AXIALFEST 2019 – JULY 24-27, DONNER SKI RANCH

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WHAT: AXIALFEST 2019
WHEN: Jul 24 at 12 PM – Jul 27 at 8 PM PDT
WHERE: Donner Ski Ranch, 19320 Donner Pass Rd, Norden, California 95724

Only online registration attendees receive the event t-shirt and driver bag! Online registration ends May 31st, 2019 at 12:00pm.

On-site registration ends July 27, 2019 at 10am.

ALL AXIALFEST ATTENDEES MUST COMPLETE AND SIGN A WAIVER. Please download and print the waiver, fill out the necessary information, and bring the waiver to Axialfest to hand over at check in.

Download the waiver here: 2019 AXIALFEST WAIVER

OFFICIAL INFORMATION:
https://www.facebook.com/events/619638131798137/

TICKETS AND ADDITIONAL INFORMATION: EVENTBRITE

CLASS RULES

RR1: Rock Race 10-Under Kids Class – 1.9 & 2.2 Combined
RR2: Rock Race 11-15 Kids Class – 1.9 & 2.2 Combined
Both of the above classes – follow these rules:
Rule #1: Must display the mandatory Tech Sticker & wristband at start line.
Rule #2: Eligible Chassis: AX10, SCX10, Yeti, Wraith, Bomber. Chassis can be modified, but must retain a portion of the original chassis. No aftermarket tube chassis or aftermarket frame rails. (SCX10’s with aftermarket frame rails can compete in the RR5/RR6 Rock Race Open Classes.
Rule #3: Open motor choice.
Rule #4: Axial transmission or an aftermarket transmission housing using Axial gear format.
Rule #5: Axial axles or any aftermarket axle using Axial ring & pinion sized gearing.
No restrictions for the following items:
• Tires & Wheels
• Suspension links
• C-hubs
• Steering knuckles
• Driveshafts

RR3: Rock Race Factory 1.9 SCX10 Class
Rule #1: Must display the mandatory Tech Sticker & wristband at start line.
Rule #2: Eligible Chassis: Any stock based 1.9 Axial chassis.
No aftermarket tube chassis or aftermarket frame rails. (SCX10’s with aftermarket frame rails can compete in the RR5 Rock Race 1.9 Open Class. See RR5 Class notes below).
Rule #3: Must be solid axle front and rear, retain Stock AR44 Axles or AX10 Axle Housings
Rule #4: Brushed motor limited to nothing under 20 turn.
Rule #5: 1.9” wheels only.
Rule #6: Axial transmission or an aftermarket transmission housing using Axial gear format.
Rule #7: 3S Battery Max
No restrictions for the following items:
• Tires
• Suspension links
• C-hubs
• Steering knuckles
• Driveshafts

RR4: Rock Race Factory 2.2 Class
Rule #1: Must display the mandatory Tech Sticker & wristband at start line.
Rule #2: Eligible chassis: RR10 Bomber, Wraith, Yeti and EXO. No aftermarket tube chassis or aftermarket frame rails.
Rule #3: Must retain factory Plastic solid axles.
Rule #4: Axial transmission or an aftermarket transmission housing using Axial gear format.
Rule #5: Brushed motor limited to nothing under 20 turn.
Rule #6: 3S Battery Limit.
Rule #7: Must use 2.2 size wheels (EXO only exception with 2.2/3.0” wheel)
No restrictions for the following items:
• Suspension links
• Driveshafts
• ESC Brand
• Tires

RR5: Rock Race 1.9 SCX10 Open Class
Rule #1: Must display the mandatory Tech Sticker & wristband at start line.
Rule #2: Eligible Chassis: Any SCX10 Chassis (modified or aftermarket chassis ok).
Rule #3: Axial axles or any aftermarket axle using Axial Ring and pinion gearing.
Rule #4: Axial transmission or an aftermarket transmission housing using Axial gear format.
Rule #5: 1.9” wheels only.
No restrictions for the following items:
• Tires
• Suspension links
• C-hubs
• Steering knuckles
• Driveshafts
• Motor/ESC

RR6: Rock Race 2.2 Open Class
Rule #1: Must display the mandatory Tech Sticker & wristband at start line.
Rule #2: Eligible Chassis: Must be 1/10th based; handmade tube chassis, custom frame rails, or Axial chassis.
Rule #3: Chassis must use a combination of Axial based independent suspension and/or axles.�(Independent Front Suspension / Fully Independent Suspension / Solid Front and Rear axles).
Rule #4: Axial transmission or an aftermarket transmission housing using Axial gear format.
Rule #5: NO center differential transmissions
Rule #6: NO 1/8th big-bore shocks
Rule #7: Axial axles or any aftermarket axle using Axial ring and pinion sized gearing.
Rule #8: 2.2 wheels only.
No restrictions for the following items:
• Motor
• Battery
• Tires
• Suspension links
• C-hubs
• Steering knuckles
• Driveshafts

ULTRA 5K ENDURO RULES – AXIALFEST2019 Sponsored by ALTRA RUNNING SHOES
Axial launched this program in 2016 in conjunction with ALTRA Running shoes. If vehicle speed and running through the woods appeals to you, this might be the class you seek. Axial will design a designated enduro course just for this class! This will be fast paced physical event. Physical endurance, quick reflexes and knowledge of your rig as well as your physical ability are key.
Must be 18 years+ of age to compete in this class.
You may wish to not participate as this is a physically demanding 5K endurance race.
THIS IS A TIMED EVENT!
NO TRANSPONDERS REQUIRED! Leaning on the roots of trail running, timing has evolved to a bib process. Each driver will be issued a large numbered bib to wear for the duration of the race and makes for a great addition to your wall art!
ALTRA ULTRA 5K ENDURO Men’s Class & Women’s Class Rules
Rule #01: Eligible chassis: Wraith, Yeti, Bomber, EXO, SCX10, AX10 (No Yeti XL’s). Chassis can be modified, but must retain a portion of the original chassis.
Rule #02: Must display the mandatory Tech Sticker & and show wristband at start.
Rule #03: No aftermarket tube chassis or aftermarket frame rails.
Rule #04: 2.2” wheels or 1.9” wheels
Rule #05a: May use metal axles
Rule #05b: Must use Yeti plastic a-arms if running Yeti chassis
Rule #6a option: Must retain the original Axial C-Channel frame (SCX10)
Rule #6b option: Must retain the original Axial plastic tube-chassis (AX10 / Wraith / Bomber / EXO / Yeti). Slight modifications may be made.
Rule #07: Axial transmission or an aftermarket transmission housing using Axial gear format.
Rule #08: Drink water with electrolytes and carry a hydration pack.
Rule #09: BE MENTALLY & PHYSICALLY PREPARED.
No restrictions for the following items:
• Suspension links
• C-hubs
• Steering knuckles
• Steering Links
• Driveshafts

TTC Rules (done by OD Tire size)
1. 0 – 4.2 tire size
2. 4.3 – 4.75 tire size
3. 4.8 – 5.4 tire size
4. 1.9 Wraith
5. UMG10

CONCOURS:
Daily Driver
D’raisin
Monster trucks
Trailer
12 and under
13 -18
Best Theme
Adventurist
Bomber
Best in show
SCX24

Axial hats are available on the Horizon Hobby website:

Axial Trucker Cap, Charcoal Black (AXIZ0019)
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Axial Flat Bill Cap, Black (AXIZ0020)
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AX90046 SCX10 II Jeep Cherokee Kit Build Series – Part 9

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Now it’s finally time to personalize your Cherokee; it’s time to paint it! Painting is a scarey process to some, but after reading this blog, you should be comfortable painting body shells for the rest of your RC future. Let’s just get right into it.

STEP 1
Axial SCX10 Body 3
First thing first, we need to wash the body. Use a mild dish detergent, warm water and a paper towel to wash the inside of the body. You want to get rid of any oils that may have gotten on the body during the molding process. You also want to get out any finger prints, dirt or dust the may have come in contact with the body too.

STEP 2
Axial SCX10 Body 4
Once the body is washed, use a lint free paper towel to dry it completely.

STEP 3
Axial SCX10 Body 5
Time to apply the supplied window mask. We like to “weed” off the excess mask just leaving the windows on the backing. Then cut out each window.

STEP 4
Axial SCX10 Body 6
Pull the mask off the backing, shift it and apply it back on the glossy paper backing. This will allow you to handle and position the mask on the window area for a perfect application without getting your fingerprints all over the mask. Your fingers could have oils that get on the mask adhesive making less sticky and paint could possibly bleed under the mask.

STEP 5
Axial SCX10 Body 8
Once the mask is applied, use the back of your finger nail to press on the edges. This will seal the mask adhesive to the body.

STEP 6
Axial SCX10 Body 7
Here is the body with the window masks applied. If you look close, you can see how the edges of the mask are well applied and there are no air bubbles that could lead to paint bleeds.

STEP 7
Axial SCX10 Body 9
Let’s paint! But wait. Make certain you shake the can well to mix the paint. It’s also a good idea to warm up the can first in a bowl of warm water which will make the paint spray in a finer mist. Now, when you are ready to paint. You’ll want the can to be 10-12 inches from the body. Start spraying outside the body and then cross the body. Stop spraying when the can is past the body. If you start and end inside the body, this can lead to drips or blobs of paint.

TIP
Axial SCX10 Body 10
Here is an example on where to start your spray and where to release or stop the spray. Your next pass should slightly overlap your last pass as you move up or down the body.

STEP 8
Axial SCX10 Body 11
You’ll want to spray in light coats. Heavy coats will mean runs. Here is two coats of paint with 20 minutes of dry time between.

STEP 9
Axial SCX10 Body 13
We’ve skipped ahead. Here are four coats applied to the body. To see if you’ve painted enough, hold the body up to a light. If you can see thin areas, concnetrate your next paint pass in that area.

STEP 10
Axial SCX10 Body 14
To give our body more of a scale look we want to paint the interior black. But black on white can bleed through a bit. To prevent that, we’re applying a few coats of silver. This will keep the white, white and prevent the black from altering the tint of the white.

STEP 11
Axial SCX10 Body 15
Now we can apply a few coats of black. When you look into the windows when it’s done, you won’t see a white interior.

STEP 12
Axial SCX10 Body 16
Want black fender flares? Here’s the trick. Using a hobby knife, very gently cut the overspray film on the outside of the body around the flares. Pull off the film on the flares.

STEP 13
Axial SCX10 Body 17
Again using the multiple coat method, spray the fender flares.

STEP 14
Axial SCX10 Body 18
Let’s start cutting out the body after it has had plenty of time to dry. Using a reamer, make four holes in the corners of the grille area. This will make nice round corners for the grille insert to fit into later.

STEP 15
Axial SCX10 Body 19
Next take your hobby knife and cut into the grille body lines connecting the tops of the circles at the ends. Then take lexan scissors and cut a big X connecting the circles on the inside. We’re going to snap out the excess grille area lexan.

STEP 16
Axial SCX10 Body 20
Here is a piece snapped out of the grille cutout. Snap out all four pieces.

STEP 17
Axial SCX10 Body 21
After the grille area is snapped out, proceed to cut off the rest of the excess body lexan using lexan scissors on the mold lines. You can also use the hobby knife method to score the body and snap off the lexan.

STEP 18
Axial SCX10 Body 22
With the body cut out, now you can remove the overspray film and masks. How good does that look?!

STEP 19
Axial SCX10 Body 23
Oh it’s getting good! Break out that sheet of decals and apply them to the body. You can use the shifted backing method mentioned above to position your decals before applying them.

STEP 20
Axial SCX10 Body 24
With the decals applied, you can now drill the holes for all of the body accessories. Follow the manual carefully on what size holes to drill where. You’ll see small dimples in the body which indicate where the holes need to be drilled.

STEP 21
Axial SCX10 Body 25
Install those accessories! Take special note of how the roof rack goes on and the door handles when looking at the manual.

Axial SCX10 Body 27
FINISHED
Your AX90046 SCX10 II Jeep Cherokee Kit is complete! Slap that body on the rig, install the body clips and head outside for some adventures! Remember to grab some photos along the way on the trail and share them to the Axial Racing social media pages. Use the hashtag #Axial #AxialRacing or #AxialAdventures so we can check out your work!
Axial SCX10 Body 26

 

AXIALFEST 2019 UPDATE!

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Axialfest 2019 UPDATE!

We are working around the clock to make Axialfest 2019 the best one yet! We have some incredible plans in the works, but we’ve hit a bump in the trail. As you are likely aware, our longtime home, the Cisco Grove Campground, is closed until further notice while undergoing a massive renovation and it looks like it won’t reopen until 2020.

Never fear! Axialfest will go on!

We are well underway in our search for a temporary home and will be making an announcement in early 2019 on the location, dates, and other details. We can’t wait to see you at Axialfest 2019!

AX90046 SCX10 II Jeep Cherokee Kit Build Series – Part 8

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We’re getting very close to finishing the AX90046  build series and by the end of this particular blog, you should be able to drive your truck if you’ve been following this series as you build. Here some of the final electronic and detail peices will be added to the rig. Time to work.

Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 1

STEP 1

Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 2

Let’s get the electronics mounted to the chassis. In the kit you find servo tape to help install your purchased electronics. Before applying the tape, make certain the surfaces are free and clean of dirt and oil. Use motor spray or rubbing alcohol and a paper towel to clean the surfaces. Cut pieces of tape to install the ESC. Make sure you have enough tape left over for the switch and the receiver.

STEP 2

Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 3

Stick you ESC to the side plates. The manual instructs you to place the ESC behind the radio box. We’ve decided to switch it up and place it on the right side plate since we won’t be using the 2-speed conversion in this kit. Stick the receiver into the radio box too.

STEP 3

Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 4

Next route the wires through the rubber radio box end seal. Place the wires in the seal and then slip it into the box. Apply a little grease here if the seal doesn’t slide in. Next place the lid seal into the radio box lid and screw it to the top of the box.

STEP 4

Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 5

Next, a little modeling work. The light lenses need to be placed into the bumpers. Its a good idea to place a small dab of clear modeling cement on the lens pins to help keep them secure in the bumper.

STEP 5

Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 6

Using the screw pins, secure the bumpers to the mount. Here you can also slip the trailer hitch in and secure it. If you think you’re going to tackle some serious approach angles, you might want to leave the trailer hitch off.

Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 7

STEP 6

Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 8

The body posts are placed into the shock towers next and secured with screw pins. Take note of what holes the screw pins go in so your body sits properly on the chassis.

STEP 7

Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 9

The sliders get bolted to the side plates next. Note these are adjustable by sliding them in and out depending on what body you have.

STEP 8

Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 10

Now the tricky part. Glueing up tires! You need to spend the time and do this step properly so your tires don’t come off on the trail. Make sure to use a good CA glue too. We suggest Dynamite Thin CA. Take a look at this blog if you need help with the glueing process HERE

STEP 9

Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 11

After the tires are glued and dry, install your hexes to the axles. It’s a good idea to add a little bit of threadlock to the hex retaining set-screw. Bolt the wheels on with the supplied lock nuts followed by the covers.

FINISHED

Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 12

We didn’t wire up our demo truck, but at this point wire up your speed controller if necessary and give your new rig a test run… you know, because you have to play ASAP! Body painting and finishing is up next. See you in the next blog.

 

AX90046 SCX10 II Jeep Cherokee Kit Build Series – Part 7

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Our AX90046  build series continues and up until now, it’s been assembling sections of the rig, but when we’ve finished, it still looks like a pile of parts. Well, in this blog entry, the build is really going to start to take shape. Here we’re going to assembly the chassis and start bolting on all of those sections from the previous steps. Let’s make this pile of parts look like a rig!

STEP 1
Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 2
First we turn our attention to the battery tray. The Velcro strap needs to slipped into the tray with the fuzzy side facing out. This will allow the hook of the velcro to secure to the loop. While the tray is out, you should install the battery position tabs in the tray. This is often left out, but if all of your packs are the same, its a good idea to use these so your battery doesn’t shift.

STEP 2
Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 3
Next up, install the servo mount and brackets. No real tips here, just make sure you don’t overtighten the screws and strip out any holes.

STEP 3
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The servo goes in next with the splined output facing forward. Don’t forget to use the sire wire security strap/ tabs which makes wire routing much cleaner.

STEP 4
Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 5
The front tower goes on next. The tower with the panhard bar mount is used here. Pay extra attention to the size of the hardware used.

STEP 5
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Lots going on in this step. Start by installing the side tray on the chassis, but before doing so, take special note that the servo lead wire is run between the tray and frame rail for a nice clean look. The screws for the tray also secure the transmission to the frame rails. After the tray is in, install the correct rear shock tower and then the cross members. Pay attention to the frame holes the tower is postioned in. This corresonds with the proper wheelbase for this build.

STEP 6
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Now the opposite side frame rail is installed. Start securing the rail by screwing the shock tower into position.

STEP 7
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The tray goes into position next. The hardware will secure the tray to the frame and in turn secure the transmission.

STEP 8
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Time to button up the rest of the chassis assembly by installing the  front tower and front bumper mount screws.

STEP 9
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The assembly is really getting interesting now! Take your front axle and link assembly and start attaching it to the chassis by inserting the center Wild Boar Driveshaft to the axle output and install the retaining screw-pin. With the driveshaft in place, you can screw the links to the chassis.

STEP 10
Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 11
Next, the shocks are installed onto the shock towers and lower brackets. Make sure you use the front shock assemblies here. Don’t overtighten the shock mounting screws. Overtightening can pinch the plastic ball studs.

STEP 11
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Here is a tricky part. Installing the servo horn. If you went ahead and screwed the panhard bar to the mount, it might be easier to get the horn onto the servo by removing the panhard link. With it out of the way, install the servo arm on the steering link and secure the horn to the servo. We know you already centered your servo before installing it… right?

STEP 12
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Just like the front, the rear axle and link assembly gets bolted to the frame. Remember to install the driveshaft first before attaching the links to the chassis.

STEP 13
Axial SCX10 Chassis Build 14
Bolt the rear shocks to the towers and axle brackets.

FINISHED

SCX Chassis

Now it’s starting to look like an SCX10II.

AX90046 SCX10 II Jeep Cherokee Kit Build Series – Part 6

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Assembling the Wild Boar Driveshafts is a fairly simple task and should only take you a few minutes to complete. There are however a few tips we’re going to throw in to make sure the parts work well for those long treks on the trail. Ready, set, build!

TOOLS NEEDED
2mm Hex Driver
Side cutters
Supplied grease and threadlock also required

STEP 1
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Start by cutting the driveshaft parts from the parts trees. The trees have various size driveshaft parts on them so reference the manual to see exactly which parts you need.

STEP 2
Axial SCX WB Driveshafts 2
Here we start to assemble the driveshafts and it is extremely important to add thread lock to the screws before inserting them into the driveshaft and screwing it into the universal mounting boss.

STEP 3
Axial SCX WB Driveshafts 3
After the end is screwed into the driveshaft, place a small dab of grease on the hex driver and use it to coat the inside of the driveshaft end.

STEP 4
Axial SCX WB Driveshafts 4
With the ends greased, you can slip the universal barrels into the ends.

STEP 5
Axial SCX WB Driveshafts 5
Slip the drive cup over the end and line-up the cross-pin holes. Once the holes are lined up, you can insert the pins.

STEP 6
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To secure the pins in place, you’ll simply need to slide the plastic sleeve over the cups. Set-screws will hold these in place later.

STEP 7
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Assemble the rest of the driveshaft by inserting the appropriate slider into the Wild Boar shafts.

STEP 8
Axial SCX WB Driveshafts 8
Now the shafts are attached to the transmission output shafts. Here you’ll use the set-screw pins to secure the drive cups to the output shaft. You may use a dab of threadlock on the set-screws for extra security. Note, if the holes for the drive cup do not line up with the shaft, you may have installed the shaft incorrectly, go back and rebuild the gearcase if necessary.

STEP 9
Axial SCX WB Driveshafts 9
The skidplate is up next for installation. This is simple, secure it to the transmission case with the two provided flathead allen screws.

STEP 10
Axial SCX WB Driveshafts 10
The transmission mounts are installed next. Pay close attention to the direction in which they are installed. Snug the two buttonhead screws that secure the mounts.

FINISHED
Axial SCX WB Driveshafts 11
With several sections of the manual complete, the next steps will really start turning parts into an actual rig. Make sure you check back for the next part of our kit build!

AX90046 SCX10 II Jeep Cherokee Kit Build Series – Part 5

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We’re getting into some fun territory here on our SCX10 Jeep Cherokee Kit Build, moving on to the transmission assembly. The build is fairly straight forward with a few notes that you need to know in order to build this important part of the vehicle properly. You’ll only need a few tools here such as a 2mm hex driver, needle nose pliers and the kit box wrench. Let’s build!

STEP 1
Axial SCX Transmission2
First up is building the gearshafts which is faily simple unless you jumped right into putting parts together and not reading the manual. Note, there are two bearing sizes in the parts bag. The larger bearings are used in this step. Also there are two types of cross pins used to support the gears. You’ll need to use the larger pins here. And finally make sure you use the correct spacer tubes on the shafts shown here. Slide the parts together as shown.

STEP 2
Axial SCX Transmission3
Now we can slip the assembled shafts into the transmission half. Before doing so, coat the gears in grease.

STEP 3
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Slip the other half of the transmission case on the shafts and give them a little wiggle to help seat the bearings in the case. Screw the halves together and install the transmission support post.

STEP 4
Axial SCX Transmission5
The transfer case is assembled next. Push the bearings into the case first.

STEP 5
Axial SCX Transmission6
This is somewhat of a tricky step. You’ll want to start by pushing the transfer case half on to the transmission over the output shaft. Then you’ll need to use your pliers to install the small cross-pin that keys to the gear. Once that is done, you can install the rest of the gears, shafts and pins. Then place the outside transmission half on and bolt it together with the supplied hardware.

STEP 6
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The motorplate and back half of the gearcover are up next. These are simply pressed together and bolted onto the transmission case with three screws.

STEP 7
Axial SCX Transmission8
The slipper assembly gets a few notes too. Start by washing your hands. You don’t want greasy fingers on the pads. Next remove the white paper from the pad revealing the adhesive. Carefully place the pad into the keyed spur gear. Do this for both sides. Now slip a metal plate on the top shaft, followed by the spur gear bushing, the spur and then the second metal plate. Follow this with the spring and retaining nut. Tighten the retaining nut until you see 2-3 threads of the top shaft. This is a good starting point until you adjust the slipper later.

STEP 8
Axial SCX Transmission9
Finalize the slipper assembly by installing the spring and retaining nut. Tighten the retaining nut until you see 2-3 threads of the top shaft. This is a good starting point until you adjust the slipper later.

STEP 9
Axial SCX Transmission10
Now is the right time to install your motor and pinion gear. There is a slot in the side of the gear cover that will allow you to tighten the pinion gear with your 2mm hex driver. Take your time to set the gear lash properly so it doesn’t bind, nor is too loose.

STEP 10
Axial SCX Transmission11
Button up this transmission build by installing the gear cover on the front. Just be sure to carefully slide it on so the tab covers the slot where your hex driver was used to install the pinion.

AX90046 SCX10 II Jeep Cherokee Kit Build Series – Part 4

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We’re moving into a tricky area of our SCX10 II Build, the shocks. The AX90046  comes with the licensed Icon Vehicle Dynamics aluminum body oil filled coil-over shocks (AX30103) which are the preferred shocks for serious off-roaders. The shocks go together nice and smooth and offer excellent performance on the trail. Of course we do have a few tips to pass along to help you with building them so let’s get right into it.

GET READY
Axial SCX Icon Shocks 1
Like we’ve suggested in previous posts, it’s a great idea to get all the parts together that you’ll need to build this part of the kit. For tools you’ll need a pair of side-cutters, long nose pliers and we suggest TLR shock shaft pliers to hold the shafts. You can find TLR pliers HERE.

STEP 1
Axial SCX Icon Shocks 2
First up, we need to install the spring pre-load nut on the shocks. Using side-cutters, cut the nut off the tree and screw it onto the shock with the flange side facing the logos. Screw the nut on several threads so the shock caps can be installed later.

STEP 2
Axial SCX Icon Shocks 3
Oh, this is a fun job! Installing the e-clips on the shock shafts, watch out, they could go flying if you are not careful! With your needle nose pliers, snap the e-clip into the lower slot on the top of the shock shaft. Then slide your piston over the shaft and secure the top with another e-clip. Take your time here so you don’t lose any clips or damage the piston with the pliers.

STEP 4
Axial SCX Icon Shocks 4
Here is a tip you may not know. Before installing the o-rings in the shock, place them in a plastic bag from the kit followed by a few drops of shock oil and make sure they’re coated. This helps the shock feel smoother when completed.

STEP 5
Axial SCX Icon Shocks 5
Why are we showing you the shock o-ring spacers in a stand-alone photo? It is critical to cut the spacers from the tree without any extra plastic flashing. Extra plastic here could cause unwanted friction in the shock.

STEP 6
Axial SCX Icon Shocks 6
It’s time to install the shock seals into the bodies. Slip one o-ring into the base of the shocks, followed by the plastic spacer, then another o-ring followed by the lower shock cap. Tighten the lower cap firmly. After the seals are assembled, place a dot of oil on the shock shaft threads and slips the shafts into the shock bodies.

STEP 7
Axial SCX Icon Shocks 7
The lower shock ends need to be screwed onto the shock shafts. Do not use knurled pliers to hold the shaft, this could damage the shaft which will tear the o-ring seals. We suggest using shock shaft pliers to hold the shafts while installing the ends. Then pop the pivot balls into the shock ends.

STEP 8
Axial SCX Icon Shocks 8
You’ll need to prep the top shock cap before you fill your shocks with oil. These Icon replica shocks come with faux reservoirs for scale style. You’ll need to place the Icon logo on the reservoirs and then screw them to the shock caps. You’ll also need to slip an o-ring seal into the top of the cap. Watch, the o-ring may fall out. If this happens, placing a drop of oil in the cap can help keep it in place.

STEP 9
Axial SCX Icon Shocks 10
Fill the shock bodies with oil. After you fill the shock with oil almost to the top, take the shock shaft and slowly cycle it up and down. This will release any unwanted air.

STEP 10
Axial SCX Icon Shocks 11
Before screwing on the shock cap, push the shock shaft almost all the way up to the top.

STEP 11
Axial SCX Icon Shocks 12
With the shock shaft at the top, screw the shock cap onto the body and wipe off any excess oil with a paper tower. When the shock is assembled, the shock shaft should be able to be pushed all the way up to the top. If you have a large gap of shock shaft showing, you will have to bleed out excess oil. To do so, loosen the cap a few turns and push the shaft up. Oil should bleed out. Once a little oil bleeds out, retighten the cap and try it again. Keep bleeding the shock until the shaft reaches the top.

STEP 12
Axial SCX Icon Shocks 13
We’re getting close to wrapping up these shocks! Slide the springs over the shock bodies and slip on the shock perch. Snap an additional pivot ball into the shock caps.

FINISHED
Axial SCX Icon Shocks 14
Here’s how your shocks should look once completed. Note that there are front and rear springs so place them on the vehicle later accordingly.

Customize Your AR44’s In Minutes

Customize_AR44
One of the best parts to owning an Axial SCX10 II is your ability to customize it to make it your own. There are plenty of performance and accessory parts to choose from and in this blog we’re going to show you how to customize your SCX10 II’s AR44 axles. This accessory swap should only take you minutes to perform and cost you under $10 for each axle. Here’s what you need to know.

PARTS NEEDED
Axial Black Axle Options 2
AR44 Black Differential Cover and Link Mounts- AX31437 (Quantity Needed: 2)

TOOLS NEEDED
Axial Black Axle Options 1
2mm Hex Driver

STEP 1
Axial Black Axle Options 3
Swapping out the differential cover is simple and can even be done while the axle is on the truck if you have a ball head 2mm hex driver. You’ll want to locate the four diff cover screw heads on the pinion out-put side of the axle and unscrew all four.

STEP 2
Axial Black Axle Options 4
After removing the four cover screws, pull the differential cover off, it’s in there pretty tight, so use some force to pull it from the axle housing.

STEP 3
Axial Black Axle Options 5
Break or cut the new black diff cover off of the parts tree in slip it into the axle. Make sure the indent on the cover faces the bevel gear side of the axle. Screw the four retaining screws back in and tighten them snug. This is how the axle looks with a black cover and red link mounts, a cool custom option.

STEP 4
Axial Black Axle Options 6
Want to swap the link mounts out too? First you’ll need to remove the suspension links and shocks from the mount. Then unscrew the mounts from the axle as shown above.

STEP 5
Axial Black Axle Options 7
Once you’ve installed the red mounts, break the black mounts from the parts tree and install them on the axle the where the red mounts were, paying close attention to how the mount is positioned. The link mount with extra support faces the bottom. This is how an all-black AR44 Axle looks.

FINISHED
Axial Black Axle Options 8
If you removed your axles from your rig, now is the time to reinstall them. Above is another option we wanted to show you. This axle is set up with black link mounts and a red diff cover. Build your axle the way you want it for a custom look!

AX90046 SCX10 II Jeep Cherokee Kit Build Series – Part 3

AX90046SCX10II_JeepCherokeeKit_Build_Series_Part3
Up next in the build series is assembling the links. Probably one of the best parts of the build, am I right guys?! Well, it might not be everyone’s favorite because it is some repetitive work, but what brightens up this particular job is that this kit comes with aluminum links which is preferred over composite links. This is some simple work but there are a few tips and tricks we can pass along.

TOOLS NEEDED
2.0mm hex driver
Side cutters

STEP 1
Axial Kit Build1
As always its best to gather the parts bags you’ll need and run through the steps in the manual quickly to help identify any details that require extra attention.

STEP 2
Axial Kit Build2
A little tip we like to pass along is to arrange the aluminum link tubes in size order so you identify them a bit easier as you go through the build steps.

STEP 3
Axial Kit Build3
Find the aluminum tubes used for the first link assembly. If you’re unsure of what size tube to use, you can place it on the 1:1 drawing to find the correct size.

STEP 4
Axial Kit Build4
Take a close look at the instructions to identify what rod ends you’ll need. There are a number of styles, some on angles and some are straight. You want to make sure the part number in the manual matches the rod end you use or there could be some suspension bind if you use the incorrect rod ends.

STEP 5
Axial Kit Build5
Using the 2mm hex driver, screw the set screws into the rod end until you just feel them bottom out.

STEP 6
Axial Kit Build6
Screw the rod ends into the aluminum tubes. Make sure the final locations of the ends match the illustrations in the manual.

STEP 7
Axial Kit Build7
Axial Kit Build8
Next you’ll need to insert the pivot balls into the rod ends. Note, the pivot balls have a large flanged end and a narrow end. Note the way they are installed as illustrated in the manual. Some links have both flanges face the same side while other links have an off-set installation.

STEP 8
Axial Kit Build9
The steering links and pan hard link should now be assembled. You can install them on the axle and steering knuckle with the hardware as indicated in the manual. Do not overtighten the screws. The pivot balls are plastic and can be crushed if you tighten the screws too much.

STEP 9
Axial Kit Build10
Next build the three links that will support the front axle and tie it to the chassis.

STEP 10
Axial Kit Build11
Screw the three links to the front axle, making sure the rod ends are facing the correct way as indicated by the illustrations.

STEP 11
Axial Kit Build12
By now you should have a good understanding of how the links go together. Assemble the four remaining rear links and attach them to the rear axle.

FINISHED
Axial Kit Build14
The link assembly is complete! If you used a hand tool, by now your wrist should be tires and your fingers sore from holding onto the rod ends. Congratulations you’re fitting nicely into the model community. Keep an eye out for the next steps of our build series where we’ll get into building the shocks.

Note: This How To Can Also be Used For Link Sets:
SCX10 II Front Links Set – AX31465
SCX10 II Rear Links Set – AX31466