Axial’s AX90058 SCX10 II 1969 Chevrolet Blazer is certainly one good-looking ride, but the addition of the AXI31555 Hard Top is sure to catch the attention of many Blazer fans. In this article, we show you a step-by-step procedure on how to mount this cap. But, before we do, let’s go over some of the tools you’ll need to get the job done.
Before we build, let’s look at what comes in the AXI31555 Blazer Hard Top package. There’s the polycarbonate plastic shell, instruction sheet, window masks, sticker sheet and hardware bags. Easy enough, right?
A closer look at the instruction sheet. It also documents the opening rear window, a cool feature but more needed to get to the body clips!
Window masks. I peeled off the excess to make it easier to see the actual window parts. Note the top and bottom are for the side windows, the center is for the rear window.
Before you stick the window masks on, make sure you wash the Hard Top with soap and water. Dry it completely – you may even want to let it sit out for a little bit to air dry, just to be sure. Peel off the masks and stick them on. They don’t have to be perfect as we’ve included external decals, but you want to get them as close as possible.
Paint whatever color you want; I did black since I figured it would match the Blazer body well.
After the Hard Top is done drying, cut it out, remove the window masks and the overspray film. Now, as an added detail, sprayed the outside of the Hard Top with a matte clear coat to soften up the shine. If you want to replicate this, DO NOT remove the overspray film. First, use a sharp blade (Xacto brand, Olfa, etc) and cut out around the windows, then remove the overspray film. If you don’t cut out the windows, you’ll clear coat them as well and you won’t be able to see through them.
Using the hardware enclosed, attach the mounts to the Hard Top. Note that there are two different designs of mounts; you don’t want to mix these up when you install them. Read the instructions carefully.
Assemble the swiveling tailgate mount…
…and attach it to the tailgate. You’ll need to notch the tailgate first; there are scribe marks to show you where to cut.
Attach the tailgate assembly to the Hard Top.
The tailgate should swing freely. If not, you may need to trim the notches until it does.
Here’s a quick inside look at the tailgate mounted to the Hard Top. You can also, at this time, attach the tailgate lift handle.
Ream 4 small holes into the Blazer body; there are already dimples in place. Note that you only need to ream the front- and rear-most holes as shown.
Set the Hard Top in place and attach with the supplied hardware. Set your completed Blazer down, step back and revel in your masterpiece!
The Trail Honcho has been a long time favorite for RC off-road enthusiasts. It has an all business look with the large plate shielded front bumper, its recognizable cab and it’s tough cage rear section. When the SCX10 II Trail Honcho was announced, drivers enthusiasm again surged for this iconic machine in the scale crawling world. But this writer still felt it needed a little something else. You see, inside of that cool extended cab is, well, empty. You look into the windows and you see wires, a motor and a transmission case. Now the new transmission case does have a cool new scale look to it, however, it’s not something you’d expect to see if you looked into a cab of a scale truck. There should be an interior right? Agreed! So I started sifting through possible options for an interior. Drivers who run the SCX10 II 2017 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited CRC use the 2012 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon Body as an interior. But there isn’t anything that is a true close fit such as that example. First I took a Deadbolt Body and held it up to the Honcho. This seemed like an ok option and then out of the corner of my eye was a 1/10 Yeti RTR interior. This interior seemed to fill the space in the Honcho cab a bit better. Interior found! In this Tech how to, we’ll show you just how easy it is to adapt the Yeti interior into the Trail Honcho for a better scale appearance.
Y-380 1/10th Scale Interior – AX31141
Helmet Set (Black) – AX31049
Reamer or Drill with bits
In this how to, we’re using an Interior from a 1/10 Yeti Ready To Run which comes painted. If you’ve purchased the Yeti interior as a stand alone part, you’ll need to paint it yourself. Take the time to wash the lexan with soap and water before painting it. Paint in a well ventilated area and take your time and paint the body and or helmets to meet your custom scale needs.
We want to secure the interior to the Honcho with screws so we need to decide where those screws should be located. To hide the screws as best as possible, we’re going to locate the mounting points in the hood vent area. Using the marker, place a dot where you will drill the holes.
Using your reamer or a drill bit, drill a hole on each side of the body in the vent decal area where your mounting points will be. The holes should be slightly larger in diameter to the hardware you’ve selected to use.
To help position the interior we’ve placed two small pieces of two sided tape on each side of the body to secure the interior. This will allow us to move and tweak its position before we use screws to mount it permanently.
Once the interior is in position, press it down firmly to secure it to the two-sided tape on the body.
Now that the interior is in place, you can use your reamer or drill bit to open a hole in the interior, using the hole you previously made in the hood as a guide.
With holes in the body and interior, you can secure the two together using the hardware of your choice. We found some small 1.6mm screws and nuts in our spares bin. Using smaller hardware looks a bit more scale.
We’re not going to go through all the motions again to tell you how to make a hole, so we’ll give you the basic rundown on how to secure the rear. We chose to drill a hole through the “Keyhole” on the Honcho’s door handles as the spot to locate the hardware that will secure the interior in the rear. We then ran a long drill bit into the interior and drilled a pilot hole. With some long screws we found in our hardware bin and some plastic nuts and shoulder spacers we found in our Axial spares bag, we secured the back half of the interior on each side.
A few Axial option parts, a little paint and just a few minutes with some basic hobby tools and hardware you probably have lying around, you now have an interior for your Honcho that fills the cab space and hides all of the inner workings of the SCX10.
If you’ve spent any time at all on Youtube perusing the endless uploads of radio control videos, you’ve most likely stumbled upon a video or two or more from the Hemistorm RC channel. The man behind Hemistorm, Chris De Graaf is truly passionate about the radio control hobby. His channel has skyrocketed in popularity thanks to his unique model builds, enthusiasm, awesome action clips and unfiltered commentary. Hemistorm is always on point with his RC reviews and took a bit of a different direction when the AX90060 SCX10 II™ 2017 Jeep® Wrangler Unlimited CRC landed on his workbench. First he did the somewhat standard overview approach video, but what he did in his next video, not many saw coming. He started customizing the rig to suit his style before it even touched dirt! Photos and video were posted online and many Axial fans went wild over the customization. Best part was, the modifications cost less than $50. This shows that with a little creativity, you can bring your Axial model to the next level in style without breaking the bank. We caught up with Hemistorm and convinced him to send some detail photos of the build while it was in progress. Check out how easy it is to customize your machine and we hope it inspires you to start a custom project of your own.
So how did Hemistorm create his custom rig? Most of the custom work was done with just one tool; a hobby knife. Hemistorm, carefully planned out the customization, trying to take into account how a real roof looks on a JK and used a marker to trace out his cut lines.
After he was confident of the areas to cut, he simply scored the body with the hobby knife multiple times and “snapped” the Lexan pieces apart. A section of the roof and rear glass sections were completely removed.
Next it was time to test fit the rear cap in its new location. A few tweaks needed to be made for a better fit. A narrow triangle of lexan was removed from the rear cap for a better fit.
Once the cap was set into place, Hemistorm turned his attention to filling in the rear section with a spare tire and a deck. To fill in the space, he used the rear section of a Pro-Line Cherokee interior set.
After the deck was set, something was still missing. Hemistorm then did what many do, see what you have on hand to give your machine a custom look. He grabbed the cage from his Axial Dingo and cut a section off to act as a rear cage. A little bit of drilling, custom mounting and the end result is a cool custom look.
Finally when the custom fitting was complete, Hemi moved onto the finishing work, adding vents to the hood, painting the roof, painting graphics on the sides, painting the deck and adding some scale accessories. The end result is a unique AX90060 rig that will turn heads on the trails.
Get all the details on this build from Hemistorm as he goes through the process of creating his custom Jeep Wrangler Unlimited CRC Edition SCX10 II.
The Ultra4 Racing team of Desert Turtle Racing has a few Axial fans in their group. Myself, for one, just happens to be lucky enough to work for Axial. After attending AxialFest 2016 and competing in the Altra Ultra5k with a bone stock RR10 RTR, I was eager to build up my own RR10 in preparation for my next Altra Ultra5k. With a little downtime from working on the full-scale rig I was able to put together a DTR themed RR10 Bomber Chassis. The RR10 Kit has some awesome features and makes for a great starting platform. I opted to add some pretty cool option parts and electronics to give it a little extra kick.
In Ultra4 Racing, one of the must-have items is a 2-speed T-Case, giving this rig a little more realism. I added the Axial 2-Speed Transmission components to give the rig some great low-speed gearing and some “haul the mail” top end – all shiftable with the Tactic TTX300.
I added a few final touches to try and give it a bit more scale looks; ammo cans, painted fuel cell, fuel filler hose and some key interior stickers.
Starting with a stock Axial Deadbolt RTR straight out of the box, before ever putting power to it. I am going to try and make this different than any other! I have heard it both ways as far as this body goes. This is actually one of my favorites.
I really like the hood scoop, dovetail, and I truly love this green! It’s a perfect platform to start with in my opinion.
Now that you have seen what I am starting with, let me show you my idea. I happen to have an Axial Ridgecrest, I have always liked the bumpers and tubing. I want to try and put these bumpers on the Axial Deadbolt.
I have always been a fan of reusing parts, or just using them in ways they might not have been specifically designed for. So lets just see where this takes us. If you do not have a Ridgecrest the part number is AX80117, but I will also try to have a hyperlink at the end of this blog! Just in case you want to do this.
The rear seems to fit like it was made for this body. The front is wide enough at the open end, but it tapers a bit more at the front. I still don’t think this will be an issue.
After removing the Poison Spyder front bumper, I am looking really hard at the front grill.
I have a plastic grill from another truck I never used, it is a very simple grill. I want to try and incorporate it into this build. I think it will help in this makeover.
I drilled the center posts of grill and I reamed the holes to the appropriate size. Also marking the headlights with a sharpie.
I used a body reamer and scissors to start. I also trimmed away the outer corners of factory stickers. Next I used a dremel to round out the headlights.
The goal is to fit some headlight in the grill. so I keep test fitting the hole until I like the fit of light. Once I have the holes big enough on both sides, I turn my attention to the back.
After simply holding the rear bumper where I want it to fit, I mark it with a sharpie and drill the mounting holes.
After drilling the holes, it bolts right up! No modifications at all. Be sure to slide the end tab to the inside of the body. After the rear is done I am returning to work on the front. I painted the new grill black, used solid black stickers for outer corners and Axial Dingo stickers for the marker lights. I ran two screws through the back side of the grill and that’s what holds it in place.
After the grill I simply hold the front bumper to front and cut as straight as I can to the outer edge of grill. After test fitting again the Axial Ridgcrest bumper is still a bit to narrow. Using a dremel I slowly start cutting closer to the grill. You can see picture below for reference.
After several test fits and finally getting the fit I wanted, I bolted on the front bumper. Just a tip, if you look in the picture below, you can see the posts used to mount tube bumper to the front of the Ridgcrest stick directly into the headlight holes.
From the side profile maybe you can see why I said I tried to cut as straight as possible. Pictured below you can see I removed the bumper and cut mounting posts off I was talking about earlier.
So I did run into one issue. Nothing with the bumper, but rather with the headlights. I ran out of Axial light buckets, I had planned on using and measured for. I am sure if you build you have had to improvise. I happen to have some glass lights for home interior, they are designed to go under your cabinets as custom lighting. So off comes the front bumper once again, you can just take out corner screws and it makes it easier.
Well they look good to me, so after some shoe goo, I put the front of the bumper back on. I am very pleased with how this makeover is turning out.
With the bumper back on I add my last to Axial Light buckets. They are Part AX80045, there will be a link to part at the end of this blog. After this I am going to add a little to the stock Axial Maxxis Trepadors.
A couple of Sharpies I purchased should do the trick. I am putting white down first.
Putting the white down first really helped the yellow to pop and stand out. I am very happy with the look. If you have never done this before, I will just tell you now. It is not permanent. You WILL have to touch it up and or redo it! How often just depend on your driving style. I like the look, so I do it. Next some silver model paint and a red sharpie are used to create scale hubs. Your RTR should have these hubs on it, solid black in color. I think it is an easy scale look.
Going back to the body, up top you can see exactly how it looks out of the box. So with an exacto knife I carefully lift the stock sticker and relocate it to the back. For this exact look you must swap stickers from driver to passenger side to follow contours of the fender. I also used a black sharpie on the door and hood jams. Here is a tip, rubbing alcohol or nail polish remover with acetone will take the sharpie completely off should you mess up the lines.
As I mentioned before, I like using parts from other cars. Can you guess what part this is by the outline?
First using a body reamer and then getting as close as I can with lexan body scissors. I use the dremel again test fitting until I like the fit.
Once the Axial Yeti Rock Racer exhaust fits (found on part tree Part AX31116), I decide to dress it up a bit with some silver model paint. Once it dries I hold it in place with shoe goo!
Once installed I am really happy with the over all look. I feel it has completely changed the look. I throw on one of my scale antennas just for a touch more of scale detail.
I am not to worried about interior, but just to make it different I will do another easy trick. Take some 1/4″ open loom conduit, cut one side to the contour of Axial driver helmet. Use a body reamer where ever you want to run hose in the car, only ream hole big enough to hold the hose snug. I painted the drivers helmet, you can do as you want. Shoe goo the hose to the helmet, and once it is dry. Feed hose into the hole you made with body reamer! That’s it, you now have scale fresh air hose on your driver. A tip for you, take the drivers helmet off the vehicle to glue on hose and let it set. There is a screw underneath helmet that is simple to remove.
Moving onto the chassis, this is the only mod this will get at this point. Open the clear plastic bad that came in your RTR and remove the three long post with bevel on one side. Remove the battery tray from the rear of chassis.
Place the posts as pictured above, you will need to remove two small screws from receiver box before fitting beveled edges. Next place battery basket over posts.
Axial Screws AXA471 work perfectly for this relocation. Tighten it down with three of these screws and reuse the small screw to attach battery tray on rear section.
You have just relocated the battery for forward weight and performance. Yes you can definitely spend money on a battery tray to move the battery from the rear to the front. In my opinion this is the most inexpensive way to go, the parts are provided, minus the longer screws! Something to think about. So what’s next?
Well I installed the lens inserts and lens covers on the Axial light buckets on the bumper.
Take step back and look at the transformation. Now the hubs are on after being painted, the driver helmet is also installed. Ummm next I would say take it outside and take it for a drive! That was my plan anyway!
The repositioned battery tray is a huge gain for climbs, and I love how the wheels and details pop when its outside.
Well this is my attempt at simply changing the look and one performance gain with the battery relocation. Hopefully this has inspired you to try new things or build one like this. This crawler is the most bang for the buck in my opinion. If you are looking to get into scale crawling, I would suggest looking at the http://www.axialracing.com/products/ax90044 !
Axial Parts Used:
AX80117 Axial Ridgecrest bumpers