Budget RTC Build Update

Well, I’ve got 2 weeks of run time on this budget RTC build now. So far I am very happy with how it’s performing, with little to no extra money out of pocket. Here’s a few pictures of it in action, as well as a video to show it’s abilities.

Pictures:
rtc-0011

rtc-0041

rtc-0051

rtc-0081

rtc-0131

rtc-0141

Video:

“Bottom” by Tool

38 thoughts on “Budget RTC Build Update

  1. Bender,
    I’ve been a faithful customer and silent understudy of yours since meeting you at Bunny Bash 2008. I was with the Casper, WY group that came down and got out clocks cleaned! It was great, an awesome weekend. Is there any plan to introduce an AX18? My son is really getting into mini’s (RC18R, B and T) and wants a mini crawler. If Axial has plans for one I’ll wait otherwise it’ll be an MRC.

    Thank you for your time,

    John

    • Hi John,
      I do remember meeting you at Finish Line R/C. That was a fun comp for sure. We’ve talked about doing and mini crawler here at Axial, but it’s probably quite a ways out if we do decide to make one.

      Thanks,
      Bender

  2. Hello,
    I’m gathering money from some time to get the ARTR version…looks a good deal to me with all the hop-ups included…but now, you release the ARC version, with some more goodies inside, new shock, better electronics than RTR version, some elements from ARTR too, so I’m totally confused now…I’m rookie, even if I’m old enough…don’t need the radio system, have already an 55t motor from Axial, thinking of a novak rooster crawler for use with lipo, but don’t know what to do now…will those new shocks be available (replace the old models) in all your kits soon? I still think the ARTR is better equipped for crawl…help me please with some of your thoughts…
    Thanks and sorry for taken your time with mine undecision…

    • I would still go with the new RTC version, even if you already have a radio, motor and ESC. You can run the stock electronics in something else, if need be. The RTC is the most capable crawler from Axial yet. The new shocks and lower ride height make a huge difference in how it performs.

      • Does the ESC have a drag brake or just a standard one? Will it go immediatley into reverse or do you trigger it twice? Also what brand of radio does it come with?

        • The ESC doesn’t have drag brake built into it. It’s just an entry level ESC. It has double pump reverse, but we reversed the wires to the motor and ESC so it has instant reverse. The radio is just a basic AM radio with our name on it.

    • I’m not sure of any website that offers the wheel weights. But, you can usually buy them at your local tires shop.

  3. How durable are the steering and suspension links? Should they be replaced right away for competitive Crawling?

    • So far the stock plastic lower links and steering links are holding up fine for me. For competition it would be nice to have aluminum steering links for more precise control.

  4. There’s a tip you did but skipped mentioning that anyone with the AX10 RTC will quickly learn. The body needs to be trimmed by the wheel wells or the wheels hit. Another aspect that should have just been part of the initial out of box design.

  5. I am new to this sport and I see alot of vids on you tube where the vechicles are driving in deep water some 90 percent submerged, what parts and how do you water proof your rigs for water driving?
    Thanks,
    Keith

    • Most guys wrap their electronics in balloons or zip-lock bags to keep them dry. Then they’ll use grease around the wires to keep water out. And there is still no guarantee that everything will stay dry.

  6. How much weight are you running on your wheels? how much do you think that 55 turn motor can handle before its just too heavy to turn the wheels?

    • I added about 7 ounces to each front wheel and about 4 to each rear wheel. I wouldn’t go much more then that for weight. It’ll probably cause parts to start breaking on roll overs if you do. Once you add the weight you may have to adjust the shock oils and springs to a slightly heavier set-up too.

  7. Bender, I have a couple of questions for ya. I just got the RTC. I’m waiting on a Spektrum DX3S. I put the weights in the wheels, drilled the 2 vent holes in each wheel, changed the front links for the steering to the Axial alum parts, changed the steering servo to a hi-tech mg645 with an alum servo arm. my first question is, when I turn to the right, I have full turn, but when I turn to the left it does not turn as much. It seems as if the shorter upper steering rod raise up and will not turn to full left. I’m currently using a Futaba 3pm FM radio with steering set evenly right/left at full. what could cause this. servo arm too short? this servo is better than the stock, isn’t it? It’s brand new by the way. second question, I ordered a set of AX30445 30 deg bent links, but the hobby shop ordered AX30465 instead. these are the square 30 deg links with the holes in them. they seem to get hung up on the chassis. what can I do to use these? should I just re-order the round 30 deg links? any help would be appreciated.
    Rob

    • It sounds like the shorter steering tie rod may be limiting your turning radius a little to one side. You are right that the shorter link will change in angle quite a bit as the steering servo goes through the motion to steer. A longer tie rod going to the opposite knuckle will probably give you a little more even throw to both sides. If I remember right the 70mm standoffs we offer work good for a longer drag link on your steering set-up.

      If the machined HC links are hitting the chassis the round ones will probably clear a lot better.

  8. Bender, I have a complaint!!! Axial AX-10 RTC, Novak GOAT brushless system, Spektrum DX3S, and the cheap set up tips you list (wheel weights,cut foam,drill vent holes in wheels,etc) THIS ROCK CRAWLING STUFF IS TOO ADDICTIVE!!!!!!!! I don’t know how much more the wife will put up with before me and the dog are kicked out?!?!? Maybe you should hire me to be you assistant! YEAH, then it would be work, and I would have to go do RESEARCH. This sounds like a great idea! What do ya say???

  9. Do you have a schematic on how to build the battery back for the front axial on the RTC?

  10. I love my rtc, after having a losi mrc i just had to get a bigger one. I star cut the foam in the front tires, added 8oz or solder to the front wheels (just tight wound the solder on the rim while i was cutting the foam) i have a regular stick pack though. However its mounted under the tray, its butted up to the trans and i still use 1 velcro strap to hold it in place and its never fallen out or anything. Of course the bodys been trimmed a bit too. It currently has the stock radio and set-up minus the esc, its got a traxxas one for now just bc i didnt want to cut connectors on a new truck. I was going to do a scale type truck then you guys came out with the scx10 tr, now its in the mail and should be here monday !

  11. Here is what might be a dumb question but,,,,,, I am tinkering with the idea of putting rear steering on my RTC, anything special I need to get? I have a Futaba 3PM radio in it and can not wrap my mind around how I would control the rear. PLEASE LEARN ME Bender!!!!!! Help!!!!!

    BTY my new battery from Max Amps is GREAT!!!!!!!!!!! Really helps the RTC crawl better. Thanks for all the help!!!!

    • Sorry I didn’t reply to this sooner, I must have over looked it. You should just be able to add our rear steer kit to your RTC, along with another steering servo. I have never installed one myself though. Rear steer isn’t allowed in the 2.2 class, but can be fun to use if you aren’t going to compete. You may also want to add a BEC to your set-up. Running 2 high torque servos can cause glitching if the ESC can’t handle the load.

  12. Hey Bender, great tips. Just got an RTC. What about using wheel weights with the standard 7.2 6cell pack in the stock position? they still improve the performance?

  13. Hay Hay its Bender…..these are great tips hhhhhmmmmm i just have a few q’s my rtc came with a bent shock shaft and i dident know what the problem was until my dad said somthing was wrong with it and i pulled the shock off and sure enough it was bent slitely im a little angry…..but i did replace the shock with a traxxas XXL shock and the axial spring and the traxxas shocks are sooooooo much smoother riding than the axial springs not to diss the brand but just another tip to noobies replace the front shocks with somthing slitely longer it works so much better and also id love to see some water proof kits for the ax10 and some more scale accesorys on mine i have a back pack, sleeping bag, roof rack, shovel small CB radio and a cro bar and other misc. things, gas cans rope ect. all from gi joes lol thanks for all that you do it makes my life so much easyer, crawling for me is a way to let off steam THX 4 YR TIME

    ,Agent ‘Q’

  14. I’m looking to buy the AX10 and wanted to know if it mattered which type of battery used with it right out of the box, lipo or nihm?? And which would be better for a new-comer like myself? And which batteries and charger would you recommend? Thank you for your time?

    • If you are new to RC then I would stick with NiMH. They are more user friendly, and last for quite a while. Check out MaxAmps.com they have a huge selection of batteries and chargers. They also break them down into categories for you, like rock crawling, bashing, etc.

  15. Hello, I was wondering if the behind the axle steering kit makes a big difference in climbing? And wanted to know the difference in climbing between 3 link and 4 link?? and what parts i would need to change to a 4 link system it was better. And which high clearance links would be better, the machined look much better, but they need to function well too.. Thanks for your time.
    Chris

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