SCX10 II Trail Honcho Truck Tips & Tricks For Noobs


Getting your RC adventure underway has never been easier with the well equipped, affordable SCX10 II Trail Honcho ready to run. This revival of the original Honcho body, from the famed SCX10, now features an updated electronics package combined with improved SCX10 II platform. It’s aimed at getting anyone into the hobby and on the trails with success. It of course is also a great truck for the seasoned enthusiast. But our focus here is on the many who will pick up an RC transmitter for the first time with the Trail Honcho and we want their first adventure to be the best of many trail driving experiences to come. Here we’ll go over all the basics from the unboxing to checking over your rig for its first run, tips for your first drive and tricks to keep it in proper running order.
Honcho 3

Before just diving into your new RC adventure, take the time to unbox and educate yourself about everything that encompases your new Honcho kit. Inside the box, you’ll need to cut the zip-ties securing the truck to the inner box support. Remove the radio from it’s packaging and dip into the bag with instructions and accessories. The most important step here is to read the manual. Although we’re walking you through the paces here, it is always best to familiarize yourself with the manual in case you have any questions in the future. After your up to par with manual, take a look at what is included with the kit. You’ll find a bag of “extra parts” these parts are unused during the assembly of the kit and may be used for future projects once you get hooked on your Axial adventures and trust us, you will get hooked. There will also be some basic tools in the kit, these should be transferred to your adventure backpack as they make great tools for on-trail repairs. And finally you’ll notice some green “domes” we’ll talk about this later.

Honcho 2
Honcho 1

We’re moving onto the fun part; getting your Honcho going. First remove the four body clips that secure the body to the chassis, remove the body completely and set it aside. Now you can access the battery tray. At some point at your local hobby shop or online, you’ve purchased a battery and charger for the rig. Locate the battery tray and unhook the Velcro strap. Slide your charged battery into the tray and secure the velcro back in place to retain the battery. Next move to the transmitter and install four AA batteries that you supply into the radio. Power the radio on using the switch on the face of the radio. Now move back to the SCX10 II and plug in the battery. The battery plug is your on/off switch for the truck. Tip: The radio is always on first and off last. Your SCX10 II is now powered up and ready to go after placing the body back on the truck and securing it with the four clips.

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Head outdoors and place the Honcho on the ground for a quick systems check. The electronics should be dialed in from the factory, but things can happen. You’ll want to check to make sure your trims are set properly. First is your truck moving on its own when you power it up? If so, you will need to use the throttle trim on your radio to reset your neutral point. Use either button for throttle trim to find the neutral. If you tap the trim on one side and the truck starts moving more, it means you’ll need to use the opposite button to get the throttle back to neutral. Keep tapping the button until the car stops (is at its neutral point.) With the throttle set, check to see if the truck tracks straight. With the vehicle pointing away from you, give the truck a little throttle. Note if the truck tends to “drift” towards the left or right. If so, use your steering trim to find the neutral point of the steering in a similar fashion to the throttle adjustment.
Honcho SCX10 2

Wait! Now that your truck is trimmed, you probably have the urge to pin the throttle and see what the truck can do. We’ll get there. First start by driving slow in a figure eight pattern. This means giving the truck a little bit of throttle trigger input and steering the truck in a figure eight pattern; turn the wheel right, go straight a bit, turn the wheel to the left, repeat. This will help you get a feel for how the steering feels reversed when coming towards you. When the truck is going away from you, steering the radio wheel to the right will always turn the truck to the right, but will feel reversed coming back towards you. Get a feel for the throttle range in both forwards and reverse. Note: the throttle is not an on/off switch and is proportional. In trail truck driving much of your rock crawling adventures will happen at a slower speed.
Honcho SCX10 7

Before going out and driving on the gnarliest terrain you can find, practice on something less harsh. Find small hills or rocks with a slight incline to drive on. First drive straight up and down the obstacle. Note the amount of throttle it takes to make the incline and how the drag brake in the speed control affects the decline. Next drive up on an angle. Like a real vehicle, the trucks center of gravity may want to cause the truck to roll over. Determining the type of angle you can drive on before the truck wants to roll over is all a part of developing driving skill.

Honcho SCX10 6

With a general feel of how the Honcho drives, you can venture out for tougher obstacles. Find steeper inclines, off-set rock ledges, varying rock surfaces and use your newfound vehicle control to try and get your truck over the terrain. Think about where the wheels need to be places on rocks, how much steering you need to use, how much throttle and where will the truck be positioned when you’ve tackled what’s in front of you. Remember, you need to set yourself up for the next obstacle too. Then it will become time to refine your lines, challenge yourself and that’s where those little green domes come in that you found in the kit. These green things are gate markers and they are set on trail courses for your rig to pass through. They’re usually placed in positions that will challenge your skill. Find challenging parts on your trial and place these markers so you can practice driving through gates.

Honcho SCX10 3

What happens when your truck rolls over? Well, in real life, if a truck rolls over, no big hand reaches down from the sky to flip it back over. So, you need to use vehicle control to try and right the truck. If the Honcho is completely upside down, try using throttle and steering to “wiggle” the truck over. Or towards a nearby object. The point is to get the wheels to grab onto something to help pull it back over. If the truck is on its side, you can turn into the ground and give it throttle. This will oftentimes pull the truck out of the roll over and back onto its wheels.

Honcho SCX10 5

The rest of your driver education is up to you. To improve your skill, try locating nearby parks or even an urban adventure away from the public. Finding new places to have an adventure each time you go out with the Honcho will improve your driving skill. But in the bigger picture, you’re also going out and finding new adventures for yourself. Adventures that will not only build skills and love for a hobby, but will also build memories.
Honcho SCX10 4

Once your adventure outdoors is over, you’re not exactly done with your Honcho rig. A maintained rig is always a well performing rig. Take the time to remove any dirt and debris from the truck. A simple 2” paintbrush and a little elbow grease knocking off dirt from the truck can clean it up. Compressed air works as well. If your adventure lead you into the wetlands, take a look at our Driveline Maintenance Tips to help you with your clean-up procedures.
Honcho SCX10 1

At some point, You’ll want to join the custom club. Installing option parts to make your honcho stand out or to make it more durable for the adventures you’ll put the rig through. Here are five option parts we recommend you take a look at when taking your SCX10 II Honcho to the next level.  

Gear Set (48P 28T, 48P 52T)
Part- AX31585
If you read the story of the Honcho taking on the Redonda Ridge Adventure, you saw the rough terrain eventually took its toll on the transmission gears. Luckily this is an inexpensive upgrade up to steel gears if you feel your truck needs it.

Aluminum Servo Horn 25T (Hard Anodized)
Part- AX30836
The steering is among one of the most abused parts of any vehicle. Swapping the stock plastic servo horn for the aluminum option could prevent any unwanted steering issues on the trail.

M4 Serrated Nylon Lock Nut
Part- AXA1046
For obvious reasons the wheels endure a lot of abuse during use. This on occasion can lead to a wheel nut backing off. The locking serrated nuts grab onto the wheels for extra security.

SCX10 TR Links Set – 12.3″ (313mm) WB
Part- AX30550
Although the links on the SCX10 II Honcho have been greatly improved over the previous units on the SCX10, upgrading to aluminum links is a popular upgrade for many adventurers.

Steering Upgrade Kit
Part- AX30426
Like the suspension links, the stock plastic steering link can take a lot of abuse and flex during use. In this set, you can use the long link to upgrade your SCX10 II.

Honcho SCX10 7
With your new found hobby and new found key to adventure, keep things interesting by continuing to drive on new trails, build new courses in your backyard, continually modify and upgrade your Honcho to reflect you, your likes and interests. Every day is a new adventure behind the wheel of the Honcho and can give you new found enjoyment outdoors while learning new sets of skill. When you do conquer a new challenge, be certain to document your experience with a photo on social media and give it the hashtag #AxialAdventures so other adventurers can see what you’re up to.


Desert Turtle Racing KOH 2018 Race Recap

Desert Turtle Racing KOH 2018 Race Recap

KOH 2018 Race Week:
First and foremost, we were stoked to be setting up our pits in the Lasernut Laser Town hanger. We arrived at Laser Town and got the Turtle set up in the hanger and set up all our camp stuff. We did a little last minute shock tuning on the Rock Krawler shocks to get them dialed in for race day, then headed over to get registered for the race. Monday was our qualifying day and in practice we discovered that the motor was running not so peppy. We learned that we had to shift to 4-Lo just to get up the hill climb and then shift back into 4-Hi to finish the lap. It hurt our qualifying times a bit but we were still able to get an 11th in class start for Thursday’s race. We also discovered that we had a melted coil pack and spark plug that were causing the engine to run poorly. We were able to get in a run around Lap 1 of the KOH course and mark down some trouble spots on GPS as well as set up our lines to get through the new “Notches” area that Ultra4 added to the course this year. We were feeling pretty good about the course of Lap 1 and the car was running well. We headed out for a pre-run of Lap 2 and got through a couple trails but unfortunately cracked the oil pan on a couple big hits and that caused us to call the pre-running extremely short. A big part of our pit support this year was provided by Dust Junkies Racing and they just so happened to be near where we broke down and gave us a helping hand to get back to Laser Town. We spent the rest of our pre-running time hunting down an oil pan and making repairs to the rig and studying the course map.


KOH 2018 EMC Race Day:
Let’s just start with, the green flag dropped and we were off and running! Darin was behind the wheel and ready to attack the desert lap. The first few miles had us on edge, knowing that race nerves can cause you to overdrive the rig and/or potentially suffer flats. As we clicked off the early miles we passed many rigs that had suffered exactly that, and a couple others with some quick driving decisions. We were able to maintain a good pace and cruise through unscathed. As we passed by RM12 we felt the rig was doing well. We radioed to Dust Junkies at Remote Pit 1 that we didn’t need a tire change and opted pass through without a stop. They responded with “Well done. We’ll catch you on the flip side at RM48”. We waved on the way by the pits and were feeling great about the rig. We kept clicking off the miles, passing other racers along the way. As we arrived at “The Notches” a little ways past RM24 we followed a couple other rigs into the banner area. Again, we passed a few others that were floundering in the rocks not knowing where to go. We stuck to our pre-planned route and managed to maneuver around a couple more. As we exited, we were on the tail of a 4800 rig and we decided to go for the pass in a whooped-out section to the drivers left. We made the pass, but we also went for a good ride when the front end got bucked pretty high, and we were reminded that we needed to tone it back.


We got back on our pace as we rounded the half-way point at RM32, and we continued carrying a good pace, picking our way through the tight desert section before reaching RM47, where we again needed to radio to the Dust Junkies at Remote Pit 1 what our plans were. We chatted for a bit about how the rig was doing, we were not hearing any strange sounds, and we again didn’t need to stop for a tire change. We hit the pit zone and again gave the big thumbs up as we passed by. Heading out crossing the base line we knew the speeds were going to pick up as we rounded the big bend at RM52. Around RM54 we had a close encounter with a bird — this bird was about 20 feet off the deck and clocking us for speed about 50 feet off the front passenger corner of the rig. At least it seemed that close. So we mashed the gas to pick up the pace and see what they would do. We gave them the applause and enjoyed the camera man hanging off the side of the helicopter. Let’s hope it makes the cut into some footage somewhere.


We reached the intersection at the baseline exit and headed out across the dry, dusty Melville lakebed. At times we couldn’t see much more than a few feet in front of us. Picking our way up into the top of Resolution, preparing for our drop down it and Backdoor, we knew we had just a couple more miles before we were back to Main. We had a bit of a close call at Backdoor — we got in a little bit of a hurry to prevent another rig from passing us and did a great nose pose with the rear tires straight up in the air. We hit the gas to prevent the roll-over and hit the rear bumper hard on the rock wall behind us… BUT we were down and all four wheels and the rig was still moving. We called in to pits that we were down but took a hard hit and would need to look the rig over really well. We made the last of the little climbs before hitting the short course and the Main Pits. At this point we were pretty stoked Darin just had a VERY clean run on Lap 1 and suffered ZERO flats with our Falken tires. We had a feeling that we were sitting in a pretty good position and it was time to change drivers.

And so the race continues… Lap 2 — Randall is now in the driver’s seat and ready to take on the rock sections. Before we got there, we had to run through the first 8 miles of the Lap 1 again, and then around the desert for another 9 miles before reaching Remote Pit 2A. Again, we kept a descent pace intent on not overdriving the rig. As we reached Remote Pit 2A the rig was feeling pretty good and we called in to let them know that we would just be passing by. We headed into the first rock trail, Boulder Dash, and made pretty quick work of it. We headed down Upper Big Johnson and continued across the valley and around to the bottom of Wrecking Ball. While we were in Wrecking Ball we had a few difficulties leading up to the waterfall but cruised right up the bypass line and continued on. At RM85 we headed over to Fissure Mountain to run across the top of the range and down to Sledgehammer. Another new thing for the Ultra4 race this year was the addition of two trails at RM90, Idle Issues and Her Problem, two trails that I did not get to pre-run nor even see. As we approached the trail we saw the trail markers but the terrain looked untraveled and there were no obvious lines. There was no stopping us on this trail we picked it apart, as if we were cutting a new trail. We had a little trouble getting through Chocolate Thunder but were able to keep our cool and get back on track.

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Once we got over into Jack North we felt something strange in the steering and decided we should stop and take a look. What we discovered was the mount on the axle for the Hydro Assist Ram has been torn off and the Ram was just hanging there cycling left and right. We also discovered that all of the drive flange bolts on the rear axle (BOTH SIDES!) had backed out and we were leaking a ton of gear oil. We tightened up the flange bolts, removed the hydro-ram and capped the hydro lines so we could continue the race. We wheeled up to the crux of Jack North and, like a replay of last year, Darin got out and spotted the rigs through and then got us through and we headed for Jack Hammer. The problem with not having Hydro Assist is that every rock the tires come in contact with will jolt the tires one way or another and that makes it very difficult to steer and stay on the line that you need to get over the rocks. Coming down Jack Hammer we made sure to plan way ahead and keep the car on the right line. Heading up the sand hills at RM93 was pretty fun with the new motor screaming as we made our way. We got around to Hells Gate and continued to struggle with the ability to steer and stay on the right line. Thankfully we had a new ZEON 10 winch from Warn on the rig to get us quickly un-stuck when necessary.

We cruised down Devils Slide and headed over into Sunbonnet Pass. We came upon a few other rigs in the trail and made passes when we could but also got stuck a few times, and again had to use the winch to get unstuck. Somewhere in Sunbonnet we got lodged between two big rocks and had to use our jack to get out, which cost us a significant amount of time. At that point we also discovered that we had cracked the oil pan again and it is was dripping. We took some time to look at the leak and see if we could spot the crack. We debated continuing the race with the leak but the concern was, if we cracked the oil pan even worse, we could damage the motor and possibly be stuck in a trail until the race is over. We agreed that we would make our way out of Sunbonnet and then reassess the condition of the rig. It’s always a hard decision to make but we had to make it. We decided to make our way to the stock bypass split at RM100 and call the race. We didn’t want to risk severe damage to the motor and didn’t want a late-night team recovery after the race. We got in touch with our pit crew at Remote Pit 2B and had them relay to Race Ops that we were out of the race at RM100.

We finished our race as the 1st place DNF, putting us officially in 4th place by progression. Yes, you read that right — There were only three 4500 class rigs that finished the race, and only another nine rigs in the 4800 class. This race was a difficult one — Not because of the number of rock trails or a difficult desert lap, but because Mother Nature has not rained on the Hammer trails in some time, and that caused the dirt to be very dusty and the rocks to be covered in dust, and some holes to be extra deep.


We would like to give a special thanks to several sponsors – To Off Road Development for providing the shop space for us to get ready for KOH. To Sucuri Security for stepping on board to support the team this year. To Warn for going above and beyond standard customer service to solve our winching issues. To Dust Junkies Racing for providing pit space and pit support at the race. To Lasernut for providing us space in the Laser Town Hanger at KOH. To Rock Krawler for their continued support in our race program. To Falken for providing ZERO flats this year on the Wildpeak M/T tires. And to our DTR team… Without them we would not be able to do what we do. We are a team that is more like a family and we are all in it together. Even though we did not finish, we did not lose. We come away smarter and stronger. We are still a young team and we continue to learn at every race.

Thanks to all of our sponsors for your continued support: Rock Krawler Suspension | Falken Tire | Sucuri Security | Axial Racing | Poison Spyder Customs | Raceline Wheels | DJ Safety | Fuel Safe | Rugged Radios | J. E. Reel | Rugged Routes | Lasernut | Currie Enterprises | Magnaflow | CTM Racing | sPOD | Artec Industries | PRP Seats | Luxwurx | Warn | Sharq Skinz | DGP Motion Media | Factor55 | 212 Performance Gloves | Off Road Development | Pacific Advisors | SoCal Services | Beachview Insurance | Villa Landscape Products | SoCal Land Maintenance | EctoVentures

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How To: Power Your Axial LED Lights


Lighting in a scale truck is pretty much mandatory nowadays. The new Jeep Rubicon Unlimited CRC and Honcho both feature factory equipped lights and the new AE5-L speed control to power the lights. However, if you don’t have one of those specific models, there are still plenty of optional LED lights available from the Axial line-up to customize your specific trail rig. Like many LED light sets on the market, each set has their own designated use and may need specific power setups in order for them to work properly. In this Axial LED overview, we’re going to take a look at the individual light sets and appropriate power sources and controllers so you know what is compatible when going to equip your rig with lights.



NVS – Night Visions System
Part- AX24251
The NVS kit gives you everything you need to give your rig a full custom lit look. Headlights, tail lights, marker lights and most importantly a power and control module. This system comes with the power module that will provide the correct power for the included LED light strings. Power to the module is provided by an in-line adapter that goes between the battery and ESC.

POWERED BY: Included in-line adapter (Note: Plugs may need to be exchanged depending on existing speed control and battery plug type)

Simple LED Controller w/LED lights (4 white and 2 red)
Part- AX24257
This Simple LED Controller includes 4 bright white LED’s, AX24258, and 2 bright red LED’s, AX24253. Other light strands compatible with the controller are: AX24252, AX24253, AX24254, AX24255, AX24256, and AX24258. Controller can power two 2 or 4 LED Strings only.
POWERED BY: Open Receiver Port (CH 3, Aux, etc.)


8-String LED

8 LED Light String (White LED)
Part- AX31098
This light string works pefectly with the AX31152 Axial LED light bar or other custom applications. This specific light string requires the AX31097 3 port high output LED controller to power it.

Double LED Light String

Double LED Light String (White LEDs)
Part-  AX24252
The perfect LED set for headlights. This light string can only be powered by the Axial NVS – Night Visions System – AX24251  and/or Simple LED Controller- AX24257.

Double LED Light String (Red LED)

Double LED Light String (Red LED)
Part- AX24253
Often used for tail lights, the Double Red LED String must be used with Axial NVS – Night Visions System – AX24251 and/or Simple LED Controller- AX24257 installed for vehicles that do not include light strings.

Double LED Light String (Orange LED)

Double LED Light String (Orange LED)
Part- AX24254
Double Orange  LED light strings for turn signals; these are powered either by
the Axial NVS – Night Visions System – AX24251 and/or the Simple LED Controller- AX24257.

Single LED Light String (White LED)

Single LED Light String (White LED)
Part- AX24255
Additional/replacement LED light string. Must have Axial NVS – Night Visions System – AX24251 and/or Simple LED Controller- AX24257 installed for vehicles that do not include these light strings.


5 LED Light String (White LED)

5 LED Light String (White LED)
Part- AX24256
5 LED light string for auxiliary lights (White LED). Must have Axial NVS – Night Visions System – AX24251 and/or Simple LED Controller- AX24257 installed for vehicles that do not include these light strings.


4 LED Light String (White LED)
Part- AX24258
Must have Axial NVS – Night Visions System – AX24251 and/or Simple LED Controller- AX24257 installed for vehicles that do not include these light strings.


3-port controller
3 Port High Output LED Controller
Part- AX31097
Compatible with Axial’s 8 LED string (AX31098) in the HO port. A 2 or 4 LED string can run off of the two additonal ports. This light controller fills the gap between the basic simple LED kit (AX24257) and the full blown Night Vision System (AX24251). It has the ability to power 3 separate LED strings and Includes harness extension for removing the body.


Universal 5 Bucket Light Bar Set
Part- AX30709
Axial’s new Universal 5 Bucket Light Bar Set comes with a complete set of screws and plastic parts designed for a variety of Axial vehicles as well as a universal system for additional mounting applications. The light bar’s tubular design gives your vehicle cool scale looks and each light bucket can be outfitted with an LED light to help guide the way on those late night runs (LED lights sold separately).The set also includes three different mesh grilles for your lights: plain, Axial and officially licensed PIAA grill covers. PIAA is a registered trademark of PIAA Corporation.

AX24251 – NVS Night Vision System with LED lights
AX24257 – Simple LED controller with LED lights
AX24256 – Axial 5 LED light string

Universal Rigid Light Bar Set
Axial LED light bar, officially licensed by Rigid Industries!
Part- AX31152

This molded plastic housing includes three different length light bars, hardware, universal mounting brackets, clear LED lenses and Instructions. For use with optional AX31098 8 LED Light String (White LED) and AX31097 3 Port High Output LED Controller.

Light Bucket Set (Black)

Light Bucket Set
Part- AX80045
Get custom and add lights where you want to. This set includes seven different styles of light buckets with plastic lenses in clear and yellow to hold 5mm and 3mm LED lights.


Now that we have some of your options out of the way it’s time to talk about where to tap into the power on your rig in order to light up those LED’s

Receiver Power- Units like the 3 Port High Output LED Controller can be powered from the receiver. A extension plug is provided to plug into any open port on the receiver. Be aware that the receivers voltage may be regualted and may not power the controller correctly. As a result the lights may appear dim. In this case you may need to direct wire the controller.

Direct Power- The NVS includes an adapter to receive power directly from your rigs main battery. This ensures the unit receives the voltage necessary to light up the LED’s. Direct power connections is another way of hooking up other controllers or LED systems to power the LED’s. To do this, an extension wire needs to be soldered to the positive and negative battery wire solder posts, or wires, or connectors on the ESC. Now, when you plug in your battery, your LED lights will instantly illuminate unless you decide to solder in an in-line switch as well.

Even with all of the information above, your personal alterations to your electronics may have an effect on your LED lighting. Other factors can include battery voltage. When making changes to your vehicle beyond what is described, be aware that additional testing may need to take place in order to make your system work properly.

LED Light How To


Schultz Lab Magnetic Body Mounting How To


Strange things happen in the mind of John Schultz and many times there are some great results from those endless random thoughts. Sure, you may have heard of his epic trail builds at Axialfest, but a recent mind melt session in the Schultz Lab yielded a great how to on setting up your body for a super scale look using magnets to secure the shell. Photos were pinched, helpful tips jotted down and we’re going to pass along the information so you can mount your next body sans body clips.
Axial Body Mount 2

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First things first. Don’t drill any body mounting holes in your freshly painted body. Place the body on your rig and get a feel for where it needs to be positioned.

Axial Body Mount 3

You’ll need to determine where the magnets need to be placed on the inside of the body. There are several ways to do this. Some people put a small dot of paint on the top of the body posts or some black marker so it transfers to the body to designate the body mount locations. John Shultz uses a dab of peanut butter and then eats the rest of the jar. Some bodies do have dimples molded in the body to identify the mounting points and these can of course be used too.

Axial Body Mount 4

If you do use peanut butter, er um, marker to transfer your body mount points, press down firmly to transfer the “substance” to the body.

Axial Body Mount 10

Now it’s time to find some magnets that can be used to secure the body. John found these 1/2″ x 1/4″ x 1/8″ Neodymium Ring Magnets that fit perfectly on the SCX10 II body posts.

Axial Body Mount 11

Once you’re satisfied with the fit of the magnets on the posts, place a small amount of 5-minute 2-part epoxy to the base of the body mounts and slide the magnets onto the posts.

Axial Body Mount 12

Once the epoxy has cured, use a pair of side cutters to cut the top of the post off so it will allow the magnet, that will be secured to the body, to sit on the post magnet.

Axial Body Mount 9

Now it’s time to secure the magnets to the body. Use the epoxy to secure the magnets to the body. Make certain that the mark you made on the body in STEPS 2 & 3 is in the center of the magnet holes. Use some packing tape to help secure the magnets while the epoxy dries. This is a critical step. You don’t want the magnets to move and then the epoxy dries and you have no way to move the mount. A magnet that moves during this step will most likely result in the body not sitting properly on the chassis.

Axial Body Mount 15

Here you can see the magnets epoxied to the roof which was done prior to John installing his interior. Once the epoxy has dried on all of the magnets, you’re ready to drop the body on your chassis with the ease of magnets holding it in place. Not only will the body be held firmly in place, but it also looks much more scale without body posts and its super easy to take the body off for battery swaps or turning the truck on and off.

Axial Body Mount 6

You may have noticed in some photos that an interior was installed in the 2017 Jeep® Wrangler Unlimited CRC body. To do this, John took a 2012 Jeep® Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon Body and cut the exterior off, leaving just the interior and roll cage to secure to the new Jeep Wrangler Unlimited body. The result of course is a more scale looking rig to hit the trails with.


With just a little bit of modeling skill, some standard shop tools and some magnets that can be found anywhere online, you can increase the scale look of your machine, while making the chassis easily accessible. It might even become something you’ll want to build a shrine for…

Axial Body Mount 18



Axialfest Adventures – Video Collection


It’s never too early to start thinking about Axialfest. Actually does anyone stop thinking about Axialfest? It can be said for certain that those who have attended Axialfest never forget their time there. If you’re new to the event, then we can get you right up to speed on what experiences you can have there. You’re about to witness a collection of Axialfest videos produced by people who are truly passionate about the radio control hobby and who are now passionate about what goes on at Axialfest. The collection covers some of the best videos posted to Youtube. Not all of the videos, there are certainly many more amazing videos created by attendees that we urge you to hunt for on Youtube, but the videos selected here will get you ramped up for Axialfest 2018 and beyond.

Before we take a look at some of the highlight videos from each year, it is important to know what is Axialfest. This video from the Axialvideos Youtube page gives you the deep down meaning of the event:

AMain Hobbies
AxialFest 2017 by AMain Hobbies
Team AMain Hobbies Presents AxialFest 2017. The crew that attended Axialfest 2017 has put together an amazing presentation of what goes on at the event. Rigs in action, the excitement of the participants the beauty of the setting this video will leave you wanting to see more and attend Axialfest if you don’t already.

4-Days Of AXIALFEST In 16 Minutes – Get In The Know Before You Go
Axialfest can seem overwhelming for the first time attendee, but here each day’s events are broken down so you know what to expect. The elements of Axialfest evolve each year, but this will help you start your journey.

5150 Media Productions
Come Drive With Us – Axialfest
Probably one of the most epic documentary style videos about Axialfest is the 5150 2016 video sponsored by Pro-Line Racing. This finely crafted film gives you the background of Axialfest, what it means to the people that attend it, the grueling terrain both people and Axial rig endure at the amazing grounds of Cisco Grove. Here, you’ll see people come together from all over the world all with one passion, Axial.

2015 (Uploaded in 2018)
This is AxialFest!
Scale Builders Guild
Scale Builders Guild is known for its unique view on the scale and trail community and they took that talented perspective to Axialfest in 2015 to capture some amazing moments. Plenty of action footage was packed into this video and covers all of the special events and terrain you can tackle with your rig.

AxialFest 2014 Highlights
RC Logic
This video takes a good look at the rough terrain your rig can encounter at Cisco Grove and of course the fun you can encounter with the people who attend.

Axialfest 2013
Sometimes it good to look back, way back. This is a look at Axialfest back in 2013 and if you watches the videos above you’ll see some changes in format, but many other things are still common. The love for Axial, friendships, custom built trail rigs, amazing adventures and most importantly the appreciation for the fans.

There are plenty of thrilling moments and messages in those videos. What it’s like to be a part of the Axial lifestyle; to eat, sleep and then work or drive your Axial rig day in and day out. To seek out people just like you who love Axial, who want to build great things, to express yourself through a moving model that will turn heads and then have those people approach you to talk more about your passion. At Axialfest everyone is there to be appreciated by the company Axial, but everyone there appreciates each other for having the same love for Axial radio control vehicles.

Maintain Your Driveline After Winter Weather Driving


Just because it’s cold, wet, snowy, icy and sometimes just miserable weather doesn’t stop the majority of Axial drivers from getting their RC drive on. All of those conditions can translate to a lot of fun, cool photos and great stories to talk to your trail buddies about. But after your four-wheeling trek across the frozen tundra of your backyard or weather beaten nearby park, you need to give your machine a little TLC in order for it to continue to run at optimum performance. Here we’ll go over the key areas to focus on to check and maintain.

Snow 1

Before we dip into the checks and techniques to maintaining your machine, there is one running situation we’d suggest you avoid when running your car in snowy conditions. This harmful situation for your machine is running in an area where salts and chemicals have been used to melt the snow. Sure a slushy parking lot four-wheel drive donut session sounds fun, but the salts or other ice melting chemicals mixed in with that slush can accelerate the corrosion of metal parts and even eat away at some finished plastics. Try to stay away from the tempting slush slides and if you do push the limits and put your rig through a salt bath, be certain to follow the cleaning and maintenance steps we’re about to outline.

There is one thing to remember when running in any type of wet conditions, water goes anywhere it wants. So when running in water, your hardware, screws, nuts, pins, bearings, shafts, any metals are subject to getting wet and rusting or corroding. Each and every metal on your car should be inspected and addressed if necessary in order to prevent a problem.

Snow 2

One of the first things many suggest to do to an RC car that is covered in water is to immediately spray as many metal parts and hardware as possible with WD-40 to combat any corrosion that is immediately setting in. Although WD-40 is known as a rust inhibitor, it should not be your only mode of defence. If possible, you should also blow your rig off with air, blow every last little area on the machine, an air compressor with some decent pressure would be the best here, but smaller blowers or in the worst case, a hair dryer would work too.

Screw rust
Hardware- Screws, nuts, pins, screw pins and so on are obvious. However you can live it a little rust on these, there won’t be any performance or wear issue if most of these are not treated. The few items to watch though are the screws and sleeves in caster blocks. Rust here may cause issues later. Axle shafts are another area. Rust can build up and often make it difficult to remove from support bearings.

Universals- If your rig is equipped with universal driveshafts in the front axles, do yourself a favor and keep them dry and lube them or WD-40 them after wet use. It is even a good idea to pick the rig up and give the vehicle some throttle while blowing off the components or spraying them with a rust inhibitor to get water out and get the inhibitor into the moving parts. Water sitting in there will cause rust later. Your universal joints in your rigs center shafts should get the same treatment.

Bearings- Getting water out of your bearings is no easy task. If you submerge your rig, water will get in the bearings. Do your best to blow out the bearings with air, blast them with an cleaning spray like a motor spray and then with WD-40. Picking your vehicle up off the ground and running your driveline to help expel water is a good idea too. Once you feel you’ve done your best to get the water out, use a micro oiler to re-oil the bearings.

Gears- Depending on the gears you use, metal or aluminum, are subject to problems caused by water. Use a paper towel or any of the previously mentioned methods to dry them off and then be sure to coat them with a generous amount of grease for extra protection.

Yes, this blog is about your driveline, but we want you to know everything…
Electronics- Just because your electronics are weather-proof, water-resistant and whatever doesn’t mean you should put them away wet. It’s always a good practice to dry them off with towels or compressed air just as a extra precautionary measure to make certain nothing happens to these expensive components.
Tire foams- If your tires are vented and you’ve run in water, you need to do your best to get the water out. If you are running beadlocks, it would be best to pull your rims apart, take the foam out and dry them off by compressing them in dry towels. If your tries have been glued to the rims, try squeezing as much water out as possible and place the tire in a warm place to allow water to evaporate. If the hole in the tire can be place down, do so so water can drain out of the tire.
Batteries- If your battery gets wet, take the time to shake out any water and blow off water with compressed air. Always use caution when handling batteries.

Snow 3

No doubt driving in wintry wet weather is fun, but proper maintenance afterward is time consuming. If you’re the type that loves maintenance or doesn’t mind the work after the occasional slush splash, then go for it, have fun. The worst case is, you may need to replace your bearings with a new set from Axial or a trusted bearing supplier like Team Fast Eddy Bearings. If rusty screws are not your thing, you can take a look at aftermarket screw sets like those from Team KNK. Keep an eye on those driveshafts and gears, they are a more costly item to replace. Take the time to maintain your rig and it will last you a long time, no matter what type of environment you run it in.

2018 Ultra 4 / King of the Hammers






11:00AM – 01:00PM
01:30PM – 02:30PM
03:0OPM – 05:00PM


11:00AM – 01:00PM
01:30PM – 02:30PM
03:0OPM – 05:00PM


11:00AM – 01:00PM
01:30PM – 02:30PM
03:0OPM – 05:00PM




10:00AM – 12:00PM
12:30PM – 06:00PM



AXIALFEST 2018 Registration to open March 1st, 2018

axialfest_2018_registration_opens_march_1_500x220Registration to open March 1st, 2018

First, just because we’ve posted something about AXIALFEST, it doesn’t mean the floodgates have opened. DO NOT CALL CISCO GROVE CAMPGROUND PLEASE!!! This is purely an announcement that registration for AXIALFEST 2018 will open March 1st. We will let you know when Cisco Grove Campground is ready to take camp spot reservations for AXIALFEST2018.

stay tuned to the official AXIALFEST 2018 Facebook Event Page:

sneak peak::::..:..::..:.
check out this upcoming Axial Chevy C10 option body on a Axial SCX10 chassis with custom painted Boom Racing 1.55 Yota Classic Beadlock wheels rolling on Pit Bull 1.55 Growler AT/Extra tires with Alien Kompound.


Axial LCX Transmission Parts List



Found in: SCX10 II CRC Edition 2017 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited

Stock Gearing
LCX: 32P 13T Pinion / 56T Spur Gear

Axial LCX Tranmission Parts List

Gearing Chart

32 Pitch (Stock Gearing AX30392 or AX30395)

Spur Gear


32 Pitch (Overdrive Gearing AX30401)

Spur Gear


32 Pitch (Underdrive Gearing AX30402)

Spur Gear




AXA0023 M2.6x8mm Cap Head Screw
AXA013 M2x6mm Cap Head Screw
AXA1045 M4 Nylon Locking Flanged Nuts
AXA1218 Bearing 5x10x4mm
AXA1225 Bearing 8x16x5mm
AX30162 Straight Pin
AX30394 20T Drive Gear
AX30413 Slipper Spring
AX30435 Steel Outdrive Shaft Set
AX30190 Shaft
AXA146 M3x12mm Socket Head Screw
AX31026 Slipper Plate
AX31027 Spur Gear 32P 56T
AX31068 Slipper Pad
AX31531 LCX Transmission Case
AX31539 LCX Top Shaft (Coming Soon)
AX31585 Gear Set (48P 28T/ 48P 52T)

SCX10 II Trail Honcho 1/10th Scale Electric 4WD RTR Video Collection

SCX10II_Trail_Honcho_Video Look what’s back, the trail rig that lured so many RC enthusiasts off of the tracks and from backyards to the trails for an off-road adventure. The Trail Honcho again graces the trails, this time with the new SCX10 II platform under the iconic Honcho body. But there is a bit more than meets the eye. The SCX10 II has gone through a few revisions and optimized in a way that still delivers the scale performance enthusiasts desire and now at a price that many will find affordable. The Trail Honcho will get you into the scale off-road scene and the level you take your hobby to is up to you. To get you up to speed on what Youtube’s top influencers are saying about the SCX10 II Trail Honcho, we’ve gathered a collection of videos so you can easily see what these trusted channels have to say about the rig.

Axial Videos

Axial AX90059 SCX10™ II Trail Honcho™ – Hike across Redonda Ridge For the launch, the Axial crew went to great lengths to show you the capability of this new release. The SCX10™ II Trail Honcho™ is the reliable choice for scale trail fun! For the past nine years the SCX10™ has been the staple vehicle platform for scale trail enthusiasts around the world. When it’s you, the trail and your rig, you want the tried, and true. You want real world community tested, hobby shop supported, aftermarket supported with close to ten years of history and scale trail adventures. The Trail Honcho™, built on the SCX10™ II chassis, meets the demands and the rigors of scale trailing miles from home when you need reliability the most! The Redonda Ridge Trail, within the mountains of Big Bear California, is mostly used by off road motorcyclist, and revered as the Malcolm Smith Trail due to it’s technical tenacity. The trail was recently re-visited by one of Axial’s own; part of a crew who had traversed the 9.68 mile OHV trail a few times in the past on motorcycles. The thought came about that it would make for a great SCX10™ proving ground, thus the idea was conceptualized to hike the trail, and put the latest version of the Trail Honcho™ through its paces, to uphold the “Trail Honcho” name by putting it on a “black diamond” trail for full size vehicles. Axial takes toys seriously, plays seriously, and made plans to go the extra mile to showcase the Axial SCX10™ Trail Honcho™ in it’s true, namesake terrain.

Harley Designs

Axial SCX10-2 Trail Honcho RTR AX90059 – First Drive – Pre-Budget Build! Harley Designs has already released a number of videos on the Trail Honcho and detailed  the rig before it was even in his hands in the Budget Build Time! Axial SCX10-II Trail Honcho RTR video. After, he followed up with a first running video during a New Year’s Eve trip. The adventure on the rocks is pretty exciting and filmed from a number of perspectives including some drone shots and backed up with some great music. Harley Designs has also teamed up with Scale Builders Guild for a head to head budget build series on the rig. The number of episodes the Trail Honcho will go through has not yet been announced.

Scale Builders Guild

The Trail Honcho is Back! The Scale Builders Guild drops some knowledge on you about the big changes to the SCX10 II Trail Honcho, first going over the links that so many people are talking about. Mathew of SBG takes and compares an old link to a new link to show the difference between the two. His opinion of the new link? Well, you’ll need to watch it to find out. What we can tease is SBG’s overall opinion: “This is a great entry-level truck to fuel your new RC obsession! It’s got a great price point for an RTR and should be robust enough to tackle any trail.” And finally Mathew goes over a number of other changes to the rig and also talks about the budget build series with Harley Designs, using the Trail Honcho.

Hemistorm RC

LOW BUDGET FUN! – Axial SCX102 Trail Honcho Hemistorm RC dips right into the SCX10 II Honcho and delivers a great overview of the trucks new features and what he likes about the original Honcho. Hemistorm explains that at $329, getting the Axial scale experience with the SCX102 chassis has never been more affordable then it is with the Trail Honcho. He discusses the updates in the axle and link design, along with a the budget friendly Tactic radio. Stiff plastic links, single piece axle housings with a reinforced truss section and the use of the AX10 transmission case offer a solid base, along with all the electronics that we’ve seen proven in the other SCX102 platforms, as the Trail Honcho shares a lot of parts with the other versions, the Cherokees and the CRC JK. His overall opinion? The “Trail Honcho one of the most attractive ready-to-run RC trail trucks.”

Extreme Scale Performance RC

Axial AX90059 SCX10II Trail Honcho UNBOXED! If you like some raw unboxing with some suspension squishing, suspension flexing, tire squishing and even watching someone taking a hit of fresh tire smell, then Extreme Scale Performance has the video for you. CWC goes over all the details from the box to the rig from his side arm cam view. He gives you his deep thoughts and opinions on some of the new parts found on the Trail Honcho SCX10 II platform like the links, axles and transmission set-up. No drive time here, but plenty of detailed honest info.

RC Driver Online

The Honcho Returns! Better & Budget Friendly – Axial SCX10 II Trail Honcho Review This video is a long one folks, RC Driver Online unloads a thorough unboxing video giving you all the details you could possibly want and more about the Honcho. You want to know specifically what it comes with all the way to what changes were made in this specific SCX10 II RTR, it’s here. Then RC Driver goes on to talk about the differences in the Honcho kit in comparison to the two other SCX10 II ready to runs available at this time; the SCX10 II 2000 Jeep Cherokee and the SCX10 II 2017 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited CRC. After that tour, the Trail honcho is taken out for a frigid drive under some bridges in a snow covered park. Then the video is wrapped up with thoughts of the rigs performance. If you want to know everything about the Trail Honcho in one shot, sit back, relax, learn a whole lot and enjoy the drive with RC Driver.