AX90046 SCX10 II Jeep Cherokee Kit Build Series – Part 1

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The debate over which style of RC kit is better, ready to run or build kit, may never be resolved, but one thing is for sure, Axial serves up both styles for either type that suits your style. Since Axial builds a lot of projects, the team tends to lean towards a kit to build and well there are some exciting build projects in the works. So while we’re building up a new AX90046 SCX10 II™ 2000 Jeep® Cherokee 1/10th Scale Electric 4WD Kit to use as the base for a build, we charged up the camera to take some pictures along the way of a stock kit build. If you have any questions about building your SCX10 II kit, you’ll be able to reference this build series to get you through any steps. In the first part of this series, we’re going to go over the basics of the kit itself and things you’ll need for the perfect build.

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When you get your kit, the first thing you should do is? Anybody? Empty the box and roll around in the Axial goodness? No that’s just too weird man. The first step is to go through the contents and familiarize yourself with what’s in the box.

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Put your hand on the body, flip the box over and viola! The kit contents all packed up in an XJ shell.

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Here’s the bag you should get into first. The bag with the manual.

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If it’s your first time building a kit, you should read through the manual first. Look at what you need. Take note of hardware sizes. Look at the types of parts. What parts bags go with what steps. A run through ahead of time will minimize miss steps or something else that may throw your build off track.

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When going through the steps, take out some of the parts bags so you know what to look for when you get to that particular step later.

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The need to open a new bag may come at any time.

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Sometimes it’s a good idea to lay out the parts bags in the order you’ll be assembling them.

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Wait! What are these green nubs and the religious item included in the kit? These green domes are course markers. They are put on the trail so you know where to drive your rig. If you get into competitions, you’ll see more of these on the trail. The silver tool is a cross-wrench that will service most hardware nuts on the truck.

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Now let’s get into what you need. With most kits, you’ll need electronics and you’ll need to pick these items up at your local hobby retail store or your favorite online business; Horizon Hobby has all of the gear shown above. For the SCX10 II Kit, you’ll need a radio with receiver, a steering servo, motor, speed control, battery, charger and possible connectors for your ESC.

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Next up on the you’ll need list is tools. There are two examples above. The top is a bit more expensive tool set-up while the set below is a less expensive set that will get the job done too. You’ll need cutters, pleirs, a hobby knife, scissors, hex drivers and even nut drivers to complete the assembly of your kit. Here are some links to the tools above:
Dynamite Metric Hex Driver Set- DYNT2030
Dynamite Nut Driver Set- DYNT2010
Dynamite Start-up Tool Set- DYN2835

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Finally the chemicals you’ll need. Some CA glue such as the thin adhesive shown here from Dynamite for the tires and some paint for the body. Window masks are included with the kit, but if you want to spray your body more than one color, you may need some masking tape to use for your designs.

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No seriously; did you read the manual? Do it, it helps. That wraps it up for the introduction of this build series. Make sure you follow the build each week while we get this truck ready for off-road action.

 

 

How To: Install the AXI31555 Blazer Hard Top

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Axial’s AX90058 SCX10 II 1969 Chevrolet Blazer is certainly one good-looking ride, but the addition of the AXI31555 Hard Top is sure to catch the attention of many Blazer fans. In this article, we show you a step-by-step procedure on how to mount this cap. But, before we do, let’s go over some of the tools you’ll need to get the job done.

TOOLS NEEDED:
1. 1.5mm Hex Wrench
2. Scissors (specialty scissors for cutting polycarbonate plastic)
3. Reamer (for drilling holes)
4. Paint (for polycarbonate bodies)

LIST OF PARTS USED:
AX90058 Axial SCX10 II 1969 Chevrolet Blazer RTR
AXI31555 Axial Blazer Hard Top

STEP 1

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Before we build, let’s look at what comes in the AXI31555 Blazer Hard Top package. There’s the polycarbonate plastic shell, instruction sheet, window masks, sticker sheet and hardware bags. Easy enough, right?

STEP 2

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top A closer look at the instruction sheet. It also documents the opening rear window, a cool feature but more needed to get to the body clips!

STEP 3

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Window masks. I peeled off the excess to make it easier to see the actual window parts. Note the top and bottom are for the side windows, the center is for the rear window.

STEP 4

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Before you stick the window masks on, make sure you wash the Hard Top with soap and water. Dry it completely – you may even want to let it sit out for a little bit to air dry, just to be sure. Peel off the masks and stick them on. They don’t have to be perfect as we’ve included external decals, but you want to get them as close as possible.

STEP 5

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Paint whatever color you want; I did black since I figured it would match the Blazer body well.

STEP 6

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top After the Hard Top is done drying, cut it out, remove the window masks and the overspray film. Now, as an added detail, sprayed the outside of the Hard Top with a matte clear coat to soften up the shine. If you want to replicate this, DO NOT remove the overspray film. First, use a sharp blade (Xacto brand, Olfa, etc) and cut out around the windows, then remove the overspray film. If you don’t cut out the windows, you’ll clear coat them as well and you won’t be able to see through them.

STEP 7

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Using the hardware enclosed, attach the mounts to the Hard Top. Note that there are two different designs of mounts; you don’t want to mix these up when you install them. Read the instructions carefully.

STEP 8

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Assemble the swiveling tailgate mount…

STEP 9

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top …and attach it to the tailgate. You’ll need to notch the tailgate first; there are scribe marks to show you where to cut.

STEP 10

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Attach the tailgate assembly to the Hard Top.

STEP 11

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top The tailgate should swing freely. If not, you may need to trim the notches until it does.

STEP 12

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Here’s a quick inside look at the tailgate mounted to the Hard Top. You can also, at this time, attach the tailgate lift handle.

STEP 13

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Ream 4 small holes into the Blazer body; there are already dimples in place. Note that you only need to ream the front- and rear-most holes as shown.

STEP 14

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Set the Hard Top in place and attach with the supplied hardware. Set your completed Blazer down, step back and revel in your masterpiece!

Tips For Spray Painting Bodies

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A task simple for some can be daunting for others. Spray painting an RC bodies is one of those tasks. For those who have not painted a body before, you’ve found the right blog to read. We’re going to show you just how to paint your first body successfully. These are simple tips and tricks that will allow you to paint your body so when you’re finished, it looks like it came from the factory. Let’s get started.

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We’re going to paint these RR10 Bomber panels for an upcoming project so they will be the demo pieces for this blog. Before you get started, here are a few things you’ll need to have on hand to get the job done. First, you’ll need spray paint of course. Make certain it is a polycarbonate compatible spray paint. This type of paint will adhere itself to the Lexan. Other paints may not adhere and flake off as soon as you roll your rig over. You’ll also need some dish soap, paper towels, masking tape and some warm water.

STEP 1
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The first step is to wash your body or panels. When the body is molded at the factory, sometimes oils from the molds or even someone’s hands can get on the body. Using the dish soap, a paper towel and some warm water, wash the body well and rinse out all of the soap.

STEP 2
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Now use some more towels to dry the body. Do not leave any water on the body. Get into all the creases with the towel to get the water out or it will deflect the paint leaving fish-eye like marks.

STEP 3
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We’re getting close to spraying the paint. Before you do so, you’ll want to shake the can of paint for a few minutes to mix the contents as you would do with any can of paint. Now here’s an additional trick some painters don’t share. Run warm water over the can to help warm the contents. This will help pressurize the can and make the spray come out in a fine pattern to better coat the body.

TIP
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Another tip we have is to hold the body about 8-10 inches from the spray can. Spray too close and you can get drips or uneven spray patterns. Spraying farther away will help coat the body evenly.

STEP 4
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Now it’s time for your first coat. In one direction, either horizontally of vertically spray the body. Don’t spray the body directly. Start spraying and move the can across the body and stop spraying when the can has past the body. If you hold the can directly at the body and spray, you can’t just blobbing the paint in one spot. Now for the next pass, shift the can and repeat the process until the body has a very light first coat of paint. Set the body aside and let it dry; fifteen to twenty minutes is a good drying time.

STEP 5
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Time for the second coat. Basically repeat the steps above. Warm the can, note your spacing, start your spray before the body and stop after you’ve passed over the body. Hold the body up to some light to see how the coverage is. Here our second coat covered well on the right side, we’re going to make one or two more passes on the left side to even up the coverage and then set it aside to dry.

STEP 6
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Here is the interior of our bomber after the third coat. We still have some clear spots to fill in. To do this, we’ll get just a little closer with the can to get the paint into the hard to reach areas. If you are spraying flat panels, keep your distance and spray over the light areas.

TIP
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Some panels can be difficult to hold. Using some tape, stick it to the panel and make a small fold in the center to hold onto.

TIP
Axial Spray Paint Tip
Be aware that some colors may need to be backed by another color. Fluorescent colors typically need to be backed with white. Candy colors can be backed with white, silver, gold and sometimes even black. If your solid color still seems transparent, consider backing it with white or even a silver. Keep in mind that whatever color you use to back your paint may alter the main color. So if you spray black behind red, it may turn the red dark. It may be better to back red with a silver as if the red is too transparent, a white might make it look pink. Here’ we’re backing this white panel with silver to give it a more opaque look.

FINISHED
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There we have it, a perfectly painted interior for our Bomber. Don’t forget to pull the overspray film off of the Lexan before applying decals. The interior is now ready to be installed. We hope this simple spray painting tutorial helps you spray paint your first body shell. Make sure to check back often on the Axial Blog as we’ll get into more complex paint jobs in the future.

 

 

Axialfest 2018 Skeeno Report Part 3

Axialfest 2018 Skeeno Report Part 3

In Part 1 of the Axialfest 2018 Skeeno Report, I showed you the sights and sounds of Day 1, or Wednesday, at Axialfest 2018. In Part 2, I recapped my Thursday at Axialfest 2018 where I visited more vendors, saw more people trailing, checked out the Concours builds, and finished the day off with the CKRC Dollar Dash!

This is Part 3 of the Axialfest 2018 Skeeno Report.  In this edition, I will be running the Altra Ultra 5K, checking out more vendors and trails, monster trucking, parading, and finishing up with a nighttime trial run.  Come see what I saw on Friday at Axialfest 2018.

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My morning started off with Mista Tree cooking us breakfast, so I would be fueled up for the Altra Ultra 5K.

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Tree had the brilliant idea to reheat the sirloins and have a little steak and eggs for breakfast.  It was delicious.

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After fueling my belly, I was pumped and ready to run! My servo was upgraded after Axialfest 2017, so I was confident that I could finish this year.

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Looks like a pretty good crowd already, and it was only 7:30 a.m.

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Even Mr. Cru Jones looked a little sleepy, but he woke up and ran the Altra Ultra 5K, too. Hey, #47, that was my number last year.

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Two things I want, a new set of Lone Peaks and a 2018 Altra Ultra 5K FINISHER plaque.

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I noticed quite a few runner sporting gators. I took that to mean they were serious.

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Question: Should gators be color coordinated or mismatched to stand out? Asking for a friend.

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Mr. Hobby Wing aka Swanky Su aka Charlie Sue aka Charlie Suanka was ready to test out his new Hobby Wing brushless setup; totally programmable by Bluetooth, sweet!

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A little National Anthem before lighting the lipos!

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Ready to go.  I think there were 64 of us this year.  Are you running the Altra Ultra 5K next year?

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Mighty Mike T headed out WAY before me.

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That’s MTB legend Mike Bier, I mean Mark Weir, in the far lane.  He had prior commitments and couldn’t attend the whole time at Axialfest 2018, but he made sure he stopped by just to run the Altra Ultra 5K.

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It’s a bad sign when you have a mechanical before the first turn.  I hope they get it sorted and get back out there quickly.

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I didn’t do much running through the river bed.  All the rocks made footing a little sketchy and I didn’t want to risk a twisted ankle, so I settled for a quick walk. Also, it’s difficult to jog, drive, and take pictures all at the same time.

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That’s Half Link in the rear.  I tried to keep pace with him, but he eventually left me in his dust.

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The DWTS Crew set up a little fun log jump obstacle be their campsite. You could crawl it to the right or send it to the left.  Best believe I sent it every lap.  I wasn’t scurred.

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This hill was the Widowmaker.  It was steep and made you see stars by the time you got to the top, especially once you were over a mile in on your second and third laps.

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At least there was some relief after the climb in this downhill section.

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There’s that dang Half Link again.  I thought I was about to catch him here while straw hat man did some trail maintenance.

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You had to keep your ears open because there were logging trucks running.  You didn’t want to run out in front of one of those. Luckily, marshals were on the look out for you and let you know when it was safe to cross the road.

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Ben Thomas tried to catch me here in the old waterfall section.

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Since I wasn’t in contention to podium and was just out to have fun and finish, I decided to take a small detour and drive through the MyTrickRC highway.  Glad I didn’t get stuck on the broken bridge.

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Just as I was finishing the second climb on the Widowmaker, my daughter texted me.

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She reminded me to stay hydrated, and not die.

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Thanks, Skeeno Jr.  I took a moment to take a sip from my water pack.

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There’s Mr. Chris all awake and running wild.

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Hmm, clear dirt, should I play it safe and take the high line?

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No, SEND IT!

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My Tekin RX8 held up without an issue.  Are those waterproof?

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Wait, are those scale buildings on the Altra 5K course? I better stop for a picture.

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Last lap.  I stopped to admire my Bomber snaking through some various obstacles.  These Axial RR10 Bombers definitely work well.

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I did it! I finished! Thanks to Tristan Judkins for the photo. I ran the whole race with my phone in one hand and the controller in the other; those are the sacrifices I make to bring you the Skeeno Blog.

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Heck ya! Got my plaque.  That’s going on the wall of fame in my garage.

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I knocked almost 20 minutes off my time for the last 5K I ran, and the course was really more like a 6.3K.

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And I got a Finishing Selfie with Mike Bier!

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The 2018 Altra 6.3K finishers! Who won?  I guess I’ll have to wait for the awards ceremony to find out.

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After the Altra 5K, I had some time to check out the trailing and some more vendors.  I noticed the REEF’s RC guys finally at their spot and got to ask what those cables were for. They told me they were to lock up their rigs when they weren’t around, so they didn’t drive off on their own, smart!

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The trails were pretty packed in the morning.

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Even Mr. Tree was out wheeling his Yota.

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The Bay Bridge was very busy.

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It was a long drive across, but not as scary as the Golden Gate bridge of last year.

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Shh, don’t wake that camper in the tent.

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I can’t believe MMA star Jamie Varner is an RC fan.

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Getting off the bridge was easy.

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These slick rocks are always more tricky than they look.

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These two were having a good time on the slick rocks.

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More people on the handicapped accessible trail.

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This was the start of the handicapped accessible trail.

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OG Chino was still rocking his Half Cab and twin sticks.  I don’t think he even noticed me he was so focused on this section.

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Feel the Powa! of the Power Wagon.

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Looks like Registration is closed for lunch. #flossanddab

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Back at the DWTS camp, Big Country and all his homies were set up and wrenching away.

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It’s like a sea of RC in there.

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Is that a DWTS bumper sticker?

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Don’t forget to stop and smell the flowers.  Enjoy the scenery and appreciate the beauty of the mountains.

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As the sun rose to mid afternoon, the temps also rose and people left the trails to try to stay cool. Under this bridge was a good chilling spot.

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I was only able to catch a few hardcore drivers out in the heat.

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Mr. Tree approves of this 4Runner.

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Some of the  rocks in this river bed were crazy big.

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Smile guys.

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I’m not sure if this is an action shot or a flex pose.

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He’s headed into the Unknown.

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Wait a minute, his rig wants to cool off in the river, too.

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It must have been refreshing, because this guy jumped in, as well.

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This is right about were I got hot and headed back for some more water and a snack.

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One thing I learned from our Austrian Axialfesters from a few years back is that they are not used to seeing big trucks on the road.  Even Average Joe and the Canucks were impressed with the 37″ tires on my trip up to the first Canadian G6. At Axialfest, there are big tires everywhere you turn your head.  RPP has big tires.

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Rivas’s A.T.A.C. 4Runner has pretty big tires.

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This FJ40 has big tires.

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This YJ has big tires.

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This XJ has big tires.

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KOH Champ Mr. Scherer definitely has big tires.

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The Prairie City SVRA approves of big tires. But, remember to use proper trail etiquette.

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I’m not sure where she’s riding, but that helmet and elbow pads say, SEND IT!

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Hey look, Magnaflow came again and brought some cool stuff for tomorrow night.

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I was lucky to spot Axialfest OG Brokenib out on the trail.

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He is still running the iconic Blue Bastard.

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I wonder if it’s still on 6S?

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The SPOD crew was following close behind.

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Down by the river more people were running the Knights Customs trail.

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This trail was popular with the kids.

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This Wraith is packed and ready for the long haul.

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This little girl was in a hurry.  She got a little annoyed when her father took a little too long on an obstacle.

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Dude, no cell phones when driving.  Don’t you know the rules?

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Luckily, we were off road, so no tickets this time.

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A fellow educator on the trial with his newborn.  I had a good time chatting with him and his wife.

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LOOK OUT!!!! DINOSAUR!!!!!

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These crazy aliens drove by like they weren’t even scared.

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What the heck? Is that the 1:1 Bomber? You never know what you’ll see at Axialfest.

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PS The Bomber has big tires.

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This guy was brave enough to save the submariners from the Jurassic Mosasaurus.

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The Dinosaur patrol is a little late.  The Raptors have already escaped.

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This was a great looking XJ.

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Rage at the River!!! There was quite a party going on by the overpass.

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This crew was enjoying the cold tub.  I kinda wished I had on my swim trunks.  The water looked great.

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It’s always cool under here with the breeze blowing off the water.

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Yoga by the river?

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Yup, more cooling off with the kids.

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Same idea but a little more controlled for the littles.

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I spotted this scale garage next to the road.  I loved the scale Ledgestone under the window.

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A couple years ago I spotted this teardrop at Axialfest.  It was in the initial stages of its build back then.

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It was a little more polished now with even more modifications to come. I wonder what it will look like next year.

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Those skeletons were still pickin and grinnin.

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I didn’t notice this scale garage at MyTrickRC when I ran by during the Altra 5K.

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Wait a minute, what’s this?

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The Monster Jam?!?!?!? I almost missed it.

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I’m always amazed at how difficult such an easy looking course is.  Competition makes the trigger finger get whiskey throttle.

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Elio and Pham look pretty serious.

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The kids were definitely serious.

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The kids love watching the carnage of the Monster Jam.

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Photo finish jump!

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Time for highest air.

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This guy blew his lid off.

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Hmmm, cool trophies. I don’t know what the classes were, but you can see the winners below.

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I swear, I turned around and the parade was just cruising by.  I almost missed this, too. There’s so much going on at Axialfest. Fun is everywhere!

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Is that a mile long Axialfest train?  It sure did feel like it. How long is a line with 2,000 people in it?

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The Monterrey Bay family was back again.  I recognized her pink livery from last year.

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At dusk, Tree, Mike, and I set out for a trail run.

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I see Mr. Tree back there trying to keep up.

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Dang, this day seemed extra long.  I woke up extra early to Altra 5K and stayed out late trailing into the Great Unknown.  See you in Part 4 of the Axialfest 2018 Skeeno report where we Rock Race and end a great week with the Axialfest 2018 Awards Ceremony and Raffle.

Tips To Assemble Beadlock Wheels

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Who loves assembling tires? Raise your hand! Stop raising your hand, we can’t see you. Glueing or assembling tires on beadlock rims is not among the favorite build tasks of an RC machine. Perhaps that is why most RC manual writers leave it to the end. But it’s a job that needs to get done. However if it’s not done right, it could lead to problems when you’re out at play or on the course. Here we’re going to go over how to assemble a certain wheel type so it secures the tire properly and that is a beadlock rim. Beadlock rims have some great advantages, they secure the tire without glue and the wheel can even be reused when you want to swap tires. But if you assemble a beadlock incorrectly, your tire may seem out of alignment and cause wheel wobble and erratic handling. Let’s go over some tips to help you install a tire on a beadlock wheel properly.

GATHER YOUR PARTS
Axial Beadlocks 1
Gather all the parts you need to assemble one wheel and put them together in a pile. Here is the loosely assembled wheel, tire with insert, screws and inner hub.

TOOLS
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The tools you’ll need will be pretty simple. Pretty much you’ll just need a 2mm hex driver for this wheel. We’re going to make our lives easier and use and electric driver with 2mm speed bit. You may also need a leather punch depending on how you want to vent your tire.

STEP 1
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These 2.2 Walker Evans Wheels came loosely assembled from the factory. It is important to notice how they come apart. They have a vent option built into the wheel that allows you to have no vent, a 2 hole vent (1 on each side) or a 4 hole vent or even a 6 hole vent. This vent system is off-set so you’ll want to notice the position of the middle ring. To make keeping track of the rim easier, we put the wheel from the factory on the table, backside of the rim first. Then slide out the center hoop and place the back side down next to the rear locking ring. Then we take the face of the rim out and placed it next to the center ring.

STEP 2
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Take the center ring and slip it into the tire makeing sure it also goes inside of the foam insert. As you slip the insert in, the “back” of the rim will continue to face down.

STEP 3
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Check to make sure your inner ring is perfectly positioned in the center of the foam.

STEP 4
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Now pick the tire up, move it over the back side of the beadlock ring and place the tire down. You can flip the tire over now so you can push the outer rim onto the tire. We know the additional steps to keep track of the inner ring off-set sound silly, but trust us, its better to go slow and keep track rather than getting frustrated wondering why your wheel isn’t going together properly.

STEP 5
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Look inside the wheel, see the notches? This is the venting system. By moving the outter rim so it inserts over the peg in a different location adjusts how much the tire will vent. We have it in the middle so only one hole on this side of the wheel will vent air. Want a softer tire, allow 2 holes to vent. Want to go in the water, shift the wheel ring so none of the holes are open. You get the idea.

STEP 6
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Now take the time to set the tire bead onto the shiny portion of the rim ring, we pulled the tire off of it, so you can see it better. If its on the next lower part of the ring, it may not press on properly later. After slowly pushing in the outter ring, lift up on the tire edge a bit to make sure its seated properly.

STEP 7
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Now you can flip the tire back over and place it on your bench. Slip in the front portion of the rim from the top. Push down on the rim face so the tire bead seats itself just like you did to the back ring.

STEP 8
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With the rim face in place, flip the tire over again and make sure the screw holes line up. If they do not, spin the front rim face until the holes line up. Do no turn the back ring, this will change your vents.

STEP 9
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Time to start assembling this thing! Screw two screws into the rim on opposite sides. Only screw them in a few threads.

STEP 10
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Now install two more, again across from each other and just a few threads.

STEP 11
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Thread the last few screws into the wheel, again just screw them in so a few threads catch. Your wheel should now be aligned and ready to be tightened. But wait!

STEP 12
Axial Beadlocks 14x
You will need to keep the wheel face and back ring even as you tigthen down the screws. This is achieved by tightening the screws a little at a time in a “star pattern” just as if you were tightening the lug-nuts on a real car. You may tighten the screws down in the star pattern for 4-5 cycles before the wheel has compressed and properly pinched the tire in the beadlock. Tigthen the screws until they are snug and you don’t see any gaps between the rim pieces or screws.

STEP 13
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Install your inner hex hub in a similar fashion. You can install all the screws at once, but tighten them into their final position by using the star pattern.

STEP 14
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Check your tire overhang. Lift up on the edge of the tire and you should see the rubber overhang edge that sits on the outter edge of the rim. It should look uniform as you turn the wheel and gently pull up on the edge. If you see a large gap or can’t pull the edge out at all, there’s a chance your  tire is not properly seated in the rim and you’ll need to disassemble the wheel and repeat the install process. If you don’t the tire will wobble. A wobbly tire can cause bad handling and wear other parts on the rig prematurely.

TIPS
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Some drivers choose to vent through the tire. To do this, you’ll need a leather punch to punch a hole in the tire. The thought behind venting the tire is that any dirt that gets inside can “fling” out. Or if water gets in the tire, it can drain out. Some think less dirt gets into the tire with this style of vent. It’s an option we just want to let you know about and you can decide what style is best for you.

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Foam Trimming- There are a number of methods to trimming tire insert foam that will change how the tire acts. Some will cut the outer edges of the foam on a diagonal so the sidewall of the tire will feel a bit softer. If you are just having fun, leave it as is. If you plan to race, see how other racers modify their inserts.

FINISHED!
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Your beadlock wheel and tire are now properly assembled. Just three more to go! Or if you have a Bomber, just four more to go! Take your time and assembled your wheels properly. They’ll stay together and allow your rig to perform better.

Build The Perfect King Shocks

Building_ThePerfect_King_Shocks

When it comes to building shocks on an RC kit, many builders start to cringe. It’s not a favorite task for many, however building your shocks properly is a must if you want your suspension to perform. We’re working on a RR10 Bomber for some future video action shoots and decided to take some extra time to take photos to show you just how to build the King aluminum shocks that come with the kit. Here we’ll show you all of our tips and tricks that will result in a high performance shock that will give your rig the best handling possible.

YOU’LL NEED
Shock Shaft Pliers (TLR99101)
5.0 Nut Driver (Set: DYNT2010)
Shock O-Ring Grease (TLR77002)
Competition Silicone Shock Oil (TLR74020)
Paper Towels

STEP 1
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It’s best to take the time and lay out all of your shock components nice and neatly so you have everything in front of you and nothing is left out.

STEP 2
Axial King Shocks 2
We’re going to start with the cartirdge assembly. Carefully cut them from the parts trees and slip the clear o-ring over the threads and seat it in the lower slot.

STEP 3
Axial King Shocks 3
Don’t jump right into installing the shock o-rings in the cartridge. Before you do so, here’s a tip. Use a shock o-ring grease such as TLR77002  to grease the o-rings. Place a small amount of grease in a plastic bag and then the o-rings. Work the grease onto the o-rings so they’re well coated.

STEP 4
Axial King Shocks 4
You’ll also need the cartidge spacers and caps to finish the cartridge assembly. It’s best to cut the parts off of the tree using a hobby knife. Cut as close as you can to the spacers so there isn’t any extra material from the tree on the spacer. Extra material here could cause a binding in the cartridge.

STEP 5
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Place a greased o-ring in the cartridge, followed by the spacer, followed by another o-ring.

STEP 6
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Snap the cartridge cap on and make certian it is perfectly seated in place. If the cap isn’t completely snapped on, it could possible come apart during use.

STEP 7
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Now it’s time to install the pistons on the  shock shafts. In your RR10 kit, there will be delrin pistons in the bag. Use these. Place one washer on the shock shaft, followed by the piston, followed by another washer and then the retaining nut. Use shock shaft pleirs to hold the shaft and use the 5.0 nut driver to snug the nut into place.

STEP 8
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Once you’ve tightened the nut, make certain the piston just barely spins on the shaft. If you tighten it too much to the point it can’t move, you may have possibly “mushroomed” the piston and it could possibly bind in the shock body.

STEP 9
King SHock
Slip the assembled shock shaft/ piston into the cartridge and thread it into the bottom of the shock body slowly. You’ll want to completely screw the cartridge in slowly until the o-ring can no longer be seen and the cartridge is tight.

STEP 10
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Slide the bump-stop on the shaft and screw the shock end onto the shaft until the top of the end meets the unthreaded portion of the shaft. Using shock shaft pliers here is a good idea.

STEP 11
Axial King Shocks 11
Time to install the pre-load collars, but first you need to slip the black o-rings into the slots inside the collars.

STEP 12
Axial King Shocks 12
When threading the collars onto the shock body, it’s a good idea to put a drop of oil at the top of the threads. This will allow the collars to screw on much easier.

STEP 13
Axial King Shocks 13
We’re getting there. It’s now time to fill the shock with oil. Instead of using the kit oil, we’re going to use a competition grade oil from Team Losi Racing to fill the shock. With the piston at the bottom of the body, fill the shock body with oil to the top.

STEP 14
Axial King Shocks 14
Axial King Shocks 15
This is a critical step. We have to cycle out any air trapped under the piston. Slowly push the shock shaft up in the body. Don’t let the piston go past the oil at the top. When the piston nears the top, pull the shock shaft back down and air bubbles should rise to the top. Continue this process until all of the trapped air is gone. If there are fine bubbles in the oil, set the shock aside and wait for the air bubble to come to the surface.

STEP 15
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Seat the shock bladder into the cap. Slip the bladder in and using a fine blade screwdriver or similar object, make sure the bladder is seated perfectly in the top of the cap by pushing on the edges.

STEP 16
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Top off the shock with oil if necessary. The oil should be near level with the top of the body.

STEP 17
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Slowly push the shock shaft to the top.

STEP 18
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Now screw the shock cap on. Some oil should seep out of the sides. Tighten the cap firmly.

STEP 19
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Once the cap is tightented, the shaft should slide out a little bit. Cycle the shock shaft in and out several times to make sure it has a good feel and there isn’t any binding.

STEP 20
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If the shock is built correctly, you should be able to push the shock shaft all the way to the top. If there is a lot of shock shaft showing, you have what’s called hydro-lock and this will cause handling problems. You may need to bleed some additional oil out of the shock. Loosen the cap, push the shock shaft in all the way and tighten the cap again. This should bleed out some oil. Repeat the process until the shaft goes all the way up.

STEP 21
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Almost done, slip the appropriate spring over the shock body and slip the lower shock perch into place. Pop the ball end into the shock eyelets and you’re shock is assembled!

FINISHED
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Your shocks should now be assembled and ready for installation on your rig. You’re not done yet. You’ll still need to adjust your pre-load collars to set your vehicles ride height. Use the suggested collar settings in the manual as a starting point. Because the weight of the equipment used in a rig may vary, small adjustments may need to be made to set your vehicle to a ride height that will work for you.