AX90046 SCX10 II Jeep Cherokee Kit Build Series – Part 3

AX90046SCX10II_JeepCherokeeKit_Build_Series_Part3
Up next in the build series is assembling the links. Probably one of the best parts of the build, am I right guys?! Well, it might not be everyone’s favorite because it is some repetitive work, but what brightens up this particular job is that this kit comes with aluminum links which is preferred over composite links. This is some simple work but there are a few tips and tricks we can pass along.

TOOLS NEEDED
2.0mm hex driver
Side cutters

STEP 1
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As always its best to gather the parts bags you’ll need and run through the steps in the manual quickly to help identify any details that require extra attention.

STEP 2
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A little tip we like to pass along is to arrange the aluminum link tubes in size order so you identify them a bit easier as you go through the build steps.

STEP 3
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Find the aluminum tubes used for the first link assembly. If you’re unsure of what size tube to use, you can place it on the 1:1 drawing to find the correct size.

STEP 4
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Take a close look at the instructions to identify what rod ends you’ll need. There are a number of styles, some on angles and some are straight. You want to make sure the part number in the manual matches the rod end you use or there could be some suspension bind if you use the incorrect rod ends.

STEP 5
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Using the 2mm hex driver, screw the set screws into the rod end until you just feel them bottom out.

STEP 6
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Screw the rod ends into the aluminum tubes. Make sure the final locations of the ends match the illustrations in the manual.

STEP 7
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Next you’ll need to insert the pivot balls into the rod ends. Note, the pivot balls have a large flanged end and a narrow end. Note the way they are installed as illustrated in the manual. Some links have both flanges face the same side while other links have an off-set installation.

STEP 8
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The steering links and pan hard link should now be assembled. You can install them on the axle and steering knuckle with the hardware as indicated in the manual. Do not overtighten the screws. The pivot balls are plastic and can be crushed if you tighten the screws too much.

STEP 9
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Next build the three links that will support the front axle and tie it to the chassis.

STEP 10
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Screw the three links to the front axle, making sure the rod ends are facing the correct way as indicated by the illustrations.

STEP 11
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By now you should have a good understanding of how the links go together. Assemble the four remaining rear links and attach them to the rear axle.

FINISHED
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The link assembly is complete! If you used a hand tool, by now your wrist should be tires and your fingers sore from holding onto the rod ends. Congratulations you’re fitting nicely into the model community. Keep an eye out for the next steps of our build series where we’ll get into building the shocks.

Note: This How To Can Also be Used For Link Sets:
SCX10 II Front Links Set – AX31465
SCX10 II Rear Links Set – AX31466

AX90046 SCX10 II Jeep Cherokee Kit Build Series – Part 2

AX90046SCX10II_JeepCherokeeKit_Build_Series_Part2

Building your AX90046  kit is going to be a great and rewarding experience. You’ll see how each and every piece fits together and you control the build how you want it to be assembled. We’re starting the build at the beginning of the manual of course. This also means we’ll be starting with bag A and will eventually need to dip into some other bags of supporting parts.

TOOLS NEEDED
Axial Kit Build19
Cutters
1.5 and 2.0mm Hex Drivers

STEP 1

Axial Kit Build1

Open Bag A and organize your parts so you can see everything you’re working with.

STEP 2

Axial Kit Build2

Start by assembling the spool and ring gear. The gear is held onto the spool with three M2x8mm screws. Use a small drop of the included thread locking compound on each screw before installing it. Tighten the screws well so they do not back off. Then slip the 7x14x3.5mm bearing onto each end of the spool. Make two of these.

STEP 3

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You now need to search for additional parts outside of Bag A. Look for Plastic Bag 1. This will have the axle parts you need for the next several steps.

STEP 4

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Push the appropriate bearings into the plastic axle housing that support the bevel pinion gear followed by the gear itself. Take the supplied grease, puncture the end and liberally coat the ring gear on the spool with grease. More is better here, but make sure you have enough to coat the axle gears and the transmission gears later in this build.

STEP 5

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Slip the spool assembly into the axle housing. It will only fit in one way. Cap the axle with the cover and the four M2.6x18mm screws. Use a quality 2mm hex driver to tighten the screws to a firm feel.

STEP 6

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Next find the rest of the plastic axle components. When it time to cut them from the parts trees, use a good quality sprue cutter.

STEP 7

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Cut the steering knuckle from the tree and insert the appropriate bearings into the knuckle to support the front universal shafts.

STEP 8

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Push the universal driveshafts into the bearings.

STEP 9

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Turn your attention back to the axles. It’s time to install the C-carriers. Slip the bearing into the axle followed by the carrier and secure it with the screw. Take extra time here and follow the manual. These carriers are installed in a certain way that is well diagrammed in the manual. Failure to install them correctly will result in some funky geometry that will not work well on the trail.

STEP 10

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Slip the assembled driveshafts with carriers into the axle housing. You’ll then use the shoulder screws to secure the knuckles to the C-carriers. Take note of the direction of the parts here too. When screwing in the shoulder screws, make sure they are a bit past snug. Don’t over-tigthen the shoulder screws or you chance stripping out the C-carrier.

STEP 11

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Gather up the parts to complete the rear axle assembly.

STEP 12

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Slip the half-shaft into the axle housing making sure the flat end keys into the spool. Then place a bearing at the end of the shaft.

STEP 13

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Slide the axle extension tube over the half-shaft and secure the part in place with the pinch screw.

STEP 14

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We’re getting close to wrapping up the axle assembly. Locate the link mounts and secure them using M2.6x1mm screws. Tighten these screws firm, they support the suspension links. Install two link mounts on each axle case.

FINISHED

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Here are the assembled front and rear axles. This build blog would also be helpful if you were building the AX31438 AR44 Locked Axle Set for a custom project. Take your time and build the axles right for smooth bind free operation.

AX90046 SCX10 II Jeep Cherokee Kit Build Series – Part 1

AX90046SCX10II_JeepCherokeeKit_Build_Series_Part1
The debate over which style of RC kit is better, ready to run or build kit, may never be resolved, but one thing is for sure, Axial serves up both styles for either type that suits your style. Since Axial builds a lot of projects, the team tends to lean towards a kit to build and well there are some exciting build projects in the works. So while we’re building up a new AX90046 SCX10 II™ 2000 Jeep® Cherokee 1/10th Scale Electric 4WD Kit to use as the base for a build, we charged up the camera to take some pictures along the way of a stock kit build. If you have any questions about building your SCX10 II kit, you’ll be able to reference this build series to get you through any steps. In the first part of this series, we’re going to go over the basics of the kit itself and things you’ll need for the perfect build.

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When you get your kit, the first thing you should do is? Anybody? Empty the box and roll around in the Axial goodness? No that’s just too weird man. The first step is to go through the contents and familiarize yourself with what’s in the box.

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Put your hand on the body, flip the box over and viola! The kit contents all packed up in an XJ shell.

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Here’s the bag you should get into first. The bag with the manual.

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If it’s your first time building a kit, you should read through the manual first. Look at what you need. Take note of hardware sizes. Look at the types of parts. What parts bags go with what steps. A run through ahead of time will minimize miss steps or something else that may throw your build off track.

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When going through the steps, take out some of the parts bags so you know what to look for when you get to that particular step later.

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The need to open a new bag may come at any time.

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Sometimes it’s a good idea to lay out the parts bags in the order you’ll be assembling them.

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13
14
Wait! What are these green nubs and the religious item included in the kit? These green domes are course markers. They are put on the trail so you know where to drive your rig. If you get into competitions, you’ll see more of these on the trail. The silver tool is a cross-wrench that will service most hardware nuts on the truck.

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Now let’s get into what you need. With most kits, you’ll need electronics and you’ll need to pick these items up at your local hobby retail store or your favorite online business; Horizon Hobby has all of the gear shown above. For the SCX10 II Kit, you’ll need a radio with receiver, a steering servo, motor, speed control, battery, charger and possible connectors for your ESC.

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Next up on the you’ll need list is tools. There are two examples above. The top is a bit more expensive tool set-up while the set below is a less expensive set that will get the job done too. You’ll need cutters, pleirs, a hobby knife, scissors, hex drivers and even nut drivers to complete the assembly of your kit. Here are some links to the tools above:
Dynamite Metric Hex Driver Set- DYNT2030
Dynamite Nut Driver Set- DYNT2010
Dynamite Start-up Tool Set- DYN2835

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Finally the chemicals you’ll need. Some CA glue such as the thin adhesive shown here from Dynamite for the tires and some paint for the body. Window masks are included with the kit, but if you want to spray your body more than one color, you may need some masking tape to use for your designs.

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No seriously; did you read the manual? Do it, it helps. That wraps it up for the introduction of this build series. Make sure you follow the build each week while we get this truck ready for off-road action.

 

 

How To: Install the AXI31555 Blazer Hard Top

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Axial’s AX90058 SCX10 II 1969 Chevrolet Blazer is certainly one good-looking ride, but the addition of the AXI31555 Hard Top is sure to catch the attention of many Blazer fans. In this article, we show you a step-by-step procedure on how to mount this cap. But, before we do, let’s go over some of the tools you’ll need to get the job done.

TOOLS NEEDED:
1. 1.5mm Hex Wrench
2. Scissors (specialty scissors for cutting polycarbonate plastic)
3. Reamer (for drilling holes)
4. Paint (for polycarbonate bodies)

LIST OF PARTS USED:
AX90058 Axial SCX10 II 1969 Chevrolet Blazer RTR
AXI31555 Axial Blazer Hard Top

STEP 1

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Before we build, let’s look at what comes in the AXI31555 Blazer Hard Top package. There’s the polycarbonate plastic shell, instruction sheet, window masks, sticker sheet and hardware bags. Easy enough, right?

STEP 2

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top A closer look at the instruction sheet. It also documents the opening rear window, a cool feature but more needed to get to the body clips!

STEP 3

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Window masks. I peeled off the excess to make it easier to see the actual window parts. Note the top and bottom are for the side windows, the center is for the rear window.

STEP 4

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Before you stick the window masks on, make sure you wash the Hard Top with soap and water. Dry it completely – you may even want to let it sit out for a little bit to air dry, just to be sure. Peel off the masks and stick them on. They don’t have to be perfect as we’ve included external decals, but you want to get them as close as possible.

STEP 5

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Paint whatever color you want; I did black since I figured it would match the Blazer body well.

STEP 6

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top After the Hard Top is done drying, cut it out, remove the window masks and the overspray film. Now, as an added detail, sprayed the outside of the Hard Top with a matte clear coat to soften up the shine. If you want to replicate this, DO NOT remove the overspray film. First, use a sharp blade (Xacto brand, Olfa, etc) and cut out around the windows, then remove the overspray film. If you don’t cut out the windows, you’ll clear coat them as well and you won’t be able to see through them.

STEP 7

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Using the hardware enclosed, attach the mounts to the Hard Top. Note that there are two different designs of mounts; you don’t want to mix these up when you install them. Read the instructions carefully.

STEP 8

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Assemble the swiveling tailgate mount…

STEP 9

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top …and attach it to the tailgate. You’ll need to notch the tailgate first; there are scribe marks to show you where to cut.

STEP 10

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Attach the tailgate assembly to the Hard Top.

STEP 11

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top The tailgate should swing freely. If not, you may need to trim the notches until it does.

STEP 12

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Here’s a quick inside look at the tailgate mounted to the Hard Top. You can also, at this time, attach the tailgate lift handle.

STEP 13

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Ream 4 small holes into the Blazer body; there are already dimples in place. Note that you only need to ream the front- and rear-most holes as shown.

STEP 14

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Set the Hard Top in place and attach with the supplied hardware. Set your completed Blazer down, step back and revel in your masterpiece!

Tips For Spray Painting Bodies

Tips4Painting_Lexan_Bodies
A task simple for some can be daunting for others. Spray painting an RC bodies is one of those tasks. For those who have not painted a body before, you’ve found the right blog to read. We’re going to show you just how to paint your first body successfully. These are simple tips and tricks that will allow you to paint your body so when you’re finished, it looks like it came from the factory. Let’s get started.

Axial Spray Paint1
We’re going to paint these RR10 Bomber panels for an upcoming project so they will be the demo pieces for this blog. Before you get started, here are a few things you’ll need to have on hand to get the job done. First, you’ll need spray paint of course. Make certain it is a polycarbonate compatible spray paint. This type of paint will adhere itself to the Lexan. Other paints may not adhere and flake off as soon as you roll your rig over. You’ll also need some dish soap, paper towels, masking tape and some warm water.

STEP 1
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The first step is to wash your body or panels. When the body is molded at the factory, sometimes oils from the molds or even someone’s hands can get on the body. Using the dish soap, a paper towel and some warm water, wash the body well and rinse out all of the soap.

STEP 2
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Now use some more towels to dry the body. Do not leave any water on the body. Get into all the creases with the towel to get the water out or it will deflect the paint leaving fish-eye like marks.

STEP 3
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We’re getting close to spraying the paint. Before you do so, you’ll want to shake the can of paint for a few minutes to mix the contents as you would do with any can of paint. Now here’s an additional trick some painters don’t share. Run warm water over the can to help warm the contents. This will help pressurize the can and make the spray come out in a fine pattern to better coat the body.

TIP
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Another tip we have is to hold the body about 8-10 inches from the spray can. Spray too close and you can get drips or uneven spray patterns. Spraying farther away will help coat the body evenly.

STEP 4
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Now it’s time for your first coat. In one direction, either horizontally of vertically spray the body. Don’t spray the body directly. Start spraying and move the can across the body and stop spraying when the can has past the body. If you hold the can directly at the body and spray, you can’t just blobbing the paint in one spot. Now for the next pass, shift the can and repeat the process until the body has a very light first coat of paint. Set the body aside and let it dry; fifteen to twenty minutes is a good drying time.

STEP 5
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Time for the second coat. Basically repeat the steps above. Warm the can, note your spacing, start your spray before the body and stop after you’ve passed over the body. Hold the body up to some light to see how the coverage is. Here our second coat covered well on the right side, we’re going to make one or two more passes on the left side to even up the coverage and then set it aside to dry.

STEP 6
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Here is the interior of our bomber after the third coat. We still have some clear spots to fill in. To do this, we’ll get just a little closer with the can to get the paint into the hard to reach areas. If you are spraying flat panels, keep your distance and spray over the light areas.

TIP
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Some panels can be difficult to hold. Using some tape, stick it to the panel and make a small fold in the center to hold onto.

TIP
Axial Spray Paint Tip
Be aware that some colors may need to be backed by another color. Fluorescent colors typically need to be backed with white. Candy colors can be backed with white, silver, gold and sometimes even black. If your solid color still seems transparent, consider backing it with white or even a silver. Keep in mind that whatever color you use to back your paint may alter the main color. So if you spray black behind red, it may turn the red dark. It may be better to back red with a silver as if the red is too transparent, a white might make it look pink. Here’ we’re backing this white panel with silver to give it a more opaque look.

FINISHED
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There we have it, a perfectly painted interior for our Bomber. Don’t forget to pull the overspray film off of the Lexan before applying decals. The interior is now ready to be installed. We hope this simple spray painting tutorial helps you spray paint your first body shell. Make sure to check back often on the Axial Blog as we’ll get into more complex paint jobs in the future.

 

 

Tips To Assemble Beadlock Wheels

Tips_Assemble_Beadlock_Wheels
Who loves assembling tires? Raise your hand! Stop raising your hand, we can’t see you. Glueing or assembling tires on beadlock rims is not among the favorite build tasks of an RC machine. Perhaps that is why most RC manual writers leave it to the end. But it’s a job that needs to get done. However if it’s not done right, it could lead to problems when you’re out at play or on the course. Here we’re going to go over how to assemble a certain wheel type so it secures the tire properly and that is a beadlock rim. Beadlock rims have some great advantages, they secure the tire without glue and the wheel can even be reused when you want to swap tires. But if you assemble a beadlock incorrectly, your tire may seem out of alignment and cause wheel wobble and erratic handling. Let’s go over some tips to help you install a tire on a beadlock wheel properly.

GATHER YOUR PARTS
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Gather all the parts you need to assemble one wheel and put them together in a pile. Here is the loosely assembled wheel, tire with insert, screws and inner hub.

TOOLS
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The tools you’ll need will be pretty simple. Pretty much you’ll just need a 2mm hex driver for this wheel. We’re going to make our lives easier and use and electric driver with 2mm speed bit. You may also need a leather punch depending on how you want to vent your tire.

STEP 1
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These 2.2 Walker Evans Wheels came loosely assembled from the factory. It is important to notice how they come apart. They have a vent option built into the wheel that allows you to have no vent, a 2 hole vent (1 on each side) or a 4 hole vent or even a 6 hole vent. This vent system is off-set so you’ll want to notice the position of the middle ring. To make keeping track of the rim easier, we put the wheel from the factory on the table, backside of the rim first. Then slide out the center hoop and place the back side down next to the rear locking ring. Then we take the face of the rim out and placed it next to the center ring.

STEP 2
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Take the center ring and slip it into the tire makeing sure it also goes inside of the foam insert. As you slip the insert in, the “back” of the rim will continue to face down.

STEP 3
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Check to make sure your inner ring is perfectly positioned in the center of the foam.

STEP 4
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Now pick the tire up, move it over the back side of the beadlock ring and place the tire down. You can flip the tire over now so you can push the outer rim onto the tire. We know the additional steps to keep track of the inner ring off-set sound silly, but trust us, its better to go slow and keep track rather than getting frustrated wondering why your wheel isn’t going together properly.

STEP 5
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Look inside the wheel, see the notches? This is the venting system. By moving the outter rim so it inserts over the peg in a different location adjusts how much the tire will vent. We have it in the middle so only one hole on this side of the wheel will vent air. Want a softer tire, allow 2 holes to vent. Want to go in the water, shift the wheel ring so none of the holes are open. You get the idea.

STEP 6
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Now take the time to set the tire bead onto the shiny portion of the rim ring, we pulled the tire off of it, so you can see it better. If its on the next lower part of the ring, it may not press on properly later. After slowly pushing in the outter ring, lift up on the tire edge a bit to make sure its seated properly.

STEP 7
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Now you can flip the tire back over and place it on your bench. Slip in the front portion of the rim from the top. Push down on the rim face so the tire bead seats itself just like you did to the back ring.

STEP 8
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With the rim face in place, flip the tire over again and make sure the screw holes line up. If they do not, spin the front rim face until the holes line up. Do no turn the back ring, this will change your vents.

STEP 9
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Time to start assembling this thing! Screw two screws into the rim on opposite sides. Only screw them in a few threads.

STEP 10
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Now install two more, again across from each other and just a few threads.

STEP 11
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Thread the last few screws into the wheel, again just screw them in so a few threads catch. Your wheel should now be aligned and ready to be tightened. But wait!

STEP 12
Axial Beadlocks 14x
You will need to keep the wheel face and back ring even as you tigthen down the screws. This is achieved by tightening the screws a little at a time in a “star pattern” just as if you were tightening the lug-nuts on a real car. You may tighten the screws down in the star pattern for 4-5 cycles before the wheel has compressed and properly pinched the tire in the beadlock. Tigthen the screws until they are snug and you don’t see any gaps between the rim pieces or screws.

STEP 13
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Install your inner hex hub in a similar fashion. You can install all the screws at once, but tighten them into their final position by using the star pattern.

STEP 14
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Check your tire overhang. Lift up on the edge of the tire and you should see the rubber overhang edge that sits on the outter edge of the rim. It should look uniform as you turn the wheel and gently pull up on the edge. If you see a large gap or can’t pull the edge out at all, there’s a chance your  tire is not properly seated in the rim and you’ll need to disassemble the wheel and repeat the install process. If you don’t the tire will wobble. A wobbly tire can cause bad handling and wear other parts on the rig prematurely.

TIPS
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Some drivers choose to vent through the tire. To do this, you’ll need a leather punch to punch a hole in the tire. The thought behind venting the tire is that any dirt that gets inside can “fling” out. Or if water gets in the tire, it can drain out. Some think less dirt gets into the tire with this style of vent. It’s an option we just want to let you know about and you can decide what style is best for you.

Axial Beadlocks 19
Foam Trimming- There are a number of methods to trimming tire insert foam that will change how the tire acts. Some will cut the outer edges of the foam on a diagonal so the sidewall of the tire will feel a bit softer. If you are just having fun, leave it as is. If you plan to race, see how other racers modify their inserts.

FINISHED!
Axial Beadlocks 17
Your beadlock wheel and tire are now properly assembled. Just three more to go! Or if you have a Bomber, just four more to go! Take your time and assembled your wheels properly. They’ll stay together and allow your rig to perform better.

Build The Perfect King Shocks

Building_ThePerfect_King_Shocks

When it comes to building shocks on an RC kit, many builders start to cringe. It’s not a favorite task for many, however building your shocks properly is a must if you want your suspension to perform. We’re working on a RR10 Bomber for some future video action shoots and decided to take some extra time to take photos to show you just how to build the King aluminum shocks that come with the kit. Here we’ll show you all of our tips and tricks that will result in a high performance shock that will give your rig the best handling possible.

YOU’LL NEED
Shock Shaft Pliers (TLR99101)
5.0 Nut Driver (Set: DYNT2010)
Shock O-Ring Grease (TLR77002)
Competition Silicone Shock Oil (TLR74020)
Paper Towels

STEP 1
Axial King Shocks 1
It’s best to take the time and lay out all of your shock components nice and neatly so you have everything in front of you and nothing is left out.

STEP 2
Axial King Shocks 2
We’re going to start with the cartirdge assembly. Carefully cut them from the parts trees and slip the clear o-ring over the threads and seat it in the lower slot.

STEP 3
Axial King Shocks 3
Don’t jump right into installing the shock o-rings in the cartridge. Before you do so, here’s a tip. Use a shock o-ring grease such as TLR77002  to grease the o-rings. Place a small amount of grease in a plastic bag and then the o-rings. Work the grease onto the o-rings so they’re well coated.

STEP 4
Axial King Shocks 4
You’ll also need the cartidge spacers and caps to finish the cartridge assembly. It’s best to cut the parts off of the tree using a hobby knife. Cut as close as you can to the spacers so there isn’t any extra material from the tree on the spacer. Extra material here could cause a binding in the cartridge.

STEP 5
Axial King Shocks 5
Place a greased o-ring in the cartridge, followed by the spacer, followed by another o-ring.

STEP 6
Axial King Shocks 6
Snap the cartridge cap on and make certian it is perfectly seated in place. If the cap isn’t completely snapped on, it could possible come apart during use.

STEP 7
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Now it’s time to install the pistons on the  shock shafts. In your RR10 kit, there will be delrin pistons in the bag. Use these. Place one washer on the shock shaft, followed by the piston, followed by another washer and then the retaining nut. Use shock shaft pleirs to hold the shaft and use the 5.0 nut driver to snug the nut into place.

STEP 8
Axial King Shocks 8
Once you’ve tightened the nut, make certain the piston just barely spins on the shaft. If you tighten it too much to the point it can’t move, you may have possibly “mushroomed” the piston and it could possibly bind in the shock body.

STEP 9
King SHock
Slip the assembled shock shaft/ piston into the cartridge and thread it into the bottom of the shock body slowly. You’ll want to completely screw the cartridge in slowly until the o-ring can no longer be seen and the cartridge is tight.

STEP 10
Axial King Shocks 9
Slide the bump-stop on the shaft and screw the shock end onto the shaft until the top of the end meets the unthreaded portion of the shaft. Using shock shaft pliers here is a good idea.

STEP 11
Axial King Shocks 11
Time to install the pre-load collars, but first you need to slip the black o-rings into the slots inside the collars.

STEP 12
Axial King Shocks 12
When threading the collars onto the shock body, it’s a good idea to put a drop of oil at the top of the threads. This will allow the collars to screw on much easier.

STEP 13
Axial King Shocks 13
We’re getting there. It’s now time to fill the shock with oil. Instead of using the kit oil, we’re going to use a competition grade oil from Team Losi Racing to fill the shock. With the piston at the bottom of the body, fill the shock body with oil to the top.

STEP 14
Axial King Shocks 14
Axial King Shocks 15
This is a critical step. We have to cycle out any air trapped under the piston. Slowly push the shock shaft up in the body. Don’t let the piston go past the oil at the top. When the piston nears the top, pull the shock shaft back down and air bubbles should rise to the top. Continue this process until all of the trapped air is gone. If there are fine bubbles in the oil, set the shock aside and wait for the air bubble to come to the surface.

STEP 15
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Seat the shock bladder into the cap. Slip the bladder in and using a fine blade screwdriver or similar object, make sure the bladder is seated perfectly in the top of the cap by pushing on the edges.

STEP 16
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Top off the shock with oil if necessary. The oil should be near level with the top of the body.

STEP 17
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Slowly push the shock shaft to the top.

STEP 18
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Now screw the shock cap on. Some oil should seep out of the sides. Tighten the cap firmly.

STEP 19
Axial King Shocks 22
Once the cap is tightented, the shaft should slide out a little bit. Cycle the shock shaft in and out several times to make sure it has a good feel and there isn’t any binding.

STEP 20
Axial King Shocks 23
If the shock is built correctly, you should be able to push the shock shaft all the way to the top. If there is a lot of shock shaft showing, you have what’s called hydro-lock and this will cause handling problems. You may need to bleed some additional oil out of the shock. Loosen the cap, push the shock shaft in all the way and tighten the cap again. This should bleed out some oil. Repeat the process until the shaft goes all the way up.

STEP 21
Axial King Shocks 25
Almost done, slip the appropriate spring over the shock body and slip the lower shock perch into place. Pop the ball end into the shock eyelets and you’re shock is assembled!

FINISHED
Axial King Shocks 24
Your shocks should now be assembled and ready for installation on your rig. You’re not done yet. You’ll still need to adjust your pre-load collars to set your vehicles ride height. Use the suggested collar settings in the manual as a starting point. Because the weight of the equipment used in a rig may vary, small adjustments may need to be made to set your vehicle to a ride height that will work for you.

 

How To: Low Cost Blazer Tail Lights

Simple_Blazer_Tail_Light_Install
The AX90058 SCX10 II 1969 Chevrolet Blazer has become an instant hit since it’s release and drivers all over are already taking it out to explore new trails and others are already customizing it with incredible scale detail. A few of the features that many Blazer owners like is the included front LED lights and included AE-5L speed control to power the lights. If you haven’t noticed already, there is an open pigtail on the speed control that will allow you to install an additional set of LED lights. We’re going to show you how to take advantage of that open LED port by installing tail lights on your Blazer. All you’ll need are the light pods included with the kit, some hardware you may already have and a light string you can pick up at your local hobby shop or favorite online retailer.

Axial Blazer Tail Lights 1
You remember that bag of extras that came with your kit? Time to dig it out from under your workbench. Inside you’ll find some parts trees with light buckets and lenses. There are a number of light buckets included, but we’re going to use the small round buckets found on the tree shown above.

Axial Blazer Tail Lights 3
To add LED lights you’ll need to pick up a pack of AX31481 lights that will look similar to the lights above. You’ll also need just a few screws to complete the install. Two 3x6mm button head machine screws (AXA0113) and two 2x6mm cap head machine screws (AXA013.)

STEP 1
Axial Blazer Tail Lights 4 Axial Blazer Tail Lights 5
We’re going to install the tail lights in the rear bumper. The first step is to test fit the lights so you know exactly where they are going. The two photos above show where the light buckets will be located on our Blazer.

STEP 2
Axial Blazer Tail Lights 6
Using a marker, make a mark on the bumper where the indexing pin on the light bucket will go in the bumper.

STEP 3
Axial Blazer Tail Lights 7
Now drill a small hole where you made your reference mark. We actually found that rotating a hobby knife around like a drill will make a nice small hole just right for the bucket pin.

STEP 4
Axial Blazer Tail Lights 8
Now place the light bucket back into place on the bumper, the index pin should go right into the bumper. Make sure the bucket is square in the bumper and then use your marker to make a mark around the mounting boss of the bucket. This will give you an idea of where you need to drill the mounting hole.

STEP 5
Axial Blazer Tail Lights 9
Drill a 3.5mm hole using your marks as a guide. When you’re done, your hole pattern should look like this.

STEP 6
Axial Blazer Tail Lights 11
Axial Blazer Tail Lights 10
Time to assemble your light buckets. Slide the LED light in the bucket, followed by the LED clip over the back of the light and use the 2x6mm screw to secure the clip to the bucket.

STEP 7
Axial Blazer Tail Lights 12
Next press the lenses into the light buckets. TIP 1: Paint the lens red from the backside to give it more of a tail light look. TIP 2: Before pressing the lens into the bucket, use some clear model glue to help secure the lens.

STEP 8
Axial Blazer Tail Lights 13
Here is the tricky part, screwing the light bucket to the bumper using the 3x6mm screw. To do this, we cheated and made an additional hole in the bumper bracket that allowed us to slip a long 2mm ball-end hex driver through the bumper to get to the screw. Screw your light pods to the bumper.

STEP 9
Axial Blazer Tail Lights 14
Things get simpler here. Plug your LED light string into the open port of the AE-5L speed control.

STEP 10
Axial Blazer Tail Lights 15
Use some zip-ties to secure the LED light wires to the chassis cross members.

FINISHED
Axial Blazer Tail Lights 17 Axial Blazer Tail Lights 16
In about 10-15 minutes of time at your workbench, you should have working taillights. Head out to the trails and enjoy the new look of your Blazer on your Axial Adventures.
Axial Blazer Tail Lights 18

Simple Honcho Interior Install

Simple_Honcho_Interior_Install
The Trail Honcho has been a long time favorite for RC off-road enthusiasts. It has an all business look with the large plate shielded front bumper, its recognizable cab and it’s tough cage rear section. When the SCX10 II Trail Honcho was announced, drivers enthusiasm again surged for this iconic machine in the scale crawling world. But this writer still felt it needed a little something else. You see, inside of that cool extended cab is, well, empty. You look into the windows and you see wires, a motor and a transmission case. Now the new transmission case does have a cool new scale look to it, however, it’s not something you’d expect to see if you looked into a cab of a scale truck. There should be an interior right? Agreed! So I started sifting through possible options for an interior. Drivers who run the SCX10 II 2017 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited CRC use the 2012 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon Body as an interior. But there isn’t anything that is a true close fit such as that example. First I took a Deadbolt Body and held it up to the Honcho. This seemed like an ok option and then out of the corner of my eye was a 1/10 Yeti RTR interior. This interior seemed to fill the space in the Honcho cab a bit better. Interior found! In this Tech how to, we’ll show you just how easy it is to adapt the Yeti interior into the Trail Honcho for a better scale appearance.
Axial Honcho Interior 1

PARTS NEEDED
Y-380 1/10th Scale Interior – AX31141
Helmet Set (Black) – AX31049
Misc. Hardware
2-sided Tape

Axial Honcho Interior 2
TOOLS NEEDED
Reamer or Drill with bits
Permanent Marker
Polycarbonate Paint

PREPARATION
In this how to, we’re using an Interior from a 1/10 Yeti Ready To Run which comes painted. If you’ve purchased the Yeti interior as a stand alone part, you’ll need to paint it yourself. Take the time to wash the lexan with soap and water before painting it. Paint in a well ventilated area and take your time and paint the body and or helmets to meet your custom scale needs.

STEP 1
Axial Honcho Interior 3
We want to secure the interior to the Honcho with screws so we need to decide where those screws should be located. To hide the screws as best as possible, we’re going to locate the mounting points in the hood vent area. Using the marker, place a dot where you will drill the holes.

STEP 2
Axial Honcho Interior 4
Using your reamer or a drill bit, drill a hole on each side of the body in the vent decal area where your mounting points will be. The holes should be slightly larger in diameter to the hardware you’ve selected to use.

STEP 3
Axial Honcho Interior 6
To help position the interior we’ve placed two small pieces of two sided tape on each side of the body to secure the interior. This will allow us to move and tweak its position before we use screws to mount it permanently.

STEP 4
Axial Honcho Interior 5
Once the interior is in position, press it down firmly to secure it to the two-sided tape on the body.

STEP 5
Axial Honcho Interior 7
Now that the interior is in place, you can use your reamer or drill bit to open a hole in the interior, using the hole you previously made in the hood as a guide.

STEP 6
Axial Honcho Interior 8
With holes in the body and interior, you can secure the two together using the hardware of your choice. We found some small 1.6mm screws and nuts in our spares bin. Using smaller hardware looks a bit more scale.

STEP 7
Axial Honcho Interior 11
We’re not going to go through all the motions again to tell you how to make a hole, so we’ll give you the basic rundown on how to secure the rear. We chose to drill a hole through the “Keyhole” on the Honcho’s door handles as the spot to locate the hardware that will secure the interior in the rear. We then ran a long drill bit into the interior and drilled a pilot hole. With some long screws we found in our hardware bin and some plastic nuts and shoulder spacers we found in our Axial spares bag, we secured the back half of the interior on each side.
Axial Honcho Interior 9

FINISHED
A few Axial option parts, a little paint and just a few minutes with some basic hobby tools and hardware you probably have lying around, you now have an interior for your Honcho that fills the cab space and hides all of the inner workings of the SCX10.
Axial Honcho Interior 10

Axial Deadbolt and Wrangler CRC Bumper Mod

CRC_Bumper_Mod

As you continue to grow into your Axial SCX10 II and become more comfortable driving the rig, you’ll want to progress your adventures beyond daily driving. When doing this, you’ll start to think more about approach angles to obstacles and this is when things like the scale replica bumper on the truck may hold you back. Sure the bumper looks cool, but it’s overhang may prevent you from getting over some tough terrain. When you reach this point, you might want to consider modifying your bumper. Here we’re going to go over a CRC bumper modification that many seasoned scale drivers are already doing. You’ll need a few basic tools you may already have on hand and just a little bit of time at your workbench. Let’s get started.

TOOLS NEEDED
2.0mm Hex Driver
Lexan Scissors
Drill & 2.5mm drill bit
Dremel tool with sanding drum

BEFORE WE BEGIN
Axial CRC Bumper Mod 2
Before you jump right into your bumper modification, let’s take a look at the stock bumpers position, just so you can see how much it has moved once the mod is complete.

STEP 1
Axial CRC Bumper Mod 3
Using a 2mm hex driver, remove the two screw pins that hold the bumper to its mount.

STEP 2
Axial CRC Bumper Mod 4
Using a marker, mark the area that will need to be cut away from the original bumper in order to move it farther back in the chassis. Note, you’ll want to clear the chassis rails, so make sure you start your marks on the outside of the frame rails.

STEP 3
Axial CRC Bumper Mod 5
Using a pair of Lexan scissors, cut along the line you marked on the bumper. Be aware that there are thin support tabs in the bumper that will need to be cut as well.

STEP 4
Axial CRC Bumper Mod 6
Toss scrap plastic and if you wish, clean up the cut edges on the bumper with a Dremel tool and sanding drum. Be sure to wear eye protection.

STEP 5
Axial CRC Bumper Mod 7
The thin support plastic tabs you cut through before are also located on the top side of the bumper posts. These will need to be cut away too, to allow the bumper to slide further into the mount. Using straight scissors, cut the tab close to the post and close to the bumper plate.

STEP 6
Axial CRC Bumper Mod 8
Now you can “rip” the rest of the little support tabs out with a pair of needle nose pliers.

CHECK YOUR WORK
Axial CRC Bumper Mod 9
With the bumper cut up and the tabs removed, insert the bumper to make sure your cuts were enough. We have plenty of room here to cut the ends of the mounting posts and move the bumper even farther back.

STEP 8
Axial CRC Bumper Mod 10
With a pair of side-cutters, cut the ends of the bumper posts off at the last hole.

STEP 9
Axial CRC Bumper Mod 11
We’re getting close to finishing. Insert the bumper as far back as it will go in the mount, making sure it’s square to the chassis. Take your drill with 2.5mm bit and drill new holes into the bumper posts using the holes in the chassis mount as a guide.

STEP 10
Axial CRC Bumper Mod 12
Grab the bumper mounting screw pins and screw your bumper back in place in the new set back location.

DONE
Axial CRC Bumper Mod 13
The bumper relocation is complete. See how much closer it is to the battery mount? You’ve now reduced the amount of front bumper overhang and should be able to approach steeper obstacles to conquer.
Axial CRC Bumper Mod 14