We received the first few RTC kits here at the Axial warehouse a couple days ago. I snatched one up as soon as they hit the floor out back. I drove it for a couple packs in bone stock form, and it works very well. But, I decided to make a few basic mods to see how capable I can make it, while keeping the money spent down to a bare minimum.
First up…………a few pics of the new box. Our marketing department even included a list with all our hop-up parts on the bottom.
Here’s a couple pics of the RTC straight out of the box.
Here’s a few tips on converting Axial’s new RTC rig into the most capable crawler possible on a tight budget. Some of the best mods can be done for little to no money. First off you’ll want to drill a couple breather holes in each wheel at 180* from each other. This will let the tires wrap around obstacles better. I used a body reamer to poke the holes in the wheels. Open them up so they measure about an 1/8″ in diameter. I drill the holes as close as possible to the inner bead seats. Because I’m also going to add a little weight to each wheel for better traction and stability. And I don’t want the weights to block the breather holes.
Now you’ll want to remove the tires from the wheels to add weight. I use standard 1:1 wheel weights for balancing real car tires. These can usually be found at your local tire shop. I’m going to add about 7 1/2 ounces to each front wheel, and about 4 1/2 ounces to each rear wheel. This will help the suspension cycle better as well as keep weight down low for a better center of gravity. The lower you can keep the bulk of your rigs weight, the better off you’ll be on steep climbs, descents and off camber situations. Again, just make sure you don’t block the breather holes you drilled in the previous step with the wheel weights.
Next, I installed the included clear lexan upper link plate on the front links. This will be where I place my 2 cell 1100mah MaxAmps lipo battery. For those that aren’t ready for lipos a standard flat 6 cell 2/3A battery pack should fit as well. I also switched out the stock Tamiya battery connector for a male Deans plug to match my battery.
Another option for mounting batteries is taking the stock standard 6 cell stick pack hook and loop straps that come with the kit and mount them on the front axle for 2/3A split packs which will lower your center of gravity even more. Just poke a couple holes with a punch through the straps, and run some short M3 screws through the holes into the axle housing.
Next thing I want to do is called siping the tires. The Pro-Line Hammer tires work good in stock form. But, cutting a little tread out of them will help the rig stay planted in off-camber situations. You can do this a few ways. One is using a couple cut-off wheels stacked back to back on a Dremel, but that gets very messy in a hurry. I personally prefer to use nice sharp wire cutters to cut sections of lug out of each tread block.
Here you can see I cut about an 1/8″ out of the solid lateral lugs on the right, compared to the stock lugs on the left. Now, I will go ahead and notch all the solid lugs on all 4 tires to match.
That’s pretty much it for now. I’m going to try and get a video shot/edited with these few modifications done asap. I’ll get it posted here as soon as it’s finished. These few mods should really take this RTC to the next level as far as performance goes, without breaking the bank.