Axialfest 2018 Skeeno Report Part 2


In Part 1 of the Axialfest 2018 Skeeno Report, I showed you the sights and sounds of Day 1, or Wednesday, at Axialfest 2018.  This is Part 2, and I will be recapping my Thursday at Axialfest 2018 where I visit more vendors, see more people trailing, go check out the Concourse builds, and finish the day off with the CKRC Dollar Dash!


Every day at Axialfest starts with a hearty breakfast. You need to fuel up for a full day of RC adventures.


Tree didn’t get his rig fixed last night because he lost a screwshaft in the dirt.  Luckily, most Axialfesters are happy to help each other out.  When Tony Mazza heard Tree was pouting about not being able to drive, Mr. Mazza dug into his spare parts bin and found just what Mr. Tree was looking for.


I spotted Mr. Colman aka Joshua Kaine Elliot aka ESP cruising around checking out the action.  He did tons of filming, so look for his video recaps of Axialfest 2018 coming soon!


I went to see who was out trailing and ran into these guys on the handicapped accessible trail along the side of the road.


Don’t be fooled by the looks of it. It was tougher than it looked.


As usual, large groups of friends and family were seen walking to trails and out on the trails.


Over in A camp, the Down With The Sickeness Crew was again rolling deep.  I think they have 100 members packed in there.


The slippery rocks down in the river bed always provide a challenge.




It’s important to remember to take a picture of your rigs at the beginning of every trail.


That banjo player was still pickin and grinnin, but it looks like his wifey left him. Maybe she’s cooking breakfast.  Do skeletons eat?


I wonder what that is.  I’ll have to stop by later when the Reef’s boys are around and ask them.


Chassis, chassis, chassis.  You know what that means?


Yup, CBE was back at Axialfest 2018, and they brought all the goodness with them.


Hi, Mr. CBE!


The coffee girls were back, and they bumped and danced and served up their coffee drinks all day.


Our EMT friends returned to make sure any medical issues were dealt with quickly.  But, now that people know to stay hydrated, it’s a pretty slow week for Mr. EMT.


RC4WD showed up on Thursday and brought out all the cool stuff.


They have some amazing scale accessories for Axial vehicles.


A working scale lift?  That makes changing muffler bearings a snap!


These guys were checking out the tire selections.


What did you win on the RC4WD Plinko game?  I think they were raffle tickets for a vehicle giveaway.


I spotted these amazing vintage trailers as I left the RC4WD booth.


The detail was unbelievable.


Oven, check. Stove, check. Hood vent, check.


Sink, check.  Dinette, check. Linoleum tiles, check.


Same thing in this one.


Both were beautiful.


Hey look, it’s Harley from Vanquish Products.


Tekin always has amazing vehicles.


The 3D printed 6×6 was back.  See the Yeti Jr in the back?


What up, Ty?


Of course they also have amazing ESCs and Motors, but these servos are what I envy the most.  They’d be a great compliment to my RX8/ROC412 in my Bomber. Feel free to send one my way, hint, hint.


I cruised past the pavillion.  It was set up and ready for Concourse later tonight.


Roof Top Tents seem like the best way to get a comfortable bed just about anywhere.


Hot Boyz! I believe this crew said they were from Metairie, New Orleans, Louisiana.


This crew from drove by and recognized the Hot Boyz as camp neighbors from last year.  New friends are always made at Axialfest.


I caught Big Tex Chris Zemek and Old Man Dan Wilson driving through some brush.


Looks a little too pokey to stand on.


This is either going to be cool or scary.  We’ll have to go check it out.


There was a something Jurassic eating a sub on the river. Is that Meg?


Someone should tell that kid not to swim in there. I’d hate to see him get eaten.


Smile, little Axialfester!


The river was a great spot in the hot afternoons.  Here this lady rests in the shade while still trailing through the gates.


This probably means that there are dinosuars around.  I better keep an eye out just to be safe.


This bridge made getting down to the waterfall easier.


I scooted back up to check out the concourse and ran into Eazy E aka Elio.  He blessed by with some limited edition Axialfest 2018 trail swag. Who else got one?


I got there just in time.  All the rigs were already lined up and ready to be judged.


Oh, man.  The Skeeno Altra 5K Bomber.  That HAS to win.  Look how cool it is.


There’s Mr. ESP doing his thang.  I hope he got good footage of the Skeeno Bomber.


The next several pictures are some of my favorites.This one here looks like a solid piece of American iron.


There’s nothing cooler than scale MATTRACKS.


This Land Cruiser looks ready for some overlanding action.


Work Horse.  I almost mistook this for one of the logging trucks transporting trees on the Fordyce access road.


You don’t see many Jeep Liberties out on the trail.


A scale engine bay always gets my attention.


This monster truck looks like it’s ready for the Crawl For A Cure.


Hmmm, will there be aliens at the Axialfest Monster Jam this year?


This Tacoma would be right at home on the Rubicon.


I wonder why I didn’t spot these Jurassic Jeeps down by the river.


Jurassic dinosaurs or Star Wars space creatures?


Another cool build by the guys at Tekin.


What’s for breakfast? Check out the garbage can with liner.


Mr. Kett, Mr. Knight, and Mr. Schultz hamming it up.


David and Dolly of KLP Hobbies made the trip from China for the second time.  Glad to have you guys back.


Matt Kett considered each entry very seriously.


Badger and Gerrish also discussed each rig before choosing their favorites.


Take a sip of the potion and hit the three wheel motion…


This great SCX10 lowrider made an appearance.


It was my favorite for its originality.  That’s all chromed out SCX10 under the body.


Mr. Coleman’s brought out this cool Land Rover.  I believe he named it Blud Muney.


The Axiallet was back, but this time it was business on the left…


and party on the right!


Go see these guys if you need and Axial haircut.  They’ll hook you up.


Elio was on the prowl for youngster with no rig.  If you were a kid and didn’t have a rig, you might have gotten a special raffle wristband to win a 2ChainzScalerz custom built rig at the Awards Ceremony.



This guy didn’t need a bracelet.  He was entered in the concourse.


Daily driver
1. Alec Va DenBrink – Liberty
2. Joe Zuniga – Hilux
3. Elio Dianda – Brute


1. Corey Hall – Goat
2. Todd Norton – Military 6×6
3. Bree Eral – Beetle


Monster truck
1. Paul Russel Jr – White/Blue MT
2. Ben Thomas – Black Truck
3. Cancer sucks – Kye Steiner


1. Daniel Flores – Jeep Trailer
2. James Tomlinson – Forerunner
3. Judd Rummage – Amain Bike trailer


1. Daniel Flores – Jeep Trailer
2. James Tomlinson – Forerunner
3. Judd Rummage – Amain Bike trailer


12 and under
1. Ina Eral – Unicorn
2. Sadie Silva – Dinosaur Wraith
3. Joe Zuniga – Blue Jeep

PS The Unicorn is amazing!


Best Theme
1. Bree Eral – Dragon 6×6
2. Devlin Shipley – Scooby Buggy:
3. Chris Harder – Radioactive FC


1. Jacob Simpson – 6×6 Flatbed
2. Dominic Reyes – Green Flatbed
3. Jensen LeBlanc – F350 SD


1. Ty Campbell – Dakar Truck
2. Matt Hauck – Wrangler/ Powerwagon
3. Chris Prestwood – SBC Power Wagon


1. Jay Jaffe – Silver Otterpops
2. Mike Thompson – Red Altra
3. Dean Farrington – Black/ Orange


After Concourse, it time for dinner!


Sirloins, corn on the cob, and mashed potatos!


The smell attracted our old friend from Costa Rica, Adolfo Gutierrez.


This year he brought the whole Pura Vida! Crew out to Axialfest 2018.  We missed seeing Marcos Rojas, so maybe next year, my friend.


After dinner, it was time for the CKRC Dollar Dash.  Mrs. Heather man (or womaned) the sign ups.


1 Lap = $1, fastest time wins ALL the cash!


Many competitors got slipped up on the PVC bridge.


The good times usually go late into the night.


That’s Old Man Dan.  He’s won the Dollar Dash for the past few years. Did he defend his crown again?  You’ll have to wait for the awards ceremony to find out.

Check out Axialfest 2018 Skeeno Report Part 3 where I will recap what I saw on Friday at Axialfest 2018.

Keep Track Of Your Packs On The Trail

It’s getting close! As of the time we’re writing this blog, Axialfest 2018 is only a few weeks away and that means attendees are kicking their builds and prep into overdrive to be ready for the epic weekend of off-road action. One comment we’ve seen frequently from drivers is “Can’t wait to pack up my battery packs, turn on my rig and head out on the trails.” Hikers will spend all day on the trails trying out the many courses laid out and some even venture off and find other challenging terrain. This goes on day and night and those long drives will eventually eat through battery packs. Battery changes can be frequent and we’ve seen a number of drivers on the trails with a pack in each hand wondering which one was charged and which is the discharged pack they took out of their rig a few hours ago. So we’ve decided to show you a few simple tips to keep track of your packs so it minimizes your downtime while hiking around Axialfest. These tips will of course work anytime, anywhere so read on to make your RC life much easier.

The answer to keeping track of your packs is simply tags. Using a tagging method to keep track of your packs will make trail time so much more fun. Even for those entering the Altra Ultra 5K where saving time could make the difference in how you place in the event. Here are a number of ways to simply tag your packs so you know what is charged and what is not.

Bread Bag Tag
Axial Tags x 5
Start saving those little plastic tags that come on your plastic bread bags or english muffins. These little tags make great ID tags for your packs. Once you’ve collected a bunch, use a black permanent marker and simply make check marks on some and X marks on others. Now you can slip the check marked tags on your charged packs and put the X tags on discharged packs. We also suggest clipping or lightly sanding any sharp areas of the tag hole so it doesn’t harm your battery wire insulation.

Axial Tags x 3
Many hardware stores carry packs of rubber caps for multiple uses. These caps look like your rubber antenna cap, but larger. Find caps that will fit over your specific connector. Find two different colors to indicate charged and discharged packs. The caps will also protect your connector from the rare instance of a short while its bouncing around in your backpack.

Rubber Bands
Axial Tags x 2
Good old rubber bands to the rescue. With rubber bands, you can simply wrap them around your charged packs and when you go to install the pack in your car remove the rubber band. Now any pack that has been removed later and does not have a rubber band means the pack is discharged.

Axial Tags x 4
A simple piece of masking tape (obviously green is preferred here) with one end folded over before placing it on the battery can help indicate a charged pack. When you go to install the pack in your rig, peel the tape off and you now know in the future that battery has been used.

Be organized
Axial Tags x 1
Being organized and tagging your battery will make your trip much more fun. We urge you to follow all safety precautions outlined in the instructions that came with your battery packs. When traveling by car or out on the trails, make sure your extra packs are stored in safe transport carriers. Many will put their packs in LiPo sacks before putting them in their backpack for a days run. Sure your day should be filled with fun, but safety is always number one. See you at Axialfest.

Skeeno’s Axialfest 2018 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Build

After AXIALFEST2017, I started thinking that I needed to update my trailing rig.  Last year, I built a new racer for for the Altra Ultra 5K Enduro, but I needed something new to run on all the trials at AXIALFEST2018.


As luck would have it, Brown Santa dropped off some Green Tape just before the Christmas season.  Merry Christmas to me!


When I opened up the box, it was packed with the new SCX10 2 2017 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited CRC.  This would be a great new trailing rig for AXIALFEST2018!


My buddy, Mr. Werty over at WertyMade contacted me as soon as he found out I had the new rig.  He wanted to use it as a test mule for some parts he was making; rear bumpers, front bumpers, and rock sliders. Since we’ve been RC nerd friends for many years, I happily agreed to lend him my new trailing rig.


He returned it to me in even better than tip top shape.  All the parts he test fitted, he left on there for me, score!  I immediately started thinking about the things I wanted to modify and add to improve the performance and looks of the 2017 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited CRC. First up was to get a spare tire and some RotopaX on the rear bumper.


Mr. Werty repossessed those D Rings, so that was one item I wanted to replace on that sweet front stinger.


Check out those sweet sliders, indexed to hold the body, just like the stock plastic ones, but these are made out of steel.  The wrench logo in a nice touch, too.


Next up was a new set of socks and shoes.  I’ve always liked beadlocks and the classic Axial 1.9 Beadlocks were my first choice.  Just as I got the wheels, Werty annouced these new Wrench Rings, and I just had to have a set.


Look how awesome the rings look.


In order to add a little crawling performance, I like to add some weight in the wheels to lower the center of gravity.  The Axial Internal Rings are a perfect fit. I also swapped out to a slightly beefier looking tire, the BFG All-Terrains are a classic tire and the KO2 version is even better than the original.


They mount up easily, and you can adjust the weight using the inserts.


At this point, I was loving this wheel/tire/ring combo, but I wasn’t digging looking at the electronics through the wheel wells.


It was starting to look pretty good, but I still had a ways to go.


Next up, I needed to add some swag to the rear.


Since I wasn’t using the stock Nitto Trail Grabbers, I pressed one into service as the spare tire.


Next, I hit up my local hobby shop, CKRC Hobbies and picked up these RotopaX gas cans from Scale by Chris AKA SBC.


Don’t worry, the tire rack swings away, so you can still get into the back of the Jeep.


Another modification I like to do is the 3654 Mod to the wheel hexes.  Eazy Elio from Two Chainz Scalerz taught me this trick to give any Axial scaler a slighly wider stance. Since the stock hexes are about 3mm, this modification adds about 10mm of width to the SCX10 2.


While I was at CKRC picking up the SBC RotopaX cans, I spotted these brass 8mm hexes from Team KNK. It might be slight, but the brass hexes will also lower the center of gravity slighty.


They fit perfectly and come with new wheel nuts and set screws to secure them to the axles.


Next up was adding some wheel wells to hide the electronics.  I used the wheel wells for the original SCX10.


They aren’t a perfect fit, but with a little creativity with the scissors, they worked out pretty well.


The curve of the Jeep Wrangler body means you have to trim the fronts quite a bit.


I ended up trimming that front tab off because I was worried it would hang up on twigs and things on the trail.


After a little black paint, they look great.


Black helps hide all the imperfections.


That’s WAY better than before; no more unsightly wires can be seen under there.


I almost forgot to mention this cool feature on the WertyMade bumper. Those four holes are for mounting a rear winch if you want one…


And that hole is a bottle opener for those times when you need to hydrate during wrenching sessions!


Next, it was time to add a some interior to give it a little more scale look, as well as to hide the electronics a little more.  I heard from the Anthony Rivas of Rivas Concepts and Matt Kett from the Scale Builders Guild that the 2012 Jeep Wrangler body was a perfect fit.


Sadly, I had to kill a perfectly good body.  If you want to try this, you can probably find an old body from one of your local RC buddies to cut up.


Be sure to cut around the lights and fender flares.


The rear view mirror mounting holes make a great mounting point.  The two screws hold the front securely.


I found that the door handle impressions lined up perfectly and made getting it in evenly easy.


I cut a big hole to allow for the rear body mounts to pass through.


Don’t worry, with the tinted rear windows, you can only see it if you are staring directly into the rear windows.


Looking good so far. Time for paint.


I wavered between black, red, and silver before settling on the silver.  I was happy with my choice because the bright color makes the interior pop against the red.


That’s what I’m talking about.  No more unsightly electrics can be seen in there.


Earlier, I got distracted by that big open space in the front bumper. TIme to remedy that.


I pulled the winch off my old SCX10 and it mounted up easily.  It even had a matching red hook.


Oh yeah! that looks way better with the winch in there.


I found some D rings on some old parts trees to replace the ones Mr. Werty repossessed. I even put one on the rear bumper.


Back to the interior.  Sticker time!


I kept it pretty simple in here.  The only thing I added was the steering wheel I had in my parts box.  Low Rider Style with the chain ring.




Bam! The silver and black really contrasts well against the red.


There it is mounted up, two screws through the mirror holes and a little tape hold it in.


There’s the mirror screws holding the mirrors on and the interior in.


I also found some wipers on the spare parts tree and mounted them up.


I really like the clean looks of it.

51 She’s just about ready to conquer all the trails at AXIALFEST2018!


I just wanted to add a couple more scale details.  First I added the molded door handles.

IMG_20180427_203454 (1)

A bonus of the door handles is they also hold the interior in place.


Then, I added the molded hood latches.  Both of these come on the spare parts trees in the box.


I had to give it a quick trail run to test it out.


I must say, this rig handles amazingly well.

58I’m thinking this rig is going to be amazing at AXIALFEST2018!


One last item before I wrap up this build.  I need a few more lumens than the stock headlights, so I decided to add the JRC Offroad Roof Rack.


Looks pretty good up there even though it’s originally meant for the 2000 Jeep Cherokee.


The Rigid Light Bar fits perfectly up there.



I used the 8 String LED and 3 Port High Output LED Controller.


I’m really loving the look and capabilities of this rig.



I’m definitely ready to emark on the adventures that Axialfest 2018 holds. I just wish July 18th would get here already!


Suspension Link Types Explained


There is no shortage of suspension design types in the RC world, but for trail trucks and other off-road adventure vehicles, one of the most preferred suspension styles is the link type. Links are typically a long fixed plastic bar or long metal rod with ball-ends on each end that stretch from points on the chassis to the trucks axle. Sounds pretty simple right? There is a bit more to it. There are several link set-up types and Axial vehicles such as the SCX10 and SCX10 II use different type of link setups. There are three different designs used; a 3-Link, 4-Link and a 3-Link with panhard bar setup. Here we’ll go over what each style looks like and their performance attributes.


A 3-Link suspension setup can commonly be found on the front of the SCX10 platform. Two lower links, one on each side, span from the skid to the lower axle tubes. The third link is located up higher to secure the axle from rotating. Here an upper Y-link is used for the third link. It mounts to the frame and spans to a single center point/ mount on the top of the axle.

3-Link Suspension

A 3-Link setup rotates the axle around the moving vertical pivot during articulation and can result in some axle sway.


The 4-Link design is similar to the 3-Link in regard to how the lower links span from the skid-plate to the axle housings in a triangulated format. However the top link is slightly different. The top utilizes two links that span from the inner frame to two pivot points on the top of the axle in the center.


The 4-Link suspension design moves in a much linear path than the 3-Link and results in less axle sway, steer and reduces the effects of torque twist.


Now, are you ready for the description of a 3-Link with panhard bar? Brace yourselves, it’s actually made up of 4-Links. It’s similar to a “4-Link design” but with one upper link purposely missing. So if you’re one of those people who have opened your kit and said to yourself; Hey a link is missing, it’s not supposed to be there. To prevent the axle from shifting in this style of suspension design, a “panhard” bar is used; the fourth link. A panhard bar runs from the frame perpendicular to the other links and mates up with a mounting boss on the axle carrier.

3-Link With Panhard

This suspension setup offers smooth linear articulation without the axle sway associated with a 3-Link system.


Although we’ve discussed the different type of link designs in a simple format, there is a bit more to it such as anti-squat, roll center, anti-dive and other tuning options that further differentiate each, but that is for another discussion. The style of links found on your specific SCX10 model are there by design to deliver articulation for optimum performance.

Pick The Right Axial Model For You


Axial is a company of enthusiasts for enthusiasts. Axial develops extremely high end radio control models of vehicles that you are likely to see in the great outdoors. These models are designed to generate a tremendous amount of reliable fun that can be experienced by the whole family. Whether you are a beginner looking for a new adventure or a seasoned hobby veteran, Axial offers a platform for you to personalize and enjoy in every environment. The Axial team encourages you to get outside and have some family fun! But wait… Which Axial vehicle should you get? Axial offers a selection of orr-road adventure machines and each has their strengths for certain environments. Let’s go over each vehicle and their strengths to help you decide which Axial vehicle is right for you to start with. We have to warn you, it might not be easy to choose, but as your hobby grows there is another selection at Axial to meet your needs.


Pick The Right Axial 3 Pick The Right Axial 4
The SCX10™ platform is an already proven chassis-of-choice for scale enthusiasts around the globe. If you can hike there, your SCX10™ will drive there! With today’s efficient motor and long lasting batteries, you are only limited by your imagination and/or your physical readiness to adventure out onto a hike while driving your SCX10™. It’s a great way to get in touch with nature and spend time with friends and family while having a ton of fun doing so!
The SCX10 features a tough metal c-channel frame, proven axle design, low-CG transmission, ready to run electronics that has the power to tackle rough trail driving and backyard bashing. The SCX10 is topped off by a body that screams go for an adventure and licensed tires are ready to grip any surface.

WHO IS IT FOR: Off-road trail adventurer looking for a vehicle that can reach speeds of a brisk walking pace.
KIT OR RTR: Ready To Run
PRICE RANGE: $299.99
STYLES: AX90044 SCX10™ Deadbolt™


Pick The Right Axial 13 Pick The Right Axial 14
The SCX10™ II is the culmination of many years of development, furthering aesthetic realism while maximizing trail performance. The SCX10™ II features an all-metal twin c-channel frame rails, but that’s only 2% of the 98% of a completely new design. Scale AR44™ high pinion axles, a chassis mounted servo (CMS), re-designed transmission, front mounted battery tray, all aluminum suspension links, and a properly designed suspension for nearly zero bump steer. These are just a few of the features built into the all new SCX10™ II.

WHO IS IT FOR: Like the SCX10, the SCX10 II is for the Off-road trail adventurer looking for a vehicle that can reach speeds of a brisk walking pace and tackle terrain that is a bit more aggressive.
KIT OR RTR: Kit and Ready To Run
PRICE RANGE: $329.99 to $409.99
STYLES: AX90059 SCX10 II™ Trail Honcho, AX90060 SCX10 II™ 2017 Jeep® Wrangler Unlimited CRC, AX90047 SCX10 II™ 2000 Jeep® Cherokee, AX90046 SCX10 II™ 2000 Jeep® Cherokee – Kit


Pick The Right Axial 5 Pick The Right Axial 9
With the Yeti Jr.™ SCORE® Trophy Truck® – RTR, everything that existing Axial drivers have come to love and appreciate in the Yeti chassis, has been incorporated into a machine only now in 1/18th scale. It’s powered by a 380-sized brushed motor which provides the perfect amount of torque and speed for this tiny Trophy Truck® monster. Also featuring an all-in-one programmable Tactic ESC and receiver, paired with a 3-wire micro high torque steering servo. At the end of the day, the goal was to build a simple, fun, and easy to drive Yeti that anyone can handle. The hardest part about the Yeti Jr.™ SCORE® Trophy Truck® is making sure you have enough battery packs charged in order to keep the adventure alive!

WHO IS IT FOR: For those working with smaller running spaces but still demand maximum terrain bashing performance.
KIT OR RTR: Ready To Run Only
PRICE RANGE: $159.99
STYLES: AX90052 Yeti Jr.™ SCORE® Trophy Truck®, AX90054 Yeti Jr.™

YETI 1/10-

Pick The Right Axial 8

Pick The Right Axial 7

Available in kit or ready to run form, the Yeti™ SCORE® Trophy Truck® is a purposely engineered desert truck with a solid rear axle and independent front suspension. Make no bones about it, this is not a short course truck nor is it designed for the sugar coated and manicured racetracks of R/C. This Trophy Truck is designed for the roughest of conditions and REAL DIRT. We beg for the dirt and rocks to be brought back to off-road! There are reasons why full size Trophy Trucks feature the four link suspension design; durability, capability, and improved forward bite without sacrificing suspension travel. Full-size Trophy Trucks inspired the distinct aesthetic and technical elements of this truck, right down to the solid rear axle. The retro inspired body features design queues from a 1960’s era roof-line, classic 1970’s wheel arches and glass shapes from the 1980’s. Giving this kit an extra bit of modern contrast comes in the form of fluorescent orange Method 105 wheels. This kit version will accept standard 1/10th scale brushed and brushless 4-pole systems and most major stick pack batteries. Precision machined aluminum shocks are standard equipment and deliver smooth suspension movement for consistent handling.

WHO IS IT FOR: The Yeti is exactly what it sounds like, a beast on the terrain. This off-road performer is fast and can handle anything from loose dirt to rugged rocky surfaces.
KIT OR RTR: Kit or Ready To Run
STYLES: AX90068 Yeti™ SCORE® Trophy Truck®, AX90050 Yeti™ SCORE® Trophy Truck®, AX90025 Yeti™ buggy kit, AX90026 Yeti™ RTR


Pick The Right Axial 1 Pick The Right Axial 2
The Axial Yeti XL™ Monster Buggy – a new category, a new frontier, a new dimension. From the beginning of the concept through the design phase, we drew upon our brand philosophy to develop and deliver something different to the R/C monster truck arena. Monster trucks are known for bashability, so we jumped head first into the segment by creating a vehicle with insane brushless power along with features that would allow it to withstand the abuse that comes with the territory. From the outset, the goal of maintaining brand heritage was a priority. Our research and development team took those traits and attributes, mixed them with the Axial design ethos which is heavily rooted in full size rock racing, and developed what could be considered the next level in R/C monster truck design.

WHO IS IT FOR: Size matters and if you need to go big, go bold and have loads of power on tap to obliterate the terrain than the Yeti XL is the perfect fit for your aggressive driving nature.
PRICE RANGE: $499.99
STYLES: AX90038 Yeti™ XL Buggy


Pick The Right Axial 10 Pick The Right Axial 11
The RR10 Bomber is a build-it-yourself kit and is offered in ready to run form too and is considered the ultimate rock racer! The kit version features hard anodized aluminum suspension links, hard anodized aluminum steering links, long travel rear sway bar, hardened steel universal axles allowing up to 50 degrees of steering, aluminum lower link plates, and King adjustable machined aluminum shocks, all riding on sticky BFGoodrich® Baja T/A® KR2 tires wrapped around 2.2 Walker Evans Racing beadlock wheels. We’ve also included heavy duty bevel gears in the front and rear axles for improved gear mesh, and increased strength.

WHO IS IT FOR: Want to get the experience of driving like the rigs you see at the King Of Hammers, but without the price tag of the full scale machine or the build hours. The RR10 can deliver the excitement of raw power and rock thrashing, just on a smaller scale.
KIT OR RTR: Kit or Ready To Run
PRICE RANGE: $359.99- $399.99
STYLES: AX90053 RR10 Bomber Kit, AX90048 RR10 Bomber RTR


Pick The Right Axial 16 Pick The Right Axial 17
The Wraith™ Ready-to-Run 1/10th Scale Electric 4WD Rock Racer is another “FIRST” for Axial with the first and most realistic full tube-frame chassis design that is manufactured with high strength composite materials. The Wraith™ IS BUILT TO GO FAST and is not just a low speed rock crawler. Each style of Wraith is packed with performance features and option parts that you add as you build it. The virtually bulletproof AR60 OCP axles are ready to take the Spawn through its paces whether blasting through the wide open desert or hammering its way through the toughest rock trails. The 2.2 Maxxis Trepador tires are a proven true grip standard, wrapped around industry proven Method IFD™ beadlock wheels. Whether you are rock racing or backyard bashing, the Wraith™ Spawn is ready for action.

WHO IS IT FOR: Looking for the best of many off-road worlds? The Wraith is a proven rock racer that can also dominate the hiking trails with high speed performance and suspension that adapts to a variety of environments.
KIT OR RTR: Kit or Ready To run
PRICE RANGE: $329.99- $399.99
STYLES: AX90045 Wraith Spawn, AX90031 Jeep® Wrangler Wraith-Poison Spyder Rock Racer, AX90018 Wraith RTR, AX90056 Wraith Spawn Kit


Pick The Right Axial 6 Pick The Right Axial 12
Monster trucks are a never ending automotive attraction that captures anyone’s attention and the trucks featured in Monster Jam®. Axial went all out when designing the chassis and roll cage for the SMT10™ Monster Jam® Truck. Very similar to modern era full size monster trucks, this chassis was developed for maximum strength and an extremely detailed appearance. The truck also features tough AR60, long travel aluminum body shocks, licensed BKT tires and the styling to ensure you have a true mini Monster Jam experience.

WHO IS IT FOR: If you’re determined to crush anything in your RC vehicles path from a row of cans, backyard flower beds or just go out for some general big wheel bashing, the SMT10 can handle anything you would expect from a Monster Jam style truck.
KIT OR RTR: Ready To Run Only
PRICE RANGE: $329.99
STYLES: AX90057 MAX-D Monster Jam Truck, AX90055 Grave Digger Monster Jam Truck

mAh Per Mile – The Quest To Determine Run Time


If you’ve ever sat around the campfire at an RC event or perhaps camped out with some buddies on an epic multi-day RC trail adventure, you may have heard the tale of “mAh Per Mile.” As the tale goes, a rugged RC adventurer, gear junkie, and as legend has it, talented Global Marketing Director has been spotted wandering some well worn trails through California. The man, well supplied with all the contents needed for a trail hike is on some sort of mission. Passer-bys stare at him in wonder as he trudges through the less taken path, his head down and muttering to himself. What is he saying? What is he doing. On one trail, the Redonda Ridge Trail it was evident things were getting more serious. He now travels in a herd of RC trail adventurers and some of his mutters turned into recognizable phrases. “mAh Per Mile” “mAh Per Mile” he kept repeating.

mAh Battery

What is this “mAh Per Mile?” It actually may be the answer to an age old RC question; “How long will my RC truck run for?” Real cars are rated by miles per gallon to determine how far can you travel. But there hasn’t been anything comparable in the RC world to define how far an RC rig can go. Well, we actually know who that mystery trail adventurer is, it’s Rodney Wills and for the longest time, he’s been determined to deliver answers to some of RC’s important questions and how long can you drive your SCX10 for is one. Rodney is on a mission to put numbers on paper and his quest to do so has been deemed “mAh Per Mile.”

This blog post will serve as an evolving report of a talented Axial team put together by Rodney to determine an answer to the burning question. The team will be testing different batteries, different rigs all in an effort to get out of the office and have fun on the trails. WAIT! I mean test RC equipment for the good of telling you how much time and fun you can get from your Axial adventure machine. Watch the videos and keep checking back to the Axial Blog to see how the science, testing and general goofing off unravels.

mAh Per Mile – Explaining Gas Mileage for Your Rig

There’s one question we hear a lot – how far will your rig go on one battery? To find the answer, we’ve created a little formula; mAh Per Mile. In Part 1 of this series, we break down the ‘how far will it go’ question and fill you in on how we plan to find out using this formula.

mAh Per Mile – Part 2 – Testing Our Mileage on the Trail

In Part 1, we discussed the idea behind mAh Per Mile – how far can your vehicle go on a specified battery pack. In Part 2, we take 3 Axial SCX10 II rigs out (with different electronic setups) to see how far we can go on a 2000mAh LiPo battery. The results are actually quite revealing…

Axial Radio System Cheat Sheet


A radio control transmitter should be a device used to control the fun of your vehicle and never the device that controls you and scares you away from using your machine. The transmitters that come with Axial Ready To Run vehicles are simple by design so they are user friendly and comfortable while using the control. These radio systems will come preset from the factory so you can instantly use your machine. But even with the simplified radio systems, there will still be a few things you should to know to get the most out of the radio. Simple things like servo reversing, trims or even how many batteries it takes. In this Radio System Cheat Sheet article we’ve gathered up all of the radios used in Axial ready to runs in one spot for your convenience and simply list out the important functions of your radio and how to use them. Think you’ll get hung up when making adjustments on your radio? This is certainly one blog post to  bookmark.



This radio packs a punch for a compact radio system. It is loaded with digital trim functions that make it a great radio for general hobby use. These digital trims can set advanced features like end point adjustments and dual rate, however you need to know how to use the radio properly to access these features. Here are a few tips to get your radio set up and Axial rig dialed in. TTX200 AA Batteries- First things first, you need to install four AA batteries into the radio for power. This is done by accessing the battery slots located at the bottom of the radio. Make certain to note the orientation of the batteries. A small diagram is molded into the back lower portion of the handle.

Binding- Your TTX200 radio and reciever will come linked with your RTR model, but in case something happens and the two components are not “speaking” to each other, here is how to link the them. Turn on your TTX200 and then connect power to the receiver by turning on your ESC. If the LED light in the receiver blinks once and stays on, it is linked. If not, you’ll need to use a small hex driver to depress the receiver Link button until the LED blinks and shuts off. Then you can let go. The LED should now come on constantly indicated the system is linked.

BINDING VIDEO TTX200 Trims Steering Trim/ Throttle Trim- Accessing the trim functions of the radio are an easy task. The buttons are located at the top of the radio and are clearly labeled. If an adjustment needs to be made to center the steering or adjust the neutral point of the transmitter, it can be done by depressing the marked trim. The center of the trim can be idendified by depressing the either button of the trim until you see the LED flash indicating the center point.

Steering Reversing- With the transmitter off, hold the top ST Trim button and power the radio on. The LED will flash once and then turn off. Release the button. The LED will then turn on to confirm the steering channel has been reversed.

Throttle Reversing- With the transmitter off, hold the top TH Trim button and power the radio on. The LED will flash once and then turn off. Release the button. The LED will then turn on to confirm the throttle channel has been reversed.

Steering End Point Adjustment- To set the maximum limit of rotation for steering in both left and right direction, turn the radio on. Turn the wheel to full left direction and hold. Press the ST Trim buttons to increase or decrease the travel limits. Follow the same procedure to then set the right turn limits.



The Tactic TTX300 comes with a number of Axial ready to run models and is a radio many seasoned RC enthusiasts trust. This radio has all the basic trim functions you’ll need for your model and more. This radio is a three channel radio which means you can even add additional functionality such as setting it up for winch control later on. But let’s not get too far ahead, let’s go over it’s functionality. TTX300 AA

Battery- The battery door slides out form the bottom of the radio. Insert four AA batteries to power the radio making certain the batteries are installed according to the diagram in the battery cradle. TTX300 on Binding- With the radio on, power up the receiver as well. Push and hold the receiver’s “BIND” button until its LED glows red and then turns off after about one second. Release the bind button. If the binding is successful, the LED will flash once and then remain on.


Steering Reversing Switch/ Throttle Reversing Switch- These switches are located on the back of the transmitter next to the on/off switch.

Steering Reversing Switch- Use this switch to correct the direction of the steering servo. Remember when the vehicle is pointing away from you, steering the transmitter to the right should turn the wheels to the right and vice-versa for left.

Throttle Reversing Switch- Use this switch to correct the direction of movement of the vehicle when the transmitters throttle trigger is moved. Remember forward movement is achieved when the trigger is pulled towards the transmitters grip and away for reverse. TTX300 Trims

Steering End Point 1. Enter programming mode. 2. LEFT EPA: Turn wheel full counterclockwise, use 3rd channel push buttons to adjust. 3. RIGHT EPA: Turn wheel full clockwise, use 3rd channel push buttons to adjust.

Throttle End Point 1. Enter programming mode. 2. Throttle EPA: Pull trigger to the full throttle position, use 3rd channel push buttons to adjust. 3. Brake EPA: Push trigger to the full brake position, use 3rd channel push buttons to adjust.

EPA VIDEO Channel 3 – Multi-Position- The TTX300 3rd channel can be programmed to function as 2 position, 3 position, 4 position or proportional control switch. Selecting each position and end points for each position are performed simultaneously. The default position of CH3 is 2 position. To change the function of CH3, follow these steps:

1. Enter programming mode: Press and hold the top push button, power ON transmitter. Continue to hold until the LED flashes five times. Release the top push button.

2. Use CH3 push buttons to adjust CH3 accessory/servo to desired 1st position. Turn steering wheel clockwise (right) to confirm position1. The LED will flash one time to confirm position 1 has been saved. Note: Press and holding CH3 push buttons will adjust rapidly. Press and release will finely adjust positions. First use CH3 buttons to set. Then turn wheel clockwise to confirm.

3. Use CH3 push buttons to adjust CH3 accessory/servo to desired 2nd position. Turn steering wheel clockwise (right) to confirm position 2. The LED will flash two times to confirm position 2 has been saved. If programming for two position switch, skip to step 6. Otherwise, proceed to step 5 to program 3rd or 4th position.

4. If programming as 3 or 4 position switch, follow the procedures in steps 2 and 3 and select additional positions (3 and/or 4). Turn steering wheel clockwise (right) to confirm each individual position. The LED will flash in relation to the position that is being saved. Three flashes is 3rd position, 4 flashes is 4th position. Proceed to step 6 when programming as 3 or 4 position switch has been completed.

5. To program CH3 as proportional, enter programming mode and select desired position 1 as listed in Step 2 above. Use CH3 push buttons to adjust to desired end point and turn steering wheel clockwise four times. The LED will flash five times to confirm the position has been saved.

6. After programming of CH3 is completed, turn off transmitter to save settings.

Reverse- Press and hold the bottom push button and power ON transmitter. The LED will flash one time. After 3 seconds, the LED will flash two times when performed correctly. Release the bottom push button.



The Axial AX-3 Transmitter came with many early Axial kits. Current Axial kits come with the Tactic brand transmitters. However the AX-3 is still used by many drivers today. If you have a model equipped with this radio system, here some usage notes and the details for making adjustments.


Battery- The AX3 requires four AA batteries for power. To access the battery cradle, slide the battery door out and insert the batteries. Be aware of the polarity as indicated by the positive and negative moldings in the cradle. AX3 Trims

Steering Reversing Switch- This switch is located under the control cover. Use this switch to correct the direction of the steering servo. Remember when the vehicle is pointing away from you, steering the transmitter to the right should turn the wheels to the right and vice-versa for left.

Throttle Reversing Switch- This switch is located under the control cover. Use this switch to correct the direction of movement of the vehicle when the transmitters throttle trigger is moved. Remember forward movement is achieved when the trigger is pulled towards the transmitters grip and away for reverse.

Steering Trim- Use the steering trim dial to fine tune your vehicles steering. When the steering wheel is in the neutral position, your vehicle should track straight. If it does not, adjust the trim until the vehicle drives in a straight line.

Throttle Trim- If the vehicle is rolling forward while the trigger is in the neutral position, adjust the trottle trim until the vehicle is at a standstill at neutral.

Steering Dual Rate- This knob adjusts the amount of steering throw equally for both left and right. If you have too much steering, dial the Dual Rate down. If you have too little steering, turn the Dual Rate up.


Binding- 1. Make sure the transmitter and ESC are off. 2. Plug the Bind plug included with your Axial Racing vehicle in the receiver’s third port (labeled “CH3) 3. Turn on speed control. The receiver’s status LED will blink. The blinking indicates the AR-3 is in Bind mode. 4. Open transmitter’s cover located on the top of the case. 5. Using the included pin-shaped tool, press and hold Bind button on the AX-3 transmitter 6. Turn on the AX-3 transmitter. 7. When blinking stops on the AR-3 receiver, remove Bind plug from receiver.


Antenna- This particular radio system has a folding antenna that neatly folds down onto the radio when not in use. However when it is in use, it is best to position the antenna up for maximum radio range. Don’t skip this step when running.


ON/ OFF SWITCH- The radio should always be turned on first (before the vehicle) and off last.

STEERING- When the wheel on the radio is facing you, turning it to the right should result in the vehicle steering to the right when it is pointing away from you. Steering the wheel to the left should turn the vehicle left.

THROTTLE- Forward movement is achieved when the trigger is pulled towards the transmitters grip and away for reverse.

RECEIVER CONNECTIONS- If you have removed the servo and ESC plugs from the receiver, remember to reinstall them in the correct slots. The steering servo is always plugged into channel 1 and the ESC is always plugged into channel 2.

How To – Servo and Servo Horn Replacement


The steering system on a full-size off-road vehicle takes a lot of abuse. It is the same with RC. Whether you’re driving fast over bumps and jumps with an Yeti or crawling over rocks with an SCX10 II or doing a little of both with a Wraith, the steering is constantly taking hits. Whatever you hit, roll over or dig up onto, usually contacts the steering system first. In a similar fashion, and again just as it is in full-size off-road, one of the best ways to improve the capabilities of your RC vehicle is to make improvements its steering system. Instead of installing a hydraulic assist, in RC, we upgrade the servo. Instead of installing a custom pitman arm, in RC, we use an aluminum servo horn. These upgrades are simple tasks that can be performed by hobbyists of any experience level (if you aren’t an adult, get adult assistance and/or supervision).

Installing a New Servo Horn

Axial Servo Swap How To 2

STEP 1. Depending on your model, it may be necessary to remove some components to make servo access easier. On this SCX10, the bumper and cross-member have been removed.

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STEP 2. Remove the servo horn. The horn is most likely retained by a Phillips head screw, or a 2 mm screw. Either way, the screw is easy to access and remove. There may be a lock washer under the screw, so be careful not to lose it. Set this hardware aside. A small dish or tray is handy to prevent losing parts. Pull the servo horn off the servo.

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STEP 4. Select your new servo horn. Axial offers heavy aluminum servo horns that are essentially indestructible. These horns are offered in 23, 24 and 25 spline counts to fit any brand of servo. Axial servos use 25 spline count output shafts. These servo horns are highly recommended and go a long way towards improving a vehicle’s reliability. They should, however, only be used with heavy-duty metal gear servos that can withstand the forces that will be pass through the steering to the servo.

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STEP 5. Attach the steering link to the servo horn. This is pretty simple. Note that even if you use a servo horn with threaded holes, you still need a locknut on the screw that attaches the link to the horn.

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STEP 6. The vehicle must be powered up to properly install a new servo horn. Install a battery and turn on your transmitter. Plug in the battery and turn your vehicle on. Next, set your transmitter’s steering trim (channel 1) to zero. If your transmitter has sub trim, you need to also set that to zero for steering. After the trims have been set to zero, you can turn off the vehicle and then the transmitter.

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STEP 7. Slide the servo horn onto the output shaft and secure it with the main center screw. Axial’s HD servo horns are a double clamping design, so if you’re using one, you will also need to tighten the two 1.5 mm screws on the sides of the horn. Tighten all three screws down tight. Thread lock is not recommended on any of these screws. If you find, over time, that the main screw repeatable loosens and using a new screw doesn’t help, you can use a small amount of medium strength thread lock. Never use high strength thread lock.

Removing an Old Servo

Refer to Steps 1 & 2 above to remove the servo horn from the installed servo.

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STEP 3. Open the radio box using a 2 mm wrench (it may vary by model). With the lid removed, you will be able to carefully unplug the servo lead from the receiver. Again, be careful so that you do not damage the receiver and its internal circuit board. The servo lead (wires connecting it to the receiver) may be attached to the chassis in some places with cable ties. It is essential that you be extremely careful when cutting any cable ties as you could easily damage the small wires.

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STEP 4. Before removing the servo, take note as to which side the output shaft sits. The servo itself is retained by four screws. These may be Phillips or hex. Some screws may have built-in wide shoulders and others may have washers. Either way, carefully put this hardware aside. The servo can now be removed and set aside.

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STEP 5. Place the new servo on its mounting plate. Servos can vary in size, but Axial vehicles have adjustable servo mounts. If you do need to adjust the servo mount (one is in a fixed position and one adjusts), the process is the same on SCX10 and Wraith, which all feature servos mounted directly on the front axle. On these vehicles, with the new servo set aside, remove the mounting plate from the axial. You can make this process easier by disconnecting the upper links and the upper shock mounts. This will allow the axle assembly to pivot forward and give you much better access to the screws attaching the servo mounting plate to the axle. After you remove the servo mounting plate, turn it over and locate the screw securing the adjustable mount. To identify this mount, look for the screw going into an oval shaped hole. The oval shape is what allows for the side-to-side adjustment for narrow or wide servos. Now, simply loosen the screw a small amount (usually a partial turn is all that’s needed) and test fit your new servo. Holding the servo in place, tighten the screw back down. Remove the servo and reinstall the servo mounting plate to the axle. You can now reconnect the upper links and shocks. If the male and female driveshaft pieces pulled apart, make sure it gets reconnected as well (before reconnecting the upper links).

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STEP 6. Slide the new servo into the mount, paying close attention to which side the output shaft sits. When working on an SCX10 or Wraith, and when viewed from the front, the output shaft is on the right-hand side. Secure the servo with the four screws that were holding the original servo in place. If the screw holes are stripped out and the screws cannot be fully tightened, you will need to replace the plastic servo mounts.

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STEP 7. The next step is routing the servo lead back to the radio box and receiver. Make sure the wires are not near any moving parts such as articulating suspension components or driveshafts. This is especially true if your Axial model has exposed gears. Small cable ties can be used to keep wires secure and out of harm’s way. Note that Axial includes provisions to secure wires on vehicles such as the SCX10 and SCX10 II. These should definitely be used to secure wiring.

Excessive wire should be neatly stored in the radio box. Do not make the wires too tight or they will get damaged as the suspension articulates. The wires should be slack enough to allow for complete suspension movement.

Once the wiring is complete, you reinstall the radio box lid. Some radio boxes are not fully sealed, but if you are using a sealed box, you should add grease to the area where the wires pass into the box.

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STEP 7. Finally reinstall the servo horn on the centered servo. Refer to STEP 7 above. Your servo swap is complete! You can now power up your radio and vehicle and go out for a drive.

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TIP: Radio Settings
You may need to slightly adjust your steering trim to get the vehicle to track straight with no input. If your transmitter has sub trim, this adjustment is used first.

If your transmitter has end-point adjustments, you should also use these to adjust how far the servo travels in either direction. A servo that turns farther than the steering system will allow can eventually burn out. The best tool to see if your servo is moving too far and straining is your ear. All servos, especially digital models, make an audible whine when pushing against a resistance. Bench test your steering. If you hear a whine at full lock in either direction, adjust the end points until you don’t hear a whine. If your transmitter doesn’t have end point adjustments, it may have dual rates, which also reduces steering throw, but does both sides simultaneously.

Trail Time Never Ends – Installing LED’s For The Daylight Savings Switch


Two times a year something called Daylight Savings Time really messes with me and so many others. Sure there is a good side of some additional sleep in the Fall, but that kick back in Spring is really like a kick in the… let’s skip that. Daylight savings came about as a way to give people more usable working hours as the earth’s axis tilts between seasons which in turn affects daylight time. The practice of DST was also used to conserve power before recent efficient household products came to market.
We’re not here to give you a whole history lesson, we’re here to tell you that this Daylight Savings Time is once again about to encroach upon your trail time and of course we cannot have that! Typically during the Fall Daylight Saving Shift, many lose out on wheel time, the skies darken and that evening run after work, school or other activity gets sidelined. Rigs get shelved and sit begging for use until the next DST shift. Well it’s time to break that cycle!

Axial Night Run Open

Many trail events have incorporated a evening or night trail run. At Axialfest, the night runs are among the most popular trail times and drivers will flood the trails until the sun rises in the mornings. These evening adventurers have their rigs wired for business so light floods their paths making it fun and challenging to hit the trails for nonstop action. So why can’t the rest of us do that? We’re about to break the mold and beat up the guy that made the mold. We’re going to show the glow on the Axial Deadbolt SCX10 using factory Axial option parts. The Deadbolt comes equipped with a 5-bucket light bar that only requires a few option parts to make them illuminate and so it’s a natural fit to turn into the perfect Daylight Savings Time evening trail runner. But, it’s not going to end with a simple light upgrade. We’re going to take it a step further and show you how to really light up the trails.

Axial Night Run 1
Our project vehicle is a brand new Deadbolt SCX10 ready to run kit. The Deadbolt is assembled from the factory with electronics installed and ready for trail runs day or soon to be night runs. As mentioned, it is already equipped with a 5-bucket light bar on the cage that can be easily fitted with the Axial AX24251 Night Visions System. The NVS actually includes a number of the LED light strings that will fit right on the Deadbolt. Installation is easy, let’s get to work.

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The Night Visions System or NVS is a great for customizing any scale RC machine. This set controls the headlights, tail lights, brake lights, and right/left turn signals, as well as some extra auxiliary lighting. The complete details on this set are: HERE

Includes the following LED light strings:
(1) Double LED light string for headlights (White LED)
(1) Double LED light string for brake lights (Red LED)
(2) Double LED light strings for turn signals (Orange LED)
(1) 5 LED light string for auxiliary lights (White LED)

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1.5mm & 2mm Hex Driver
Small Zip-Ties
2-Sided Tape
Soldering iron and solder (possibly)

Axial Night Run 4
The first step to installing the 5-LED light string (included with the NVS) in the Deadbolt light housings is to locate the LED retaining retainers on the back of the light buckets. There you will see a small screw holding the retainer in place. Using your 1.5mm hex driver, remove all five screws and retainers.

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Unpack the LED string and place a retainer onto one of the end LED’s and then slip that prepped light into one of the end light buckets on the rack.

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Time to secure that LED. Using the screw and your 1.5mm hex driver attach the retainers to the light housing with the screw.

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Repeat the process for the remaining lights. We “twisted” the wires as we went along for a neater look.

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The power wire needs to be run inside of the body. Using your reamer, locate an area to make a hole where you can run the wire inside of the body.

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Feed the LED power wire into the body.

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TIP: Use zip-ties to secure the wires to the roll bar for a finished look.

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The NVS controller needs to be connected to the receiver to utalize all of its functions. To access the receiver, use your 2mm hex driver and remove the two receiver box lid screws. Pop the top off the box.

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Locate the Channel 1 and 2 port on the receiver; unplug your servo and ESC. Remember, the servo is Chanel 1 and the ESC is Channel 2.

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Now plug the servo lead into the NVS system in line with the Channel 1 signal lead on the NVS. Repeat for the Channel 2/ ESC lead.

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The NVS works inline with your servo and ESC signals. It interprets the signals and can initiate LED functions that work in sync with your vehicle’s movement. For example, when you turn, the NVS will make the turn signal blink. If you hit the brake on the radio, the brake lights will illuminate on your truck if you choose to install them. We’re keeping it simple here by powering our light bar. To complete the wiring, you’ll need to plug the Channel 1 lead from the NVS into the receiver and then follow suit for Channel 2.

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It’s best to tidy up your wiring. Take a zip-tie or two and neatly bundle the extra wire before tucking it into the receiver box.

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It’s time to find a location for your NVS power controller. We’re going to use a piece of double sided tape to adhere the controller to the top of the receiver box. We’ve used two additional pieces to fill in the indents on top of the box for a larger area for the NVS to stick to. This location will give us easy access to the wiring.

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Once the controller is attached to the box, use some zip-ties to neaten up any hanging wires. Secure the NVS on/off switch using 2-sided tape to an easy access location.

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Locate the power harness to power your NVS system, it is included with the set. You’ll notice it has two Tamiya connectors with a jumper wire. Insert the small white plug into the power port on the NVS. Since the newest model Deadbolt comes with a Star-Plug, it will not work with the Tamiya connectors. Rather than solder Star Plugs to the harness, we’re going to take a neater approach to integrating the connector. We’re going to cut the small gauge power wire leading to the NVS and solder it to the tabs of the Star-Plug.

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After a quick solder task, the NVS power wire looks at home connected to the Star-Plug and much neater without the additional connectors. If you don’t have a soldering iron, you can probably head to the hobby shop where you purchased your machine and they can solder it for you. Some shops might charge a service fee for soldering. Or you can head out and purchase your own soldering supplies, they certainly come in handy for this hobby.

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This is probably a great time just to check to make certain the components power up. We’re going to use the Auxiliary ports for our rack lights and front bumper/fog lights. Here we’ve plugged the fog lights into one of the upper Auxiliary ports. First turn on your radio and then plug in your battery to the ESC to power the Deadbolt. Turn on the NVS switch and wait a few seconds. The NVS has to power up and then it will illuminate the LED’s. We’re Good!

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There is a two LED white light string in the NVS (shown above) and two open light buckets in the Deadbolt bumper. Seems like a match to me, let’s add them too! Remove the bumper to install the LED lights by removing the two bumper retaining screw pins with a 1.5mm hex driver.

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Locate the rest of the parts you’ll need. That means going back and finding the additional parts that came with your kit. Here you’ll find the two LED retainers you need. You’ll also need a pack of AX31066 M2x8mm screws to secure the retainers. Then dip back into the NVS box to find that 2-LED string.

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Install the LED light into the bumper in the same manor as you installed the lights in the light buckets. Once both lights are installed, place the bumper back in the cross-brace and reinstall the retaining screw pins. Plug the LED wire connector in to any Aux port on the NVS.

Axial NVS Plugs
We’re almost done! Place a fully charged battery into your Deadbolt, turn on your radio and then plug your battery in. Now connect the extension wire from the 5-light string into the controller Aux port. You should have working lights! Place the body on the truck, insert your four body pins… And go explore the trails at night!

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Now your ready to go make some cool images! See our blog post:
Night Photography Tips by Ian Coble


New To RC – Deadbolt Box To Backyard Guide


Starting your RC adventure is easy with any Axial ready to run kit. Here we’re going to show you just how easy it is. In only the time it takes to charge your battery, we’ll show you how to get an SCX10 Deadbolt from the box to the backyard.

Axial Deadbolt 01
You’ve selected the SCX10 Deadbolt! What drew you in? The bright green body, the poise of the driver figure or perhaps it was the light bar on the roof? Whatever the reason, this radio control machine is based on one of the most popular chassis’ in radio control and it will deliver nonstop adventures wherever you take it.

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Before you tear into that box… well, you probably did already and we don’t blame you. But the first step in getting your adventure under-way should actually be directed towards your battery. During your purchase, you’ve selected a battery and charger for your Deadbolt. Now is a great time to read through your specific charger manual, setup and charge your new battery. It’s going to take some time to charge, so get the process going while you get into your Deadbolt kit.

Axial Deadbolt 02
Now you can dive into the box and depending on which end you open first, you’ll most likely be greeted with some of the kit contents. Here is the included Tactic TTX300 radio in a protective bubble pack, the radio and kit manual, and a bag of parts. We’ll get into the parts bag later.

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Next you can slide the Deadbolt out of the box. Get excited!

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Like many boxed items, you’ll need a pair of strong scissors or cutters to cut the zip-ties holding the Deadbolt to the inner box.

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There it is, your new Deadbolt nearly ready for action, the rig comes assembled, body painted and electronics installed. There are only a few steps to get it ready for action.

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Wait! We know you want to dive in, but take a few moments to read through the included manuals. The Axial team spends a lot of time on the manual to explain everything you need to know about your new model.

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Batteries! Here we go, its time to install some fresh AA batteries in the Tactic TTX300 radio. The radio only requires 4 cells. To access the battery tray, slide the cover off the bottom of the radio. Next make certain you note how the cells are inserted. There will be a diagram in the battery tray that indicates how the batteries are installed.

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Time to remove the body in order to install the battery to power your Deadbolt. There will be two body retaining clips in the front and two in the rear. Simply slide them out and set them aside.

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Once the body is removed, you’ll notice a tag with some information. Yes, you should read it too. This is a quick start tag that gives you information on how the electronic speed control is set and how to turn your truck on and off.

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This is a good time to familiarize yourself with the SCX10. Your manual has a diagram of the trucks major components. It is a good idea to look at the diagram and the rig to get to know all of the parts.

Axial Deadbolt 14 x
Each Axial kit comes with the electronic speed control set to LiPo mode for use with Lithium Polymer batteries. This is done as a safety measure so the battery does not go below a certain voltage that can damage the battery. If you chose to use a NiMh battery, it will work in LiPo mode, but not as efficiently as if it were in NiMh mode. Switching your ESC between modes isn very easy by simply moving the “jumper” to the mode that corresponds with your battery.

Axial Deadbolt 12

Axial Deadbolt 13
Once you’ve adjusted the jumper on the ESC if necessary, you can install your fully charged battery. Loosen the Velcro® straps on the battery plate and slide the battery in. Then pull the straps tight to secure the battery and firmly press the Velcro® together.

Axial Deadbolt 18
We’re getting close to running! Turn your attention to the radio and locate the On/Off switch on the back of the radio. Switch the radio “On” and make certain the power LED indicator is illuminated on the top of the radio.
TIP: Your radio should always be turned on first and off last to insure you always have control of your RC vehicle.

Axial Deadbolt 15
Now the Deadbolt is ready to be powered on. This is done by connecting the battery to the ESC. This is your On/Off switch. Use the plug connection to turn it on and unplug the battery to turn the model off.
TIP: Two wire guides are located on the chassis frame rail. These clips can be used to secure wires.

Axial Deadbolt 19
Almost ready to run; place the body back on the chassis and install the four body clips back on the posts to secure the body. Now you’re ready to head outside for your adventure!

Axial Deadbolt 24
If you’re completely New To RC, take some time to familiarize yourself with the radio functions and how the Deadbolt responds. Start with the steering, turn the wheel in both directions. Note when standing behind the vehicle, steering left will turn the truck left, but when the vehicle is coming at you, this will be reversed. Don’t worry, you’ll get used to it quickly. Now find an open space and try the throttle. The throttle is proportional, so just pull the trigger slightly so the truck rolls forward. While at a slow speed, make large right turn ovals. After a few right turn ovals, make a few left turn ovals. After your comfortable with ovals. Try figure 8’s. During this practice session, try various speeds and various amounts of steering to get used to your model. The ESC is equipped with reverse too, try it a few times before heading to the nearest pile of rocks or hiking trail.

Axial Deadbolt 23
Once you are used to how your model operates, you can start your off-road adventures!

Axial Deadbolt 22
Whoa! What about all of those spare parts? You didn’t think we forgot about them did you? The bag of parts you find in the kit are the extras from the part trees used to build your specific kit. These are parts that are used in other variations of Axial kits. These parts can come in handy, so keep them on hand in case you start customizing your rig. You’ll also notice some additional driver heads, these can be glued together with model glue and painted to give your Deadbolt a unique look. You’ll also receive two green gate markers you can place on trail obstacles to make your challenge a bit more intense. And finally there will be a T-wrench used to remove various nuts on the chassis as well as the wheel nuts.