Have you ever heard the saying that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure? This is profoundly true when it comes to RC. A little prevention–a quick once over, really–will go a long way towards ensuring nothing goes wrong when you least want it to. Here are the items you’ll want to quickly check before hitting the trail.
It seems simple, but many people only tighten the nuts holding their wheels when doing maintenance that requires removing and reinstalling the wheels. Don’t wait until doing something where you have to take the wheels off to make sure they are properly tightened. Loose wheels can lead to ruined drive hexes and wheels.
The wiring on your Axial Racing vehicle needs to be secure. Cable tires should be used to make sure wires are kept away from moving and hot components such as driveshafts and the motor. While the wires should be kept slightly loose to allow for movement as the chassis twists, the wires shouldn’t be too loose that they can rub on obstacles that rise up into the chassis or get snagged on branches. Notice that the SCX10 is equipped with clips on the side of the chassis to keep the wires out of harm’s way and still allow the wires to move as needed.
Gears and Slipper
While a visual check is best, taking the gear cover off can take more time than you’d like. The best tool for a pre-run gearing check is your ear. Hold your Axial vehicle while applying a small amount of throttle. Listen carefully for any grinding noise or anything but smooth gear engagement. Any excessive noise can mean there is debris in the teeth of the gears, a gear is damaged, or the gear mesh is off.
The slipper clutch is a wear item. Check to make sure that it hasn’t loosened. Occasionally after extreme use, a tighter setting will be needed to achieve the same results as when the parts are brand new. For complete maintenance, the parts (specifically the slipper pad AX30412) can be cleaned and replaced as needed, but before a run, slightly tightening the retaining nut can restore the desired amount of slip. A slipper that is too loose will often make a noticeable squeal. Only tighten the nut if you notice slippage. If the slipper is too tight, it won’t be able to protect your drivetrain.
Check for excessive buildup of grime on the shocks. Examine the shock caps and the bottom of the shock body. Dirt will naturally be attracted to these areas, especially where the shaft exits the shock body, but an excessive amount of accumulation can indicate a shock that has leaked out too much oil. A quick refill will most likely get you through the day, but a shock rebuild may be needed soon.
Before a run, quickly go through the vehicle and look for loose hardware. Check the steering knuckles where they attach to the axle C ends. Check the set screws for the driveshafts. Also, check where the C ends attach to the front axle tubes. Don’t over-tighten the hardware. You only need to make sure the screws are properly snug and aren’t loose.
Don’t let transmitter batteries die at the worst time possible. Check and replace them before you go out. Axial transmitters use state-of-the-art 2.4GHz that has low current draw and only requires four AA batteries, so the batteries last a long time.
The Axial WB8 Wild Boar driveshafts are extremely strong and one of the most advanced designs offered, but they still must be periodically checked. Examine that the end pieces haven’t loosened and check that the splines have been twisted.
Whether you use bead locks or glued tires on your Axial, check the beads on all four tires to make sure they are attached properly. If a bead lock has pulled apart, you will need to completely remove the retaining ring and reassemble. Glued tires can be re-glued with RC specific CA glue after being thoroughly cleaned with a cleaner such as rubbing alcohol.