AX90046 SCX10 II Jeep Cherokee Kit Build Series – Part 8

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We’re getting very close to finishing the AX90046  build series and by the end of this particular blog, you should be able to drive your truck if you’ve been following this series as you build. Here some of the final electronic and detail peices will be added to the rig. Time to work.

Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 1

STEP 1

Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 2

Let’s get the electronics mounted to the chassis. In the kit you find servo tape to help install your purchased electronics. Before applying the tape, make certain the surfaces are free and clean of dirt and oil. Use motor spray or rubbing alcohol and a paper towel to clean the surfaces. Cut pieces of tape to install the ESC. Make sure you have enough tape left over for the switch and the receiver.

STEP 2

Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 3

Stick you ESC to the side plates. The manual instructs you to place the ESC behind the radio box. We’ve decided to switch it up and place it on the right side plate since we won’t be using the 2-speed conversion in this kit. Stick the receiver into the radio box too.

STEP 3

Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 4

Next route the wires through the rubber radio box end seal. Place the wires in the seal and then slip it into the box. Apply a little grease here if the seal doesn’t slide in. Next place the lid seal into the radio box lid and screw it to the top of the box.

STEP 4

Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 5

Next, a little modeling work. The light lenses need to be placed into the bumpers. Its a good idea to place a small dab of clear modeling cement on the lens pins to help keep them secure in the bumper.

STEP 5

Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 6

Using the screw pins, secure the bumpers to the mount. Here you can also slip the trailer hitch in and secure it. If you think you’re going to tackle some serious approach angles, you might want to leave the trailer hitch off.

Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 7

STEP 6

Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 8

The body posts are placed into the shock towers next and secured with screw pins. Take note of what holes the screw pins go in so your body sits properly on the chassis.

STEP 7

Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 9

The sliders get bolted to the side plates next. Note these are adjustable by sliding them in and out depending on what body you have.

STEP 8

Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 10

Now the tricky part. Glueing up tires! You need to spend the time and do this step properly so your tires don’t come off on the trail. Make sure to use a good CA glue too. We suggest Dynamite Thin CA. Take a look at this blog if you need help with the glueing process HERE

STEP 9

Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 11

After the tires are glued and dry, install your hexes to the axles. It’s a good idea to add a little bit of threadlock to the hex retaining set-screw. Bolt the wheels on with the supplied lock nuts followed by the covers.

FINISHED

Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 12

We didn’t wire up our demo truck, but at this point wire up your speed controller if necessary and give your new rig a test run… you know, because you have to play ASAP! Body painting and finishing is up next. See you in the next blog.

 

AX90046 SCX10 II Jeep Cherokee Kit Build Series – Part 7

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Our AX90046  build series continues and up until now, it’s been assembling sections of the rig, but when we’ve finished, it still looks like a pile of parts. Well, in this blog entry, the build is really going to start to take shape. Here we’re going to assembly the chassis and start bolting on all of those sections from the previous steps. Let’s make this pile of parts look like a rig!

STEP 1
Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 2
First we turn our attention to the battery tray. The Velcro strap needs to slipped into the tray with the fuzzy side facing out. This will allow the hook of the velcro to secure to the loop. While the tray is out, you should install the battery position tabs in the tray. This is often left out, but if all of your packs are the same, its a good idea to use these so your battery doesn’t shift.

STEP 2
Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 3
Next up, install the servo mount and brackets. No real tips here, just make sure you don’t overtighten the screws and strip out any holes.

STEP 3
Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 4
The servo goes in next with the splined output facing forward. Don’t forget to use the sire wire security strap/ tabs which makes wire routing much cleaner.

STEP 4
Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 5
The front tower goes on next. The tower with the panhard bar mount is used here. Pay extra attention to the size of the hardware used.

STEP 5
Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 6
Lots going on in this step. Start by installing the side tray on the chassis, but before doing so, take special note that the servo lead wire is run between the tray and frame rail for a nice clean look. The screws for the tray also secure the transmission to the frame rails. After the tray is in, install the correct rear shock tower and then the cross members. Pay attention to the frame holes the tower is postioned in. This corresonds with the proper wheelbase for this build.

STEP 6
Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 7
Now the opposite side frame rail is installed. Start securing the rail by screwing the shock tower into position.

STEP 7
Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 8
The tray goes into position next. The hardware will secure the tray to the frame and in turn secure the transmission.

STEP 8
Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 9
Time to button up the rest of the chassis assembly by installing the  front tower and front bumper mount screws.

STEP 9
Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 10
The assembly is really getting interesting now! Take your front axle and link assembly and start attaching it to the chassis by inserting the center Wild Boar Driveshaft to the axle output and install the retaining screw-pin. With the driveshaft in place, you can screw the links to the chassis.

STEP 10
Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 11
Next, the shocks are installed onto the shock towers and lower brackets. Make sure you use the front shock assemblies here. Don’t overtighten the shock mounting screws. Overtightening can pinch the plastic ball studs.

STEP 11
Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 12
Here is a tricky part. Installing the servo horn. If you went ahead and screwed the panhard bar to the mount, it might be easier to get the horn onto the servo by removing the panhard link. With it out of the way, install the servo arm on the steering link and secure the horn to the servo. We know you already centered your servo before installing it… right?

STEP 12
Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 13
Just like the front, the rear axle and link assembly gets bolted to the frame. Remember to install the driveshaft first before attaching the links to the chassis.

STEP 13
Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 14
Bolt the rear shocks to the towers and axle brackets.

FINISHED

SCX Chassis

Now it’s starting to look like an SCX10II.

AX90046 SCX10 II Jeep Cherokee Kit Build Series – Part 6

AX90046SCX10II_JeepCherokeeKit_Build_Series_Part6

Assembling the Wild Boar Driveshafts is a fairly simple task and should only take you a few minutes to complete. There are however a few tips we’re going to throw in to make sure the parts work well for those long treks on the trail. Ready, set, build!

TOOLS NEEDED
2mm Hex Driver
Side cutters
Supplied grease and threadlock also required

STEP 1
Axial SCX WB Driveshafts 1
Start by cutting the driveshaft parts from the parts trees. The trees have various size driveshaft parts on them so reference the manual to see exactly which parts you need.

STEP 2
Axial SCX WB Driveshafts 2
Here we start to assemble the driveshafts and it is extremely important to add thread lock to the screws before inserting them into the driveshaft and screwing it into the universal mounting boss.

STEP 3
Axial SCX WB Driveshafts 3
After the end is screwed into the driveshaft, place a small dab of grease on the hex driver and use it to coat the inside of the driveshaft end.

STEP 4
Axial SCX WB Driveshafts 4
With the ends greased, you can slip the universal barrels into the ends.

STEP 5
Axial SCX WB Driveshafts 5
Slip the drive cup over the end and line-up the cross-pin holes. Once the holes are lined up, you can insert the pins.

STEP 6
Axial SCX WB Driveshafts 6
To secure the pins in place, you’ll simply need to slide the plastic sleeve over the cups. Set-screws will hold these in place later.

STEP 7
Axial SCX WB Driveshafts 7
Assemble the rest of the driveshaft by inserting the appropriate slider into the Wild Boar shafts.

STEP 8
Axial SCX WB Driveshafts 8
Now the shafts are attached to the transmission output shafts. Here you’ll use the set-screw pins to secure the drive cups to the output shaft. You may use a dab of threadlock on the set-screws for extra security. Note, if the holes for the drive cup do not line up with the shaft, you may have installed the shaft incorrectly, go back and rebuild the gearcase if necessary.

STEP 9
Axial SCX WB Driveshafts 9
The skidplate is up next for installation. This is simple, secure it to the transmission case with the two provided flathead allen screws.

STEP 10
Axial SCX WB Driveshafts 10
The transmission mounts are installed next. Pay close attention to the direction in which they are installed. Snug the two buttonhead screws that secure the mounts.

FINISHED
Axial SCX WB Driveshafts 11
With several sections of the manual complete, the next steps will really start turning parts into an actual rig. Make sure you check back for the next part of our kit build!

AX90046 SCX10 II Jeep Cherokee Kit Build Series – Part 5

AX90046SCX10II_JeepCherokeeKit_Build_Series_Part5

We’re getting into some fun territory here on our SCX10 Jeep Cherokee Kit Build, moving on to the transmission assembly. The build is fairly straight forward with a few notes that you need to know in order to build this important part of the vehicle properly. You’ll only need a few tools here such as a 2mm hex driver, needle nose pliers and the kit box wrench. Let’s build!

STEP 1
Axial SCX Transmission2
First up is building the gearshafts which is faily simple unless you jumped right into putting parts together and not reading the manual. Note, there are two bearing sizes in the parts bag. The larger bearings are used in this step. Also there are two types of cross pins used to support the gears. You’ll need to use the larger pins here. And finally make sure you use the correct spacer tubes on the shafts shown here. Slide the parts together as shown.

STEP 2
Axial SCX Transmission3
Now we can slip the assembled shafts into the transmission half. Before doing so, coat the gears in grease.

STEP 3
Axial SCX Transmission4
Slip the other half of the transmission case on the shafts and give them a little wiggle to help seat the bearings in the case. Screw the halves together and install the transmission support post.

STEP 4
Axial SCX Transmission5
The transfer case is assembled next. Push the bearings into the case first.

STEP 5
Axial SCX Transmission6
This is somewhat of a tricky step. You’ll want to start by pushing the transfer case half on to the transmission over the output shaft. Then you’ll need to use your pliers to install the small cross-pin that keys to the gear. Once that is done, you can install the rest of the gears, shafts and pins. Then place the outside transmission half on and bolt it together with the supplied hardware.

STEP 6
Axial SCX Transmission7
The motorplate and back half of the gearcover are up next. These are simply pressed together and bolted onto the transmission case with three screws.

STEP 7
Axial SCX Transmission8
The slipper assembly gets a few notes too. Start by washing your hands. You don’t want greasy fingers on the pads. Next remove the white paper from the pad revealing the adhesive. Carefully place the pad into the keyed spur gear. Do this for both sides. Now slip a metal plate on the top shaft, followed by the spur gear bushing, the spur and then the second metal plate. Follow this with the spring and retaining nut. Tighten the retaining nut until you see 2-3 threads of the top shaft. This is a good starting point until you adjust the slipper later.

STEP 8
Axial SCX Transmission9
Finalize the slipper assembly by installing the spring and retaining nut. Tighten the retaining nut until you see 2-3 threads of the top shaft. This is a good starting point until you adjust the slipper later.

STEP 9
Axial SCX Transmission10
Now is the right time to install your motor and pinion gear. There is a slot in the side of the gear cover that will allow you to tighten the pinion gear with your 2mm hex driver. Take your time to set the gear lash properly so it doesn’t bind, nor is too loose.

STEP 10
Axial SCX Transmission11
Button up this transmission build by installing the gear cover on the front. Just be sure to carefully slide it on so the tab covers the slot where your hex driver was used to install the pinion.

AX90046 SCX10 II Jeep Cherokee Kit Build Series – Part 4

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We’re moving into a tricky area of our SCX10 II Build, the shocks. The AX90046  comes with the licensed Icon Vehicle Dynamics aluminum body oil filled coil-over shocks (AX30103) which are the preferred shocks for serious off-roaders. The shocks go together nice and smooth and offer excellent performance on the trail. Of course we do have a few tips to pass along to help you with building them so let’s get right into it.

GET READY
Axial SCX Icon Shocks 1
Like we’ve suggested in previous posts, it’s a great idea to get all the parts together that you’ll need to build this part of the kit. For tools you’ll need a pair of side-cutters, long nose pliers and we suggest TLR shock shaft pliers to hold the shafts. You can find TLR pliers HERE.

STEP 1
Axial SCX Icon Shocks 2
First up, we need to install the spring pre-load nut on the shocks. Using side-cutters, cut the nut off the tree and screw it onto the shock with the flange side facing the logos. Screw the nut on several threads so the shock caps can be installed later.

STEP 2
Axial SCX Icon Shocks 3
Oh, this is a fun job! Installing the e-clips on the shock shafts, watch out, they could go flying if you are not careful! With your needle nose pliers, snap the e-clip into the lower slot on the top of the shock shaft. Then slide your piston over the shaft and secure the top with another e-clip. Take your time here so you don’t lose any clips or damage the piston with the pliers.

STEP 4
Axial SCX Icon Shocks 4
Here is a tip you may not know. Before installing the o-rings in the shock, place them in a plastic bag from the kit followed by a few drops of shock oil and make sure they’re coated. This helps the shock feel smoother when completed.

STEP 5
Axial SCX Icon Shocks 5
Why are we showing you the shock o-ring spacers in a stand-alone photo? It is critical to cut the spacers from the tree without any extra plastic flashing. Extra plastic here could cause unwanted friction in the shock.

STEP 6
Axial SCX Icon Shocks 6
It’s time to install the shock seals into the bodies. Slip one o-ring into the base of the shocks, followed by the plastic spacer, then another o-ring followed by the lower shock cap. Tighten the lower cap firmly. After the seals are assembled, place a dot of oil on the shock shaft threads and slips the shafts into the shock bodies.

STEP 7
Axial SCX Icon Shocks 7
The lower shock ends need to be screwed onto the shock shafts. Do not use knurled pliers to hold the shaft, this could damage the shaft which will tear the o-ring seals. We suggest using shock shaft pliers to hold the shafts while installing the ends. Then pop the pivot balls into the shock ends.

STEP 8
Axial SCX Icon Shocks 8
You’ll need to prep the top shock cap before you fill your shocks with oil. These Icon replica shocks come with faux reservoirs for scale style. You’ll need to place the Icon logo on the reservoirs and then screw them to the shock caps. You’ll also need to slip an o-ring seal into the top of the cap. Watch, the o-ring may fall out. If this happens, placing a drop of oil in the cap can help keep it in place.

STEP 9
Axial SCX Icon Shocks 10
Fill the shock bodies with oil. After you fill the shock with oil almost to the top, take the shock shaft and slowly cycle it up and down. This will release any unwanted air.

STEP 10
Axial SCX Icon Shocks 11
Before screwing on the shock cap, push the shock shaft almost all the way up to the top.

STEP 11
Axial SCX Icon Shocks 12
With the shock shaft at the top, screw the shock cap onto the body and wipe off any excess oil with a paper tower. When the shock is assembled, the shock shaft should be able to be pushed all the way up to the top. If you have a large gap of shock shaft showing, you will have to bleed out excess oil. To do so, loosen the cap a few turns and push the shaft up. Oil should bleed out. Once a little oil bleeds out, retighten the cap and try it again. Keep bleeding the shock until the shaft reaches the top.

STEP 12
Axial SCX Icon Shocks 13
We’re getting close to wrapping up these shocks! Slide the springs over the shock bodies and slip on the shock perch. Snap an additional pivot ball into the shock caps.

FINISHED
Axial SCX Icon Shocks 14
Here’s how your shocks should look once completed. Note that there are front and rear springs so place them on the vehicle later accordingly.

Customize Your AR44’s In Minutes

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One of the best parts to owning an Axial SCX10 II is your ability to customize it to make it your own. There are plenty of performance and accessory parts to choose from and in this blog we’re going to show you how to customize your SCX10 II’s AR44 axles. This accessory swap should only take you minutes to perform and cost you under $10 for each axle. Here’s what you need to know.

PARTS NEEDED
Axial Black Axle Options 2
AR44 Black Differential Cover and Link Mounts- AX31437 (Quantity Needed: 2)

TOOLS NEEDED
Axial Black Axle Options 1
2mm Hex Driver

STEP 1
Axial Black Axle Options 3
Swapping out the differential cover is simple and can even be done while the axle is on the truck if you have a ball head 2mm hex driver. You’ll want to locate the four diff cover screw heads on the pinion out-put side of the axle and unscrew all four.

STEP 2
Axial Black Axle Options 4
After removing the four cover screws, pull the differential cover off, it’s in there pretty tight, so use some force to pull it from the axle housing.

STEP 3
Axial Black Axle Options 5
Break or cut the new black diff cover off of the parts tree in slip it into the axle. Make sure the indent on the cover faces the bevel gear side of the axle. Screw the four retaining screws back in and tighten them snug. This is how the axle looks with a black cover and red link mounts, a cool custom option.

STEP 4
Axial Black Axle Options 6
Want to swap the link mounts out too? First you’ll need to remove the suspension links and shocks from the mount. Then unscrew the mounts from the axle as shown above.

STEP 5
Axial Black Axle Options 7
Once you’ve installed the red mounts, break the black mounts from the parts tree and install them on the axle the where the red mounts were, paying close attention to how the mount is positioned. The link mount with extra support faces the bottom. This is how an all-black AR44 Axle looks.

FINISHED
Axial Black Axle Options 8
If you removed your axles from your rig, now is the time to reinstall them. Above is another option we wanted to show you. This axle is set up with black link mounts and a red diff cover. Build your axle the way you want it for a custom look!

AX90046 SCX10 II Jeep Cherokee Kit Build Series – Part 3

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Up next in the build series is assembling the links. Probably one of the best parts of the build, am I right guys?! Well, it might not be everyone’s favorite because it is some repetitive work, but what brightens up this particular job is that this kit comes with aluminum links which is preferred over composite links. This is some simple work but there are a few tips and tricks we can pass along.

TOOLS NEEDED
2.0mm hex driver
Side cutters

STEP 1
Axial Kit Build1
As always its best to gather the parts bags you’ll need and run through the steps in the manual quickly to help identify any details that require extra attention.

STEP 2
Axial Kit Build2
A little tip we like to pass along is to arrange the aluminum link tubes in size order so you identify them a bit easier as you go through the build steps.

STEP 3
Axial Kit Build3
Find the aluminum tubes used for the first link assembly. If you’re unsure of what size tube to use, you can place it on the 1:1 drawing to find the correct size.

STEP 4
Axial Kit Build4
Take a close look at the instructions to identify what rod ends you’ll need. There are a number of styles, some on angles and some are straight. You want to make sure the part number in the manual matches the rod end you use or there could be some suspension bind if you use the incorrect rod ends.

STEP 5
Axial Kit Build5
Using the 2mm hex driver, screw the set screws into the rod end until you just feel them bottom out.

STEP 6
Axial Kit Build6
Screw the rod ends into the aluminum tubes. Make sure the final locations of the ends match the illustrations in the manual.

STEP 7
Axial Kit Build7
Axial Kit Build8
Next you’ll need to insert the pivot balls into the rod ends. Note, the pivot balls have a large flanged end and a narrow end. Note the way they are installed as illustrated in the manual. Some links have both flanges face the same side while other links have an off-set installation.

STEP 8
Axial Kit Build9
The steering links and pan hard link should now be assembled. You can install them on the axle and steering knuckle with the hardware as indicated in the manual. Do not overtighten the screws. The pivot balls are plastic and can be crushed if you tighten the screws too much.

STEP 9
Axial Kit Build10
Next build the three links that will support the front axle and tie it to the chassis.

STEP 10
Axial Kit Build11
Screw the three links to the front axle, making sure the rod ends are facing the correct way as indicated by the illustrations.

STEP 11
Axial Kit Build12
By now you should have a good understanding of how the links go together. Assemble the four remaining rear links and attach them to the rear axle.

FINISHED
Axial Kit Build14
The link assembly is complete! If you used a hand tool, by now your wrist should be tires and your fingers sore from holding onto the rod ends. Congratulations you’re fitting nicely into the model community. Keep an eye out for the next steps of our build series where we’ll get into building the shocks.

Note: This How To Can Also be Used For Link Sets:
SCX10 II Front Links Set – AX31465
SCX10 II Rear Links Set – AX31466

AX90046 SCX10 II Jeep Cherokee Kit Build Series – Part 2

AX90046SCX10II_JeepCherokeeKit_Build_Series_Part2

Building your AX90046  kit is going to be a great and rewarding experience. You’ll see how each and every piece fits together and you control the build how you want it to be assembled. We’re starting the build at the beginning of the manual of course. This also means we’ll be starting with bag A and will eventually need to dip into some other bags of supporting parts.

TOOLS NEEDED
Axial Kit Build19
Cutters
1.5 and 2.0mm Hex Drivers

STEP 1

Axial Kit Build1

Open Bag A and organize your parts so you can see everything you’re working with.

STEP 2

Axial Kit Build2

Start by assembling the spool and ring gear. The gear is held onto the spool with three M2x8mm screws. Use a small drop of the included thread locking compound on each screw before installing it. Tighten the screws well so they do not back off. Then slip the 7x14x3.5mm bearing onto each end of the spool. Make two of these.

STEP 3

Axial Kit Build3

You now need to search for additional parts outside of Bag A. Look for Plastic Bag 1. This will have the axle parts you need for the next several steps.

STEP 4

Axial Kit Build4

Push the appropriate bearings into the plastic axle housing that support the bevel pinion gear followed by the gear itself. Take the supplied grease, puncture the end and liberally coat the ring gear on the spool with grease. More is better here, but make sure you have enough to coat the axle gears and the transmission gears later in this build.

STEP 5

Axial Kit Build5

Slip the spool assembly into the axle housing. It will only fit in one way. Cap the axle with the cover and the four M2.6x18mm screws. Use a quality 2mm hex driver to tighten the screws to a firm feel.

STEP 6

Axial Kit Build6

Next find the rest of the plastic axle components. When it time to cut them from the parts trees, use a good quality sprue cutter.

STEP 7

Axial Kit Build7

Cut the steering knuckle from the tree and insert the appropriate bearings into the knuckle to support the front universal shafts.

STEP 8

Axial Kit Build8

Push the universal driveshafts into the bearings.

STEP 9

Axial Kit Build9

Turn your attention back to the axles. It’s time to install the C-carriers. Slip the bearing into the axle followed by the carrier and secure it with the screw. Take extra time here and follow the manual. These carriers are installed in a certain way that is well diagrammed in the manual. Failure to install them correctly will result in some funky geometry that will not work well on the trail.

STEP 10

Axial Kit Build10

Slip the assembled driveshafts with carriers into the axle housing. You’ll then use the shoulder screws to secure the knuckles to the C-carriers. Take note of the direction of the parts here too. When screwing in the shoulder screws, make sure they are a bit past snug. Don’t over-tigthen the shoulder screws or you chance stripping out the C-carrier.

STEP 11

Axial Kit Build12

Gather up the parts to complete the rear axle assembly.

STEP 12

Axial Kit Build13

Slip the half-shaft into the axle housing making sure the flat end keys into the spool. Then place a bearing at the end of the shaft.

STEP 13

Axial Kit Build14

Slide the axle extension tube over the half-shaft and secure the part in place with the pinch screw.

STEP 14

Axial Kit Build15

We’re getting close to wrapping up the axle assembly. Locate the link mounts and secure them using M2.6x1mm screws. Tighten these screws firm, they support the suspension links. Install two link mounts on each axle case.

FINISHED

Axial Kit Build18

Here are the assembled front and rear axles. This build blog would also be helpful if you were building the AX31438 AR44 Locked Axle Set for a custom project. Take your time and build the axles right for smooth bind free operation.

AX90046 SCX10 II Jeep Cherokee Kit Build Series – Part 1

AX90046SCX10II_JeepCherokeeKit_Build_Series_Part1
The debate over which style of RC kit is better, ready to run or build kit, may never be resolved, but one thing is for sure, Axial serves up both styles for either type that suits your style. Since Axial builds a lot of projects, the team tends to lean towards a kit to build and well there are some exciting build projects in the works. So while we’re building up a new AX90046 SCX10 II™ 2000 Jeep® Cherokee 1/10th Scale Electric 4WD Kit to use as the base for a build, we charged up the camera to take some pictures along the way of a stock kit build. If you have any questions about building your SCX10 II kit, you’ll be able to reference this build series to get you through any steps. In the first part of this series, we’re going to go over the basics of the kit itself and things you’ll need for the perfect build.

2
When you get your kit, the first thing you should do is? Anybody? Empty the box and roll around in the Axial goodness? No that’s just too weird man. The first step is to go through the contents and familiarize yourself with what’s in the box.

3
Put your hand on the body, flip the box over and viola! The kit contents all packed up in an XJ shell.

5
Here’s the bag you should get into first. The bag with the manual.

7
If it’s your first time building a kit, you should read through the manual first. Look at what you need. Take note of hardware sizes. Look at the types of parts. What parts bags go with what steps. A run through ahead of time will minimize miss steps or something else that may throw your build off track.

8
When going through the steps, take out some of the parts bags so you know what to look for when you get to that particular step later.

9
The need to open a new bag may come at any time.

10
Sometimes it’s a good idea to lay out the parts bags in the order you’ll be assembling them.

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14
Wait! What are these green nubs and the religious item included in the kit? These green domes are course markers. They are put on the trail so you know where to drive your rig. If you get into competitions, you’ll see more of these on the trail. The silver tool is a cross-wrench that will service most hardware nuts on the truck.

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Now let’s get into what you need. With most kits, you’ll need electronics and you’ll need to pick these items up at your local hobby retail store or your favorite online business; Horizon Hobby has all of the gear shown above. For the SCX10 II Kit, you’ll need a radio with receiver, a steering servo, motor, speed control, battery, charger and possible connectors for your ESC.

17 18
Next up on the you’ll need list is tools. There are two examples above. The top is a bit more expensive tool set-up while the set below is a less expensive set that will get the job done too. You’ll need cutters, pleirs, a hobby knife, scissors, hex drivers and even nut drivers to complete the assembly of your kit. Here are some links to the tools above:
Dynamite Metric Hex Driver Set- DYNT2030
Dynamite Nut Driver Set- DYNT2010
Dynamite Start-up Tool Set- DYN2835

19
Finally the chemicals you’ll need. Some CA glue such as the thin adhesive shown here from Dynamite for the tires and some paint for the body. Window masks are included with the kit, but if you want to spray your body more than one color, you may need some masking tape to use for your designs.

6
No seriously; did you read the manual? Do it, it helps. That wraps it up for the introduction of this build series. Make sure you follow the build each week while we get this truck ready for off-road action.

 

 

Tips For Spray Painting Bodies

Tips4Painting_Lexan_Bodies
A task simple for some can be daunting for others. Spray painting an RC bodies is one of those tasks. For those who have not painted a body before, you’ve found the right blog to read. We’re going to show you just how to paint your first body successfully. These are simple tips and tricks that will allow you to paint your body so when you’re finished, it looks like it came from the factory. Let’s get started.

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We’re going to paint these RR10 Bomber panels for an upcoming project so they will be the demo pieces for this blog. Before you get started, here are a few things you’ll need to have on hand to get the job done. First, you’ll need spray paint of course. Make certain it is a polycarbonate compatible spray paint. This type of paint will adhere itself to the Lexan. Other paints may not adhere and flake off as soon as you roll your rig over. You’ll also need some dish soap, paper towels, masking tape and some warm water.

STEP 1
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The first step is to wash your body or panels. When the body is molded at the factory, sometimes oils from the molds or even someone’s hands can get on the body. Using the dish soap, a paper towel and some warm water, wash the body well and rinse out all of the soap.

STEP 2
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Now use some more towels to dry the body. Do not leave any water on the body. Get into all the creases with the towel to get the water out or it will deflect the paint leaving fish-eye like marks.

STEP 3
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We’re getting close to spraying the paint. Before you do so, you’ll want to shake the can of paint for a few minutes to mix the contents as you would do with any can of paint. Now here’s an additional trick some painters don’t share. Run warm water over the can to help warm the contents. This will help pressurize the can and make the spray come out in a fine pattern to better coat the body.

TIP
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Another tip we have is to hold the body about 8-10 inches from the spray can. Spray too close and you can get drips or uneven spray patterns. Spraying farther away will help coat the body evenly.

STEP 4
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Now it’s time for your first coat. In one direction, either horizontally of vertically spray the body. Don’t spray the body directly. Start spraying and move the can across the body and stop spraying when the can has past the body. If you hold the can directly at the body and spray, you can’t just blobbing the paint in one spot. Now for the next pass, shift the can and repeat the process until the body has a very light first coat of paint. Set the body aside and let it dry; fifteen to twenty minutes is a good drying time.

STEP 5
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Time for the second coat. Basically repeat the steps above. Warm the can, note your spacing, start your spray before the body and stop after you’ve passed over the body. Hold the body up to some light to see how the coverage is. Here our second coat covered well on the right side, we’re going to make one or two more passes on the left side to even up the coverage and then set it aside to dry.

STEP 6
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Here is the interior of our bomber after the third coat. We still have some clear spots to fill in. To do this, we’ll get just a little closer with the can to get the paint into the hard to reach areas. If you are spraying flat panels, keep your distance and spray over the light areas.

TIP
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Some panels can be difficult to hold. Using some tape, stick it to the panel and make a small fold in the center to hold onto.

TIP
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Be aware that some colors may need to be backed by another color. Fluorescent colors typically need to be backed with white. Candy colors can be backed with white, silver, gold and sometimes even black. If your solid color still seems transparent, consider backing it with white or even a silver. Keep in mind that whatever color you use to back your paint may alter the main color. So if you spray black behind red, it may turn the red dark. It may be better to back red with a silver as if the red is too transparent, a white might make it look pink. Here’ we’re backing this white panel with silver to give it a more opaque look.

FINISHED
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There we have it, a perfectly painted interior for our Bomber. Don’t forget to pull the overspray film off of the Lexan before applying decals. The interior is now ready to be installed. We hope this simple spray painting tutorial helps you spray paint your first body shell. Make sure to check back often on the Axial Blog as we’ll get into more complex paint jobs in the future.