Axial AX10™ Transmission Parts List

Axial AX10 Tranmission Break Down

A quick reference parts list for the Axial AX10™ Transmission.

Found in: AX10 / SCX10 / SCX10 II RTR / WRAITH / SMT10 3 GEAR TRANS

Stock Gearing
SCX10: 32P 13T Pinion / 56T Spur Gear
SCX10 II RTR: 32P 13T Pinion / 56T Spur Gear
Wraith: 32P 12T Pinion / 56T Spur Gear
SMT10: 32P 16T Pinion / 56T Spur Gear

Axial Transmission Guide - AX10 Transmission

Gearing Chart

32 Pitch (Stock Gearing AX30392 or AX30395)

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Spur Gear

Pinion
56
60
64
68
11
38.69
41.45
44.22
46.98
12
35.47
38.00
40.53
43.07
13
32.74
35.08
37.42
39.75
14
30.40
32.57
34.74
36.91
15
28.37
30.40
32.43
34.45
16
26.60
28.50
30.40
32.30
17
25.04
26.82
28.61
30.40

32 Pitch (Overdrive Gearing AX30401)

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Spur Gear

Pinion
56
60
64
68
11
34.04
36.47
38.90
41.33
12
31.20
33.43
35.66
37.89
13
28.80
30.86
32.91
34.97
14
26.74
28.65
30.56
32.47
15
24.96
26.74
28.53
30.31
16
23.40
25.07
26.74
28.41
17
22.02
23.60
25.17
26.74

32 Pitch (Underdrive Gearing AX30402)

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Spur Gear

Pinion
56
60
64
68
11
43.78
46.91
50.04
53.16
12
40.13
43.00
45.87
48.73
13
37.05
39.69
42.34
44.98
14
34.40
36.86
39.31
41.77
15
32.11
34.40
36.69
38.99
16
30.10
32.25
34.40
36.55
17
28.33
30.35
32.38
34.40

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AXIAL AX10™ TRANSMISSION PARTS LIST

AX30487 Complete AX10 Transmission
AXA013 M2x6mm SH Screws
AXA089 M3x25mm SC Screws
AXA1045 M4 Nylon Lock Nuts
AXA1053 M3 Nylon Locking Hex Nuts
AXA1218 Bearing, 5x10x4mm (2 pkgs)
AXA1225 Bearing, 8x16x5mm
AX30162 Cross Pin
AX30190 Shaft 5x18mm
AX30394 20T Drive Gear
AX30413 Slipper Spring
AX30435 Steel Outdrive Set
AX30491 AX10 RTR Motor Plate
AX31026 Slipper Plate Washer
AX31027 Spur Gear 32P 56T
AX31068 Slipper Pad
AX31149 Slipper Drive Gear Shaft
AX80009 Transmission Set
AX80010 Gear Set
AX80078 Transmission Spur Gear Cover

How To – Servo and Servo Horn Replacement

Servo_and_Servo_Horn_Replacement

The steering system on a full-size off-road vehicle takes a lot of abuse. It is the same with RC. Whether you’re driving fast over bumps and jumps with an Yeti or crawling over rocks with an SCX10 II or doing a little of both with a Wraith, the steering is constantly taking hits. Whatever you hit, roll over or dig up onto, usually contacts the steering system first. In a similar fashion, and again just as it is in full-size off-road, one of the best ways to improve the capabilities of your RC vehicle is to make improvements its steering system. Instead of installing a hydraulic assist, in RC, we upgrade the servo. Instead of installing a custom pitman arm, in RC, we use an aluminum servo horn. These upgrades are simple tasks that can be performed by hobbyists of any experience level (if you aren’t an adult, get adult assistance and/or supervision).

Installing a New Servo Horn

Axial Servo Swap How To 2

STEP 1. Depending on your model, it may be necessary to remove some components to make servo access easier. On this SCX10, the bumper and cross-member have been removed.

Axial Servo Swap How To 3 Axial Servo Swap How To 4

STEP 2. Remove the servo horn. The horn is most likely retained by a Phillips head screw, or a 2 mm screw. Either way, the screw is easy to access and remove. There may be a lock washer under the screw, so be careful not to lose it. Set this hardware aside. A small dish or tray is handy to prevent losing parts. Pull the servo horn off the servo.

Axial Servo Swap How To 5

STEP 4. Select your new servo horn. Axial offers heavy aluminum servo horns that are essentially indestructible. These horns are offered in 23, 24 and 25 spline counts to fit any brand of servo. Axial servos use 25 spline count output shafts. These servo horns are highly recommended and go a long way towards improving a vehicle’s reliability. They should, however, only be used with heavy-duty metal gear servos that can withstand the forces that will be pass through the steering to the servo.

Axial Servo Swap How To 7

STEP 5. Attach the steering link to the servo horn. This is pretty simple. Note that even if you use a servo horn with threaded holes, you still need a locknut on the screw that attaches the link to the horn.

Axial Servo Swap How To 19

STEP 6. The vehicle must be powered up to properly install a new servo horn. Install a battery and turn on your transmitter. Plug in the battery and turn your vehicle on. Next, set your transmitter’s steering trim (channel 1) to zero. If your transmitter has sub trim, you need to also set that to zero for steering. After the trims have been set to zero, you can turn off the vehicle and then the transmitter.

Axial Servo Swap How To 8

Axial Servo Swap How To 9

STEP 7. Slide the servo horn onto the output shaft and secure it with the main center screw. Axial’s HD servo horns are a double clamping design, so if you’re using one, you will also need to tighten the two 1.5 mm screws on the sides of the horn. Tighten all three screws down tight. Thread lock is not recommended on any of these screws. If you find, over time, that the main screw repeatable loosens and using a new screw doesn’t help, you can use a small amount of medium strength thread lock. Never use high strength thread lock.


Removing an Old Servo

Refer to Steps 1 & 2 above to remove the servo horn from the installed servo.

Axial Servo Swap How To 10

Axial Servo Swap How To 11

STEP 3. Open the radio box using a 2 mm wrench (it may vary by model). With the lid removed, you will be able to carefully unplug the servo lead from the receiver. Again, be careful so that you do not damage the receiver and its internal circuit board. The servo lead (wires connecting it to the receiver) may be attached to the chassis in some places with cable ties. It is essential that you be extremely careful when cutting any cable ties as you could easily damage the small wires.

Axial Servo Swap How To 12

STEP 4. Before removing the servo, take note as to which side the output shaft sits. The servo itself is retained by four screws. These may be Phillips or hex. Some screws may have built-in wide shoulders and others may have washers. Either way, carefully put this hardware aside. The servo can now be removed and set aside.

Axial Servo Swap How To 13

STEP 5. Place the new servo on its mounting plate. Servos can vary in size, but Axial vehicles have adjustable servo mounts. If you do need to adjust the servo mount (one is in a fixed position and one adjusts), the process is the same on SCX10 and Wraith, which all feature servos mounted directly on the front axle. On these vehicles, with the new servo set aside, remove the mounting plate from the axial. You can make this process easier by disconnecting the upper links and the upper shock mounts. This will allow the axle assembly to pivot forward and give you much better access to the screws attaching the servo mounting plate to the axle. After you remove the servo mounting plate, turn it over and locate the screw securing the adjustable mount. To identify this mount, look for the screw going into an oval shaped hole. The oval shape is what allows for the side-to-side adjustment for narrow or wide servos. Now, simply loosen the screw a small amount (usually a partial turn is all that’s needed) and test fit your new servo. Holding the servo in place, tighten the screw back down. Remove the servo and reinstall the servo mounting plate to the axle. You can now reconnect the upper links and shocks. If the male and female driveshaft pieces pulled apart, make sure it gets reconnected as well (before reconnecting the upper links).

Axial Servo Swap How To 14

STEP 6. Slide the new servo into the mount, paying close attention to which side the output shaft sits. When working on an SCX10 or Wraith, and when viewed from the front, the output shaft is on the right-hand side. Secure the servo with the four screws that were holding the original servo in place. If the screw holes are stripped out and the screws cannot be fully tightened, you will need to replace the plastic servo mounts.

Axial Servo Swap How To 15

STEP 7. The next step is routing the servo lead back to the radio box and receiver. Make sure the wires are not near any moving parts such as articulating suspension components or driveshafts. This is especially true if your Axial model has exposed gears. Small cable ties can be used to keep wires secure and out of harm’s way. Note that Axial includes provisions to secure wires on vehicles such as the SCX10 and SCX10 II. These should definitely be used to secure wiring.

Excessive wire should be neatly stored in the radio box. Do not make the wires too tight or they will get damaged as the suspension articulates. The wires should be slack enough to allow for complete suspension movement.

Once the wiring is complete, you reinstall the radio box lid. Some radio boxes are not fully sealed, but if you are using a sealed box, you should add grease to the area where the wires pass into the box.

Axial Servo Swap How To 16

STEP 7. Finally reinstall the servo horn on the centered servo. Refer to STEP 7 above. Your servo swap is complete! You can now power up your radio and vehicle and go out for a drive.

Axial Servo Swap How To 17

TIP: Radio Settings
You may need to slightly adjust your steering trim to get the vehicle to track straight with no input. If your transmitter has sub trim, this adjustment is used first.

If your transmitter has end-point adjustments, you should also use these to adjust how far the servo travels in either direction. A servo that turns farther than the steering system will allow can eventually burn out. The best tool to see if your servo is moving too far and straining is your ear. All servos, especially digital models, make an audible whine when pushing against a resistance. Bench test your steering. If you hear a whine at full lock in either direction, adjust the end points until you don’t hear a whine. If your transmitter doesn’t have end point adjustments, it may have dual rates, which also reduces steering throw, but does both sides simultaneously.

How To – Program Your ESC For NiMH Batteries

 

Program_NiMH_Batteries

Axial’s Ready-to-Run (RTR) vehicles are true hobby-grade products and, as such, they use sophisticated electronic components. One of the primary advantages to such high-tech gear is adjustability and an area of adjustability includes battery type. Axial’s electronic speed controls (ESCs) are designed to be used with a variety of battery chemistry types and can, and should, be adjusted for the type of battery you’re using.

IMPORTANT NOTE: As a safety measure, Axial uses the LiPo setting as the default setting on the ESC, but NiMH batteries, are often recommended for use with RTRs. NiMH batteries will provide best performance when the ESC is used in NiMH mode.

nimh_and_lipo

LiPo batteries must be run with the ESC set in LiPo for safe use. This isn’t optional. When properly set in LiPo mode, Axial ESCs are designed to eliminate the chance of over discharging the battery and permanently damaging it, which is a potential safety issue. As such, LiPo batteries should never be used in any other mode other than LiPo mode on the ESC.

NiMH batteries will work in LiPo mode, but there will be a noticeable reduction in performance that will suddenly become apparent as the pack starts to lose voltage (discharge). This is because LiPo mode has what is called LiPo cutoff or low voltage cutoff. As the voltage drops in the NiMH pack, it is still delivering usable power, but the LiPo cutoff engages and impairs performance. The LiPo cutoff is designed to reduce power to the motor in order to keep the battery at a safe minimum voltage. Let’s go over setting up NiMh mode on the various Axial ESC offerings so you can get maximum performance when using this type of battery.


 

axial ae-2 esc

AE-2. The AE-2 is a brushed motor speed control. While Castle Creation’s Castle Link system can be used to link the ESC up to a computer (availabe as an aftermarket item,) for ease of use, the AE-2 can be programmed manually by using the throttle trigger on your transmitter to indicate yes or or no to selections as you scroll through each option. To get the best performance when using a NiMH, the ESC should be programmed to operate in NiMH mode.

When programming, as a safety measure, remove the pinion from the motor. This will prevent the gears and/or vehicle from moving and causing damage to the vehicle or you. Turn the transmitter on and then connect a freshly charged battery to the ESC. Hold full throttle and turn on the ESC. You will hear four tones from the ESC and then another four tones. After the second series of four tones, release the throttle. The ESC will beep twice indicating you’re in programming mode.

There are three settings that can be adjusted on the AE-3. Each setting, in turn, has a varying number of options. You will use your transmitter’s throttle to select yes (full throttle) or no (full brake) for each option. When you select yes, the next setting will come up. Every time you select no, you will toggle to the next option within that setting. When you select yes or no, wait for a continuous tone and let the throttle go to neutral. If you selected yes, the ESC will go to the next setting.

To change to NiMH mode, you will need to go to the first setting. Remember, LiPo batteries must be used LiPo mode.

Setting 1 LiPo Cutoff
Option 1: None (NiMH mode)
Option 2: Auto-LiPo*

Setting 2 Drag Brake
Option 1: Disabled
Option 2: 15%
Option 3: 25%
Option 4: 40%
Option 5: 50%
Option 6: 100%*

3: Brake/Reverse Type
Option 1: Reverse enabled (2-second lockout)
Option 2: Reverse disabled
Option 3: Forward/Brake/Reverse*
* = Default factory setting

For additional reference, view the manual: HERE


 

axial ae-3 esc

Vanguard AE-3. The Vanguard AE-3 is a brushless motor speed control. It comes preprogrammed in the “Auto-LiPo” mode. Like the AE-2, you can use the Castle-Link to program the ESC with your PC, but you can also manually program the ESC with your transmitter.

When programming, as a safety measure, remove the pinion from the motor. This will prevent the gears and/or vehicle from moving and causing damage to the vehicle or you. Turn the transmitter on and then connect a freshly charged battery to the ESC. Hold full throttle and then turn on the ESC. You will hear four tones from the ESC and then another four tones. After the second series of four tones, release the throttle. The ESC will beep twice indicating you’re in programming mode.

There are nine settings that can be adjusted. Each setting, in turn, has a varying number of options. You will use your transmitter’s throttle to select yes (full throttle) or no (full brake) for each option. When you select yes, the next setting will come up. Every time you select no, you will toggle to the next option within that setting. When you select yes or no, wait for a continuous tone and let the throttle go to neutral. If you selected yes, the ESC will go to the next setting.

To change to NiMH mode, you will need to go through settings one through six to get to setting seven, which changes the battery mode. Remember, LiPo batteries must be used LiPo mode.

Setting 1 Brake/Reverse Type
Option 1: With Reverse*
Option 2: Without Reverse
Option 3: Crawler Reverse. No delay from throttle to brake to reverse.

Setting 2 Brake Amount
Option 1: 25% Power
Option 2: 50% Power*
Option 3: 75% Power
Option 4: 100% Power

Setting 3 Reverse Amount
Option 1: 25% Power
Option 2: 50% Power*
Option 3: 75% Power
Option 4: 100% Power

Setting 4 Punch/Traction Control
Option 1: High
Option 2: Medium
Option 3: Low
Option 4: Lowest
Option 5: Disabled*

Setting 5 Drag Brake
Option 1: Drag Brake off*
Option 2: Drag Brake 10%
Option 3: Drag Brake 20%
Option 4: Drag Brake 30%
Option 5: Drag Brake 40%

Setting 6 Dead Band
Option 1: Large – 0.1500 ms
Option 2: Normal – 0.1000 ms*
Option 3: Small – 0.0750 ms
Option 4: Very Small – 0.0500 ms
Option 5: Smallest – 0.0250 ms

Setting 7 Cutoff Voltage
Option 1: No low-voltage cutoff
Option 2: Auto-Lipo*
Option 3: 5v
Option 4: 6v
Option 5: 9v
Option 6: 12v

Setting 8 Motor Timing
Option 1: Lowest
Option 2: Normal*
Option 3: Highest

Setting 9 Motor Type
Option 1: Brushless*
Option 2: Brushed Reversing
Option 3: Brushed High Power
* = Default factory setting

For additional reference, view the manual: HERE


 

axial ae-5 esc

AE-5. The AE-5 is a brushed speed control and is by far the easiest ESC to program. To switch from the factory LiPo mode, remove the “jumper” and move it over one position. Not only is this ESC easy to program, it’s also waterproof.

For additional reference, view the manual: HERE

Axial AE-5


 

ae-1

AE-1. Axial’s AE-1 ESC does not have a LiPo cutoff. If you use LiPo batteries in a vehicle equipped with an AE-1 ESC you must use a separate LiPo low-voltage cut-off device. Axial does not sell a separate LiPo cut-off device, so the best choice would be to upgrade to an ESC such as the Axial AE-5 (see above), which is extremely easy to program and waterproof.

Upgraded SMT10™ Grave Digger Monster Jam Truck for Dennis Anderson

tech_smt10_dennis_anderson_500px
With the 2017 No Limit RC World Finals just around the corner, we decided to provide Dennis Anderson, driver of the 1:1 Grave Digger, with a fully hopped up version of our AX90055 SMT10™ Grave Digger Monster Jam Truck.

Here’s a list of the parts used in this build:

Front End
AX30395 Axial Heavy Duty Bevel Gear Set – 38T/13T
AX30762 Axial XR10 Aluminum C-Hub Carrier
AX31244 Axial Upper Link Plate Set
AX31245 Axial Lower Link Plate Set
AX31428 Axial AR60 Steering Upgrade Kit
AX31429 Axial AR60 Machined High Clearance Differential Cover
AX31430 Axial King Shocks Aluminum Caps and Collar Set – 12mm
AX31431 Axial Aluminum Shock Spring Retainer – 12mm
AX31432 Axial AR60 Machined Servo Plate and Mount Set
AX31433 Axial AR60 Machined Link Mounts
AX31434 Axial AR60 Machined Steering Knuckles

Mid-Section
AX24260 Axial AE-3 Vanguard Brushless ESC
AX30839 13T 32P Pinion Gear
AX30860 Axial Machined Motor Plate
AX31047 Axial Brushless 3150kV Motor
AX31068 Axial Slipper Pads
AX31163 Axial Steel Spur Gear 32P 56T

Rear End
AX30395 Axial Heavy Duty Bevel Gear Set – 38T/13T
AX30789 Axial AR60 OCP Aluminum Straight Axle Hub Carrier
AX31244 Axial Upper Link Plate Set
AX31245 Axial Lower Link Plate Set
AX31429 Axial AR60 Machined High Clearance Differential Cover
AX31430 Axial King Shocks Aluminum Caps and Collar Set – 12mm
AX31431 Axial Aluminum Shock Spring Retainer – 12mm
AX31433 Axial AR60 Machined Link Mounts

© 2016 Feld Motor Sports, Inc. MONSTER JAM®, UNITED STATES HOT ROD ASSOCIATION®, USHRA®, and GRAVE DIGGER® are trademarks used under license by Feld Motor Sports, Inc.  All rights reserved.

2017 RC Monster Truck World Finals

2017 RC Monster Truck World Finals

Axial is back from the 2017 RC Monster Jam World Finals in Las Vegas and it was a huge hit. After last year’s success, the promoters loved us so much that they moved the track to the middle of the pit party. Grandstands were erected so people could watch and a Monster Jam Snack Bar was set up for those that wanted some refreshments during our races. In the three days we were there, we staged three segments; each had a qualifying run, main event race and a freestyle event.

2017 RC Monster Truck World Finals

To further promote our time at the event, we grabbed our trucks and walked out into the crowd after each segment to chat with the crowd. FELD, the management used to regulate the show, said we were a huge hit and probably the best part of the pit party. We constantly had 3-4 rows deep of people surrounding the track, easily 400+ in number, all cheering us on.

All the trucks used were prepped and painted to mimic the real Monster Trucks competing each night in the Big Show. Each day during the pit party there was approximately 10-15,000 people walking threw. All day the event promoters were pushing the RC Monster Truck World Finals, letting everyone know how to get started by simply buying an Axial Grave Digger or MAX D. Once a day the camera crew would stop by and talk to Bari on how he got started, and of course he would talk about Axial.

2017 RC Monster Truck World Finals

The track was a dirt base with painted wooden ramps and a fully detailed Sam Boyd Stadium scoreboard. We copied the full size track as best we could and when the FELD people walked by they said our Track looked better than theirs!! LOL

2017 RC Monster Truck World Finals

Thanks to Bari, FELD and all the Monster Jam crew for all their help! It was a fantastic event and I can’t wait until next year! Axial is looking to make it even better!
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Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build

tech_maxdoption

Words and photos by Tony Phalen

I’ve been looking forward to getting one of Axial Racing’s SMT10 Monster Trucks, so when the MAX-D landed on my doorstep (thanks UPS guy), it was literally a matter of seconds before the box was open and the truck was out. I was even more stoked, however, when I found a big ol’ box of Axial’s aftermarket goodies included so I could do an upgrade article.

Below is a step-by-step guide, walking you through the disassembly and re-assembly of the SMT10 with all of these parts.

STEP 1

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build Here’s a overview shot of all the parts I’ll be installing on the MAX-D. A list is included at the end of the article complete with part numbers and links.

STEP 2

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
I’ll be splitting the build up into three sections; front, rear and mid. Here’s a pic of the parts I’ll be using for the front end rebuild; steering parts, upper and lower link plates, link mounts, shock parts, gears and the diff cover.

STEP 3

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Since the SMT10 is modular in design, I need to remove anything that will keep the front from coming off easily – that being the front tires and servo. Once the servo has been disconnected, you can let it dangle down and under the center transmission.

STEP 4

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
To remove the front ‘clip’, simply unscrew at the three attachment points designated by the red arrows. Do this on both sides and the front end will drop right off. Pay close attention to the WB8 center driveshaft coupler; it fits between the front and center driveshaft sections and, once the front clip is removed, this piece can fall out.

STEP 5

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Attach the AX31244 Axial Upper Link Plate Set and AX31245 Axial Lower Link Plate Set. Because of the design, I didn’t need to remove anything other than the shocks; that’s fine because I need to work on those at a later time anyway.

STEP 6

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
The AX31432 Axial AR60 Machined Servo Plate and Mount Set is up next for install, but before you do that, assemble it and attach the servo to it. This ensures the two side upright pieces line up with the servo. I would also suggest using a dab of blue threadlocker on the two screws going up and into the aluminum side uprights. Once everything is aligned, remove the servo.

STEP 7

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Remove the stock plastic servo mount and replace with the aluminum assembly from STEP 6.

STEP 8

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Remove the lower links and replace the plastic link mounts with the AX31433 Axial AR60 Machined Link Mounts. Re-attach the lower links.

STEP 9

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Before moving on, I suggest paying close attention to the orientation of the steering blocks in relation to the lower link mounts. The upgrade C-hubs I’ll be using have more adjustability than the stock plastic ones, so if you just throw them on and clock the C-hub like the original (red arrow), your caster will be WAY off. So, my suggestion is not to assemble to match the C-hub (red arrow), but to assemble to match the top kingpin screw (orange line).

STEP 10

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
But first, remove the steering system. Four screws will do it.

STEP 11

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
I’m also going to replace the diff gears while I’m at this point. Remove the four screws holding on the diff cover and the four screws holding the diff in place. You’ll need to pull the axles out a bit to disengage them from the diff.

STEP 12

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Remove the four screws to release the stock diff gear and replace with the AX30395 Axial Heavy Duty Diff Gear. Make sure the gasket is in place and not still attached to the original diff gear. A keen eye will notice the planetary diff design instead of a locked unit. This type of differential is actually a better fit for Monster Trucks.

STEP 13

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
You’ll need to replace the stock input gear as well; that can be done on the opposite side of the axle. Replace with the AX30395 Axial Heavy Duty Input Gear, re-install the differential and slide the axles back into the housing. You may need to rotate the axles to key them into the differenial.

STEP 14

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Replace the stock plastic cover with this beautiful AX31429 Axial AR60 Machined High Clearance Differential Cover.

STEP 15

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Ok, now it’s time for the steering. On one side at a time, pull the plastic parts off, keeping the bearings and hat bushings handy. Re-assemble the the AX30762 Axial XR10 Aluminum C-Hub Carrier and AX31434 Axial AR60 Machined Steering Knuckles. Note the orientation of the parts; if you get confused, look at the opposite side of the steering to make sure you’ve assembled it correctly (the reason why I suggest removing only one side at a time).

STEP 16

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
The AX31428 Axial AR60 Steering Upgrade Kit comes with a small build sheet in it. Use that to assemble the steering links, then attach them to your steering knuckles. The final assembly should look like this.

STEP 17

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Using STEP 9 as a guide, slide one C-hub onto the axle and secure. Now slide the other C-hub onto the axle and secure.

STEP 18

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
At first, I thought the shocks were going to be a pain; replacing oil, bleeding, etc. However, if you complete this step carefully, you won’t have to do any of that!

Start by inserting the rubber o-ring into the AX31430 Axial King Shocks Aluminum Collars; set aside. Grab your shocks and remove the lower spring retainer and spring. Carefully remove the shock cap and set the shock off to the side in some sort of stand. Pull the bladder out of the shock cap (if it’s up in there) and install it into the AX31430 Axial King Shocks Aluminum Cap; set aside. Grab your shock again and spin the plastic collar off; it can only be removed from the top. Spin the King Aluminum Collar on followed by the King Aluminum Shock Cap. Install the spring from the bottom and the AX31431 Axial Aluminum Shock Spring Retainer. These retainers utilize a small screw to keep them from popping off in the event of an crash. These are, after all, Monster Trucks – there will be plenty of crashing.

STEP 19

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Re-attach the shocks to the lower links and, wah-lah. Your completed from clip should look like this! Ain’t she pretty?

STEP 20

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Attach your front end to the chassis; if you’re unsure, use STEP 4 and the three red arrows to remind you. This is also the time to re-attach the servo and servo horn. Use a dab of blue threadlocker on the four screws that attach the servo to the aluminum mounts to make sure they stay put.

STEP 21

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
I’ll be moving to the rear of the MAX-D, installing the parts shown here. The procedure will be pretty much the same as the front end; the only minor difference will be the lockouts. Be sure to pay attention to the WB8 center driveshaft coupler as well.

STEP 22

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Remove the rear clip; STEP 4 and the red arrows will help you out here. You’ll need to remove the anti-roll bar connections that attach at the lower link mount.

STEP 23

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Attach the AX31244 Axial Upper Link Plate Set and AX31245 Axial Lower Link Plate Set as well as the AX31433 Axial AR60 Machined Link Mounts.

STEP 24

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Remove the lockouts and pull the axles out slightly; this will allow you to remove the rear differential.

STEP 25

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
With the same procedure as the front, replace the stock gear with the AX30395 Axial Heavy Duty Diff Gear.

STEP 26

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Remove and replace the AX30395 Axial Heavy Duty Input Gear from the other side of the axle, then re-install the diff gear. Cap the opening off with the AX31429 Axial AR60 Machined High Clearance Differential Cover. Key the rear axles into the diff gear, then slide the AX30789 Axial AR60 OCP Aluminum Straight Axle Hub Carriers into place. These are an easy install; they are a straight fit and can’t be clocked like the front C-hub.

STEP 27

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
I replaced the plastic bits with the aluminum upgrades like I did with the front shocks.

STEP 28

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Boom – the rear clip is done! Your final assembly should look like this.

STEP 29

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Re-attach the rear clip and connect the anti-roll bar. Since we replaced the plastic link mounts with aluminum, you’ll want to add a small drop of blue threadlocker to help keep the anti-roll bar links in place.

STEP 30

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Alright – on to my favorite portion of the build, the electronics! Now, this is MAX-D – MAXIMUM DESTRUCTION – so I’m going big and replacing the stock brushed system with some serious Axial mojo; something Tom Meents would be proud of. I’ll be dropping in an AX24260 Axial AE-3 Vanguard Brushless ESC and AX31047 Axial Brushless 3150kV Motor. Since this is a pretty healthy upgrade, I see it only fitting to upgrade a couple other parts as well.

STEP 31

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
To make this part of the build easier, I started by removing the top part of the roll cage and interior.

STEP 32

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Here’s a better look at the ESC tray. We’ll get to it in a minute.

STEP 33

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Flip the MAX-D over and remove the four screws that hold the transmission in place. Axial uses two different screw lengths here so to make sure I get them back in the correct holes, I’ve added a little L (for Longer). Once the screws are out, unplug the motor and pull the whole transmission assembly out. It’s actually alot easier than it looks.

STEP 34

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Remove the gear cover followed by the motor and slipper assembly.

STEP 35

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Remove the stock motor place and replace with the AX30860 Axial Machined Motor Plate.

STEP 36

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Before attaching the spur gear, make sure you attach the AX31068 Axial Slipper Pads. They’re sticky-backed so they’re not reusable; we have to add new ones to our AX31163 Axial Steel Spur Gear 32P 56T. Re-assemble the slipper clutch. I would suggest tightening down the slipper nut quite a bit; the added power needs a tighter slipper.

The only drawback with the AX31047 Axial Brushless 3150kV Motor is the fact that it uses a 5mm output shaft; the stock motor uses a 3mm. This means you’ll need a new pinion gear. I didn’t want the MAX-D to just have more power, I wanted it to be fast as well, so I’m starting with a AX30839 13T 32P Pinion Gear. MO’ POWA ARH ARH ARH

STEP 37

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Now that I have a new heart for the MAX-D, it’s time to transplant it back in the truck. Remember to install the screws in the correct holes.

STEP 38

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Flip the SMT10 back over and remove the top to the receiver box. Carefully pull the stock ESC power lead out of the receiver and remove it from the truck.

STEP 39

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
Apply some double-sided tape to the bottom of the AX24260 Axial AE-3 Vanguard Brushless ESC and attach it to the ESC platform. Route the ESC power lead through the waterproof seal and into the receiver box as shown. Re-attach the receiver box lid.

Finally, plug the brushless motor wires into the ESC, matching the A-wire to the A-plug, the B-wire to the B-plug and the C-wire to the C-plug.

STEP 40

Axial MAX-D SMT10 Monster Truck Full Option Build
The final step is to re-attach both the interior and top of the roll cage. Looks super tough just sitting there! Time to go see what she can do!

Here’s the list of parts used in this article.

Front End
AX30395 Axial Heavy Duty Bevel Gear Set – 38T/13T
AX30762 Axial XR10 Aluminum C-Hub Carrier
AX31244 Axial Upper Link Plate Set
AX31245 Axial Lower Link Plate Set
AX31428 Axial AR60 Steering Upgrade Kit
AX31429 Axial AR60 Machined High Clearance Differential Cover
AX31430 Axial King Shocks Aluminum Caps and Collar Set – 12mm
AX31431 Axial Aluminum Shock Spring Retainer – 12mm
AX31432 Axial AR60 Machined Servo Plate and Mount Set
AX31433 Axial AR60 Machined Link Mounts
AX31434 Axial AR60 Machined Steering Knuckles

Mid-Section
AX24260 Axial AE-3 Vanguard Brushless ESC
AX30839 13T 32P Pinion Gear
AX30860 Axial Machined Motor Plate
AX31047 Axial Brushless 3150kV Motor
AX31068 Axial Slipper Pads
AX31163 Axial Steel Spur Gear 32P 56T

Rear End
AX30395 Axial Heavy Duty Bevel Gear Set – 38T/13T
AX30789 Axial AR60 OCP Aluminum Straight Axle Hub Carrier
AX31244 Axial Upper Link Plate Set
AX31245 Axial Lower Link Plate Set
AX31429 Axial AR60 Machined High Clearance Differential Cover
AX31430 Axial King Shocks Aluminum Caps and Collar Set – 12mm
AX31431 Axial Aluminum Shock Spring Retainer – 12mm
AX31433 Axial AR60 Machined Link Mounts

2016 Monster Jam World Finals – Las Vegas, NV

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Words and Photos by Anthony Rivas

Welcome to the Monster Jam World Finals, taking place here in Las Vegas, NV. Normally I would share the road trip or airport visit with you, but this is just across town so I’ll spare you the pics of traffic.

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So do you want to know what’s at Monster Jam World Finals? I will start by saying a lot! More than I could possibly show you in one blog. Of course you will see Monster Trucks both past and present.

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If you don’t follow Monster Jam this may look like an ordinary truck, other than the body is on backwards. You might be right.

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Soldier of Fortune camp had some very cool military rigs.

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Like this beast; I am not really sure if it’s a trike or motorcycle, but I know it looks fun!

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How many of you could use something like this? I can admit that I don’t need it, but I sure would like to have it.

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Maybe you’ll recognize some of these trucks. Or maybe you wont, but maybe you will find them as cool as I do.

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I think you could make a monster truck out of most anything if you have the imagination. I wont venture to guess the cost though, but can you really put a price tag on fun?

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Wild Flower really jumps out with all the vibrant colors.

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Ice Cream anyone?!

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American Sniper kind of draws you in, even with all of the other monster trucks around.

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The Avenger body is a work of art. It can’t be easy making a body look this weathered.

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There are plenty of snacks and food on the premises. No lines so take advantage of the Double Down package! Check out Monsterjam.com to learn about this offer.

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Gas Monkey Garage jumped out at me too. There is just so much to see.

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One of the Zombie trucks on display, complete with two zombies.

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Drivers are signing autographs and taking pics with fans.

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Ride trucks are an option too!

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The entertainment zone is just that, there are quad races, freestyle bicycles, and motorcycles going on at the moment. Non stop entertainment here.

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I believe there are over 100 monster trucks here.

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There is even a Monster Jam video game. I am convinced that everything Monster truck can be found here, probably even more than you realize.

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When I think Monster Jam I think of screaming motors, side by side racing, and big jumps.

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The Young Guns get to battle it out for a spot in the big show.

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The height these trucks reach on a jump is amazing, I am not sure the pictures do them justice.

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Drivers wow the crowd with some very nice saves. The other side of Monster Jam would have to be the spectacular freestyle event.

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These drivers come in with big air and really put on a show!

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The crowd roars when destruction seems inevitable and the drivers save it.

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Malfunctioning rear steer and Max-D still puts on a show. The crowd cheers as he goes big. The fans are getting their money’s worth for sure.

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The freestyle course is open to whatever you can make happen.

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You’re already in a Monster truck, now imagine looking straight up. A little nerve racking, right?!

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El Toro Loco black kicking up dust in this cyclone. The crowd gets pumped up with every rotation of the truck.

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Its deafening in here as this Monster Truck pulls off a backflip. Everyone jumps to their feet.

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Big air did lead to some destruction.

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At the end of the night you can tell these guys really enjoy what they do. Like Zombie driver Bari Musawwir.

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Bari is really into RC Monster Trucks as well as being a professional full size driver. He has invited 16 drivers from around the US who are also here for the RC Monster Jam World Finals.

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Here is the field. 32 replica builds of the 1:1 monster trucks that are here to compete.

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Here are the dedicated 16 drivers. These guys have built 2 replica trucks each and in true monster truck fashion some have even brought back ups.

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Just like the 1:1 they have a Thunder Alley and fully functioning tree.

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Did you ever think to use Axial AR60s on a Monster Truck?

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Just like the real trucks, there was a day of qualifying in both lanes.

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A lot of these guys are carpet racers so the dirt took some getting used too.

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A race could be decided in the corners, so some pushed while others found their limits.

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These guys were looking for traction anywhere.

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Some had a favorite lane and some just adapted their driving style.

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When race day came around these trucks had some people coming by to see how their mini version was doing.

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Monster Energy truck driver Coty Saucier came to check out the Mini Monster Jam.

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Grave Digger Purple driver Adam Anderson.

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Son uva Digger driver Ryan Anderson – also a crowd favorite.

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Madusa drivers Debrah Miceli and Young Guns driver Brianna Mahon coming to see what the Mini Jam is all about.

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This was also a chance for the RC builders like Leigh Guarnieri to meet the 1:1 drivers like Donald Epidendio.

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FS1 Cleatus driver Frank Krmel paid the track a visit and checked things out.

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Soldier of Fortune driver Tony Ochs said he may have to get one of these.

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Monster Mutt Rottweiler driver Rod Schmidt giving a thumbs up of approval.

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Monster Mutt Dalmatian driver Candice Jolly stopped by as well.

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Monster Mutt driver Charlie Pauken was on hand also.

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Doom’s Day driver…

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Gerardo Gonzales and his Axial AX10 Deadbolt platform Grave Digger Chrome take the win 2 days in a row in the side by side racing.

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Well the masses have gathered here on the third day of the RC Monster Jam World Finals for the freestyle event.

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The drivers did a parade lap, just like you see at the 1:1 Monster Jam.

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These guys came to see big air and cheer on their favorite trucks.

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You can see the shock these trucks are taking on impact from the insane amounts of air these guys are catching.

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Drivers are throwing everything they have at the freestyle course.

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Just like their 1:1 counterparts these guys are throwing backflips in the mix. Grave Digger Chrome above and Overkill Evolution going really big pictured below.

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Big air will bring some destruction.

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Some lucky fans were given a treat. The RC drivers had the 1:1 drivers give the RC shells to the crowd!

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Bari Musawwir also Doubling Down and giving the fans a show with the RC monster truck Zombie.

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Big air and leaving nothing to chance, he was putting on a show and having fun!

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Talking to the 3 celebrity judges as he makes his way off course, still smiling.

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Here are 14 of the 16 dedicated RC Monster truck drivers after 3 days of competition. Now it’s their turn to go watch the big show, Monster Jam World Finals Freestyle.

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Bari Musawwir Driver of Zombie – 2011 Rookie of the Year, 2012 Young Guns Champion, and nominated for the 2016 Arena Freestyle Driver of the Year. Win, lose, or draw he wants fans to enjoy the show. He is living his dream; he was actually an RC driver before being approached to drive full size Monster Trucks. So do what you enjoy and always have fun. You never know where it will lead you!