Fitting 2.2 Ripsaw tires on your SCX10

Ever since we posted the sneak peek video of our new 2.2 Ripsaw tires, we’ve been getting a lot of questions on fitting 2.2 tires onto our SCX10 line of trucks. Bolting the 2.2 tires and wheels up to the truck isn’t all that difficult, but you will have issues with tires rubbing the bumpers and body. A little trim job to the bumpers and body will fix that though, and give your scale truck a little more aggressive look. For this article I am going to use our RTR SCX10 Honcho. I chose the Honcho because it has a little longer wheelbase then the Dingo TR, which will fit the 2.2 tires and wheels better. The Honcho will be the easiest to modify too, because you will only have to modify the front bumper and body.

Here’s how the Honcho looked before I got started:

Here’s a few side by side pictures of the two tires:



Here you can see this same Honcho with the 2.2 Ripsaw tires and wheels mounted, before I started cutting:



Here are a few more photos highlighting the problem areas. Notice the 2.2 tire hitting the body and front bumper way before the suspension bottoms out:



First thing we are going to do is remove the front bumper and cut it back so the tires clear it as the suspension cycles. Start by removing the center skid plate from the front bumper:

Now remove the lights from the front bumper, and pull it off your truck:

After removing the bumper, take the remaining 2 skid plates out of the bumper as well. Here you can see that I will cut along the edge of the bumper in the area highlighted by my hex driver:

After I cut the wings off I used an X-acto knife to smooth everything out:

Reinstall the bumper, lights and center skid:

Here you can see the tires clear the bumper with ease now, even when the suspension cycles:

Now, with the body on the chassis, we can check to see how much cutting it’ll take to clear the tires:

Next, I laid the cut line out on the body with a black marker, so it’s easier to visualize the final cut:

Cut the body a little less then you think you’ll need, and recheck to see if anything is still rubbing:

Here you can see the tire is still hitting the body just a little:

This is how it will looks after the final trim is done:

Now repeat the last few steps for the other side of the body:


And you’re done and ready for fun!

Overall stance after being chopped:

While this Honcho may not look as scale as it used to, the capabilities gained will far outweigh the slight loss in scale appearance.

43 thoughts on “Fitting 2.2 Ripsaw tires on your SCX10

  1. This looks so awesome. I’ve been wanting to get the Honcho too and this will defiantly make me want to get it.

  2. how much weight needs to be added in the front and rear of the tires to make it handle properly with this modification

  3. thanks for the instruction. it helps explaining to our members that it is ok to cut the bumper. Haha.
    The sad thing for now, this tires not yet available at our place or any the known hobbyshop. We just can’t wait.

    • I didn’t change the gearing on this Honcho, it still works great. For better low speed crawling though, you could go to a smaller pinion.

  4. When do these tires come out, what rims are they mounted on, and does it still crawl just as good with stock gearing?

    • They are already out. These wheels are Axial’s 8 hole beadlock wheels. It still works great with the stock gearing too.

  5. When will these bo on the shelfs at the hobby shops do you have a part # available or did i miss something

  6. Why couldn’t you move the bumper forward instead of cutting it? It has adjustment holes.

    • I could have moved it forward, but the tires would still hit. And it would have killed my approach angle. So, cutting is the best option in my opinion.

  7. What about the Dingo and whould it be worth it or should i just stick with the 1.9 tires.

    • I would probably stick with 1.9′s on the Dingo, unless you stretch the wheelbase. Not saying you can’t bolt them up to a Dingo, but the tires are big for that wheelbase.

  8. i think this set up looks good. i think it could still be considered scale because (if)
    roughly the stock tires look like 37 inch tires than the 2.2 look like 46 inch–49 inch or 54 inch scale–because a lot of guys are putiing bigger tires on there real 4×4′s–lokks like a great snow or mud setup..what do you think??

  9. I moved my shocks to the lower hoop mount on the frame. It gave me all the clearance you need. The driveline angle is bad, but I put longer links in on the upper 4 link and it corrected it.

  10. Hey i’ve ran 2.2′s before and these look REALLY good and scale compared to the other 2.2′s… one question however exactly how much extra clearance are we talking here?

  11. that is so cool it makes the honcho look like a beast, i just have one question, with cutting the bumper the way you did how badly if you know will it effect the weight distribution.

  12. hey i just ordered these and i cant wait to see’em on there i am very excited
    you guys are the beast RC company I’ve ever heard of in my opinion

  13. will the 2.2s rub the suspention links?..also,could you just add a 4 inch shock?..and if i added a 4 inch shock would i have to get new suspention links?

    • The tires shouldn’t rub the links, unless you have CVD’s and a lot of steering. A 4 inch shock can work, but it’ll make the suspension geometry a little weird. It may not flex as well after the shock swap.

  14. I have a scx10 honcho. Can i use the same wheels with the 2.2 you have to use different wheels when you go to a 2.2 tire

  15. What is the part number of the tires and wheels? I think the tires part number is AX12015 and the wheel is AX98018 is this right?
    Thanks and God Bless Johnny333
    65++ and starting to crawl

    • Correct the 2.2 Ripsaws are part # AX12015. The 2.2 eight hole beadlock wheels are available in a few different colors, white is part # AX8096, black is part # AX8097, satin chrome is part # AX8098, and black chrome is part # AX8099.

    • Make sure your gear mesh is tight enough, you shouldn’t have any issues if the gear mesh is set properly. With the motor loose, insert a piece of paper between your spur gear and pinion, then tighten up the gear mesh and snug up the motor screws.

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