Maintain Your Driveline After Winter Weather Driving

HowTo_Winter_DrivelineMaintenance2

Just because it’s cold, wet, snowy, icy and sometimes just miserable weather doesn’t stop the majority of Axial drivers from getting their RC drive on. All of those conditions can translate to a lot of fun, cool photos and great stories to talk to your trail buddies about. But after your four-wheeling trek across the frozen tundra of your backyard or weather beaten nearby park, you need to give your machine a little TLC in order for it to continue to run at optimum performance. Here we’ll go over the key areas to focus on to check and maintain.

Snow 1

WHAT TO AVOID
Before we dip into the checks and techniques to maintaining your machine, there is one running situation we’d suggest you avoid when running your car in snowy conditions. This harmful situation for your machine is running in an area where salts and chemicals have been used to melt the snow. Sure a slushy parking lot four-wheel drive donut session sounds fun, but the salts or other ice melting chemicals mixed in with that slush can accelerate the corrosion of metal parts and even eat away at some finished plastics. Try to stay away from the tempting slush slides and if you do push the limits and put your rig through a salt bath, be certain to follow the cleaning and maintenance steps we’re about to outline.

MIND YOUR METALS
There is one thing to remember when running in any type of wet conditions, water goes anywhere it wants. So when running in water, your hardware, screws, nuts, pins, bearings, shafts, any metals are subject to getting wet and rusting or corroding. Each and every metal on your car should be inspected and addressed if necessary in order to prevent a problem.

Snow 2

HOW TO MAINTAIN A WET RIG
WD40
One of the first things many suggest to do to an RC car that is covered in water is to immediately spray as many metal parts and hardware as possible with WD-40 to combat any corrosion that is immediately setting in. Although WD-40 is known as a rust inhibitor, it should not be your only mode of defence. If possible, you should also blow your rig off with air, blow every last little area on the machine, an air compressor with some decent pressure would be the best here, but smaller blowers or in the worst case, a hair dryer would work too.

KEY COMPONENTS TO ADDRESS
Screw rust
Hardware- Screws, nuts, pins, screw pins and so on are obvious. However you can live it a little rust on these, there won’t be any performance or wear issue if most of these are not treated. The few items to watch though are the screws and sleeves in caster blocks. Rust here may cause issues later. Axle shafts are another area. Rust can build up and often make it difficult to remove from support bearings.

Universals
Universals- If your rig is equipped with universal driveshafts in the front axles, do yourself a favor and keep them dry and lube them or WD-40 them after wet use. It is even a good idea to pick the rig up and give the vehicle some throttle while blowing off the components or spraying them with a rust inhibitor to get water out and get the inhibitor into the moving parts. Water sitting in there will cause rust later. Your universal joints in your rigs center shafts should get the same treatment.

rust
Bearings- Getting water out of your bearings is no easy task. If you submerge your rig, water will get in the bearings. Do your best to blow out the bearings with air, blast them with an cleaning spray like a motor spray and then with WD-40. Picking your vehicle up off the ground and running your driveline to help expel water is a good idea too. Once you feel you’ve done your best to get the water out, use a micro oiler to re-oil the bearings.
Bearing

Gears
Gears- Depending on the gears you use, metal or aluminum, are subject to problems caused by water. Use a paper towel or any of the previously mentioned methods to dry them off and then be sure to coat them with a generous amount of grease for extra protection.

ADDITIONAL TIPS
Yes, this blog is about your driveline, but we want you to know everything…
Electronics- Just because your electronics are weather-proof, water-resistant and whatever doesn’t mean you should put them away wet. It’s always a good practice to dry them off with towels or compressed air just as a extra precautionary measure to make certain nothing happens to these expensive components.
Tire foams- If your tires are vented and you’ve run in water, you need to do your best to get the water out. If you are running beadlocks, it would be best to pull your rims apart, take the foam out and dry them off by compressing them in dry towels. If your tries have been glued to the rims, try squeezing as much water out as possible and place the tire in a warm place to allow water to evaporate. If the hole in the tire can be place down, do so so water can drain out of the tire.
Batteries- If your battery gets wet, take the time to shake out any water and blow off water with compressed air. Always use caution when handling batteries.

Snow 3

IS IT WORTH IT
No doubt driving in wintry wet weather is fun, but proper maintenance afterward is time consuming. If you’re the type that loves maintenance or doesn’t mind the work after the occasional slush splash, then go for it, have fun. The worst case is, you may need to replace your bearings with a new set from Axial or a trusted bearing supplier like Team Fast Eddy Bearings. If rusty screws are not your thing, you can take a look at aftermarket screw sets like those from Team KNK. Keep an eye on those driveshafts and gears, they are a more costly item to replace. Take the time to maintain your rig and it will last you a long time, no matter what type of environment you run it in.

Axial LCX Transmission Parts List

 

lcx-transmission-break-down

Found in: SCX10 II CRC Edition 2017 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited

Stock Gearing
LCX: 32P 13T Pinion / 56T Spur Gear

Axial LCX Tranmission Parts List

Gearing Chart

32 Pitch (Stock Gearing AX30392 or AX30395)

_
Spur Gear

Pinion
56
60
64
68
11
38.69
41.45
44.22
46.98
12
35.47
38.00
40.53
43.07
13
32.74
35.08
37.42
39.75
14
30.40
32.57
34.74
36.91
15
28.37
30.40
32.43
34.45
16
26.60
28.50
30.40
32.30
17
25.04
26.82
28.61
30.40

32 Pitch (Overdrive Gearing AX30401)

_
Spur Gear

Pinion
56
60
64
68
11
34.04
36.47
38.90
41.33
12
31.20
33.43
35.66
37.89
13
28.80
30.86
32.91
34.97
14
26.74
28.65
30.56
32.47
15
24.96
26.74
28.53
30.31
16
23.40
25.07
26.74
28.41
17
22.02
23.60
25.17
26.74

32 Pitch (Underdrive Gearing AX30402)

_
Spur Gear

Pinion
56
60
64
68
11
43.78
46.91
50.04
53.16
12
40.13
43.00
45.87
48.73
13
37.05
39.69
42.34
44.98
14
34.40
36.86
39.31
41.77
15
32.11
34.40
36.69
38.99
16
30.10
32.25
34.40
36.55
17
28.33
30.35
32.38
34.40

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AXIAL LCX TRANSMISSION PARTS LIST

AXA0023 M2.6x8mm Cap Head Screw
AXA013 M2x6mm Cap Head Screw
AXA1045 M4 Nylon Locking Flanged Nuts
AXA1218 Bearing 5x10x4mm
AXA1225 Bearing 8x16x5mm
AX30162 Straight Pin
AX30394 20T Drive Gear
AX30413 Slipper Spring
AX30435 Steel Outdrive Shaft Set
AX30190 Shaft
AXA146 M3x12mm Socket Head Screw
AX31026 Slipper Plate
AX31027 Spur Gear 32P 56T
AX31068 Slipper Pad
AX31531 LCX Transmission Case
AX31539 LCX Top Shaft (Coming Soon)
AX31585 Gear Set (48P 28T/ 48P 52T)

Axial Yeti / RR10 Transmission Parts List

Axial Yeti / RR10 Bomber Tranmission Break Down

Found in: YETI SCORE TROPHY TRUCK / YETI / RR10 BOMBER

Stock Gearing
Yeti: 32P 16T Pinion / 64T Spur Gear
Yeti SCORE Trophy Truck: 32P 16T Pinion / 64T Spur Gear
RR10 Bomber: 32P 12T Pinion / 64T Spur Gear

Axial Transmission Guide - RR10 BomberTransmission

Gearing Chart

32 Pitch (Stock Gearing AX30392 or AX30395)

_
Spur Gear

Pinion
56
60
64
68
11
28.85
30.91
32.97
35.03
12
26.44
28.33
30.22
32.11
13
24.41
26.15
27.90
29.64
14
22.67
24.28
25.90
27.52
15
21.15
22.67
24.18
25.69
16
19.83
21.25
22.67
24.08
17
18.67
20.00
21.33
22.67

32 Pitch (Overdrive Gearing AX30401)

_
Spur Gear

Pinion
56
60
64
68
11
25.38
27.19
29.00
30.81
12
23.26
24.92
26.58
28.25
13
21.47
23.01
24.54
26.07
14
19.94
21.36
22.79
24.21
15
18.61
19.94
21.27
22.60
16
17.45
18.69
19.94
21.18
17
16.42
17.59
18.77
19.94

32 Pitch (Underdrive Gearing AX30402)

_
Spur Gear

Pinion
56
60
64
68
11
25.38
34.97
37.31
39.64
12
29.92
32.06
34.20
36.33
13
27.62
29.59
31.57
33.54
14
25.65
27.48
29.31
31.14
15
23.94
25.65
27.36
29.07
16
22.44
24.04
25.65
27.25
17
21.12
22.63
24.14
25.65

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AXIAL YETI SCORE TROPHY TRUCK / YETI / RR10 BOMBER

AXA0413 M2.6x8mm Hex Screws
AXA1045 M4 Nylon Locking Hex Nuts
AXA1221 Bearing 5x11x4mm
AXA1391 E4 E-clips
AXA144 M3x8mm Flat Head Screws
AXA0147 M3x16mm Flat Head Screws
AXA148 M3x18mm Flat Head Screws
AXA150 M3x25mm Flat Head Screws
AX30163 Pin 2.0x10mm
AX30413 Slipper Spring
AX31059 Slipper Plate Washer
AX31065 Spur Gear 23P 64T
AX31067 Slipper Plate
AX31068 Slipper Pads
AX31106 2-Speed Hi/Lo Transmission Motor Mount
AX31107 2-Speed Hi/Lo Transmission Spur Gear Cover
AX31108 2-Speed Hi/Lo Transmission Case
AX31127 2-Speed Hi/Lo Transmission Top Shaft
AX31129 2-Speed Hi/Lo Transmission Bottom Shaft
AX31130 High Speed Transmission Gear Set
AX31131 T-Case Gear Set
AX31180 Aluminum Spur Gear Spacer
AX31313 Transfer Case Output Shaft
AX31324 RR10 Transfer Case

Axial AX10™ Transmission Parts List

Axial AX10 Tranmission Break Down

A quick reference parts list for the Axial AX10™ Transmission.

Found in: AX10 / SCX10 / SCX10 II RTR / WRAITH / SMT10 3 GEAR TRANS

Stock Gearing
SCX10: 32P 13T Pinion / 56T Spur Gear
SCX10 II RTR: 32P 13T Pinion / 56T Spur Gear
Wraith: 32P 12T Pinion / 56T Spur Gear
SMT10: 32P 16T Pinion / 56T Spur Gear

Axial Transmission Guide - AX10 Transmission

Gearing Chart

32 Pitch (Stock Gearing AX30392 or AX30395)

_
Spur Gear

Pinion
56
60
64
68
11
38.69
41.45
44.22
46.98
12
35.47
38.00
40.53
43.07
13
32.74
35.08
37.42
39.75
14
30.40
32.57
34.74
36.91
15
28.37
30.40
32.43
34.45
16
26.60
28.50
30.40
32.30
17
25.04
26.82
28.61
30.40

32 Pitch (Overdrive Gearing AX30401)

_
Spur Gear

Pinion
56
60
64
68
11
34.04
36.47
38.90
41.33
12
31.20
33.43
35.66
37.89
13
28.80
30.86
32.91
34.97
14
26.74
28.65
30.56
32.47
15
24.96
26.74
28.53
30.31
16
23.40
25.07
26.74
28.41
17
22.02
23.60
25.17
26.74

32 Pitch (Underdrive Gearing AX30402)

_
Spur Gear

Pinion
56
60
64
68
11
43.78
46.91
50.04
53.16
12
40.13
43.00
45.87
48.73
13
37.05
39.69
42.34
44.98
14
34.40
36.86
39.31
41.77
15
32.11
34.40
36.69
38.99
16
30.10
32.25
34.40
36.55
17
28.33
30.35
32.38
34.40

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AXIAL AX10™ TRANSMISSION PARTS LIST

AX30487 Complete AX10 Transmission
AXA013 M2x6mm SH Screws
AXA089 M3x25mm SC Screws
AXA1045 M4 Nylon Lock Nuts
AXA1053 M3 Nylon Locking Hex Nuts
AXA1218 Bearing, 5x10x4mm (2 pkgs)
AXA1225 Bearing, 8x16x5mm
AX30162 Cross Pin
AX30190 Shaft 5x18mm
AX30394 20T Drive Gear
AX30413 Slipper Spring
AX30435 Steel Outdrive Set
AX30491 AX10 RTR Motor Plate
AX31026 Slipper Plate Washer
AX31027 Spur Gear 32P 56T
AX31068 Slipper Pad
AX31149 Slipper Drive Gear Shaft
AX80009 Transmission Set
AX80010 Gear Set
AX80078 Transmission Spur Gear Cover

Axial SCX10 II Transmission Parts List

Axial SCX10 II Tranmission Break Down

A quick reference parts list for the Axial SCX10 II Transmission.

Found in: SCX10 II Kit

Stock Gearing
SCX10 II: 32P 15T Pinion / 56T Spur Gear

Axial Transmission Guide - SCX10 II Transmission

Gearing Chart

32 Pitch (Stock Gearing AX31405)

_
Spur Gear

Pinion
56
60
64
68
11
66.18
N/A
N/A
N/A
12
60.67
N/A
N/A
N/A
13
56.00
N/A
N/A
N/A
14
52.00
N/A
N/A
N/A
15
48.53
N/A
N/A
N/A
16
45.50
N/A
N/A
N/A
17
42.82
N/A
N/A
N/A

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AXIAL SCX10 II TRANSMISSION PARTS LIST

AXA436 M3x12mm BH Hex Screw
AXA1218 Bearing, 5x10x4mm (2 pkgs)
AXA1221 Bearing, 5x11x4mm
AXA1225 Bearing, 8x16x5mm
AXA1243 Bearing, 15x21x4mm
AX30394 20T Drive Gear
AX30413 Slipper Spring
AX30435 Steel Outdrive Set
AX30491 AX10 RTR Motor Plate
AX31026 Slipper Plate Washer
AX31027 Spur Gear 32P 56T
AX31068 Slipper Pad
AX31149 Slipper Drive Gear Shaft
AX80010 Gear Set
AX80051 Dig Transmission Case
AX80078 Transmission Spur Gear Cover
AX80079 Wraith Tube Frame Skid Plate/ Battery Tray

Desert Turtle Racing’s RR10 Bomber

20171004_052111The Ultra4 Racing team of Desert Turtle Racing has a few Axial fans in their group. Myself, for one, just happens to be lucky enough to work for Axial. After attending AxialFest 2016 and competing in the Altra Ultra5k with a bone stock RR10 RTR, I was eager to build up my own RR10 in preparation for my next Altra Ultra5k. With a little downtime from working on the full-scale rig I was able to put together a DTR themed RR10 Bomber Chassis. The RR10 Kit has some awesome features and makes for a great starting platform. I opted to add some pretty cool option parts and electronics to give it a little extra kick.

In Ultra4 Racing, one of the must-have items is a 2-speed T-Case, giving this rig a little more realism. I added the Axial 2-Speed Transmission components to give the rig some great low-speed gearing and some “haul the mail” top end – all shiftable with the Tactic TTX300.

I added a few final touches to try and give it a bit more scale looks; ammo cans, painted fuel cell, fuel filler hose and some key interior stickers.

_MG_7878 _MG_7880 _MG_7882 _MG_7883 _MG_7884 _MG_7886 _MG_7888 _MG_7889 _MG_7891 _MG_7892 _MG_7895 _MG_7897 _MG_7898 _MG_7900 _MG_7901 _MG_7902 _MG_7903 _MG_7907 _MG_7908 20170824_173601 20170824_17364820171110_085516 20171004_052039 20171004_052100

Added option parts and electronics

Chassis: AX90053
Steering Hubs: AX30762
Steering Knuckle: AX31434
Front Diff Cover: AX31429
Rear Diff Cover: AX30829
Servo Mount: AX31432
Front Link Mounts: AX31433
Rear Link Mounts: AX31433
Spring Retainers: AX31431
Transmission: AX31181
Steering Servo: Hitec D951TW
Shifting Servo: Hitec HS-985MG
ESC: Tekin FX-R
Motor: Tekin T35 HD
BEC: MaxAmps
Battery: Onyx 11.1 5000mAh
Radio: Tactic TTX300

Find more info about Desert Turtle Racing on Facebook.

How To – Servo and Servo Horn Replacement

Servo_and_Servo_Horn_Replacement

The steering system on a full-size off-road vehicle takes a lot of abuse. It is the same with RC. Whether you’re driving fast over bumps and jumps with an Yeti or crawling over rocks with an SCX10 II or doing a little of both with a Wraith, the steering is constantly taking hits. Whatever you hit, roll over or dig up onto, usually contacts the steering system first. In a similar fashion, and again just as it is in full-size off-road, one of the best ways to improve the capabilities of your RC vehicle is to make improvements its steering system. Instead of installing a hydraulic assist, in RC, we upgrade the servo. Instead of installing a custom pitman arm, in RC, we use an aluminum servo horn. These upgrades are simple tasks that can be performed by hobbyists of any experience level (if you aren’t an adult, get adult assistance and/or supervision).

Installing a New Servo Horn

Axial Servo Swap How To 2

STEP 1. Depending on your model, it may be necessary to remove some components to make servo access easier. On this SCX10, the bumper and cross-member have been removed.

Axial Servo Swap How To 3 Axial Servo Swap How To 4

STEP 2. Remove the servo horn. The horn is most likely retained by a Phillips head screw, or a 2 mm screw. Either way, the screw is easy to access and remove. There may be a lock washer under the screw, so be careful not to lose it. Set this hardware aside. A small dish or tray is handy to prevent losing parts. Pull the servo horn off the servo.

Axial Servo Swap How To 5

STEP 4. Select your new servo horn. Axial offers heavy aluminum servo horns that are essentially indestructible. These horns are offered in 23, 24 and 25 spline counts to fit any brand of servo. Axial servos use 25 spline count output shafts. These servo horns are highly recommended and go a long way towards improving a vehicle’s reliability. They should, however, only be used with heavy-duty metal gear servos that can withstand the forces that will be pass through the steering to the servo.

Axial Servo Swap How To 7

STEP 5. Attach the steering link to the servo horn. This is pretty simple. Note that even if you use a servo horn with threaded holes, you still need a locknut on the screw that attaches the link to the horn.

Axial Servo Swap How To 19

STEP 6. The vehicle must be powered up to properly install a new servo horn. Install a battery and turn on your transmitter. Plug in the battery and turn your vehicle on. Next, set your transmitter’s steering trim (channel 1) to zero. If your transmitter has sub trim, you need to also set that to zero for steering. After the trims have been set to zero, you can turn off the vehicle and then the transmitter.

Axial Servo Swap How To 8

Axial Servo Swap How To 9

STEP 7. Slide the servo horn onto the output shaft and secure it with the main center screw. Axial’s HD servo horns are a double clamping design, so if you’re using one, you will also need to tighten the two 1.5 mm screws on the sides of the horn. Tighten all three screws down tight. Thread lock is not recommended on any of these screws. If you find, over time, that the main screw repeatable loosens and using a new screw doesn’t help, you can use a small amount of medium strength thread lock. Never use high strength thread lock.


Removing an Old Servo

Refer to Steps 1 & 2 above to remove the servo horn from the installed servo.

Axial Servo Swap How To 10

Axial Servo Swap How To 11

STEP 3. Open the radio box using a 2 mm wrench (it may vary by model). With the lid removed, you will be able to carefully unplug the servo lead from the receiver. Again, be careful so that you do not damage the receiver and its internal circuit board. The servo lead (wires connecting it to the receiver) may be attached to the chassis in some places with cable ties. It is essential that you be extremely careful when cutting any cable ties as you could easily damage the small wires.

Axial Servo Swap How To 12

STEP 4. Before removing the servo, take note as to which side the output shaft sits. The servo itself is retained by four screws. These may be Phillips or hex. Some screws may have built-in wide shoulders and others may have washers. Either way, carefully put this hardware aside. The servo can now be removed and set aside.

Axial Servo Swap How To 13

STEP 5. Place the new servo on its mounting plate. Servos can vary in size, but Axial vehicles have adjustable servo mounts. If you do need to adjust the servo mount (one is in a fixed position and one adjusts), the process is the same on SCX10 and Wraith, which all feature servos mounted directly on the front axle. On these vehicles, with the new servo set aside, remove the mounting plate from the axial. You can make this process easier by disconnecting the upper links and the upper shock mounts. This will allow the axle assembly to pivot forward and give you much better access to the screws attaching the servo mounting plate to the axle. After you remove the servo mounting plate, turn it over and locate the screw securing the adjustable mount. To identify this mount, look for the screw going into an oval shaped hole. The oval shape is what allows for the side-to-side adjustment for narrow or wide servos. Now, simply loosen the screw a small amount (usually a partial turn is all that’s needed) and test fit your new servo. Holding the servo in place, tighten the screw back down. Remove the servo and reinstall the servo mounting plate to the axle. You can now reconnect the upper links and shocks. If the male and female driveshaft pieces pulled apart, make sure it gets reconnected as well (before reconnecting the upper links).

Axial Servo Swap How To 14

STEP 6. Slide the new servo into the mount, paying close attention to which side the output shaft sits. When working on an SCX10 or Wraith, and when viewed from the front, the output shaft is on the right-hand side. Secure the servo with the four screws that were holding the original servo in place. If the screw holes are stripped out and the screws cannot be fully tightened, you will need to replace the plastic servo mounts.

Axial Servo Swap How To 15

STEP 7. The next step is routing the servo lead back to the radio box and receiver. Make sure the wires are not near any moving parts such as articulating suspension components or driveshafts. This is especially true if your Axial model has exposed gears. Small cable ties can be used to keep wires secure and out of harm’s way. Note that Axial includes provisions to secure wires on vehicles such as the SCX10 and SCX10 II. These should definitely be used to secure wiring.

Excessive wire should be neatly stored in the radio box. Do not make the wires too tight or they will get damaged as the suspension articulates. The wires should be slack enough to allow for complete suspension movement.

Once the wiring is complete, you reinstall the radio box lid. Some radio boxes are not fully sealed, but if you are using a sealed box, you should add grease to the area where the wires pass into the box.

Axial Servo Swap How To 16

STEP 7. Finally reinstall the servo horn on the centered servo. Refer to STEP 7 above. Your servo swap is complete! You can now power up your radio and vehicle and go out for a drive.

Axial Servo Swap How To 17

TIP: Radio Settings
You may need to slightly adjust your steering trim to get the vehicle to track straight with no input. If your transmitter has sub trim, this adjustment is used first.

If your transmitter has end-point adjustments, you should also use these to adjust how far the servo travels in either direction. A servo that turns farther than the steering system will allow can eventually burn out. The best tool to see if your servo is moving too far and straining is your ear. All servos, especially digital models, make an audible whine when pushing against a resistance. Bench test your steering. If you hear a whine at full lock in either direction, adjust the end points until you don’t hear a whine. If your transmitter doesn’t have end point adjustments, it may have dual rates, which also reduces steering throw, but does both sides simultaneously.

Trail Time Never Ends – Installing LED’s For The Daylight Savings Switch

Deadbolt_led_ina_deadbolt

Two times a year something called Daylight Savings Time really messes with me and so many others. Sure there is a good side of some additional sleep in the Fall, but that kick back in Spring is really like a kick in the… let’s skip that. Daylight savings came about as a way to give people more usable working hours as the earth’s axis tilts between seasons which in turn affects daylight time. The practice of DST was also used to conserve power before recent efficient household products came to market.
We’re not here to give you a whole history lesson, we’re here to tell you that this Daylight Savings Time is once again about to encroach upon your trail time and of course we cannot have that! Typically during the Fall Daylight Saving Shift, many lose out on wheel time, the skies darken and that evening run after work, school or other activity gets sidelined. Rigs get shelved and sit begging for use until the next DST shift. Well it’s time to break that cycle!

Axial Night Run Open

Many trail events have incorporated a evening or night trail run. At Axialfest, the night runs are among the most popular trail times and drivers will flood the trails until the sun rises in the mornings. These evening adventurers have their rigs wired for business so light floods their paths making it fun and challenging to hit the trails for nonstop action. So why can’t the rest of us do that? We’re about to break the mold and beat up the guy that made the mold. We’re going to show the glow on the Axial Deadbolt SCX10 using factory Axial option parts. The Deadbolt comes equipped with a 5-bucket light bar that only requires a few option parts to make them illuminate and so it’s a natural fit to turn into the perfect Daylight Savings Time evening trail runner. But, it’s not going to end with a simple light upgrade. We’re going to take it a step further and show you how to really light up the trails.

PROJECT NIGHT VISION DEADBOLT
Axial Night Run 1
Our project vehicle is a brand new Deadbolt SCX10 ready to run kit. The Deadbolt is assembled from the factory with electronics installed and ready for trail runs day or soon to be night runs. As mentioned, it is already equipped with a 5-bucket light bar on the cage that can be easily fitted with the Axial AX24251 Night Visions System. The NVS actually includes a number of the LED light strings that will fit right on the Deadbolt. Installation is easy, let’s get to work.


OPTIONS USED
Axial Night Run 15

The Night Visions System or NVS is a great for customizing any scale RC machine. This set controls the headlights, tail lights, brake lights, and right/left turn signals, as well as some extra auxiliary lighting. The complete details on this set are: HERE

Includes the following LED light strings:
(1) Double LED light string for headlights (White LED)
(1) Double LED light string for brake lights (Red LED)
(2) Double LED light strings for turn signals (Orange LED)
(1) 5 LED light string for auxiliary lights (White LED)

TOOLS NEEDED
Axial Night Run 11
1.5mm & 2mm Hex Driver
Reamer
Small Zip-Ties
2-Sided Tape
Scissors
Soldering iron and solder (possibly)


STEP 1
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The first step to installing the 5-LED light string (included with the NVS) in the Deadbolt light housings is to locate the LED retaining retainers on the back of the light buckets. There you will see a small screw holding the retainer in place. Using your 1.5mm hex driver, remove all five screws and retainers.

STEP 2
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Unpack the LED string and place a retainer onto one of the end LED’s and then slip that prepped light into one of the end light buckets on the rack.

STEP 3
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Time to secure that LED. Using the screw and your 1.5mm hex driver attach the retainers to the light housing with the screw.

STEP 4
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Repeat the process for the remaining lights. We “twisted” the wires as we went along for a neater look.

STEP 5
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The power wire needs to be run inside of the body. Using your reamer, locate an area to make a hole where you can run the wire inside of the body.

STEP 6
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Feed the LED power wire into the body.


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TIP: Use zip-ties to secure the wires to the roll bar for a finished look.


STEP 7
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The NVS controller needs to be connected to the receiver to utalize all of its functions. To access the receiver, use your 2mm hex driver and remove the two receiver box lid screws. Pop the top off the box.

STEP 8
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Locate the Channel 1 and 2 port on the receiver; unplug your servo and ESC. Remember, the servo is Chanel 1 and the ESC is Channel 2.

STEP 9
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Now plug the servo lead into the NVS system in line with the Channel 1 signal lead on the NVS. Repeat for the Channel 2/ ESC lead.

STEP 10
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The NVS works inline with your servo and ESC signals. It interprets the signals and can initiate LED functions that work in sync with your vehicle’s movement. For example, when you turn, the NVS will make the turn signal blink. If you hit the brake on the radio, the brake lights will illuminate on your truck if you choose to install them. We’re keeping it simple here by powering our light bar. To complete the wiring, you’ll need to plug the Channel 1 lead from the NVS into the receiver and then follow suit for Channel 2.

STEP 11
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It’s best to tidy up your wiring. Take a zip-tie or two and neatly bundle the extra wire before tucking it into the receiver box.

STEP 12
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It’s time to find a location for your NVS power controller. We’re going to use a piece of double sided tape to adhere the controller to the top of the receiver box. We’ve used two additional pieces to fill in the indents on top of the box for a larger area for the NVS to stick to. This location will give us easy access to the wiring.

STEP 13
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Once the controller is attached to the box, use some zip-ties to neaten up any hanging wires. Secure the NVS on/off switch using 2-sided tape to an easy access location.

STEP 14
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Locate the power harness to power your NVS system, it is included with the set. You’ll notice it has two Tamiya connectors with a jumper wire. Insert the small white plug into the power port on the NVS. Since the newest model Deadbolt comes with a Star-Plug, it will not work with the Tamiya connectors. Rather than solder Star Plugs to the harness, we’re going to take a neater approach to integrating the connector. We’re going to cut the small gauge power wire leading to the NVS and solder it to the tabs of the Star-Plug.

STEP 15
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After a quick solder task, the NVS power wire looks at home connected to the Star-Plug and much neater without the additional connectors. If you don’t have a soldering iron, you can probably head to the hobby shop where you purchased your machine and they can solder it for you. Some shops might charge a service fee for soldering. Or you can head out and purchase your own soldering supplies, they certainly come in handy for this hobby.

STEP 16
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This is probably a great time just to check to make certain the components power up. We’re going to use the Auxiliary ports for our rack lights and front bumper/fog lights. Here we’ve plugged the fog lights into one of the upper Auxiliary ports. First turn on your radio and then plug in your battery to the ESC to power the Deadbolt. Turn on the NVS switch and wait a few seconds. The NVS has to power up and then it will illuminate the LED’s. We’re Good!

STEP 17
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There is a two LED white light string in the NVS (shown above) and two open light buckets in the Deadbolt bumper. Seems like a match to me, let’s add them too! Remove the bumper to install the LED lights by removing the two bumper retaining screw pins with a 1.5mm hex driver.

STEP 18
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Locate the rest of the parts you’ll need. That means going back and finding the additional parts that came with your kit. Here you’ll find the two LED retainers you need. You’ll also need a pack of AX31066 M2x8mm screws to secure the retainers. Then dip back into the NVS box to find that 2-LED string.

STEP 19
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Install the LED light into the bumper in the same manor as you installed the lights in the light buckets. Once both lights are installed, place the bumper back in the cross-brace and reinstall the retaining screw pins. Plug the LED wire connector in to any Aux port on the NVS.

Axial NVS Plugs
We’re almost done! Place a fully charged battery into your Deadbolt, turn on your radio and then plug your battery in. Now connect the extension wire from the 5-light string into the controller Aux port. You should have working lights! Place the body on the truck, insert your four body pins… And go explore the trails at night!

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Now your ready to go make some cool images! See our blog post:
Night Photography Tips by Ian Coble

night_photo_tips01

Install a Fuel Cell/Parts Bin into Your Axial SCX10 II

Install a Fuel Cell/Parts Bin into Your Axial SCX10 II

We recently posted a video to Youtube of our favorite tools and parts we bring with us when we hit the trails (see it here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mZxm84NMJr0). With some further brainstorming, we came up with a cool idea that let’s your SCX10 II carry it’s own spare parts! All you need is a Yeti fuel cell fitted between the trucks shock hoops. Here’s how to do it.

TOOLS NEEDED:
1. 2.0mm Hex Wrench

LIST OF PARTS USED:
AXA0113 Axial M3x6mm Hex Socket Button Head Screw
AXA144 Axial M3x8mm Hex Socket Flat Head Screw
AXA1105 Axial Cone Washer
AX31125 Axial Yeti™ Fuel Cell

Let’s get started!

Step 1

Install a Fuel Cell/Parts Bin into Your Axial SCX10 II
Before installing the fuel cell, I attached the top and added a pair of AXA0113 M3x6mm BH screws to the holes I won’t be using. This is not really necessary but does help give the cell a more ‘finished’ look.

TIP: Prior to installation, paint the fuel cell. This will give your rig a more finished look.

Step 2

Install a Fuel Cell/Parts Bin into Your Axial SCX10 II
The first install step is to remove the top shock mount screws. This gives us access to the bracing between the shock mount hoops.

Step 3

Install a Fuel Cell/Parts Bin into Your Axial SCX10 II
Slide the assembled fuel cell in between the shock hoops as shown and line up the holes with the bosses on the cell. Secure with the AZA144 M3x8mm FH screws and AXA1105 Cone Washers. The red arrow points to the mounting location.

Step 4

Install a Fuel Cell/Parts Bin into Your Axial SCX10 II
Boom! That’s it! You can take the lid off, pour your spare parts in there and close it back up. The fuel cell could also be used to house lighting or winch controllers, but be warned that it is not waterproof.

Words and photos by Tony Phalen

 

Product Spotlight: AX31150 Axial Clear Inner Fenders

AX31150 Axial Inner Fenders

While prepping my truck for this years #AXIALFEST2017 (ok, my wife’s truck), I happened to notice one of my fellow co-workers bolting on a set of inner fenders onto his SCX10 II XJ. I asked him where he got those and he informed me it was an actual Axial product, just maybe one that wasn’t so well known.

Of course, I had to investigate further – AX31150 is in fact a molded piece of .40″ clear Lexan that not only includes 4 inner fenders, it also has floor panels for trucks that don’t have them (the SCX10 for example). In addition to giving you extra space to mount electronics, it also acts as a barrier to help keep mud, water and other debris from entering the chassis.

Product Spotlight: AX31150 Axial Clear Inner Fenders

As you can see, it comes clear and can be painted any color you want (I’m going with from-the-factory black). A strip of double-sided tape is included to securely attach them to the side rails. Another cool thing is that they are a universal fit; you can trim them to match almost any body you decide to use.

So, for those of you that like to do some serious trailing but are worried about splashing grit and grime all up in your chassis, here’s a simple solution. I’ve added a few pix of these mounted on the SCX10 II, however as you can see I’ve left off the floor panels since this particular truck already comes with them.

Product Spotlight: AX31150 Axial Clear Inner Fenders

Product Spotlight: AX31150 Axial Clear Inner Fenders

Product Spotlight: AX31150 Axial Clear Inner Fenders

Product Spotlight: AX31150 Axial Clear Inner Fenders

AX31150 Axial SCX10 Wheel Wells – .040″ (Clear)