring gear, the teeth should be facing the long side axle tube for the rear axle. This would be a good time to mark the axles so you know which one is for the front and rear. I marked the front axle with an “F” underneath the differential on the outside of the housing with a marker. Otherwise it’s easy to get the 2 axles confused during the build.

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That completes step 2.

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For step 3 I will be adding a few option parts, like aluminum C-hubs, knuckles and 3x10mm M3 screws, instead of the self tapping plastic screws. When you upgrade to the aluminum C-hubs the self tapping screws can no longer be used, since the C’s are tapped for M3 hardware.

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Slide the axle C’s into place, again note the direction in the manual.

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Insert the self tapping screws into the C-hubs.

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Install the 5×11 bearings into the ends of the axle tubes.

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Next step may seem off, but squirt a dab of Loctite on the flats of the axle shafts before installing them in the housing. This is done to minimize the slop between the locker and axle shafts.

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Slide the CVD axles into place.

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Now it’s time to prep the aluminum knuckles.

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Install the required bearings.

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Insert the flange pipes into the knuckles, slide the knuckles over the outer stub axles and install the 3x10mm M3 screws.

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Repeat the last few steps for the opposite side of the front axle. and Step 3 is done.

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Onto the rear housing, everything needed laid out for ease of assembly.

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Again add a dab of Loctite to the axle shaft flats before installing them. Slide the two 5×11 bearings into place and insert the rear straight axles into the housing.

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Slide the plastic lockouts into place and attach using the supplied hardware.

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Moving on to step 5, and the front axle. First thing I did was install the M3 set screws into the bottom of the axle housing.

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Grab the proper plastic axle truss and set it into place on top of the front housing.

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Attach the truss with the supplied hardware.

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Next we will attach the link/shock mounts. For this step I found the best way to get the Nylock nuts seated into the link/shock mounts was to use a small pick tool. Slide the Nylock nut onto the end of the pick, insert the nut into the link/shock mount, then twist and pull the pick out. The nut should stay seated in place.

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Attach the link/shock mounts with the supplied M3X16mm screws. Note the direction of these as well, they can be bolted on upside down by accident with ease.

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Repeat the last couple steps to finish off the rear axle. Both axles completed.

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That takes care of the first few steps in this build covering the axles. Next step will be shock build up and tuning.

Axial Wraith Kit Build Series

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4

Step 5

Step 6

Step 7

The AXIAL Geocache #1 – Found!

Axial Geocache #1-2011

Congratulations to Bob Hodges of Yucaipa, CA. for finding the first ever Axial Geocache #1

Axial Geocache #1 Finder Bob Hodges

Bob found Axial Geocache #1 on April 14th, 2011 at 2:30 pm. There had been other attempts made to find the Geocache, including some in the dark. Bob was the man in finding this cache and it was his first ever Geocache find. Not only did Bob find the Axial AX20024 Standard Socket Driver Set  and he also found some Axial Swag. By reporting back to us that he did find the Axial Geocache #1, we have also sent him a full set (6pcs) of Axial Metric Socket Drive Tips (4.5mm, 5mm, 5.5mm, 6mm, 7mm, 8mm).

Here are a few pics from his find:

Axial Geocache #1 Finder Bob Hodges
Axial Geocache #1 Finder Bob Hodges
Axial Geocache #1 Finder Bob Hodges
Axial Geocache #1 Finder Bob Hodges

Axial Geocahe #1 Original Post:

In our attempt to start a fun new GeoCache program, we put together a little package at the disclosed location below:

If you happen to be out and about scouting new places to run your rig, maybe you are in the neighborhood…

Here is the GPS Coordinate for the first ever Axialcache.
N34 23.230 W116 31.918 (it works dropped into googlemaps)

This cache is located off of Boone Rd in Johnson Valley OHV on the way to the famous Hammers Trails location or Means Dry Lake.

There is a rock pile off to the right side while driving North East on Boone Rd towards Means Dry Lake.

Once you find the box – What we want from you:

Name / Address / Email / phone

Photo of you and your Axial rig at the GeoCache site

Time / Date of when you found the AXL GeoCache site

What you get, if you do the above:

More prizes on top of the prize you will find!

PS: Photo above, think KOH and you are standing on it…

HINT #2
AXIAL GEOCACHE #1
AXIAL GEOCACHE #1
AXIAL GEOCACHE #1