SCX10 II Trail Honcho Truck Tips & Tricks For Noobs


Getting your RC adventure underway has never been easier with the well equipped, affordable SCX10 II Trail Honcho ready to run. This revival of the original Honcho body, from the famed SCX10, now features an updated electronics package combined with improved SCX10 II platform. It’s aimed at getting anyone into the hobby and on the trails with success. It of course is also a great truck for the seasoned enthusiast. But our focus here is on the many who will pick up an RC transmitter for the first time with the Trail Honcho and we want their first adventure to be the best of many trail driving experiences to come. Here we’ll go over all the basics from the unboxing to checking over your rig for its first run, tips for your first drive and tricks to keep it in proper running order.
Honcho 3

Before just diving into your new RC adventure, take the time to unbox and educate yourself about everything that encompases your new Honcho kit. Inside the box, you’ll need to cut the zip-ties securing the truck to the inner box support. Remove the radio from it’s packaging and dip into the bag with instructions and accessories. The most important step here is to read the manual. Although we’re walking you through the paces here, it is always best to familiarize yourself with the manual in case you have any questions in the future. After your up to par with manual, take a look at what is included with the kit. You’ll find a bag of “extra parts” these parts are unused during the assembly of the kit and may be used for future projects once you get hooked on your Axial adventures and trust us, you will get hooked. There will also be some basic tools in the kit, these should be transferred to your adventure backpack as they make great tools for on-trail repairs. And finally you’ll notice some green “domes” we’ll talk about this later.

Honcho 2
Honcho 1

We’re moving onto the fun part; getting your Honcho going. First remove the four body clips that secure the body to the chassis, remove the body completely and set it aside. Now you can access the battery tray. At some point at your local hobby shop or online, you’ve purchased a battery and charger for the rig. Locate the battery tray and unhook the Velcro strap. Slide your charged battery into the tray and secure the velcro back in place to retain the battery. Next move to the transmitter and install four AA batteries that you supply into the radio. Power the radio on using the switch on the face of the radio. Now move back to the SCX10 II and plug in the battery. The battery plug is your on/off switch for the truck. Tip: The radio is always on first and off last. Your SCX10 II is now powered up and ready to go after placing the body back on the truck and securing it with the four clips.

Honcho 4 Honcho 5

Head outdoors and place the Honcho on the ground for a quick systems check. The electronics should be dialed in from the factory, but things can happen. You’ll want to check to make sure your trims are set properly. First is your truck moving on its own when you power it up? If so, you will need to use the throttle trim on your radio to reset your neutral point. Use either button for throttle trim to find the neutral. If you tap the trim on one side and the truck starts moving more, it means you’ll need to use the opposite button to get the throttle back to neutral. Keep tapping the button until the car stops (is at its neutral point.) With the throttle set, check to see if the truck tracks straight. With the vehicle pointing away from you, give the truck a little throttle. Note if the truck tends to “drift” towards the left or right. If so, use your steering trim to find the neutral point of the steering in a similar fashion to the throttle adjustment.
Honcho SCX10 2

Wait! Now that your truck is trimmed, you probably have the urge to pin the throttle and see what the truck can do. We’ll get there. First start by driving slow in a figure eight pattern. This means giving the truck a little bit of throttle trigger input and steering the truck in a figure eight pattern; turn the wheel right, go straight a bit, turn the wheel to the left, repeat. This will help you get a feel for how the steering feels reversed when coming towards you. When the truck is going away from you, steering the radio wheel to the right will always turn the truck to the right, but will feel reversed coming back towards you. Get a feel for the throttle range in both forwards and reverse. Note: the throttle is not an on/off switch and is proportional. In trail truck driving much of your rock crawling adventures will happen at a slower speed.
Honcho SCX10 7

Before going out and driving on the gnarliest terrain you can find, practice on something less harsh. Find small hills or rocks with a slight incline to drive on. First drive straight up and down the obstacle. Note the amount of throttle it takes to make the incline and how the drag brake in the speed control affects the decline. Next drive up on an angle. Like a real vehicle, the trucks center of gravity may want to cause the truck to roll over. Determining the type of angle you can drive on before the truck wants to roll over is all a part of developing driving skill.

Honcho SCX10 6

With a general feel of how the Honcho drives, you can venture out for tougher obstacles. Find steeper inclines, off-set rock ledges, varying rock surfaces and use your newfound vehicle control to try and get your truck over the terrain. Think about where the wheels need to be places on rocks, how much steering you need to use, how much throttle and where will the truck be positioned when you’ve tackled what’s in front of you. Remember, you need to set yourself up for the next obstacle too. Then it will become time to refine your lines, challenge yourself and that’s where those little green domes come in that you found in the kit. These green things are gate markers and they are set on trail courses for your rig to pass through. They’re usually placed in positions that will challenge your skill. Find challenging parts on your trial and place these markers so you can practice driving through gates.

Honcho SCX10 3

What happens when your truck rolls over? Well, in real life, if a truck rolls over, no big hand reaches down from the sky to flip it back over. So, you need to use vehicle control to try and right the truck. If the Honcho is completely upside down, try using throttle and steering to “wiggle” the truck over. Or towards a nearby object. The point is to get the wheels to grab onto something to help pull it back over. If the truck is on its side, you can turn into the ground and give it throttle. This will oftentimes pull the truck out of the roll over and back onto its wheels.

Honcho SCX10 5

The rest of your driver education is up to you. To improve your skill, try locating nearby parks or even an urban adventure away from the public. Finding new places to have an adventure each time you go out with the Honcho will improve your driving skill. But in the bigger picture, you’re also going out and finding new adventures for yourself. Adventures that will not only build skills and love for a hobby, but will also build memories.
Honcho SCX10 4

Once your adventure outdoors is over, you’re not exactly done with your Honcho rig. A maintained rig is always a well performing rig. Take the time to remove any dirt and debris from the truck. A simple 2” paintbrush and a little elbow grease knocking off dirt from the truck can clean it up. Compressed air works as well. If your adventure lead you into the wetlands, take a look at our Driveline Maintenance Tips to help you with your clean-up procedures.
Honcho SCX10 1

At some point, You’ll want to join the custom club. Installing option parts to make your honcho stand out or to make it more durable for the adventures you’ll put the rig through. Here are five option parts we recommend you take a look at when taking your SCX10 II Honcho to the next level.  

Gear Set (48P 28T, 48P 52T)
Part- AX31585
If you read the story of the Honcho taking on the Redonda Ridge Adventure, you saw the rough terrain eventually took its toll on the transmission gears. Luckily this is an inexpensive upgrade up to steel gears if you feel your truck needs it.

Aluminum Servo Horn 25T (Hard Anodized)
Part- AX30836
The steering is among one of the most abused parts of any vehicle. Swapping the stock plastic servo horn for the aluminum option could prevent any unwanted steering issues on the trail.

M4 Serrated Nylon Lock Nut
Part- AXA1046
For obvious reasons the wheels endure a lot of abuse during use. This on occasion can lead to a wheel nut backing off. The locking serrated nuts grab onto the wheels for extra security.

SCX10 TR Links Set – 12.3″ (313mm) WB
Part- AX30550
Although the links on the SCX10 II Honcho have been greatly improved over the previous units on the SCX10, upgrading to aluminum links is a popular upgrade for many adventurers.

Steering Upgrade Kit
Part- AX30426
Like the suspension links, the stock plastic steering link can take a lot of abuse and flex during use. In this set, you can use the long link to upgrade your SCX10 II.

Honcho SCX10 7
With your new found hobby and new found key to adventure, keep things interesting by continuing to drive on new trails, build new courses in your backyard, continually modify and upgrade your Honcho to reflect you, your likes and interests. Every day is a new adventure behind the wheel of the Honcho and can give you new found enjoyment outdoors while learning new sets of skill. When you do conquer a new challenge, be certain to document your experience with a photo on social media and give it the hashtag #AxialAdventures so other adventurers can see what you’re up to.


How To: Power Your Axial LED Lights


Lighting in a scale truck is pretty much mandatory nowadays. The new Jeep Rubicon Unlimited CRC and Honcho both feature factory equipped lights and the new AE5-L speed control to power the lights. However, if you don’t have one of those specific models, there are still plenty of optional LED lights available from the Axial line-up to customize your specific trail rig. Like many LED light sets on the market, each set has their own designated use and may need specific power setups in order for them to work properly. In this Axial LED overview, we’re going to take a look at the individual light sets and appropriate power sources and controllers so you know what is compatible when going to equip your rig with lights.



NVS – Night Visions System
Part- AX24251
The NVS kit gives you everything you need to give your rig a full custom lit look. Headlights, tail lights, marker lights and most importantly a power and control module. This system comes with the power module that will provide the correct power for the included LED light strings. Power to the module is provided by an in-line adapter that goes between the battery and ESC.

POWERED BY: Included in-line adapter (Note: Plugs may need to be exchanged depending on existing speed control and battery plug type)

Simple LED Controller w/LED lights (4 white and 2 red)
Part- AX24257
This Simple LED Controller includes 4 bright white LED’s, AX24258, and 2 bright red LED’s, AX24253. Other light strands compatible with the controller are: AX24252, AX24253, AX24254, AX24255, AX24256, and AX24258. Controller can power two 2 or 4 LED Strings only.
POWERED BY: Open Receiver Port (CH 3, Aux, etc.)


8-String LED

8 LED Light String (White LED)
Part- AX31098
This light string works pefectly with the AX31152 Axial LED light bar or other custom applications. This specific light string requires the AX31097 3 port high output LED controller to power it.

Double LED Light String

Double LED Light String (White LEDs)
Part-  AX24252
The perfect LED set for headlights. This light string can only be powered by the Axial NVS – Night Visions System – AX24251  and/or Simple LED Controller- AX24257.

Double LED Light String (Red LED)

Double LED Light String (Red LED)
Part- AX24253
Often used for tail lights, the Double Red LED String must be used with Axial NVS – Night Visions System – AX24251 and/or Simple LED Controller- AX24257 installed for vehicles that do not include light strings.

Double LED Light String (Orange LED)

Double LED Light String (Orange LED)
Part- AX24254
Double Orange  LED light strings for turn signals; these are powered either by
the Axial NVS – Night Visions System – AX24251 and/or the Simple LED Controller- AX24257.

Single LED Light String (White LED)

Single LED Light String (White LED)
Part- AX24255
Additional/replacement LED light string. Must have Axial NVS – Night Visions System – AX24251 and/or Simple LED Controller- AX24257 installed for vehicles that do not include these light strings.


5 LED Light String (White LED)

5 LED Light String (White LED)
Part- AX24256
5 LED light string for auxiliary lights (White LED). Must have Axial NVS – Night Visions System – AX24251 and/or Simple LED Controller- AX24257 installed for vehicles that do not include these light strings.


4 LED Light String (White LED)
Part- AX24258
Must have Axial NVS – Night Visions System – AX24251 and/or Simple LED Controller- AX24257 installed for vehicles that do not include these light strings.


3-port controller
3 Port High Output LED Controller
Part- AX31097
Compatible with Axial’s 8 LED string (AX31098) in the HO port. A 2 or 4 LED string can run off of the two additonal ports. This light controller fills the gap between the basic simple LED kit (AX24257) and the full blown Night Vision System (AX24251). It has the ability to power 3 separate LED strings and Includes harness extension for removing the body.


Universal 5 Bucket Light Bar Set
Part- AX30709
Axial’s new Universal 5 Bucket Light Bar Set comes with a complete set of screws and plastic parts designed for a variety of Axial vehicles as well as a universal system for additional mounting applications. The light bar’s tubular design gives your vehicle cool scale looks and each light bucket can be outfitted with an LED light to help guide the way on those late night runs (LED lights sold separately).The set also includes three different mesh grilles for your lights: plain, Axial and officially licensed PIAA grill covers. PIAA is a registered trademark of PIAA Corporation.

AX24251 – NVS Night Vision System with LED lights
AX24257 – Simple LED controller with LED lights
AX24256 – Axial 5 LED light string

Universal Rigid Light Bar Set
Axial LED light bar, officially licensed by Rigid Industries!
Part- AX31152

This molded plastic housing includes three different length light bars, hardware, universal mounting brackets, clear LED lenses and Instructions. For use with optional AX31098 8 LED Light String (White LED) and AX31097 3 Port High Output LED Controller.

Light Bucket Set (Black)

Light Bucket Set
Part- AX80045
Get custom and add lights where you want to. This set includes seven different styles of light buckets with plastic lenses in clear and yellow to hold 5mm and 3mm LED lights.


Now that we have some of your options out of the way it’s time to talk about where to tap into the power on your rig in order to light up those LED’s

Receiver Power- Units like the 3 Port High Output LED Controller can be powered from the receiver. A extension plug is provided to plug into any open port on the receiver. Be aware that the receivers voltage may be regualted and may not power the controller correctly. As a result the lights may appear dim. In this case you may need to direct wire the controller.

Direct Power- The NVS includes an adapter to receive power directly from your rigs main battery. This ensures the unit receives the voltage necessary to light up the LED’s. Direct power connections is another way of hooking up other controllers or LED systems to power the LED’s. To do this, an extension wire needs to be soldered to the positive and negative battery wire solder posts, or wires, or connectors on the ESC. Now, when you plug in your battery, your LED lights will instantly illuminate unless you decide to solder in an in-line switch as well.

Even with all of the information above, your personal alterations to your electronics may have an effect on your LED lighting. Other factors can include battery voltage. When making changes to your vehicle beyond what is described, be aware that additional testing may need to take place in order to make your system work properly.

LED Light How To


Schultz Lab Magnetic Body Mounting How To


Strange things happen in the mind of John Schultz and many times there are some great results from those endless random thoughts. Sure, you may have heard of his epic trail builds at Axialfest, but a recent mind melt session in the Schultz Lab yielded a great how to on setting up your body for a super scale look using magnets to secure the shell. Photos were pinched, helpful tips jotted down and we’re going to pass along the information so you can mount your next body sans body clips.
Axial Body Mount 2

Axial Body Mount 5

First things first. Don’t drill any body mounting holes in your freshly painted body. Place the body on your rig and get a feel for where it needs to be positioned.

Axial Body Mount 3

You’ll need to determine where the magnets need to be placed on the inside of the body. There are several ways to do this. Some people put a small dot of paint on the top of the body posts or some black marker so it transfers to the body to designate the body mount locations. John Shultz uses a dab of peanut butter and then eats the rest of the jar. Some bodies do have dimples molded in the body to identify the mounting points and these can of course be used too.

Axial Body Mount 4

If you do use peanut butter, er um, marker to transfer your body mount points, press down firmly to transfer the “substance” to the body.

Axial Body Mount 10

Now it’s time to find some magnets that can be used to secure the body. John found these 1/2″ x 1/4″ x 1/8″ Neodymium Ring Magnets that fit perfectly on the SCX10 II body posts.

Axial Body Mount 11

Once you’re satisfied with the fit of the magnets on the posts, place a small amount of 5-minute 2-part epoxy to the base of the body mounts and slide the magnets onto the posts.

Axial Body Mount 12

Once the epoxy has cured, use a pair of side cutters to cut the top of the post off so it will allow the magnet, that will be secured to the body, to sit on the post magnet.

Axial Body Mount 9

Now it’s time to secure the magnets to the body. Use the epoxy to secure the magnets to the body. Make certain that the mark you made on the body in STEPS 2 & 3 is in the center of the magnet holes. Use some packing tape to help secure the magnets while the epoxy dries. This is a critical step. You don’t want the magnets to move and then the epoxy dries and you have no way to move the mount. A magnet that moves during this step will most likely result in the body not sitting properly on the chassis.

Axial Body Mount 15

Here you can see the magnets epoxied to the roof which was done prior to John installing his interior. Once the epoxy has dried on all of the magnets, you’re ready to drop the body on your chassis with the ease of magnets holding it in place. Not only will the body be held firmly in place, but it also looks much more scale without body posts and its super easy to take the body off for battery swaps or turning the truck on and off.

Axial Body Mount 6

You may have noticed in some photos that an interior was installed in the 2017 Jeep® Wrangler Unlimited CRC body. To do this, John took a 2012 Jeep® Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon Body and cut the exterior off, leaving just the interior and roll cage to secure to the new Jeep Wrangler Unlimited body. The result of course is a more scale looking rig to hit the trails with.


With just a little bit of modeling skill, some standard shop tools and some magnets that can be found anywhere online, you can increase the scale look of your machine, while making the chassis easily accessible. It might even become something you’ll want to build a shrine for…

Axial Body Mount 18



Axialfest Adventures – Video Collection


It’s never too early to start thinking about Axialfest. Actually does anyone stop thinking about Axialfest? It can be said for certain that those who have attended Axialfest never forget their time there. If you’re new to the event, then we can get you right up to speed on what experiences you can have there. You’re about to witness a collection of Axialfest videos produced by people who are truly passionate about the radio control hobby and who are now passionate about what goes on at Axialfest. The collection covers some of the best videos posted to Youtube. Not all of the videos, there are certainly many more amazing videos created by attendees that we urge you to hunt for on Youtube, but the videos selected here will get you ramped up for Axialfest 2018 and beyond.

Before we take a look at some of the highlight videos from each year, it is important to know what is Axialfest. This video from the Axialvideos Youtube page gives you the deep down meaning of the event:

AMain Hobbies
AxialFest 2017 by AMain Hobbies
Team AMain Hobbies Presents AxialFest 2017. The crew that attended Axialfest 2017 has put together an amazing presentation of what goes on at the event. Rigs in action, the excitement of the participants the beauty of the setting this video will leave you wanting to see more and attend Axialfest if you don’t already.

4-Days Of AXIALFEST In 16 Minutes – Get In The Know Before You Go
Axialfest can seem overwhelming for the first time attendee, but here each day’s events are broken down so you know what to expect. The elements of Axialfest evolve each year, but this will help you start your journey.

5150 Media Productions
Come Drive With Us – Axialfest
Probably one of the most epic documentary style videos about Axialfest is the 5150 2016 video sponsored by Pro-Line Racing. This finely crafted film gives you the background of Axialfest, what it means to the people that attend it, the grueling terrain both people and Axial rig endure at the amazing grounds of Cisco Grove. Here, you’ll see people come together from all over the world all with one passion, Axial.

2015 (Uploaded in 2018)
This is AxialFest!
Scale Builders Guild
Scale Builders Guild is known for its unique view on the scale and trail community and they took that talented perspective to Axialfest in 2015 to capture some amazing moments. Plenty of action footage was packed into this video and covers all of the special events and terrain you can tackle with your rig.

AxialFest 2014 Highlights
RC Logic
This video takes a good look at the rough terrain your rig can encounter at Cisco Grove and of course the fun you can encounter with the people who attend.

Axialfest 2013
Sometimes it good to look back, way back. This is a look at Axialfest back in 2013 and if you watches the videos above you’ll see some changes in format, but many other things are still common. The love for Axial, friendships, custom built trail rigs, amazing adventures and most importantly the appreciation for the fans.

There are plenty of thrilling moments and messages in those videos. What it’s like to be a part of the Axial lifestyle; to eat, sleep and then work or drive your Axial rig day in and day out. To seek out people just like you who love Axial, who want to build great things, to express yourself through a moving model that will turn heads and then have those people approach you to talk more about your passion. At Axialfest everyone is there to be appreciated by the company Axial, but everyone there appreciates each other for having the same love for Axial radio control vehicles.

Maintain Your Driveline After Winter Weather Driving


Just because it’s cold, wet, snowy, icy and sometimes just miserable weather doesn’t stop the majority of Axial drivers from getting their RC drive on. All of those conditions can translate to a lot of fun, cool photos and great stories to talk to your trail buddies about. But after your four-wheeling trek across the frozen tundra of your backyard or weather beaten nearby park, you need to give your machine a little TLC in order for it to continue to run at optimum performance. Here we’ll go over the key areas to focus on to check and maintain.

Snow 1

Before we dip into the checks and techniques to maintaining your machine, there is one running situation we’d suggest you avoid when running your car in snowy conditions. This harmful situation for your machine is running in an area where salts and chemicals have been used to melt the snow. Sure a slushy parking lot four-wheel drive donut session sounds fun, but the salts or other ice melting chemicals mixed in with that slush can accelerate the corrosion of metal parts and even eat away at some finished plastics. Try to stay away from the tempting slush slides and if you do push the limits and put your rig through a salt bath, be certain to follow the cleaning and maintenance steps we’re about to outline.

There is one thing to remember when running in any type of wet conditions, water goes anywhere it wants. So when running in water, your hardware, screws, nuts, pins, bearings, shafts, any metals are subject to getting wet and rusting or corroding. Each and every metal on your car should be inspected and addressed if necessary in order to prevent a problem.

Snow 2

One of the first things many suggest to do to an RC car that is covered in water is to immediately spray as many metal parts and hardware as possible with WD-40 to combat any corrosion that is immediately setting in. Although WD-40 is known as a rust inhibitor, it should not be your only mode of defence. If possible, you should also blow your rig off with air, blow every last little area on the machine, an air compressor with some decent pressure would be the best here, but smaller blowers or in the worst case, a hair dryer would work too.

Screw rust
Hardware- Screws, nuts, pins, screw pins and so on are obvious. However you can live it a little rust on these, there won’t be any performance or wear issue if most of these are not treated. The few items to watch though are the screws and sleeves in caster blocks. Rust here may cause issues later. Axle shafts are another area. Rust can build up and often make it difficult to remove from support bearings.

Universals- If your rig is equipped with universal driveshafts in the front axles, do yourself a favor and keep them dry and lube them or WD-40 them after wet use. It is even a good idea to pick the rig up and give the vehicle some throttle while blowing off the components or spraying them with a rust inhibitor to get water out and get the inhibitor into the moving parts. Water sitting in there will cause rust later. Your universal joints in your rigs center shafts should get the same treatment.

Bearings- Getting water out of your bearings is no easy task. If you submerge your rig, water will get in the bearings. Do your best to blow out the bearings with air, blast them with an cleaning spray like a motor spray and then with WD-40. Picking your vehicle up off the ground and running your driveline to help expel water is a good idea too. Once you feel you’ve done your best to get the water out, use a micro oiler to re-oil the bearings.

Gears- Depending on the gears you use, metal or aluminum, are subject to problems caused by water. Use a paper towel or any of the previously mentioned methods to dry them off and then be sure to coat them with a generous amount of grease for extra protection.

Yes, this blog is about your driveline, but we want you to know everything…
Electronics- Just because your electronics are weather-proof, water-resistant and whatever doesn’t mean you should put them away wet. It’s always a good practice to dry them off with towels or compressed air just as a extra precautionary measure to make certain nothing happens to these expensive components.
Tire foams- If your tires are vented and you’ve run in water, you need to do your best to get the water out. If you are running beadlocks, it would be best to pull your rims apart, take the foam out and dry them off by compressing them in dry towels. If your tries have been glued to the rims, try squeezing as much water out as possible and place the tire in a warm place to allow water to evaporate. If the hole in the tire can be place down, do so so water can drain out of the tire.
Batteries- If your battery gets wet, take the time to shake out any water and blow off water with compressed air. Always use caution when handling batteries.

Snow 3

No doubt driving in wintry wet weather is fun, but proper maintenance afterward is time consuming. If you’re the type that loves maintenance or doesn’t mind the work after the occasional slush splash, then go for it, have fun. The worst case is, you may need to replace your bearings with a new set from Axial or a trusted bearing supplier like Team Fast Eddy Bearings. If rusty screws are not your thing, you can take a look at aftermarket screw sets like those from Team KNK. Keep an eye on those driveshafts and gears, they are a more costly item to replace. Take the time to maintain your rig and it will last you a long time, no matter what type of environment you run it in.

SCX10 II Trail Honcho 1/10th Scale Electric 4WD RTR Video Collection

SCX10II_Trail_Honcho_Video Look what’s back, the trail rig that lured so many RC enthusiasts off of the tracks and from backyards to the trails for an off-road adventure. The Trail Honcho again graces the trails, this time with the new SCX10 II platform under the iconic Honcho body. But there is a bit more than meets the eye. The SCX10 II has gone through a few revisions and optimized in a way that still delivers the scale performance enthusiasts desire and now at a price that many will find affordable. The Trail Honcho will get you into the scale off-road scene and the level you take your hobby to is up to you. To get you up to speed on what Youtube’s top influencers are saying about the SCX10 II Trail Honcho, we’ve gathered a collection of videos so you can easily see what these trusted channels have to say about the rig.

Axial Videos

Axial AX90059 SCX10™ II Trail Honcho™ – Hike across Redonda Ridge For the launch, the Axial crew went to great lengths to show you the capability of this new release. The SCX10™ II Trail Honcho™ is the reliable choice for scale trail fun! For the past nine years the SCX10™ has been the staple vehicle platform for scale trail enthusiasts around the world. When it’s you, the trail and your rig, you want the tried, and true. You want real world community tested, hobby shop supported, aftermarket supported with close to ten years of history and scale trail adventures. The Trail Honcho™, built on the SCX10™ II chassis, meets the demands and the rigors of scale trailing miles from home when you need reliability the most! The Redonda Ridge Trail, within the mountains of Big Bear California, is mostly used by off road motorcyclist, and revered as the Malcolm Smith Trail due to it’s technical tenacity. The trail was recently re-visited by one of Axial’s own; part of a crew who had traversed the 9.68 mile OHV trail a few times in the past on motorcycles. The thought came about that it would make for a great SCX10™ proving ground, thus the idea was conceptualized to hike the trail, and put the latest version of the Trail Honcho™ through its paces, to uphold the “Trail Honcho” name by putting it on a “black diamond” trail for full size vehicles. Axial takes toys seriously, plays seriously, and made plans to go the extra mile to showcase the Axial SCX10™ Trail Honcho™ in it’s true, namesake terrain.

Harley Designs

Axial SCX10-2 Trail Honcho RTR AX90059 – First Drive – Pre-Budget Build! Harley Designs has already released a number of videos on the Trail Honcho and detailed  the rig before it was even in his hands in the Budget Build Time! Axial SCX10-II Trail Honcho RTR video. After, he followed up with a first running video during a New Year’s Eve trip. The adventure on the rocks is pretty exciting and filmed from a number of perspectives including some drone shots and backed up with some great music. Harley Designs has also teamed up with Scale Builders Guild for a head to head budget build series on the rig. The number of episodes the Trail Honcho will go through has not yet been announced.

Scale Builders Guild

The Trail Honcho is Back! The Scale Builders Guild drops some knowledge on you about the big changes to the SCX10 II Trail Honcho, first going over the links that so many people are talking about. Mathew of SBG takes and compares an old link to a new link to show the difference between the two. His opinion of the new link? Well, you’ll need to watch it to find out. What we can tease is SBG’s overall opinion: “This is a great entry-level truck to fuel your new RC obsession! It’s got a great price point for an RTR and should be robust enough to tackle any trail.” And finally Mathew goes over a number of other changes to the rig and also talks about the budget build series with Harley Designs, using the Trail Honcho.

Hemistorm RC

LOW BUDGET FUN! – Axial SCX102 Trail Honcho Hemistorm RC dips right into the SCX10 II Honcho and delivers a great overview of the trucks new features and what he likes about the original Honcho. Hemistorm explains that at $329, getting the Axial scale experience with the SCX102 chassis has never been more affordable then it is with the Trail Honcho. He discusses the updates in the axle and link design, along with a the budget friendly Tactic radio. Stiff plastic links, single piece axle housings with a reinforced truss section and the use of the AX10 transmission case offer a solid base, along with all the electronics that we’ve seen proven in the other SCX102 platforms, as the Trail Honcho shares a lot of parts with the other versions, the Cherokees and the CRC JK. His overall opinion? The “Trail Honcho one of the most attractive ready-to-run RC trail trucks.”

Extreme Scale Performance RC

Axial AX90059 SCX10II Trail Honcho UNBOXED! If you like some raw unboxing with some suspension squishing, suspension flexing, tire squishing and even watching someone taking a hit of fresh tire smell, then Extreme Scale Performance has the video for you. CWC goes over all the details from the box to the rig from his side arm cam view. He gives you his deep thoughts and opinions on some of the new parts found on the Trail Honcho SCX10 II platform like the links, axles and transmission set-up. No drive time here, but plenty of detailed honest info.

RC Driver Online

The Honcho Returns! Better & Budget Friendly – Axial SCX10 II Trail Honcho Review This video is a long one folks, RC Driver Online unloads a thorough unboxing video giving you all the details you could possibly want and more about the Honcho. You want to know specifically what it comes with all the way to what changes were made in this specific SCX10 II RTR, it’s here. Then RC Driver goes on to talk about the differences in the Honcho kit in comparison to the two other SCX10 II ready to runs available at this time; the SCX10 II 2000 Jeep Cherokee and the SCX10 II 2017 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited CRC. After that tour, the Trail honcho is taken out for a frigid drive under some bridges in a snow covered park. Then the video is wrapped up with thoughts of the rigs performance. If you want to know everything about the Trail Honcho in one shot, sit back, relax, learn a whole lot and enjoy the drive with RC Driver.

Axialfest 2018 – Get Ready


Since July 2017, Axial drivers across the globe have been waiting for a certain announcement; the dates for Axialfest 2018. Those dates have been released and officially Axialfest 2018 will be held July 18-21st; so hit those calendar apps and save those dates.


If you’ve never been to Axialfest, then there’s no better time than now to save the date, start making plans and get excited for the RC adventure that so many have already experienced and love. To get you going, here are a few great articles and videos to help you prepare and know what goes on at Axialfest.

AXIALFEST 2017: General Info and Code of Conduct


Follow this link HERE  for general information and the code of conduct for the event. Although this is the 2017 article, the 2018 info and conduct code will be similar.



HERE is a great collection of video clips from 2017 that will give you more information and details on what happens at Axialfest.



Long time Axialfest attendee and frequent Axial blogger Skeeno put together a great four part overview of his 2017 experience. You’ll certainly get a lot of details from this read: Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, Part 4


Want the full scoop in a short amount of time? The video above will give you the full four day run-down of Axialfest in just sixteen minutes. Get In The Know Before You Go!

Start Prepparing
The best advice for going to Axialfest and having a great time is not waiting until the last minute to prepare for the trip and event. Plan your custom builds now and get to work. Or do as many do and show up with a Ready To Run, ready to have fun. Plan out what you’ll wear, what you’ll eat and where you’ll sleep. If you stay off the grounds, you’ll need to find accommodations. Most stay at Cisco Grove Campgrounds, but please wait until an official announcement is made to call the facility to book your camping spot. Now, let the countdown begin to #Axialfest2018!

mAh Per Mile – The Quest To Determine Run Time


If you’ve ever sat around the campfire at an RC event or perhaps camped out with some buddies on an epic multi-day RC trail adventure, you may have heard the tale of “mAh Per Mile.” As the tale goes, a rugged RC adventurer, gear junkie, and as legend has it, talented Global Marketing Director has been spotted wandering some well worn trails through California. The man, well supplied with all the contents needed for a trail hike is on some sort of mission. Passer-bys stare at him in wonder as he trudges through the less taken path, his head down and muttering to himself. What is he saying? What is he doing. On one trail, the Redonda Ridge Trail it was evident things were getting more serious. He now travels in a herd of RC trail adventurers and some of his mutters turned into recognizable phrases. “mAh Per Mile” “mAh Per Mile” he kept repeating.

mAh Battery

What is this “mAh Per Mile?” It actually may be the answer to an age old RC question; “How long will my RC truck run for?” Real cars are rated by miles per gallon to determine how far can you travel. But there hasn’t been anything comparable in the RC world to define how far an RC rig can go. Well, we actually know who that mystery trail adventurer is, it’s Rodney Wills and for the longest time, he’s been determined to deliver answers to some of RC’s important questions and how long can you drive your SCX10 for is one. Rodney is on a mission to put numbers on paper and his quest to do so has been deemed “mAh Per Mile.”

This blog post will serve as an evolving report of a talented Axial team put together by Rodney to determine an answer to the burning question. The team will be testing different batteries, different rigs all in an effort to get out of the office and have fun on the trails. WAIT! I mean test RC equipment for the good of telling you how much time and fun you can get from your Axial adventure machine. Watch the videos and keep checking back to the Axial Blog to see how the science, testing and general goofing off unravels.

mAh Per Mile – Explaining Gas Mileage for Your Rig

There’s one question we hear a lot – how far will your rig go on one battery? To find the answer, we’ve created a little formula; mAh Per Mile. In Part 1 of this series, we break down the ‘how far will it go’ question and fill you in on how we plan to find out using this formula.

mAh Per Mile – Part 2 – Testing Our Mileage on the Trail

In Part 1, we discussed the idea behind mAh Per Mile – how far can your vehicle go on a specified battery pack. In Part 2, we take 3 Axial SCX10 II rigs out (with different electronic setups) to see how far we can go on a 2000mAh LiPo battery. The results are actually quite revealing…

Axial Radio System Cheat Sheet


A radio control transmitter should be a device used to control the fun of your vehicle and never the device that controls you and scares you away from using your machine. The transmitters that come with Axial Ready To Run vehicles are simple by design so they are user friendly and comfortable while using the control. These radio systems will come preset from the factory so you can instantly use your machine. But even with the simplified radio systems, there will still be a few things you should to know to get the most out of the radio. Simple things like servo reversing, trims or even how many batteries it takes. In this Radio System Cheat Sheet article we’ve gathered up all of the radios used in Axial ready to runs in one spot for your convenience and simply list out the important functions of your radio and how to use them. Think you’ll get hung up when making adjustments on your radio? This is certainly one blog post to  bookmark.



This radio packs a punch for a compact radio system. It is loaded with digital trim functions that make it a great radio for general hobby use. These digital trims can set advanced features like end point adjustments and dual rate, however you need to know how to use the radio properly to access these features. Here are a few tips to get your radio set up and Axial rig dialed in. TTX200 AA Batteries- First things first, you need to install four AA batteries into the radio for power. This is done by accessing the battery slots located at the bottom of the radio. Make certain to note the orientation of the batteries. A small diagram is molded into the back lower portion of the handle.

Binding- Your TTX200 radio and reciever will come linked with your RTR model, but in case something happens and the two components are not “speaking” to each other, here is how to link the them. Turn on your TTX200 and then connect power to the receiver by turning on your ESC. If the LED light in the receiver blinks once and stays on, it is linked. If not, you’ll need to use a small hex driver to depress the receiver Link button until the LED blinks and shuts off. Then you can let go. The LED should now come on constantly indicated the system is linked.

BINDING VIDEO TTX200 Trims Steering Trim/ Throttle Trim- Accessing the trim functions of the radio are an easy task. The buttons are located at the top of the radio and are clearly labeled. If an adjustment needs to be made to center the steering or adjust the neutral point of the transmitter, it can be done by depressing the marked trim. The center of the trim can be idendified by depressing the either button of the trim until you see the LED flash indicating the center point.

Steering Reversing- With the transmitter off, hold the top ST Trim button and power the radio on. The LED will flash once and then turn off. Release the button. The LED will then turn on to confirm the steering channel has been reversed.

Throttle Reversing- With the transmitter off, hold the top TH Trim button and power the radio on. The LED will flash once and then turn off. Release the button. The LED will then turn on to confirm the throttle channel has been reversed.

Steering End Point Adjustment- To set the maximum limit of rotation for steering in both left and right direction, turn the radio on. Turn the wheel to full left direction and hold. Press the ST Trim buttons to increase or decrease the travel limits. Follow the same procedure to then set the right turn limits.



The Tactic TTX300 comes with a number of Axial ready to run models and is a radio many seasoned RC enthusiasts trust. This radio has all the basic trim functions you’ll need for your model and more. This radio is a three channel radio which means you can even add additional functionality such as setting it up for winch control later on. But let’s not get too far ahead, let’s go over it’s functionality. TTX300 AA

Battery- The battery door slides out form the bottom of the radio. Insert four AA batteries to power the radio making certain the batteries are installed according to the diagram in the battery cradle. TTX300 on Binding- With the radio on, power up the receiver as well. Push and hold the receiver’s “BIND” button until its LED glows red and then turns off after about one second. Release the bind button. If the binding is successful, the LED will flash once and then remain on.


Steering Reversing Switch/ Throttle Reversing Switch- These switches are located on the back of the transmitter next to the on/off switch.

Steering Reversing Switch- Use this switch to correct the direction of the steering servo. Remember when the vehicle is pointing away from you, steering the transmitter to the right should turn the wheels to the right and vice-versa for left.

Throttle Reversing Switch- Use this switch to correct the direction of movement of the vehicle when the transmitters throttle trigger is moved. Remember forward movement is achieved when the trigger is pulled towards the transmitters grip and away for reverse. TTX300 Trims

Steering End Point 1. Enter programming mode. 2. LEFT EPA: Turn wheel full counterclockwise, use 3rd channel push buttons to adjust. 3. RIGHT EPA: Turn wheel full clockwise, use 3rd channel push buttons to adjust.

Throttle End Point 1. Enter programming mode. 2. Throttle EPA: Pull trigger to the full throttle position, use 3rd channel push buttons to adjust. 3. Brake EPA: Push trigger to the full brake position, use 3rd channel push buttons to adjust.

EPA VIDEO Channel 3 – Multi-Position- The TTX300 3rd channel can be programmed to function as 2 position, 3 position, 4 position or proportional control switch. Selecting each position and end points for each position are performed simultaneously. The default position of CH3 is 2 position. To change the function of CH3, follow these steps:

1. Enter programming mode: Press and hold the top push button, power ON transmitter. Continue to hold until the LED flashes five times. Release the top push button.

2. Use CH3 push buttons to adjust CH3 accessory/servo to desired 1st position. Turn steering wheel clockwise (right) to confirm position1. The LED will flash one time to confirm position 1 has been saved. Note: Press and holding CH3 push buttons will adjust rapidly. Press and release will finely adjust positions. First use CH3 buttons to set. Then turn wheel clockwise to confirm.

3. Use CH3 push buttons to adjust CH3 accessory/servo to desired 2nd position. Turn steering wheel clockwise (right) to confirm position 2. The LED will flash two times to confirm position 2 has been saved. If programming for two position switch, skip to step 6. Otherwise, proceed to step 5 to program 3rd or 4th position.

4. If programming as 3 or 4 position switch, follow the procedures in steps 2 and 3 and select additional positions (3 and/or 4). Turn steering wheel clockwise (right) to confirm each individual position. The LED will flash in relation to the position that is being saved. Three flashes is 3rd position, 4 flashes is 4th position. Proceed to step 6 when programming as 3 or 4 position switch has been completed.

5. To program CH3 as proportional, enter programming mode and select desired position 1 as listed in Step 2 above. Use CH3 push buttons to adjust to desired end point and turn steering wheel clockwise four times. The LED will flash five times to confirm the position has been saved.

6. After programming of CH3 is completed, turn off transmitter to save settings.

Reverse- Press and hold the bottom push button and power ON transmitter. The LED will flash one time. After 3 seconds, the LED will flash two times when performed correctly. Release the bottom push button.



The Axial AX-3 Transmitter came with many early Axial kits. Current Axial kits come with the Tactic brand transmitters. However the AX-3 is still used by many drivers today. If you have a model equipped with this radio system, here some usage notes and the details for making adjustments.


Battery- The AX3 requires four AA batteries for power. To access the battery cradle, slide the battery door out and insert the batteries. Be aware of the polarity as indicated by the positive and negative moldings in the cradle. AX3 Trims

Steering Reversing Switch- This switch is located under the control cover. Use this switch to correct the direction of the steering servo. Remember when the vehicle is pointing away from you, steering the transmitter to the right should turn the wheels to the right and vice-versa for left.

Throttle Reversing Switch- This switch is located under the control cover. Use this switch to correct the direction of movement of the vehicle when the transmitters throttle trigger is moved. Remember forward movement is achieved when the trigger is pulled towards the transmitters grip and away for reverse.

Steering Trim- Use the steering trim dial to fine tune your vehicles steering. When the steering wheel is in the neutral position, your vehicle should track straight. If it does not, adjust the trim until the vehicle drives in a straight line.

Throttle Trim- If the vehicle is rolling forward while the trigger is in the neutral position, adjust the trottle trim until the vehicle is at a standstill at neutral.

Steering Dual Rate- This knob adjusts the amount of steering throw equally for both left and right. If you have too much steering, dial the Dual Rate down. If you have too little steering, turn the Dual Rate up.


Binding- 1. Make sure the transmitter and ESC are off. 2. Plug the Bind plug included with your Axial Racing vehicle in the receiver’s third port (labeled “CH3) 3. Turn on speed control. The receiver’s status LED will blink. The blinking indicates the AR-3 is in Bind mode. 4. Open transmitter’s cover located on the top of the case. 5. Using the included pin-shaped tool, press and hold Bind button on the AX-3 transmitter 6. Turn on the AX-3 transmitter. 7. When blinking stops on the AR-3 receiver, remove Bind plug from receiver.


Antenna- This particular radio system has a folding antenna that neatly folds down onto the radio when not in use. However when it is in use, it is best to position the antenna up for maximum radio range. Don’t skip this step when running.


ON/ OFF SWITCH- The radio should always be turned on first (before the vehicle) and off last.

STEERING- When the wheel on the radio is facing you, turning it to the right should result in the vehicle steering to the right when it is pointing away from you. Steering the wheel to the left should turn the vehicle left.

THROTTLE- Forward movement is achieved when the trigger is pulled towards the transmitters grip and away for reverse.

RECEIVER CONNECTIONS- If you have removed the servo and ESC plugs from the receiver, remember to reinstall them in the correct slots. The steering servo is always plugged into channel 1 and the ESC is always plugged into channel 2.

HemiStorm’s Custom 2017 SCX10 II Jeep Wrangler Unlimited CRC


If you’ve spent any time at all on Youtube perusing the endless uploads of radio control videos, you’ve most likely stumbled upon a video or two or more from the Hemistorm RC channel. The man behind Hemistorm, Chris De Graaf is truly passionate about the radio control hobby. His channel has skyrocketed in popularity thanks to his unique model builds, enthusiasm, awesome action clips and unfiltered commentary. Hemistorm is always on point with his RC reviews and took a bit of a different direction when the AX90060 SCX10 II™ 2017 Jeep® Wrangler Unlimited CRC landed on his workbench. First he did the somewhat standard overview approach video, but what he did in his next video, not many saw coming. He started customizing the rig to suit his style before it even touched dirt! Photos and video were posted online and many Axial fans went wild over the customization. Best part was, the modifications cost less than $50. This shows that with a little creativity, you can bring your Axial model to the next level in style without breaking the bank. We caught up with Hemistorm and convinced him to send some detail photos of the build while it was in progress. Check out how easy it is to customize your machine and we hope it inspires you to start a custom project of your own.

Axial Wrangler Hemistorm 4

So how did Hemistorm create his custom rig? Most of the custom work was done with just one tool; a hobby knife. Hemistorm, carefully planned out the customization, trying to take into account how a real roof looks on a JK and used a marker to trace out his cut lines.

Axial Wrangler Hemistorm 2

After he was confident of the areas to cut, he simply scored the body with the hobby knife multiple times and “snapped” the Lexan pieces apart. A section of the roof and rear glass sections were completely removed.

Axial Wrangler Hemistorm 8

Next it was time to test fit the rear cap in its new location. A few tweaks needed to be made for a better fit. A narrow triangle of lexan was removed from the rear cap for a better fit.

Axial Wrangler Hemistorm 6

Once the cap was set into place, Hemistorm turned his attention to filling in the rear section with a spare tire and a deck. To fill in the space, he used the rear section of a Pro-Line Cherokee interior set.

Axial Wrangler Hemistorm 1

After the deck was set, something was still missing. Hemistorm then did what many do, see what you have on hand to give your machine a custom look. He grabbed the cage from his Axial Dingo and cut a section off to act as a rear cage. A little bit of drilling, custom mounting and the end result is a cool custom look.

Axial Wrangler Hemistorm 3

Finally when the custom fitting was complete, Hemi moved onto the finishing work, adding vents to the hood, painting the roof, painting graphics on the sides, painting the deck and adding some scale accessories. The end result is a unique AX90060 rig that will turn heads on the trails.


Get all the details on this build from Hemistorm as he goes through the process of creating his custom Jeep Wrangler Unlimited CRC Edition SCX10 II.


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