Simple Honcho Interior Install

Simple_Honcho_Interior_Install
The Trail Honcho has been a long time favorite for RC off-road enthusiasts. It has an all business look with the large plate shielded front bumper, its recognizable cab and it’s tough cage rear section. When the SCX10 II Trail Honcho was announced, drivers enthusiasm again surged for this iconic machine in the scale crawling world. But this writer still felt it needed a little something else. You see, inside of that cool extended cab is, well, empty. You look into the windows and you see wires, a motor and a transmission case. Now the new transmission case does have a cool new scale look to it, however, it’s not something you’d expect to see if you looked into a cab of a scale truck. There should be an interior right? Agreed! So I started sifting through possible options for an interior. Drivers who run the SCX10 II 2017 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited CRC use the 2012 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon Body as an interior. But there isn’t anything that is a true close fit such as that example. First I took a Deadbolt Body and held it up to the Honcho. This seemed like an ok option and then out of the corner of my eye was a 1/10 Yeti RTR interior. This interior seemed to fill the space in the Honcho cab a bit better. Interior found! In this Tech how to, we’ll show you just how easy it is to adapt the Yeti interior into the Trail Honcho for a better scale appearance.
Axial Honcho Interior 1

PARTS NEEDED
Y-380 1/10th Scale Interior – AX31141
Helmet Set (Black) – AX31049
Misc. Hardware
2-sided Tape

Axial Honcho Interior 2
TOOLS NEEDED
Reamer or Drill with bits
Permanent Marker
Polycarbonate Paint

PREPARATION
In this how to, we’re using an Interior from a 1/10 Yeti Ready To Run which comes painted. If you’ve purchased the Yeti interior as a stand alone part, you’ll need to paint it yourself. Take the time to wash the lexan with soap and water before painting it. Paint in a well ventilated area and take your time and paint the body and or helmets to meet your custom scale needs.

STEP 1
Axial Honcho Interior 3
We want to secure the interior to the Honcho with screws so we need to decide where those screws should be located. To hide the screws as best as possible, we’re going to locate the mounting points in the hood vent area. Using the marker, place a dot where you will drill the holes.

STEP 2
Axial Honcho Interior 4
Using your reamer or a drill bit, drill a hole on each side of the body in the vent decal area where your mounting points will be. The holes should be slightly larger in diameter to the hardware you’ve selected to use.

STEP 3
Axial Honcho Interior 6
To help position the interior we’ve placed two small pieces of two sided tape on each side of the body to secure the interior. This will allow us to move and tweak its position before we use screws to mount it permanently.

STEP 4
Axial Honcho Interior 5
Once the interior is in position, press it down firmly to secure it to the two-sided tape on the body.

STEP 5
Axial Honcho Interior 7
Now that the interior is in place, you can use your reamer or drill bit to open a hole in the interior, using the hole you previously made in the hood as a guide.

STEP 6
Axial Honcho Interior 8
With holes in the body and interior, you can secure the two together using the hardware of your choice. We found some small 1.6mm screws and nuts in our spares bin. Using smaller hardware looks a bit more scale.

STEP 7
Axial Honcho Interior 11
We’re not going to go through all the motions again to tell you how to make a hole, so we’ll give you the basic rundown on how to secure the rear. We chose to drill a hole through the “Keyhole” on the Honcho’s door handles as the spot to locate the hardware that will secure the interior in the rear. We then ran a long drill bit into the interior and drilled a pilot hole. With some long screws we found in our hardware bin and some plastic nuts and shoulder spacers we found in our Axial spares bag, we secured the back half of the interior on each side.
Axial Honcho Interior 9

FINISHED
A few Axial option parts, a little paint and just a few minutes with some basic hobby tools and hardware you probably have lying around, you now have an interior for your Honcho that fills the cab space and hides all of the inner workings of the SCX10.
Axial Honcho Interior 10

Axial SCX10 II Deadbolt YouTube Video Collection

SCX10II_Deadbolt_Video_Collection

With all of the different social media platforms out there, didn’t you ever just wish you could find all of the cool videos of a certain RC rig all in one spot? Yeah, us too. So we took the liberty of doing the hard works and scoured social media to find some great videos of the Axial SCX10 Deadbolt. There were certainly a lot of great videos out there, but these stood out. In this Deadbolt Video Collection you’ll find everything from videos that give you all the details you’ll need to know about the truck, to exciting action segments and even tips to help you tune the scale trail machine.


By: Axial Racing
Title: Axial AX90066 SCX10™ II Deadbolt RTR
Video Description: Time to rule the rocks with some attitude! We’ve combined the rugged good looks of the Deadbolt™ with the exceptional handling of the trail-ready SCX10™ II chassis, giving you a rig that’s got both charisma and competence. The Deadbolt™ body is now coated with an olive drab paint scheme while keeping the original features you’ve come to love about it; narrow stance, bulging hood, realistic driver figure and exterior cage complete with light bar (LED lights sold separately). Finalizing the look is a licensed CRC front bumper and Method Hole wheels wrapped in Nitto Trail Grappler tires.


By: Scale Builder Guild
Title: Axial Deadbolt 2 – Start your Adventure HERE!
Video Description: Today I talk about the latest SCX10 II release from Axial, the Deadbolt 2. It’s an excellent place to start your journey into scale accurate builds, for the lowest price of entry. I think there’s a lot of potential here, so much so that this will be the next project build going forward!


By: Harley Designs
Title: Axial Deadbolt 2 – Free Modifications
Video Description: The Axial SCX10-II Deadbolt is the most budget friendly option they offer, so lets cover some free mods to get your rig handling even better on the cheap!


By: RCDriver_Online
Title: RC Trail Truck Favorite Gets A 2018 Overhaul! – Axial SCX10 II Deadbolt Running & Review
Video Description: The Axial Racing SCX10 Deadbolt has been a favorite trail truck for many RC off-road enthusiasts. This truck typically is the most affordable of the Axial offerings and is backed up with a cool look and great performance. Many chose the Gen 1 SCX10 Deadbolt for fun trail runs or the base machine for their wild trail truck builds. Well, it’s sad to hear the Gen 1 Deadbolt has been discontinued, but luckily it’s getting replaced here in 2018 with the SCX10 II Deadbolt! The new Deadbolt gets the new high performance SCX10 II platform with the same Deadbolt body we all fell in love with with a few slight style chanced like the color. This new Gen Deadbolt still has the affordable price tag too, so we can see it carrying on as a favorite for those getting into the RC trail truck world and those looking for a platform to start their next adventure build. In this video, we take a quick look back at the Gen 1 Deadbolt, followed by a feature breakdown of the new Deadbolt, then take it for a run and wrap up the video with a performance report.


By: SNOWMOD RC
Title: SNOWMOD RC – AXIAL DEADBOLT 2(FIRST RUN)
Video Description: SNOWMOD RC takes out the newest addition to the lineup from Axial Racing, the AX90066 Deadbolt 2! What a great rig with lots of new updates.

 

Axial Deadbolt and Wrangler CRC Bumper Mod

CRC_Bumper_Mod

As you continue to grow into your Axial SCX10 II and become more comfortable driving the rig, you’ll want to progress your adventures beyond daily driving. When doing this, you’ll start to think more about approach angles to obstacles and this is when things like the scale replica bumper on the truck may hold you back. Sure the bumper looks cool, but it’s overhang may prevent you from getting over some tough terrain. When you reach this point, you might want to consider modifying your bumper. Here we’re going to go over a CRC bumper modification that many seasoned scale drivers are already doing. You’ll need a few basic tools you may already have on hand and just a little bit of time at your workbench. Let’s get started.

TOOLS NEEDED
2.0mm Hex Driver
Lexan Scissors
Drill & 2.5mm drill bit
Dremel tool with sanding drum

BEFORE WE BEGIN
Axial CRC Bumper Mod 2
Before you jump right into your bumper modification, let’s take a look at the stock bumpers position, just so you can see how much it has moved once the mod is complete.

STEP 1
Axial CRC Bumper Mod 3
Using a 2mm hex driver, remove the two screw pins that hold the bumper to its mount.

STEP 2
Axial CRC Bumper Mod 4
Using a marker, mark the area that will need to be cut away from the original bumper in order to move it farther back in the chassis. Note, you’ll want to clear the chassis rails, so make sure you start your marks on the outside of the frame rails.

STEP 3
Axial CRC Bumper Mod 5
Using a pair of Lexan scissors, cut along the line you marked on the bumper. Be aware that there are thin support tabs in the bumper that will need to be cut as well.

STEP 4
Axial CRC Bumper Mod 6
Toss scrap plastic and if you wish, clean up the cut edges on the bumper with a Dremel tool and sanding drum. Be sure to wear eye protection.

STEP 5
Axial CRC Bumper Mod 7
The thin support plastic tabs you cut through before are also located on the top side of the bumper posts. These will need to be cut away too, to allow the bumper to slide further into the mount. Using straight scissors, cut the tab close to the post and close to the bumper plate.

STEP 6
Axial CRC Bumper Mod 8
Now you can “rip” the rest of the little support tabs out with a pair of needle nose pliers.

CHECK YOUR WORK
Axial CRC Bumper Mod 9
With the bumper cut up and the tabs removed, insert the bumper to make sure your cuts were enough. We have plenty of room here to cut the ends of the mounting posts and move the bumper even farther back.

STEP 8
Axial CRC Bumper Mod 10
With a pair of side-cutters, cut the ends of the bumper posts off at the last hole.

STEP 9
Axial CRC Bumper Mod 11
We’re getting close to finishing. Insert the bumper as far back as it will go in the mount, making sure it’s square to the chassis. Take your drill with 2.5mm bit and drill new holes into the bumper posts using the holes in the chassis mount as a guide.

STEP 10
Axial CRC Bumper Mod 12
Grab the bumper mounting screw pins and screw your bumper back in place in the new set back location.

DONE
Axial CRC Bumper Mod 13
The bumper relocation is complete. See how much closer it is to the battery mount? You’ve now reduced the amount of front bumper overhang and should be able to approach steeper obstacles to conquer.
Axial CRC Bumper Mod 14

Tech: Soften Your SCX10 II Suspension – For Free!

SoftenSCX10II_Suspension

Recently we walked you through an inexpensive way to lower the CG on your SCX10 II in our SCX10 II Handling Adjustment blog. With some hardware and a little time, the rigs handling was improved for those looking to get more performance out of their trucks. Now we have another suggestion to improve handling even more and this modification is completely free, as long as you don’t charge for your shop time. This modification is to soften the suspension on the SCX10 II and it’s done by just moving parts around that are already on the truck. The rear suspension has softer springs that will be moved to the front and medium rate springs to the rear. The shock positions will then be moved in the rear to give them a softer feel. It’s pretty simple, only requires a few tools and just a little bit of time.

TOOLS NEEDED
Kit Box Wrench
2mm Hex Driver

STEP 1
Axial Suspension 2
Like many steps in customizing your rig, step one here is to remove the wheels. First unscrew the “Locker” caps, followed by the 7mm wheel nuts using your box wrench.

STEP 2
Axial Suspension 3
Let’s start at the front and remove the lower shock mounting screw from the AR44 axle  with the 2mm hex driver. With the shock dangling, slip the spring perch off the bottom of the shock and remove the soft springs.

STEP 3
Axial Suspension 4
Now move to the rear of the machine and using your 2mm hex driver, remove the upper and lower shock mounting screws.

STEP 4
Axial Suspension 5
Here are the front medium rate springs next to the rear shocks. You can just see the difference in the springs thickness. You’ll want to remove the lower perches from the shocks and swap the springs.

Axial Suspension 6
The softer springs are now set on the rear shocks and ready for installation.

STEP 5
Axial Suspension 7
So the rear springs don’t roll off your workbench, now would be a great time to reinstall them back on the front shocks, slip the perches on and screw the lower shock mount back onto the AR44 axle.

STEP 6
Axial Suspension 9
Back to the rear of the rig. Start by removing the shock hoops front the frame. We’re going to take them off the one side and reinstall them on the opposite side in a bit.

STEP 7
Axial Suspension 10
Before reinstalling the shock hoops, the center cross brace needs to be moved. Take it from its stock location and push it forward to the forwardmost holes. This is where the new hoop locations will be.

Axial Suspension 11
The cross brace in the new location.

STEP 8
Axial Suspension 12
The shock hoops can be installed now. Remember, you have to swap the hoops from side to side.

Axial Suspension 13
Once the hoops are in the new position, you won’t even have to relocate the body mounts, they will be in the right factory location. Bonus!

STEP 9
Axial Suspension 14
Time to bolt the shocks back in place. Screw the top of the shock into the forwardmost hole.

STEP 10
Axial Suspension 15
Mount the lower shock mount to the AR44 axles. The shock will now be on a “lay down” angle. The angle of the shock gives the shocks a softer feel while it’s compressing, thus making it feel like it has a softer spring.

SEE THE DIFFERENCE
That modification was pretty simple and probably took you under ten minutes to complete. Now the trucks suspension will have a softer feel and allow it to compress as it goes over rocks and obstacles easier. Take a look at the difference below.

Axial Suspension 1
Before | Stock shock set-up

Axial Suspension 16
After | Springs swapped and rear shock angle change

SCX10 II Handling Adjustment – $3 Shock Mod

SCX10II_HandlingAdjustment

We’re guessing by now you’ve logged a lot of miles on your SCX10 II ready to run rig. The truck has probably served you well tackling new terrain wherever your adventure takes you. So what’s next? How about improving your rig for better handling on those to tough to conquer trails. The stock out of the box SCX10 II is set up for general scale trail use, but the highly capable platform can improve as you improve and the tuning trick we’re about to show you will cost you just a few bucks and will take less than ten minutes of your time to complete. What we’re going to do here is lower the CG of the SCX10 II by simply relocating the lower shock mounting point. The shock end comes mounted to the axle on its own mounting boss. But, by relocating it to the same mounting point as the lower link, it lowers the overall Center Of Gravity of the chassis and a lower COG equals better handling. Let’s get started!

WHAT YOU NEED
axa120
3x25mm Button Head Machine Screw- AXA120
3mm Thin Nylon-Lock Nut- AXA1052 (Optional)
Basic hobby tools- 2.0mm hex driver, wheel nut wrench and long nose pleirs

Step 1
SCX Shock Mod 1
Let’s get the easy stuff out of the way. Remove the wheel nut caps, wheel nuts, wheels and lower shock mount screws from all four corners of your SCX10 II.

Step 2
SCX Shock Mod 2
Now, remove the screw that secures the link to the axle and place it in your spare hardware bin.

Step 3
SCX Shock Mod 3
Take the new long 3x25mm button head screw that you spent a whole $3 on and insert it through the shock end, into the axle mount with the link in place and screw it all the way in.

Step 4 (Option)
SCX Shock Mod 4
The screw will be secure as it has been screwed into the plastic axle mounting boss. But if you want to go one step further in security to make sure that screw doesn’t back out, you can add a thing 3mm Ny-Lock nut to the end of the screw. Tighten the nut snug.

Step 5
Repeat Step 2-4 for the remaining shock/ link points.

Step 6
Reinstall your wheels, nuts and caps.

SEE THE DIFFERENCE
SCX Shock Mod 6
You can see above, the left shock is in the stock location and the right shock has been relocated to the new position in-line with the lower link. The axle is also visibly lowered on the right side in the photo. Once all four shocks have been relocated and the truck turned upright, the chassis will now be lower in comparison to the stock position.

BACK TO THE TRAIL
Now you’re ready to head back out and try and navigate some of those tough terrain features that may have defeated you prior. With the lower CG, your rig will benefit from the modification. Keep in mind, this will not be a night and day difference. You still need to choose your lines and wheel speed wisely. Make sure you keep checking back to the Axial blogs as we’ll continue to offer tuning secrets to help your SCX10 II improve as you improve. #AxialPerformance

Axial Deadbolt AX90066 Simple Body and Bumper Mod

Axial Deadbolt AX90066 Simple Body and Bumper Mod
The Axial AX90066 Deadbolt is an extremely popular body style, and we’re constantly pulling spare plastic out of our parts bins to try and create a few simple body mods.

The first is something we’ve been asked about for a long time – why doesn’t the Deadbolt come with a rear bumper. Well, say no more – check out this great little how to on adding a simple rear bumper to the back of your Deadbolt.

TOOLS NEEDED:
1. 1.5mm Hex Wrench
2. 2.0mm Hex Wrench
3. Side cutters
4. Dremel (to help clean up the bumper)

LIST OF PARTS USED:
AX80125 Axial SCX10 Poison Spyder JK Brawler Lite Front Bumper

Step 1

Axial Deadbolt AX90066 Simple Body and Bumper Mod
Here are the two parts we’ll be installing; a front bumper and bumper mount. We’ll use the original hardware included with your Deadbolt to re-mount the parts.

Step 2

Axial Deadbolt AX90066 Simple Body and Bumper Mod
Using the side cutters, clip the hoop off the bumper. Here’s where you can use the Dremel to clean up the bumper. If you have a thin pair of side cutters, you might be able to clip close to the bumper and not require any Dremel work.

Step 3

Axial Deadbolt AX90066 Simple Body and Bumper Mod
Remove the stock rear bumper and install the AX80125 mount. Use the stock hardware to lock it in place.

Step 4

Axial Deadbolt AX90066 Simple Body and Bumper Mod
Slide your freshly modified rear bumper into the mount and secure with the stock hardware.

Step 5

Axial Deadbolt AX90066 Simple Body and Bumper Mod
Set your body on top and examine your handiwork. Your Deadbolt now has a rear bumper that even includes light buckets!

Step 6

Axial Deadbolt AX90066 Simple Body and Bumper Mod
But wait – there’s more! If you have a set of D-rings lying around, you can add those to the rear bumper to help pull your buddies out if they get stuck!


This second mod came about after a couple of us found that getting to the rear body clips can be a bit of a pain if you have chunky hands. This mod will not only make it super easy to get to them, it also give provisions for adding a scale rear tire.

TOOLS NEEDED:
1. 2.0mm Hex Wrench
2. Side cutters
3. Dremel (to help clean up the bumper)

LIST OF PARTS USED:
AXA0147 M3x16mm Hex Socket Flat Head Screw
AXA1052 M3 Thin Nylon Locking Hex Nut
AXA0422 M2.6x6mm Hex Socket Tapping Button Screw
AX31305 TT-380 Rear Lower Cage and Tire Retainer
AX80130 Roll Cage Sides

Step 1

Axial Deadbolt AX90066 Simple Body and Bumper Mod
Remove the body – as you can see, it’s a little tough getting to the rear body pins with sausage fingers.

Step 2

Axial Deadbolt AX90066 Simple Body and Bumper Mod
Here are the parts you’ll need. Any spare tire will work with this mod (as long as it’s a 1.9). It’s also suggested that you remove the foam insert as well. You’ll see more about this later.

Step 3

Axial Deadbolt AX90066 Simple Body and Bumper Mod
Mount the tire to the cage by inserting your 16mm screw through the washer, then through the tire. Note the orientation of the mount; this setup mounts the tire low in the bed for the best performance. If you want to allow a little more room for, say, some scale items, flip the plastic mount as shown in the picture below (you’ll need at least a 30mm screw to attach the rear tire).

Axial Deadbolt AX90066 Simple Body and Bumper Mod

Step 4

Axial Deadbolt AX90066 Simple Body and Bumper Mod
Secure the tire in place with a M3 locknut. If you’re feeling really sassy, you can use the AX31320 Axial Bomber Rear Tire Hold Down for a super trick look!

Step 5

Axial Deadbolt AX90066 Simple Body and Bumper Mod
Remove the screws from the stock cage (see the pretty red arrows). Make sure you remove them from BOTH sides of the Deadbolt.

Step 6

Axial Deadbolt AX90066 Simple Body and Bumper Mod
Using the side cutters, chop off the rear part of the cage as shown. You can use a Dremel here to clean up the cut or just leave it be.

Step 7

Axial Deadbolt AX90066 Simple Body and Bumper Mod
Attach your rear tire mount to the cage, flip it up and secure with the M2.6×6 screws. Tightening these down will help keep the rear cage in place, just be sure not to over-tighten them.

Step 8

Axial Deadbolt AX90066 Simple Body and Bumper Mod
Lower the cage all the way to the body, and ‘pinch’ the tire in-between the cage. This is where a tire without the foam insert will help hold the flip-cage in place a little better.

Step 9

Axial Deadbolt AX90066 Simple Body and Bumper Mod
Now, swing the cage up to install the body pins. Brilliant, right?

Skeeno’s Axialfest 2018 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Build

After AXIALFEST2017, I started thinking that I needed to update my trailing rig.  Last year, I built a new racer for for the Altra Ultra 5K Enduro, but I needed something new to run on all the trials at AXIALFEST2018.

1

As luck would have it, Brown Santa dropped off some Green Tape just before the Christmas season.  Merry Christmas to me!

2

When I opened up the box, it was packed with the new SCX10 2 2017 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited CRC.  This would be a great new trailing rig for AXIALFEST2018!

5

My buddy, Mr. Werty over at WertyMade contacted me as soon as he found out I had the new rig.  He wanted to use it as a test mule for some parts he was making; rear bumpers, front bumpers, and rock sliders. Since we’ve been RC nerd friends for many years, I happily agreed to lend him my new trailing rig.

4

He returned it to me in even better than tip top shape.  All the parts he test fitted, he left on there for me, score!  I immediately started thinking about the things I wanted to modify and add to improve the performance and looks of the 2017 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited CRC. First up was to get a spare tire and some RotopaX on the rear bumper.

6

Mr. Werty repossessed those D Rings, so that was one item I wanted to replace on that sweet front stinger.

7

Check out those sweet sliders, indexed to hold the body, just like the stock plastic ones, but these are made out of steel.  The wrench logo in a nice touch, too.

8

Next up was a new set of socks and shoes.  I’ve always liked beadlocks and the classic Axial 1.9 Beadlocks were my first choice.  Just as I got the wheels, Werty annouced these new Wrench Rings, and I just had to have a set.

9

Look how awesome the rings look.

10

In order to add a little crawling performance, I like to add some weight in the wheels to lower the center of gravity.  The Axial Internal Rings are a perfect fit. I also swapped out to a slightly beefier looking tire, the BFG All-Terrains are a classic tire and the KO2 version is even better than the original.

11

They mount up easily, and you can adjust the weight using the inserts.

12

At this point, I was loving this wheel/tire/ring combo, but I wasn’t digging looking at the electronics through the wheel wells.

13

It was starting to look pretty good, but I still had a ways to go.

14

Next up, I needed to add some swag to the rear.

15

Since I wasn’t using the stock Nitto Trail Grabbers, I pressed one into service as the spare tire.

16

Next, I hit up my local hobby shop, CKRC Hobbies and picked up these RotopaX gas cans from Scale by Chris AKA SBC.

IMG_20180411_203425

Don’t worry, the tire rack swings away, so you can still get into the back of the Jeep.

17

Another modification I like to do is the 3654 Mod to the wheel hexes.  Eazy Elio from Two Chainz Scalerz taught me this trick to give any Axial scaler a slighly wider stance. Since the stock hexes are about 3mm, this modification adds about 10mm of width to the SCX10 2.

18

While I was at CKRC picking up the SBC RotopaX cans, I spotted these brass 8mm hexes from Team KNK. It might be slight, but the brass hexes will also lower the center of gravity slighty.

19

They fit perfectly and come with new wheel nuts and set screws to secure them to the axles.

20

Next up was adding some wheel wells to hide the electronics.  I used the wheel wells for the original SCX10.

21

They aren’t a perfect fit, but with a little creativity with the scissors, they worked out pretty well.

22

The curve of the Jeep Wrangler body means you have to trim the fronts quite a bit.

23

I ended up trimming that front tab off because I was worried it would hang up on twigs and things on the trail.

24

After a little black paint, they look great.

25

Black helps hide all the imperfections.

26

That’s WAY better than before; no more unsightly wires can be seen under there.

IMG_20180411_203118

I almost forgot to mention this cool feature on the WertyMade bumper. Those four holes are for mounting a rear winch if you want one…

IMG_20180411_203344

And that hole is a bottle opener for those times when you need to hydrate during wrenching sessions!

27

Next, it was time to add a some interior to give it a little more scale look, as well as to hide the electronics a little more.  I heard from the Anthony Rivas of Rivas Concepts and Matt Kett from the Scale Builders Guild that the 2012 Jeep Wrangler body was a perfect fit.

38

Sadly, I had to kill a perfectly good body.  If you want to try this, you can probably find an old body from one of your local RC buddies to cut up.

28

Be sure to cut around the lights and fender flares.

29

The rear view mirror mounting holes make a great mounting point.  The two screws hold the front securely.

30

I found that the door handle impressions lined up perfectly and made getting it in evenly easy.

31

I cut a big hole to allow for the rear body mounts to pass through.

32

Don’t worry, with the tinted rear windows, you can only see it if you are staring directly into the rear windows.

33

Looking good so far. Time for paint.

35

I wavered between black, red, and silver before settling on the silver.  I was happy with my choice because the bright color makes the interior pop against the red.

36

That’s what I’m talking about.  No more unsightly electrics can be seen in there.

39

Earlier, I got distracted by that big open space in the front bumper. TIme to remedy that.

40

I pulled the winch off my old SCX10 and it mounted up easily.  It even had a matching red hook.

42

Oh yeah! that looks way better with the winch in there.

43

I found some D rings on some old parts trees to replace the ones Mr. Werty repossessed. I even put one on the rear bumper.

44

Back to the interior.  Sticker time!

45

I kept it pretty simple in here.  The only thing I added was the steering wheel I had in my parts box.  Low Rider Style with the chain ring.

46

Boom!

47

Bam! The silver and black really contrasts well against the red.

48

There it is mounted up, two screws through the mirror holes and a little tape hold it in.

dsfdfas

There’s the mirror screws holding the mirrors on and the interior in.

49

I also found some wipers on the spare parts tree and mounted them up.

50

I really like the clean looks of it.

51 She’s just about ready to conquer all the trails at AXIALFEST2018!

56

I just wanted to add a couple more scale details.  First I added the molded door handles.

IMG_20180427_203454 (1)

A bonus of the door handles is they also hold the interior in place.

57

Then, I added the molded hood latches.  Both of these come on the spare parts trees in the box.

123

I had to give it a quick trail run to test it out.

cover

I must say, this rig handles amazingly well.

58I’m thinking this rig is going to be amazing at AXIALFEST2018!

IMG_20180511_175951

One last item before I wrap up this build.  I need a few more lumens than the stock headlights, so I decided to add the JRC Offroad Roof Rack.

IMG_20180511_180920

Looks pretty good up there even though it’s originally meant for the 2000 Jeep Cherokee.

IMG_20180512_155745

The Rigid Light Bar fits perfectly up there.

IMG_20180514_181714

 

I used the 8 String LED and 3 Port High Output LED Controller.

IMG_20180514_182544

I’m really loving the look and capabilities of this rig.

 

IMG_20180514_182655

I’m definitely ready to emark on the adventures that Axialfest 2018 holds. I just wish July 18th would get here already!

 

Axialfest Trail Rig Prep

adventures_Axialfest-Trail-Rig-Prep_500px

Before you know it, Axialfest will be upon us and the last thing you want to worry about is preparing just a few days before you embark on your adventure. You want to have your adventure vehicle ready to go and ready to take on the terrain without failure ahead of time. Yes, Axial vehicles are built tough, but taking the time to have your rig ready will ensure more fun on the trail. We’ve gathered up a number of tips to help get your rig ready from what hardware to use, to driveline tips and things you may need along the way.

AF18 Trail Prep4

Hardware Check

Set-Screws- Set-screws can be a headache in the RC world, they are used in several areas on just about any rig. The most common is the pinion gear. If the set-screw goes into metal, it’s a good idea to add some blue thread locking compound to it before installing it. The thread locking compound is a measure to ensure the screw doesn’t back out during use.

Lock-nut- Early SCX10’s used standard nuts in several locations and perhaps you’ve installed a nut or two along the way while working on or customizing your truck. Consider swapping out all standard nuts with ny-lock nuts. These nuts have a plastic insert ring that helps prevent the nut from backing off of the screw.

Machine Screws- Machine screws have a much finer thread than a self-tapping screw. This finer thread often offers more “bite” into a part for extra security. Consider using machines screws wherever you can. And like that pesky set-screw, always use blue thread-locking compound on machine screws that go into metal so they don’t vibrate out while in use.

AF18 Trail Prep3

Driveline Tips

Screw Pins- Screw pins are often used to secure the universal yokes to the axle drive pinions, if your rig doesn’t have them and you have a through-hole in the bevel pinion shaft, go with a screw-pin instead of a set-screw. This will ensure drive instead of a set-screw that can back out and slip. Use thread-lock here too of course.

Universals- We’ve seen some torn-up universals in our day. These components take a lot of abuse. Replacing the cross-pins before your many Axialfest adventures can be a good idea. At the very least, check your universals for binding or regrease them if they look dry.

Bearings- Do you want to be “The Squeaky Guy?” Bearings take a lot of abuse and as they get covered in dirt or submerged in water, you risk the chance of bearing failure. If you hear squeaking, consider cleaning your bearings, blast them with a cleaner and re-oil them. Some go so far as to repack the bearing with grease. A bad bearing can eventually wreak havoc on your driveline on the trail. Fix it before it causes other possibly more expensive problems.

Gears- This is an important topic here. Many of crunchy transmissions have been heard along the trails at Axialfest. During your pretrip check, take a look at all of the gears. Do any look sharp, missing parts of their teeth, is your gearcase full of metal dust? Don’t leave it to a trail run to find our you needed to replace gears. In the axles, make sure the gear lash is correct between the bevel pinion and ring gear. Shims may be used to adjust gear lash. Inside of the center transmission, make sure your gears are well lubricated with grease. If you do have plastic internal gears, on your SCX10, consider upgrading to the metal gears, here is the link for the upgrade: HERE And finally, your pinion and spur. Make sure your mesh is correct, not too loose that your gears can skip and not too tight that it binds.

Slipper- Your slipper clutch is often the line of defense to protecting your transmission. When your rig gets caught up in a gap in the rocks and you pin the throttle, the slipper will slip rather than the gears skipping. You want the slipper tight enough so you get through gnarly obstacles, but you do need that slip for protection. A little trial and error works here in terms of setting. Always lean toward the loose side to start with.

Grease- As mentioned above a number of times. Grease, grease grease. Grease the gears, consider greasing the bearings, add grease to metal shafts inside of the axles, grease universal joints. Grease will keep these parts smooth and offer some protection from the elements.

AF18 Trail Prep2

Waterproof Everything

Specific Electronics- Axialfest is known to have some water encounters and as you know water and electronics don’t mix. Most ready to run electronics are waterproof or water resistant but if you’re running something from an older build date or have swapped out your electronics for something non-WP, you might consider taking some precautions to waterproofing your equipment. Seal the servo case with silicone, put a bead of grease around servo output shafts. ESC’s are a bit more difficult to waterproof using silicone as the heatsink area is an area where water can get in. Brushed motors can get wet, just prep by oiling the bearings or bushings.

Radio Box Sealing- The radio box is often the home for items that can be damaged by water or debris. The receiver, lighting module or winch controller are often placed in radio boxes. But water can still get inside unless you seal it up. Use a bead of silicone or grease to seal off any gaps that will allow water to enter the box.

Axialfest night

Light It Up

Why You Need Them- Some of the best adventures on the rocks at Cisco Grove happen at night. The night driving element is very challenging and you’ll see drivers out on the rocks until all hours of the morning. You’ll want to consider adding as much lighting to you and your rig as possible.

Options- Headlight and taillight kits are obvious and selecting the right one really depends on the type of body you run. The other option are light bars. Light bars are a pretty simple bolt on light system to install and many plug right into the receiver for power. Another option to consider are well lights. Those are lights in the wheel wells so you can see exactly what type of terrain your rig is going over. There are plenty of lights to choose from in the Axial options list. You can find more on lights: HERE  Then there are the lights for you. A head-lamp is a great source of light to blaze through the trails. Some fashion flashlights to their radios with tape or rubber bands. Get creative with your lights, but whatever you choose, make sure it’s enough to light the way for long periods of time.

AF18 Trail Prep1

What To Carry

Parts Supplies- Beyond prepping your rig for the trails, you should prep for those what if moments. What if a screw falls out, what if a part breaks. It’s a good idea to carry a small parts bin of hardware with you at all times. Pack the bin with an assortment of screws, nuts, set-screws, body pins, flanged bushings for the steering knuckles, axles pins and washers in case something falls off on a run. Next you’ll want to carry some more substantial parts like a spare shock, some spare links, a spare center universal set-up. An extra servo horn or even and extra servo.

Tools- You know those little bags of allen wrenches and the box wrench that came with your kit? They make great lightweight travel tools and can fix most of the issues you’ll have to deal with on your rig. Now granted hand tools make the job easier, carry the basics, 1.5mm, 2.0mm and 2.5mm hex drivers; 5.5mm and 7.0mm nut drivers, long nose pliers, scissors and cutters can also be useful. Place them in a bag and put them in your backpack during your adventure.

Survival- Drivers can spend hours on the trails. Always carry water with you for hydration. Cisco Grove is at a higher elevation and having water on hand will keep you hydrated during your hikes. Also have some nutrition with you. Some power bars, trail mix or other foods can take the edge off your hunger while completing some of the long trail layouts. It’s also good to have a small first aid kit in case you get a scratch or scrape on the trail. Keep your cell phone with you, lights and a suitable back-pack to carry extra batteries is the best way to take on Axialfest.

AF18 Trail Prep5

Prep For Fun

With rig prep out of the way, you should now be able to relax and enjoy the driving and scenery on the trails instead of being concerned your rig can handle the trek. If something does happen along the trails, don’t be shy and ask another driver for help borrow a tool or even a part to keep you going. The attendees at Axialfest are among the best enthusiasts in the industry and meeting new people in the camps or on the trails can turn into new friendships. See you at #AXIALFEST

Suspension Link Types Explained

Suspension_LinkTypes

There is no shortage of suspension design types in the RC world, but for trail trucks and other off-road adventure vehicles, one of the most preferred suspension styles is the link type. Links are typically a long fixed plastic bar or long metal rod with ball-ends on each end that stretch from points on the chassis to the trucks axle. Sounds pretty simple right? There is a bit more to it. There are several link set-up types and Axial vehicles such as the SCX10 and SCX10 II use different type of link setups. There are three different designs used; a 3-Link, 4-Link and a 3-Link with panhard bar setup. Here we’ll go over what each style looks like and their performance attributes.

3-LINK

A 3-Link suspension setup can commonly be found on the front of the SCX10 platform. Two lower links, one on each side, span from the skid to the lower axle tubes. The third link is located up higher to secure the axle from rotating. Here an upper Y-link is used for the third link. It mounts to the frame and spans to a single center point/ mount on the top of the axle.

3-Link Suspension

A 3-Link setup rotates the axle around the moving vertical pivot during articulation and can result in some axle sway.

4-LINK

The 4-Link design is similar to the 3-Link in regard to how the lower links span from the skid-plate to the axle housings in a triangulated format. However the top link is slightly different. The top utilizes two links that span from the inner frame to two pivot points on the top of the axle in the center.

4-Link

The 4-Link suspension design moves in a much linear path than the 3-Link and results in less axle sway, steer and reduces the effects of torque twist.

3-LINK W/ PANHARD

Now, are you ready for the description of a 3-Link with panhard bar? Brace yourselves, it’s actually made up of 4-Links. It’s similar to a “4-Link design” but with one upper link purposely missing. So if you’re one of those people who have opened your kit and said to yourself; Hey a link is missing, it’s not supposed to be there. To prevent the axle from shifting in this style of suspension design, a “panhard” bar is used; the fourth link. A panhard bar runs from the frame perpendicular to the other links and mates up with a mounting boss on the axle carrier.

3-Link With Panhard

This suspension setup offers smooth linear articulation without the axle sway associated with a 3-Link system.

LINK TECH

Although we’ve discussed the different type of link designs in a simple format, there is a bit more to it such as anti-squat, roll center, anti-dive and other tuning options that further differentiate each, but that is for another discussion. The style of links found on your specific SCX10 model are there by design to deliver articulation for optimum performance.

Pick The Right Axial Model For You

What_Model_Style_Right4You

Axial is a company of enthusiasts for enthusiasts. Axial develops extremely high end radio control models of vehicles that you are likely to see in the great outdoors. These models are designed to generate a tremendous amount of reliable fun that can be experienced by the whole family. Whether you are a beginner looking for a new adventure or a seasoned hobby veteran, Axial offers a platform for you to personalize and enjoy in every environment. The Axial team encourages you to get outside and have some family fun! But wait… Which Axial vehicle should you get? Axial offers a selection of orr-road adventure machines and each has their strengths for certain environments. Let’s go over each vehicle and their strengths to help you decide which Axial vehicle is right for you to start with. We have to warn you, it might not be easy to choose, but as your hobby grows there is another selection at Axial to meet your needs.

SCX10

Pick The Right Axial 3 Pick The Right Axial 4
The SCX10™ platform is an already proven chassis-of-choice for scale enthusiasts around the globe. If you can hike there, your SCX10™ will drive there! With today’s efficient motor and long lasting batteries, you are only limited by your imagination and/or your physical readiness to adventure out onto a hike while driving your SCX10™. It’s a great way to get in touch with nature and spend time with friends and family while having a ton of fun doing so!
The SCX10 features a tough metal c-channel frame, proven axle design, low-CG transmission, ready to run electronics that has the power to tackle rough trail driving and backyard bashing. The SCX10 is topped off by a body that screams go for an adventure and licensed tires are ready to grip any surface.

WHO IS IT FOR: Off-road trail adventurer looking for a vehicle that can reach speeds of a brisk walking pace.
KIT OR RTR: Ready To Run
PRICE RANGE: $299.99
STYLES: AX90044 SCX10™ Deadbolt™

SCX10 II

Pick The Right Axial 13 Pick The Right Axial 14
The SCX10™ II is the culmination of many years of development, furthering aesthetic realism while maximizing trail performance. The SCX10™ II features an all-metal twin c-channel frame rails, but that’s only 2% of the 98% of a completely new design. Scale AR44™ high pinion axles, a chassis mounted servo (CMS), re-designed transmission, front mounted battery tray, all aluminum suspension links, and a properly designed suspension for nearly zero bump steer. These are just a few of the features built into the all new SCX10™ II.

WHO IS IT FOR: Like the SCX10, the SCX10 II is for the Off-road trail adventurer looking for a vehicle that can reach speeds of a brisk walking pace and tackle terrain that is a bit more aggressive.
KIT OR RTR: Kit and Ready To Run
PRICE RANGE: $329.99 to $409.99
STYLES: AX90059 SCX10 II™ Trail Honcho, AX90060 SCX10 II™ 2017 Jeep® Wrangler Unlimited CRC, AX90047 SCX10 II™ 2000 Jeep® Cherokee, AX90046 SCX10 II™ 2000 Jeep® Cherokee – Kit

YETI Jr.

Pick The Right Axial 5 Pick The Right Axial 9
With the Yeti Jr.™ SCORE® Trophy Truck® – RTR, everything that existing Axial drivers have come to love and appreciate in the Yeti chassis, has been incorporated into a machine only now in 1/18th scale. It’s powered by a 380-sized brushed motor which provides the perfect amount of torque and speed for this tiny Trophy Truck® monster. Also featuring an all-in-one programmable Tactic ESC and receiver, paired with a 3-wire micro high torque steering servo. At the end of the day, the goal was to build a simple, fun, and easy to drive Yeti that anyone can handle. The hardest part about the Yeti Jr.™ SCORE® Trophy Truck® is making sure you have enough battery packs charged in order to keep the adventure alive!

WHO IS IT FOR: For those working with smaller running spaces but still demand maximum terrain bashing performance.
KIT OR RTR: Ready To Run Only
PRICE RANGE: $159.99
STYLES: AX90052 Yeti Jr.™ SCORE® Trophy Truck®, AX90054 Yeti Jr.™

YETI 1/10-

Pick The Right Axial 8

Pick The Right Axial 7

Available in kit or ready to run form, the Yeti™ SCORE® Trophy Truck® is a purposely engineered desert truck with a solid rear axle and independent front suspension. Make no bones about it, this is not a short course truck nor is it designed for the sugar coated and manicured racetracks of R/C. This Trophy Truck is designed for the roughest of conditions and REAL DIRT. We beg for the dirt and rocks to be brought back to off-road! There are reasons why full size Trophy Trucks feature the four link suspension design; durability, capability, and improved forward bite without sacrificing suspension travel. Full-size Trophy Trucks inspired the distinct aesthetic and technical elements of this truck, right down to the solid rear axle. The retro inspired body features design queues from a 1960’s era roof-line, classic 1970’s wheel arches and glass shapes from the 1980’s. Giving this kit an extra bit of modern contrast comes in the form of fluorescent orange Method 105 wheels. This kit version will accept standard 1/10th scale brushed and brushless 4-pole systems and most major stick pack batteries. Precision machined aluminum shocks are standard equipment and deliver smooth suspension movement for consistent handling.

WHO IS IT FOR: The Yeti is exactly what it sounds like, a beast on the terrain. This off-road performer is fast and can handle anything from loose dirt to rugged rocky surfaces.
KIT OR RTR: Kit or Ready To Run
PRICE RANGE:
STYLES: AX90068 Yeti™ SCORE® Trophy Truck®, AX90050 Yeti™ SCORE® Trophy Truck®, AX90025 Yeti™ buggy kit, AX90026 Yeti™ RTR

YETI ⅛-

Pick The Right Axial 1 Pick The Right Axial 2
The Axial Yeti XL™ Monster Buggy – a new category, a new frontier, a new dimension. From the beginning of the concept through the design phase, we drew upon our brand philosophy to develop and deliver something different to the R/C monster truck arena. Monster trucks are known for bashability, so we jumped head first into the segment by creating a vehicle with insane brushless power along with features that would allow it to withstand the abuse that comes with the territory. From the outset, the goal of maintaining brand heritage was a priority. Our research and development team took those traits and attributes, mixed them with the Axial design ethos which is heavily rooted in full size rock racing, and developed what could be considered the next level in R/C monster truck design.

WHO IS IT FOR: Size matters and if you need to go big, go bold and have loads of power on tap to obliterate the terrain than the Yeti XL is the perfect fit for your aggressive driving nature.
KIT OR RTR: Kit
PRICE RANGE: $499.99
STYLES: AX90038 Yeti™ XL Buggy

RR10

Pick The Right Axial 10 Pick The Right Axial 11
The RR10 Bomber is a build-it-yourself kit and is offered in ready to run form too and is considered the ultimate rock racer! The kit version features hard anodized aluminum suspension links, hard anodized aluminum steering links, long travel rear sway bar, hardened steel universal axles allowing up to 50 degrees of steering, aluminum lower link plates, and King adjustable machined aluminum shocks, all riding on sticky BFGoodrich® Baja T/A® KR2 tires wrapped around 2.2 Walker Evans Racing beadlock wheels. We’ve also included heavy duty bevel gears in the front and rear axles for improved gear mesh, and increased strength.

WHO IS IT FOR: Want to get the experience of driving like the rigs you see at the King Of Hammers, but without the price tag of the full scale machine or the build hours. The RR10 can deliver the excitement of raw power and rock thrashing, just on a smaller scale.
KIT OR RTR: Kit or Ready To Run
PRICE RANGE: $359.99- $399.99
STYLES: AX90053 RR10 Bomber Kit, AX90048 RR10 Bomber RTR

WRAITH

Pick The Right Axial 16 Pick The Right Axial 17
The Wraith™ Ready-to-Run 1/10th Scale Electric 4WD Rock Racer is another “FIRST” for Axial with the first and most realistic full tube-frame chassis design that is manufactured with high strength composite materials. The Wraith™ IS BUILT TO GO FAST and is not just a low speed rock crawler. Each style of Wraith is packed with performance features and option parts that you add as you build it. The virtually bulletproof AR60 OCP axles are ready to take the Spawn through its paces whether blasting through the wide open desert or hammering its way through the toughest rock trails. The 2.2 Maxxis Trepador tires are a proven true grip standard, wrapped around industry proven Method IFD™ beadlock wheels. Whether you are rock racing or backyard bashing, the Wraith™ Spawn is ready for action.

WHO IS IT FOR: Looking for the best of many off-road worlds? The Wraith is a proven rock racer that can also dominate the hiking trails with high speed performance and suspension that adapts to a variety of environments.
KIT OR RTR: Kit or Ready To run
PRICE RANGE: $329.99- $399.99
STYLES: AX90045 Wraith Spawn, AX90031 Jeep® Wrangler Wraith-Poison Spyder Rock Racer, AX90018 Wraith RTR, AX90056 Wraith Spawn Kit

SMT10

Pick The Right Axial 6 Pick The Right Axial 12
Monster trucks are a never ending automotive attraction that captures anyone’s attention and the trucks featured in Monster Jam®. Axial went all out when designing the chassis and roll cage for the SMT10™ Monster Jam® Truck. Very similar to modern era full size monster trucks, this chassis was developed for maximum strength and an extremely detailed appearance. The truck also features tough AR60, long travel aluminum body shocks, licensed BKT tires and the styling to ensure you have a true mini Monster Jam experience.

WHO IS IT FOR: If you’re determined to crush anything in your RC vehicles path from a row of cans, backyard flower beds or just go out for some general big wheel bashing, the SMT10 can handle anything you would expect from a Monster Jam style truck.
KIT OR RTR: Ready To Run Only
PRICE RANGE: $329.99
STYLES: AX90057 MAX-D Monster Jam Truck, AX90055 Grave Digger Monster Jam Truck