Axial Yeti XL Pre-run Checklist – Read Before You Run

blog_yetixlprerun

So you just picked up your Yeti XL and are ready to go bashing! Take a few moments to check out some recommendations to make sure you have the best experience possible.

Pre-run checklist:

Check the screw tightness, especially around the front bulkhead

YetiXL Pre-Run Blog

YetiXL Pre-Run Blog

Wheel nuts – We recommend using a ratchet with an 8mm socket to install and remove the wheel nuts; this is easier on the hands than the included wrench.

YetiXL Pre-Run Blog

Battery install – Your Yeti XL comes with foam spacers for using two 2S batteries or two 3S batteries. You can run your batteries with their leads exiting the front of the tray or the rear of the tray

If using standard hard case 2S batteries, use the long skinny foams on top or bottom, and the block foam in front or back. We prefer rear battery lead exit and rear battery placement with the foam on top to keep the weight as low and back as far as possible.

YetiXL Pre-Run Blog

YetiXL Pre-Run Blog

If using standard 3S batteries, store the long skinny foams and just use the block foam to keep the battery from moving front to rear tugging on the leads.

YetiXL Pre-Run Blog

Trimming the tabs slightly that hold the battery doors closed may help with large batteries. Using a small x-acto knife, you can cut a small amount of plastic out to make sliding the pins in on the battery doors much easier.

YetiXL Pre-Run Blog

YetiXL Pre-Run Blog

When unleashing the massive amount of power this rig has to offer, it is possible to rip the tires from the wheels, especially if they did not get fully glued from the factory. It is highly recommended to make sure the tires are fully glued before running. Using your fingers, tug on the tires all the way around all the wheels and make sure they are fully attached.

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Check screw shafts on transmission outputs

YetiXL Pre-Run Blog

Check wiring for proper routing (should be away from any moving parts) and for any loose connections.

YetiXL Pre-Run Blog

Before using your new rig, buy the wife/GF something nice because you won’t be spending much time with her once you unleash the Yeti XL. (This last one is probably the most important). Clicking here is a good start.

If for some reason you disregarded that last piece of advice, or happened to read this blog after the fact, you may be forced to buy one of these…..

bling

If you are a girl and purchased the Yeti XL, reverse this process as us guys are cheap and expect cubic zirconium’s laid in titanium bands.

Please make sure to check back regularly for the latest information and tips! As always thank you for your support!

EXO Terra Buggy Build Tips: Motor Mount

The Axial EXO Terra buggy includes a very unique motor mount.  The adjustable mesh screw and the dovetail groove are both unique designs for ease of adjustment and maximum holding strength with minimal effort.

Lets go over the basic installation and assembly of the motor mount.

Step 1: With the motor mounted onto the slide use this screw to adjust your mesh.  You can slowly adjust the mesh as you tighten or loosen this screw, once set you will be able to remove the slide with the motor attached and install it again into the same exact position. Use a 2.5mm allen driver for this adjustment screw.

Step 2: Once the mesh is set install the M4 set screw in the top of the motor mount.  Do not tighten this screw all the way down yet.  Use a 2.0mm allen driver here.

Step 3: Continue tightening this set screw, you will feel the screw stop once it hits the motor mount slide shown by the green arrow on the step 3 image above.

Step 4: Once the screw has touched the motor mount slide you only need to turn it another 1/4 turn.  Or 90*.  This will snug up quickly and lock the motor slide into place.  Over tightening this set screw will cause damage to the motor mount or the motor mount slide.  1/4 turn is all you need here.

DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE M4 SETSCREW!  YOU WILL DAMAGE THE MOTOR MOUNT.

Here is an image from Step 22 in the EXO Kit manual.  You will see the slide attached to the motor, and the motor mount attached to the chassis.

**Worried that the extra 1/4 turn past snug isn’t enough?  Here is why it works.

The Motor Mount has a male dovetail, while the motor slide that the motor mount attaches to has a female dovetail.  When the M4 setscrew is tightened you are not only applying pressure to the point of the set screw, but also to the entire surface of that dovetail.  This increased surface area means you have that much more material holding the motor slide into place. Trust the surface area! Over tightening the set screw will actually decrease this surface area and potentially break the mount. AGAIN, DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN!

Here is an image of the added surfaces from the dovetail.  This is holding the motor mount slide into place.  Keep in mind these surfaces are on the front and back.

Frequently Asked Customer Service Questions

I decided to sit down with our customer service reps recently to see what kind of questions they get asked the most on a week to week basis. Some of the questions they get asked I expected, and some I didn’t. So, I decided to highlight the most popular questions here on the blog, with answers. Hopefully, this will help newcomers find solutions for their issues even faster.

Electronic FAQs:
Q: Can I program or bind my AE-1 ESC (Speed control)?
A: No programming or binding is necessary on the AE-1 ESC.

Q: Can I purchase the AS-2 Servo?
A: We do not sell the AS-2 servo separately. We recommend getting a servo with at least the same torque specs which is 120oz at 6 volts.

Q: I am using the new 2.4 radio system (AX-2) and I have no forward or reverse.
A: Rebind radio system.

Q: How many cells or volts can the AE-1 ESC handle?
A: 6 cell (7.2 volt) , 7cell (8.4 volts) or a 2s Lipo (7.4 volts) Please note AE-1 ESC does not have a Lipo cutoff. AE-1 ESC requires a low voltage cutoff if using lipo batteries.

Q: How many cells or volts can the AE-2 ESC handle?
A: 6 cell (7.2 volt) or a 2s Lipo (7.4 volts). AE-2 ESC comes stock with lipo cutoff.

Nitro Engine FAQs:
Q: What is the stock needle settings on my Axial Racing engine?
A: The Low and Mid range needles stock settings are flush. The high speed needle should be set even with the grove on the high speed assembly or 3 ½ – 4 turns from closed. All Axial Racing engines are preset from the factory for break in. We recommend using Axial Racing fuel filters (Part # AX0504, AX0501 or AX0502).

Service and Repairs:
Q: If I have a problem with Axial Racing products who should I contact?
A: For Service on your Axial Racing Product contact our customer service department.

Q: What temperature should I be running my engine at?
A: No Higher than 275°

XR10 FAQs
Q: What size battery can I fit in my XR10? Can you recommend a battery?
A: The max battery size you can use is 30mmx25mmx90mm give or take a few mm. I would recommend any 2-3S 25c or more and up to 1800mah. Please see the links or part numbers below of a few batteries our team drivers use.

MaxAmps 1800mah 3S Lipo
http://www.maxamps.com/Lipo-1800-111-Pack.htm

MaxAmps 1300mah 3S Lipo
http://www.maxamps.com/proddetail.php?prod=Lipo-1300-111-Pack&cat=260

MaxAmps 860mah 3S Lipo
http://www.maxamps.com/Lipo-860-111-Pack.htm

Other packs that are compatible
TP1250-3SP45 1250mAh 3-Cell/3S 11.1V 6C 45C 90C 7.5A 56A 112A 115 18 x 31 x 92
TP1750-3SP45 1750mAh 3-Cell/3S 11.1V 6C 45C 90C 10.5A 78A 157A 153 25 x 31 x 92
Common Sense Lectron Pro 11.1 volt – 1150mAh 25C Li-Poly Pack #3S1150-25-L

Q: What is the best set up for my XR10 Chassis?
A: This is a tricky question. The ideal setup really depends on the type of terrain you drive on. Large smooth rock surfaces with gradual transitions usually lead to a course having lots of steep climbs and side-hilling. On this type of terrain it’s ideal to run a lower center clearance to keep the XR10 as stable as possible by getting the weight of the chassis lower. The opposite would be terrain with lots of abrupt transitions and undercut climbs, this would require a higher center clearance to allow for the chassis to easily “break-over” these obstacles without getting hung up or thrown off your line.
A: Please see the link below of some of our team driver set ups. You can always follow our blog for the latest tips and news.
http://axialracing.com/wordpress/2010/11/17/brandon-brad-and-scotts-xr10-set-up-sheets/

AX10 FAQs
Q: Can I convert my ax10 into a SCX10?
A: Yes. Refer to the link below on Axial’s Blog for more information on this conversion.
http://axialracing.com/wordpress/2009/05/12/convert-your-ax10-to-an-scx10/