Battery Endurance Test – Maximize Your Drive Time

 

tech_aa_radio_battery_overview_500px

What is the best battery? We spend so long in the hobby trying to answer that question ourselves along with seeking opinions on the subject from others. When talking batteries, most people go right to the battery used in the vehicle. But what about the forgotten batteries, the batteries that are essential to making it all happen. Those batteries are the radio batteries and their often just tossed into the radio and forgotten about until we hear lots of beeping to indicate its time for a battery charge or swap. But why not get more out of these batteries too? Wouldn’t it be better if you got more time on the trails rather than spending time trying to figure out if you need new radio batteries? Or perhaps worse, your batteries go dead on the trail leaving you to haul your rig back home by hand.

Battery Test

In this battery discussion, we’re going to look at the popular available options for radio batteries, determining what is the best value and what will give you the best bang for your buck. After All, the longer you’re on the trails, the more time you can spend taking photos and posting them to your social media pages with the hashtag #AxialAdventures.

 

Alkaline

Alkaline AA

These are the most readily available batteries for your transmitter. Alkalines can be found at just about every store you walk into and hobby stores as well. Like any device you install them in, you pull them from the package, install them, use them and toss them in the battery bin at the nearest recycling center when you are done. These cells can last several few months depending on how often you use your RC machine.
EXAMPLE SHOWN:
Brand: Duratrax/ Onyx
Voltage: 1.5V
Average Capacity (at 50mA Drain): 1800-2600mAh
Rechargeable: No

Nickle Metal Hydrid

NiMh AA
Nickel Metal Hydrid, now this may be a battery chemistry more familiar to many RC folk. This battery type is used to power many ready to run vehicles as it’s main battery, just in a series of sub-C size cells which are larger than the cells above. But they are the same basic concept, an easy to use, easy and safe rechargeable cell that you can use over and over, sometimes up to several years. You can find these batteries in various capacities and the price may increase depending on the performance of the cell. You’ll need a NiMh compatible charger to recharge these batteries and they are available in different capacities. These batteries can offer consistent operation, but eventually their performance can diminish and you may notice their capacity can lessen over time.
EXAMPLE SHOWN:
Brand: EBL
Voltage: 1.2V
Capacity: 2800mAh
Rechargeable: Yes

Lithium

Lithium AA

Lithium Polymer technology has made its way into an AA sized cell. LiPo cells are known for delivering consistent power through their use and they can be recharged. During their cycle life they will maintain consistency capacity output right up until they reach the end of their life cycle. Life cycle times can vary depending on the cell. Although they cost more than the others in this blog, they are the most powerful rechargeable cell. Depending on the brand you get, charging styles can vary. The cells above are charged by mini-usb style plugs with the included USB cord adapter.
EXAMPLE SHOWN:
Brand: Creative Standard Battery
Voltage: 1.5V
Capacity: 1250mAh
Rechargeable: Yes

 

Lithium Polymer

LiPo AA

Lithium Polymer technology has made its way into an AA sized cell. LiPo cells are known for delivering consistent power through their use and of course they can be recharged. During their cycle life they will maintain consistency capacity output right up until they reach the end of their life cycle. Life cycle times can vary depending on the cell. Although they cost more than the others in this blog, they are a powerful rechargeable cell. Depending on the brand you get, charging styles can vary. The cells above are charged by mini-usb style plugs with the included USB cord adapter.
EXAMPLE SHOWN:
Brand: Creative Standard Battery
Voltage: 1.5V
Capacity: 1250mAh
Rechargeable: Yes

WHAT TO USE
Obviously the more economical choice over the long haul is to utilize a rechargeable battery. A great choice is the NiMh cell that offers consistent performance and long usage. The LiPo battery cost is slightly higher and depending on the cell can have a capacity near many NiMh offerings, but where the LiPo shines is if you are looking for a higher power output on the cell; 1.5 volts versus the NiMh 1.2 volts. Now if you’re an install a battery and toss it (recycle it) when it’s done type driver, the Lithium is a great choice, they’re more expensive than the Alkaline battery, but performance and longevity are the winning factors here. And in the end, don’t knock the Alkaline cells. These things can be snatched up at just about any store and they work, they work well. Just don’t leave them in a radio if you store it for a long time. A leaky Alkaline cell is not pretty.

 

Suspension Link Types Explained

Suspension_LinkTypes

There is no shortage of suspension design types in the RC world, but for trail trucks and other off-road adventure vehicles, one of the most preferred suspension styles is the link type. Links are typically a long fixed plastic bar or long metal rod with ball-ends on each end that stretch from points on the chassis to the trucks axle. Sounds pretty simple right? There is a bit more to it. There are several link set-up types and Axial vehicles such as the SCX10 and SCX10 II use different type of link setups. There are three different designs used; a 3-Link, 4-Link and a 3-Link with panhard bar setup. Here we’ll go over what each style looks like and their performance attributes.

3-LINK

A 3-Link suspension setup can commonly be found on the front of the SCX10 platform. Two lower links, one on each side, span from the skid to the lower axle tubes. The third link is located up higher to secure the axle from rotating. Here an upper Y-link is used for the third link. It mounts to the frame and spans to a single center point/ mount on the top of the axle.

3-Link Suspension

A 3-Link setup rotates the axle around the moving vertical pivot during articulation and can result in some axle sway.

4-LINK

The 4-Link design is similar to the 3-Link in regard to how the lower links span from the skid-plate to the axle housings in a triangulated format. However the top link is slightly different. The top utilizes two links that span from the inner frame to two pivot points on the top of the axle in the center.

4-Link

The 4-Link suspension design moves in a much linear path than the 3-Link and results in less axle sway, steer and reduces the effects of torque twist.

3-LINK W/ PANHARD

Now, are you ready for the description of a 3-Link with panhard bar? Brace yourselves, it’s actually made up of 4-Links. It’s similar to a “4-Link design” but with one upper link purposely missing. So if you’re one of those people who have opened your kit and said to yourself; Hey a link is missing, it’s not supposed to be there. To prevent the axle from shifting in this style of suspension design, a “panhard” bar is used; the fourth link. A panhard bar runs from the frame perpendicular to the other links and mates up with a mounting boss on the axle carrier.

3-Link With Panhard

This suspension setup offers smooth linear articulation without the axle sway associated with a 3-Link system.

LINK TECH

Although we’ve discussed the different type of link designs in a simple format, there is a bit more to it such as anti-squat, roll center, anti-dive and other tuning options that further differentiate each, but that is for another discussion. The style of links found on your specific SCX10 model are there by design to deliver articulation for optimum performance.

How To: Power Your Axial LED Lights

HowToPowerYour_Axial_LED_Lights

Lighting in a scale truck is pretty much mandatory nowadays. The new Jeep Rubicon Unlimited CRC and Honcho both feature factory equipped lights and the new AE5-L speed control to power the lights. However, if you don’t have one of those specific models, there are still plenty of optional LED lights available from the Axial line-up to customize your specific trail rig. Like many LED light sets on the market, each set has their own designated use and may need specific power setups in order for them to work properly. In this Axial LED overview, we’re going to take a look at the individual light sets and appropriate power sources and controllers so you know what is compatible when going to equip your rig with lights.

SET OPTIONS

NVS

NVS – Night Visions System
Part- AX24251
The NVS kit gives you everything you need to give your rig a full custom lit look. Headlights, tail lights, marker lights and most importantly a power and control module. This system comes with the power module that will provide the correct power for the included LED light strings. Power to the module is provided by an in-line adapter that goes between the battery and ESC.

POWERED BY: Included in-line adapter (Note: Plugs may need to be exchanged depending on existing speed control and battery plug type)

AX24257
Simple LED Controller w/LED lights (4 white and 2 red)
Part- AX24257
This Simple LED Controller includes 4 bright white LED’s, AX24258, and 2 bright red LED’s, AX24253. Other light strands compatible with the controller are: AX24252, AX24253, AX24254, AX24255, AX24256, and AX24258. Controller can power two 2 or 4 LED Strings only.
POWERED BY: Open Receiver Port (CH 3, Aux, etc.)
NOTE: NOT COMPATIBLE WITH AE-5L ESC

STRING OPTIONS

8-String LED

8 LED Light String (White LED)
Part- AX31098
This light string works pefectly with the AX31152 Axial LED light bar or other custom applications. This specific light string requires the AX31097 3 port high output LED controller to power it.
NOTE: NOT COMPATIBLE WITH AE-5L ESC

Double LED Light String

Double LED Light String (White LEDs)
Part-  AX24252
The perfect LED set for headlights. This light string can only be powered by the Axial NVS – Night Visions System – AX24251  and/or Simple LED Controller- AX24257.
NOTE: NOT COMPATIBLE WITH AE-5L ESC

Double LED Light String (Red LED)

Double LED Light String (Red LED)
Part- AX24253
Often used for tail lights, the Double Red LED String must be used with Axial NVS – Night Visions System – AX24251 and/or Simple LED Controller- AX24257 installed for vehicles that do not include light strings.
NOTE: NOT COMPATIBLE WITH AE-5L ESC

Double LED Light String (Orange LED)

Double LED Light String (Orange LED)
Part- AX24254
Double Orange  LED light strings for turn signals; these are powered either by
the Axial NVS – Night Visions System – AX24251 and/or the Simple LED Controller- AX24257.
NOTE: NOT COMPATIBLE WITH AE-5L ESC

Single LED Light String (White LED)

Single LED Light String (White LED)
Part- AX24255
Additional/replacement LED light string. Must have Axial NVS – Night Visions System – AX24251 and/or Simple LED Controller- AX24257 installed for vehicles that do not include these light strings.
NOTE: NOT COMPATIBLE WITH AE-5L ESC

 

5 LED Light String (White LED)

5 LED Light String (White LED)
Part- AX24256
5 LED light string for auxiliary lights (White LED). Must have Axial NVS – Night Visions System – AX24251 and/or Simple LED Controller- AX24257 installed for vehicles that do not include these light strings.
NOTE: NOT COMPATIBLE WITH AE-5L ESC

AX24258

4 LED Light String (White LED)
Part- AX24258
Must have Axial NVS – Night Visions System – AX24251 and/or Simple LED Controller- AX24257 installed for vehicles that do not include these light strings.
NOTE: NOT COMPATIBLE WITH AE-5L ESC

POWER CONTROL

3-port controller
3 Port High Output LED Controller
Part- AX31097
Compatible with Axial’s 8 LED string (AX31098) in the HO port. A 2 or 4 LED string can run off of the two additonal ports. This light controller fills the gap between the basic simple LED kit (AX24257) and the full blown Night Vision System (AX24251). It has the ability to power 3 separate LED strings and Includes harness extension for removing the body.
NOTE: NOT COMPATIBLE WITH AE-5L ESC or 5-LED String AX24256

ACCESSORY SETS

Universal 5 Bucket Light Bar Set
Part- AX30709
Axial’s new Universal 5 Bucket Light Bar Set comes with a complete set of screws and plastic parts designed for a variety of Axial vehicles as well as a universal system for additional mounting applications. The light bar’s tubular design gives your vehicle cool scale looks and each light bucket can be outfitted with an LED light to help guide the way on those late night runs (LED lights sold separately).The set also includes three different mesh grilles for your lights: plain, Axial and officially licensed PIAA grill covers. PIAA is a registered trademark of PIAA Corporation.

Options:
AX24251 – NVS Night Vision System with LED lights
AX24257 – Simple LED controller with LED lights
AX24256 – Axial 5 LED light string

Universal Rigid Light Bar Set
Axial LED light bar, officially licensed by Rigid Industries!
Part- AX31152

This molded plastic housing includes three different length light bars, hardware, universal mounting brackets, clear LED lenses and Instructions. For use with optional AX31098 8 LED Light String (White LED) and AX31097 3 Port High Output LED Controller.

Light Bucket Set (Black)

Light Bucket Set
Part- AX80045
Get custom and add lights where you want to. This set includes seven different styles of light buckets with plastic lenses in clear and yellow to hold 5mm and 3mm LED lights.

POWER SOURCES

Now that we have some of your options out of the way it’s time to talk about where to tap into the power on your rig in order to light up those LED’s

Receiver Power- Units like the 3 Port High Output LED Controller can be powered from the receiver. A extension plug is provided to plug into any open port on the receiver. Be aware that the receivers voltage may be regualted and may not power the controller correctly. As a result the lights may appear dim. In this case you may need to direct wire the controller.

Direct Power- The NVS includes an adapter to receive power directly from your rigs main battery. This ensures the unit receives the voltage necessary to light up the LED’s. Direct power connections is another way of hooking up other controllers or LED systems to power the LED’s. To do this, an extension wire needs to be soldered to the positive and negative battery wire solder posts, or wires, or connectors on the ESC. Now, when you plug in your battery, your LED lights will instantly illuminate unless you decide to solder in an in-line switch as well.

Even with all of the information above, your personal alterations to your electronics may have an effect on your LED lighting. Other factors can include battery voltage. When making changes to your vehicle beyond what is described, be aware that additional testing may need to take place in order to make your system work properly.

LED Light How To

 

Schultz Lab Magnetic Body Mounting How To

SecureABodyWithMagnets

Strange things happen in the mind of John Schultz and many times there are some great results from those endless random thoughts. Sure, you may have heard of his epic trail builds at Axialfest, but a recent mind melt session in the Schultz Lab yielded a great how to on setting up your body for a super scale look using magnets to secure the shell. Photos were pinched, helpful tips jotted down and we’re going to pass along the information so you can mount your next body sans body clips.
Axial Body Mount 2

STEP 1
Axial Body Mount 5

First things first. Don’t drill any body mounting holes in your freshly painted body. Place the body on your rig and get a feel for where it needs to be positioned.

STEP 2
Axial Body Mount 3

You’ll need to determine where the magnets need to be placed on the inside of the body. There are several ways to do this. Some people put a small dot of paint on the top of the body posts or some black marker so it transfers to the body to designate the body mount locations. John Shultz uses a dab of peanut butter and then eats the rest of the jar. Some bodies do have dimples molded in the body to identify the mounting points and these can of course be used too.

STEP 3
Axial Body Mount 4

If you do use peanut butter, er um, marker to transfer your body mount points, press down firmly to transfer the “substance” to the body.

STEP 4
Axial Body Mount 10

Now it’s time to find some magnets that can be used to secure the body. John found these 1/2″ x 1/4″ x 1/8″ Neodymium Ring Magnets that fit perfectly on the SCX10 II body posts.

STEP 5
Axial Body Mount 11

Once you’re satisfied with the fit of the magnets on the posts, place a small amount of 5-minute 2-part epoxy to the base of the body mounts and slide the magnets onto the posts.

STEP 6
Axial Body Mount 12

Once the epoxy has cured, use a pair of side cutters to cut the top of the post off so it will allow the magnet, that will be secured to the body, to sit on the post magnet.

STEP 7
Axial Body Mount 9

Now it’s time to secure the magnets to the body. Use the epoxy to secure the magnets to the body. Make certain that the mark you made on the body in STEPS 2 & 3 is in the center of the magnet holes. Use some packing tape to help secure the magnets while the epoxy dries. This is a critical step. You don’t want the magnets to move and then the epoxy dries and you have no way to move the mount. A magnet that moves during this step will most likely result in the body not sitting properly on the chassis.

Axial Body Mount 15

Here you can see the magnets epoxied to the roof which was done prior to John installing his interior. Once the epoxy has dried on all of the magnets, you’re ready to drop the body on your chassis with the ease of magnets holding it in place. Not only will the body be held firmly in place, but it also looks much more scale without body posts and its super easy to take the body off for battery swaps or turning the truck on and off.

INTERIOR TIP
Axial Body Mount 6

You may have noticed in some photos that an interior was installed in the 2017 Jeep® Wrangler Unlimited CRC body. To do this, John took a 2012 Jeep® Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon Body and cut the exterior off, leaving just the interior and roll cage to secure to the new Jeep Wrangler Unlimited body. The result of course is a more scale looking rig to hit the trails with.

 

SCALE IT UP
With just a little bit of modeling skill, some standard shop tools and some magnets that can be found anywhere online, you can increase the scale look of your machine, while making the chassis easily accessible. It might even become something you’ll want to build a shrine for…

Axial Body Mount 18

 

 

Maintain Your Driveline After Winter Weather Driving

HowTo_Winter_DrivelineMaintenance2

Just because it’s cold, wet, snowy, icy and sometimes just miserable weather doesn’t stop the majority of Axial drivers from getting their RC drive on. All of those conditions can translate to a lot of fun, cool photos and great stories to talk to your trail buddies about. But after your four-wheeling trek across the frozen tundra of your backyard or weather beaten nearby park, you need to give your machine a little TLC in order for it to continue to run at optimum performance. Here we’ll go over the key areas to focus on to check and maintain.

Snow 1

WHAT TO AVOID
Before we dip into the checks and techniques to maintaining your machine, there is one running situation we’d suggest you avoid when running your car in snowy conditions. This harmful situation for your machine is running in an area where salts and chemicals have been used to melt the snow. Sure a slushy parking lot four-wheel drive donut session sounds fun, but the salts or other ice melting chemicals mixed in with that slush can accelerate the corrosion of metal parts and even eat away at some finished plastics. Try to stay away from the tempting slush slides and if you do push the limits and put your rig through a salt bath, be certain to follow the cleaning and maintenance steps we’re about to outline.

MIND YOUR METALS
There is one thing to remember when running in any type of wet conditions, water goes anywhere it wants. So when running in water, your hardware, screws, nuts, pins, bearings, shafts, any metals are subject to getting wet and rusting or corroding. Each and every metal on your car should be inspected and addressed if necessary in order to prevent a problem.

Snow 2

HOW TO MAINTAIN A WET RIG
WD40
One of the first things many suggest to do to an RC car that is covered in water is to immediately spray as many metal parts and hardware as possible with WD-40 to combat any corrosion that is immediately setting in. Although WD-40 is known as a rust inhibitor, it should not be your only mode of defence. If possible, you should also blow your rig off with air, blow every last little area on the machine, an air compressor with some decent pressure would be the best here, but smaller blowers or in the worst case, a hair dryer would work too.

KEY COMPONENTS TO ADDRESS
Screw rust
Hardware- Screws, nuts, pins, screw pins and so on are obvious. However you can live it a little rust on these, there won’t be any performance or wear issue if most of these are not treated. The few items to watch though are the screws and sleeves in caster blocks. Rust here may cause issues later. Axle shafts are another area. Rust can build up and often make it difficult to remove from support bearings.

Universals
Universals- If your rig is equipped with universal driveshafts in the front axles, do yourself a favor and keep them dry and lube them or WD-40 them after wet use. It is even a good idea to pick the rig up and give the vehicle some throttle while blowing off the components or spraying them with a rust inhibitor to get water out and get the inhibitor into the moving parts. Water sitting in there will cause rust later. Your universal joints in your rigs center shafts should get the same treatment.

rust
Bearings- Getting water out of your bearings is no easy task. If you submerge your rig, water will get in the bearings. Do your best to blow out the bearings with air, blast them with an cleaning spray like a motor spray and then with WD-40. Picking your vehicle up off the ground and running your driveline to help expel water is a good idea too. Once you feel you’ve done your best to get the water out, use a micro oiler to re-oil the bearings.
Bearing

Gears
Gears- Depending on the gears you use, metal or aluminum, are subject to problems caused by water. Use a paper towel or any of the previously mentioned methods to dry them off and then be sure to coat them with a generous amount of grease for extra protection.

ADDITIONAL TIPS
Yes, this blog is about your driveline, but we want you to know everything…
Electronics- Just because your electronics are weather-proof, water-resistant and whatever doesn’t mean you should put them away wet. It’s always a good practice to dry them off with towels or compressed air just as a extra precautionary measure to make certain nothing happens to these expensive components.
Tire foams- If your tires are vented and you’ve run in water, you need to do your best to get the water out. If you are running beadlocks, it would be best to pull your rims apart, take the foam out and dry them off by compressing them in dry towels. If your tries have been glued to the rims, try squeezing as much water out as possible and place the tire in a warm place to allow water to evaporate. If the hole in the tire can be place down, do so so water can drain out of the tire.
Batteries- If your battery gets wet, take the time to shake out any water and blow off water with compressed air. Always use caution when handling batteries.

Snow 3

IS IT WORTH IT
No doubt driving in wintry wet weather is fun, but proper maintenance afterward is time consuming. If you’re the type that loves maintenance or doesn’t mind the work after the occasional slush splash, then go for it, have fun. The worst case is, you may need to replace your bearings with a new set from Axial or a trusted bearing supplier like Team Fast Eddy Bearings. If rusty screws are not your thing, you can take a look at aftermarket screw sets like those from Team KNK. Keep an eye on those driveshafts and gears, they are a more costly item to replace. Take the time to maintain your rig and it will last you a long time, no matter what type of environment you run it in.

Axial LCX Transmission Parts List

 

lcx-transmission-break-down

Found in: SCX10 II CRC Edition 2017 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited

Stock Gearing
LCX: 32P 13T Pinion / 56T Spur Gear

Axial LCX Tranmission Parts List

Gearing Chart

32 Pitch (Stock Gearing AX30392 or AX30395)

_
Spur Gear

Pinion
56
60
64
68
11
38.69
41.45
44.22
46.98
12
35.47
38.00
40.53
43.07
13
32.74
35.08
37.42
39.75
14
30.40
32.57
34.74
36.91
15
28.37
30.40
32.43
34.45
16
26.60
28.50
30.40
32.30
17
25.04
26.82
28.61
30.40

32 Pitch (Overdrive Gearing AX30401)

_
Spur Gear

Pinion
56
60
64
68
11
34.04
36.47
38.90
41.33
12
31.20
33.43
35.66
37.89
13
28.80
30.86
32.91
34.97
14
26.74
28.65
30.56
32.47
15
24.96
26.74
28.53
30.31
16
23.40
25.07
26.74
28.41
17
22.02
23.60
25.17
26.74

32 Pitch (Underdrive Gearing AX30402)

_
Spur Gear

Pinion
56
60
64
68
11
43.78
46.91
50.04
53.16
12
40.13
43.00
45.87
48.73
13
37.05
39.69
42.34
44.98
14
34.40
36.86
39.31
41.77
15
32.11
34.40
36.69
38.99
16
30.10
32.25
34.40
36.55
17
28.33
30.35
32.38
34.40

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AXIAL LCX TRANSMISSION PARTS LIST

AXA0023 M2.6x8mm Cap Head Screw
AXA013 M2x6mm Cap Head Screw
AXA1045 M4 Nylon Locking Flanged Nuts
AXA1218 Bearing 5x10x4mm
AXA1225 Bearing 8x16x5mm
AX30162 Straight Pin
AX30394 20T Drive Gear
AX30413 Slipper Spring
AX30435 Steel Outdrive Shaft Set
AX30190 Shaft
AXA146 M3x12mm Socket Head Screw
AX31026 Slipper Plate
AX31027 Spur Gear 32P 56T
AX31068 Slipper Pad
AX31531 LCX Transmission Case
AX31539 LCX Top Shaft (Coming Soon)
AX31585 Gear Set (48P 28T/ 48P 52T)

Axial Yeti / RR10 Transmission Parts List

Axial Yeti / RR10 Bomber Tranmission Break Down

Found in: YETI SCORE TROPHY TRUCK / YETI / RR10 BOMBER

Stock Gearing
Yeti: 32P 16T Pinion / 64T Spur Gear
Yeti SCORE Trophy Truck: 32P 16T Pinion / 64T Spur Gear
RR10 Bomber: 32P 12T Pinion / 64T Spur Gear

Axial Transmission Guide - RR10 BomberTransmission

Gearing Chart

32 Pitch (Stock Gearing AX30392 or AX30395)

_
Spur Gear

Pinion
56
60
64
68
11
28.85
30.91
32.97
35.03
12
26.44
28.33
30.22
32.11
13
24.41
26.15
27.90
29.64
14
22.67
24.28
25.90
27.52
15
21.15
22.67
24.18
25.69
16
19.83
21.25
22.67
24.08
17
18.67
20.00
21.33
22.67

32 Pitch (Overdrive Gearing AX30401)

_
Spur Gear

Pinion
56
60
64
68
11
25.38
27.19
29.00
30.81
12
23.26
24.92
26.58
28.25
13
21.47
23.01
24.54
26.07
14
19.94
21.36
22.79
24.21
15
18.61
19.94
21.27
22.60
16
17.45
18.69
19.94
21.18
17
16.42
17.59
18.77
19.94

32 Pitch (Underdrive Gearing AX30402)

_
Spur Gear

Pinion
56
60
64
68
11
25.38
34.97
37.31
39.64
12
29.92
32.06
34.20
36.33
13
27.62
29.59
31.57
33.54
14
25.65
27.48
29.31
31.14
15
23.94
25.65
27.36
29.07
16
22.44
24.04
25.65
27.25
17
21.12
22.63
24.14
25.65

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AXIAL YETI SCORE TROPHY TRUCK / YETI / RR10 BOMBER

AXA0413 M2.6x8mm Hex Screws
AXA1045 M4 Nylon Locking Hex Nuts
AXA1221 Bearing 5x11x4mm
AXA1391 E4 E-clips
AXA144 M3x8mm Flat Head Screws
AXA0147 M3x16mm Flat Head Screws
AXA148 M3x18mm Flat Head Screws
AXA150 M3x25mm Flat Head Screws
AX30163 Pin 2.0x10mm
AX30413 Slipper Spring
AX31059 Slipper Plate Washer
AX31065 Spur Gear 23P 64T
AX31067 Slipper Plate
AX31068 Slipper Pads
AX31106 2-Speed Hi/Lo Transmission Motor Mount
AX31107 2-Speed Hi/Lo Transmission Spur Gear Cover
AX31108 2-Speed Hi/Lo Transmission Case
AX31127 2-Speed Hi/Lo Transmission Top Shaft
AX31129 2-Speed Hi/Lo Transmission Bottom Shaft
AX31130 High Speed Transmission Gear Set
AX31131 T-Case Gear Set
AX31180 Aluminum Spur Gear Spacer
AX31313 Transfer Case Output Shaft
AX31324 RR10 Transfer Case

Axial AX10™ Transmission Parts List

Axial AX10 Tranmission Break Down

A quick reference parts list for the Axial AX10™ Transmission.

Found in: AX10 / SCX10 / SCX10 II RTR / WRAITH / SMT10 3 GEAR TRANS

Stock Gearing
SCX10: 32P 13T Pinion / 56T Spur Gear
SCX10 II RTR: 32P 13T Pinion / 56T Spur Gear
Wraith: 32P 12T Pinion / 56T Spur Gear
SMT10: 32P 16T Pinion / 56T Spur Gear

Axial Transmission Guide - AX10 Transmission

Gearing Chart

32 Pitch (Stock Gearing AX30392 or AX30395)

_
Spur Gear

Pinion
56
60
64
68
11
38.69
41.45
44.22
46.98
12
35.47
38.00
40.53
43.07
13
32.74
35.08
37.42
39.75
14
30.40
32.57
34.74
36.91
15
28.37
30.40
32.43
34.45
16
26.60
28.50
30.40
32.30
17
25.04
26.82
28.61
30.40

32 Pitch (Overdrive Gearing AX30401)

_
Spur Gear

Pinion
56
60
64
68
11
34.04
36.47
38.90
41.33
12
31.20
33.43
35.66
37.89
13
28.80
30.86
32.91
34.97
14
26.74
28.65
30.56
32.47
15
24.96
26.74
28.53
30.31
16
23.40
25.07
26.74
28.41
17
22.02
23.60
25.17
26.74

32 Pitch (Underdrive Gearing AX30402)

_
Spur Gear

Pinion
56
60
64
68
11
43.78
46.91
50.04
53.16
12
40.13
43.00
45.87
48.73
13
37.05
39.69
42.34
44.98
14
34.40
36.86
39.31
41.77
15
32.11
34.40
36.69
38.99
16
30.10
32.25
34.40
36.55
17
28.33
30.35
32.38
34.40

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AXIAL AX10™ TRANSMISSION PARTS LIST

AX30487 Complete AX10 Transmission
AXA013 M2x6mm SH Screws
AXA089 M3x25mm SC Screws
AXA1045 M4 Nylon Lock Nuts
AXA1053 M3 Nylon Locking Hex Nuts
AXA1218 Bearing, 5x10x4mm (2 pkgs)
AXA1225 Bearing, 8x16x5mm
AX30162 Cross Pin
AX30190 Shaft 5x18mm
AX30394 20T Drive Gear
AX30413 Slipper Spring
AX30435 Steel Outdrive Set
AX30491 AX10 RTR Motor Plate
AX31026 Slipper Plate Washer
AX31027 Spur Gear 32P 56T
AX31068 Slipper Pad
AX31149 Slipper Drive Gear Shaft
AX80009 Transmission Set
AX80010 Gear Set
AX80078 Transmission Spur Gear Cover

Axial SCX10 II Transmission Parts List

Axial SCX10 II Tranmission Break Down

A quick reference parts list for the Axial SCX10 II Transmission.

Found in: SCX10 II Kit

Stock Gearing
SCX10 II: 32P 15T Pinion / 56T Spur Gear

Axial Transmission Guide - SCX10 II Transmission

Gearing Chart

32 Pitch (Stock Gearing AX31405)

_
Spur Gear

Pinion
56
60
64
68
11
66.18
N/A
N/A
N/A
12
60.67
N/A
N/A
N/A
13
56.00
N/A
N/A
N/A
14
52.00
N/A
N/A
N/A
15
48.53
N/A
N/A
N/A
16
45.50
N/A
N/A
N/A
17
42.82
N/A
N/A
N/A

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AXIAL SCX10 II TRANSMISSION PARTS LIST

AXA436 M3x12mm BH Hex Screw
AXA1218 Bearing, 5x10x4mm (2 pkgs)
AXA1221 Bearing, 5x11x4mm
AXA1225 Bearing, 8x16x5mm
AXA1243 Bearing, 15x21x4mm
AX30394 20T Drive Gear
AX30413 Slipper Spring
AX30435 Steel Outdrive Set
AX30491 AX10 RTR Motor Plate
AX31026 Slipper Plate Washer
AX31027 Spur Gear 32P 56T
AX31068 Slipper Pad
AX31149 Slipper Drive Gear Shaft
AX80010 Gear Set
AX80051 Dig Transmission Case
AX80078 Transmission Spur Gear Cover
AX80079 Wraith Tube Frame Skid Plate/ Battery Tray

Desert Turtle Racing’s RR10 Bomber

20171004_052111The Ultra4 Racing team of Desert Turtle Racing has a few Axial fans in their group. Myself, for one, just happens to be lucky enough to work for Axial. After attending AxialFest 2016 and competing in the Altra Ultra5k with a bone stock RR10 RTR, I was eager to build up my own RR10 in preparation for my next Altra Ultra5k. With a little downtime from working on the full-scale rig I was able to put together a DTR themed RR10 Bomber Chassis. The RR10 Kit has some awesome features and makes for a great starting platform. I opted to add some pretty cool option parts and electronics to give it a little extra kick.

In Ultra4 Racing, one of the must-have items is a 2-speed T-Case, giving this rig a little more realism. I added the Axial 2-Speed Transmission components to give the rig some great low-speed gearing and some “haul the mail” top end – all shiftable with the Tactic TTX300.

I added a few final touches to try and give it a bit more scale looks; ammo cans, painted fuel cell, fuel filler hose and some key interior stickers.

_MG_7878 _MG_7880 _MG_7882 _MG_7883 _MG_7884 _MG_7886 _MG_7888 _MG_7889 _MG_7891 _MG_7892 _MG_7895 _MG_7897 _MG_7898 _MG_7900 _MG_7901 _MG_7902 _MG_7903 _MG_7907 _MG_7908 20170824_173601 20170824_17364820171110_085516 20171004_052039 20171004_052100

Added option parts and electronics

Chassis: AX90053
Steering Hubs: AX30762
Steering Knuckle: AX31434
Front Diff Cover: AX31429
Rear Diff Cover: AX30829
Servo Mount: AX31432
Front Link Mounts: AX31433
Rear Link Mounts: AX31433
Spring Retainers: AX31431
Transmission: AX31181
Steering Servo: Hitec D951TW
Shifting Servo: Hitec HS-985MG
ESC: Tekin FX-R
Motor: Tekin T35 HD
BEC: MaxAmps
Battery: Onyx 11.1 5000mAh
Radio: Tactic TTX300

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