SCX10 II Handling Adjustment – $3 Shock Mod


We’re guessing by now you’ve logged a lot of miles on your SCX10 II ready to run rig. The truck has probably served you well tackling new terrain wherever your adventure takes you. So what’s next? How about improving your rig for better handling on those to tough to conquer trails. The stock out of the box SCX10 II is set up for general scale trail use, but the highly capable platform can improve as you improve and the tuning trick we’re about to show you will cost you just a few bucks and will take less than ten minutes of your time to complete. What we’re going to do here is lower the CG of the SCX10 II by simply relocating the lower shock mounting point. The shock end comes mounted to the axle on its own mounting boss. But, by relocating it to the same mounting point as the lower link, it lowers the overall Center Of Gravity of the chassis and a lower COG equals better handling. Let’s get started!

3x25mm Button Head Machine Screw- AXA120
3mm Thin Nylon-Lock Nut- AXA1052 (Optional)
Basic hobby tools- 2.0mm hex driver, wheel nut wrench and long nose pleirs

Step 1
SCX Shock Mod 1
Let’s get the easy stuff out of the way. Remove the wheel nut caps, wheel nuts, wheels and lower shock mount screws from all four corners of your SCX10 II.

Step 2
SCX Shock Mod 2
Now, remove the screw that secures the link to the axle and place it in your spare hardware bin.

Step 3
SCX Shock Mod 3
Take the new long 3x25mm button head screw that you spent a whole $3 on and insert it through the shock end, into the axle mount with the link in place and screw it all the way in.

Step 4 (Option)
SCX Shock Mod 4
The screw will be secure as it has been screwed into the plastic axle mounting boss. But if you want to go one step further in security to make sure that screw doesn’t back out, you can add a thing 3mm Ny-Lock nut to the end of the screw. Tighten the nut snug.

Step 5
Repeat Step 2-4 for the remaining shock/ link points.

Step 6
Reinstall your wheels, nuts and caps.

SCX Shock Mod 6
You can see above, the left shock is in the stock location and the right shock has been relocated to the new position in-line with the lower link. The axle is also visibly lowered on the right side in the photo. Once all four shocks have been relocated and the truck turned upright, the chassis will now be lower in comparison to the stock position.

Now you’re ready to head back out and try and navigate some of those tough terrain features that may have defeated you prior. With the lower CG, your rig will benefit from the modification. Keep in mind, this will not be a night and day difference. You still need to choose your lines and wheel speed wisely. Make sure you keep checking back to the Axial blogs as we’ll continue to offer tuning secrets to help your SCX10 II improve as you improve. #AxialPerformance

Axial Deadbolt AX90066 Simple Body and Bumper Mod

Axial Deadbolt AX90066 Simple Body and Bumper Mod
The Axial AX90066 Deadbolt is an extremely popular body style, and we’re constantly pulling spare plastic out of our parts bins to try and create a few simple body mods.

The first is something we’ve been asked about for a long time – why doesn’t the Deadbolt come with a rear bumper. Well, say no more – check out this great little how to on adding a simple rear bumper to the back of your Deadbolt.

1. 1.5mm Hex Wrench
2. 2.0mm Hex Wrench
3. Side cutters
4. Dremel (to help clean up the bumper)

AX80125 Axial SCX10 Poison Spyder JK Brawler Lite Front Bumper

Step 1

Axial Deadbolt AX90066 Simple Body and Bumper Mod
Here are the two parts we’ll be installing; a front bumper and bumper mount. We’ll use the original hardware included with your Deadbolt to re-mount the parts.

Step 2

Axial Deadbolt AX90066 Simple Body and Bumper Mod
Using the side cutters, clip the hoop off the bumper. Here’s where you can use the Dremel to clean up the bumper. If you have a thin pair of side cutters, you might be able to clip close to the bumper and not require any Dremel work.

Step 3

Axial Deadbolt AX90066 Simple Body and Bumper Mod
Remove the stock rear bumper and install the AX80125 mount. Use the stock hardware to lock it in place.

Step 4

Axial Deadbolt AX90066 Simple Body and Bumper Mod
Slide your freshly modified rear bumper into the mount and secure with the stock hardware.

Step 5

Axial Deadbolt AX90066 Simple Body and Bumper Mod
Set your body on top and examine your handiwork. Your Deadbolt now has a rear bumper that even includes light buckets!

Step 6

Axial Deadbolt AX90066 Simple Body and Bumper Mod
But wait – there’s more! If you have a set of D-rings lying around, you can add those to the rear bumper to help pull your buddies out if they get stuck!

This second mod came about after a couple of us found that getting to the rear body clips can be a bit of a pain if you have chunky hands. This mod will not only make it super easy to get to them, it also give provisions for adding a scale rear tire.

1. 2.0mm Hex Wrench
2. Side cutters
3. Dremel (to help clean up the bumper)

AXA0147 M3x16mm Hex Socket Flat Head Screw
AXA1052 M3 Thin Nylon Locking Hex Nut
AXA0422 M2.6x6mm Hex Socket Tapping Button Screw
AX31305 TT-380 Rear Lower Cage and Tire Retainer
AX80130 Roll Cage Sides

Step 1

Axial Deadbolt AX90066 Simple Body and Bumper Mod
Remove the body – as you can see, it’s a little tough getting to the rear body pins with sausage fingers.

Step 2

Axial Deadbolt AX90066 Simple Body and Bumper Mod
Here are the parts you’ll need. Any spare tire will work with this mod (as long as it’s a 1.9). It’s also suggested that you remove the foam insert as well. You’ll see more about this later.

Step 3

Axial Deadbolt AX90066 Simple Body and Bumper Mod
Mount the tire to the cage by inserting your 16mm screw through the washer, then through the tire. Note the orientation of the mount; this setup mounts the tire low in the bed for the best performance. If you want to allow a little more room for, say, some scale items, flip the plastic mount as shown in the picture below (you’ll need at least a 30mm screw to attach the rear tire).

Axial Deadbolt AX90066 Simple Body and Bumper Mod

Step 4

Axial Deadbolt AX90066 Simple Body and Bumper Mod
Secure the tire in place with a M3 locknut. If you’re feeling really sassy, you can use the AX31320 Axial Bomber Rear Tire Hold Down for a super trick look!

Step 5

Axial Deadbolt AX90066 Simple Body and Bumper Mod
Remove the screws from the stock cage (see the pretty red arrows). Make sure you remove them from BOTH sides of the Deadbolt.

Step 6

Axial Deadbolt AX90066 Simple Body and Bumper Mod
Using the side cutters, chop off the rear part of the cage as shown. You can use a Dremel here to clean up the cut or just leave it be.

Step 7

Axial Deadbolt AX90066 Simple Body and Bumper Mod
Attach your rear tire mount to the cage, flip it up and secure with the M2.6×6 screws. Tightening these down will help keep the rear cage in place, just be sure not to over-tighten them.

Step 8

Axial Deadbolt AX90066 Simple Body and Bumper Mod
Lower the cage all the way to the body, and ‘pinch’ the tire in-between the cage. This is where a tire without the foam insert will help hold the flip-cage in place a little better.

Step 9

Axial Deadbolt AX90066 Simple Body and Bumper Mod
Now, swing the cage up to install the body pins. Brilliant, right?

Yeti Option Parts Overview

The Yeti is one of those high speed, multi-terrain capable vehicles that many turn to for extreme rock racing performance. The combination of the independent front suspension and rear solid axle design gives the driver a unique driving experience. The transmission and power system pumps out speeds that will launch it over whatever is in your way. And of course, the look of the aggressive rock racing buggy draws in any attention seeker. This rig puts you in the action with success right out of the box. But like with any hobby machine, there will be drivers who want to customize their rigs to suit their taste and because of that Axial has a full list of options available to make your machine stand out. Here we have a AX90026  Yeti from the test rig fleet that has received a bunch of option accessories. Here we’ll go through those accessories and their benefits so you can determine if this is the best option part for you. Plus you’ll get to see the part installed and imagine what it would be like on your own Yeti.

Axial Yeti Options 13

Machined Front Shock Tower (Hard Anodized)
Axial Yeti Options 1
For those who push their rig to the limits and want aluminum parts to replace plastic, there is the CNC machined aluminum tower. This tower comes with all of the hardware necessary for installation and it provides ultra secure mounting points for you shocks and links without sacrificing adjustability.

Machined Body Post Mount (Hard Anodized)
Axial Yeti Options 10
The front of any off-road vehicle is subject to abuse and those roof landing don’t help either. To firm up the body support, this CNC aluminum body post mount is available. This bolts right in place of the stock plastic unit and comes with the required metric hardware for the install.

Machined Sway Bar Clamp (Hard Anodized) (2pcs)
Axial Yeti Options 3
While you’re on your aluminum upgrade kick, take a look at these important pieces. These two aluminum swaybar mounts add support to allow the swaybar to do its job. The mount is adjustable so you can alter the placement of the bar.

Machined Shock Mount Plates (Hard Anodized) (2pcs)
Since the rear upper shock mount isn’t a conventional shock tower, these plates are available as an option to firm up the mounting points in case you decide to go big on the jumps.
Axial Yeti Options 16

Machined 4 Link Mounts
Axial Yeti Options 6
When you bump up your power for speed or jumping, the suspension will take on extra stress. Consider using the optional forward lower suspension link mounts. These strong CNC machined aluminum parts are finished like all of the other Axial aluminum option goodies and comes with the hardware to secure the parts to the chassis.

Universal Axle Set
Axial Yeti Options 9
Steel universal axles can provide smooth and consistent performance when adding more power to your Yeti. The stock components will work well, but if you’re increasing performance, these steel uni’s will improve efficiency.

Machined Adjustable Motor Mount (Hard Anodized)
Axial Yeti Options 14
The factory supplied motor plate is perfect for the the electronics supplied with the ready to run kit, but some will eventually look to push their rig to the limits. For those looking to boost the power, you may want to consider the Machined Adjustable Motor Plate. This plate and mount is machined from stronger aluminum, hard anodized and even features an etched logo. This sturdy mount will keep your motor stable and gears in place.

Lower Link Plate Set (Aluminum)
Upper Link Plate Set (Aluminum)
Axial Yeti Options 7
These aluminum plates are simple to bolt on with the included hardware and increase the durability of the plastic link, plus they give the suspension a high end look with the hard anodized finish.

Icon 87-125mm Aluminum Shock Set – 10mm Piston
Icon 67-90mm Aluminum Shock Set – 10mm Piston
Axial Yeti Options 12
Boost performance with these highly tunable shock sets. These shocks feature machined aluminum bodies, aluminum caps and ti-nitride coated shock shafts. All the hardware needed to build these shocks are in the set, but you will need to supply your own oil. Get more details on these shocks HERE

AR60 OCP Full Width Axle Adapter Set
Axial Yeti Options 4
The Yeti is set-up with offset hex hub adapters on the wheels so the front offset is less than the rear. Make the front and rear offset hubs the same by using this Full Width adapter set. This set will also improve durability as the axle tubes are machined aluminum, anodized black and feature etched logos. The set also comes with the necessary long steel axle shafts.

AR60 Machined Link Mounts (Hard Anodized)
Axial Yeti Options 5
These CNC machined 6061 aluminum mounts are direct replacements for the plastic link mounts on your AR60 axles. They’re hard anodized and etched for a custom look. It only takes a few minutes to swap out and is a great option part to use when upgrade the power on your Yeti.

M4 Rod End Set
M4x55mm Turnbuckle (Steel)
M4x60mm Turnbuckle (Steel)
Axial Yeti Options 8
A full turnbuckle kit is available for the Yeti RTR that replaces the stock fixed links for adjustable links; part AX31249. The set includes the all four tie-rods that are machined aluminum and hard anodized and the required plastic rod ends for installation. However on this particular build, the individual components were used. The four tie-rods are plated steel in two different sizes and the necessary plastic rod end set is listed above. Regardless of which set you decide to add, these adjustable turnbuckles will now allow you to tune your camber and toe on the front of the Yeti.

Axial Yeti Options 17

Skeeno’s Axialfest 2018 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Build

After AXIALFEST2017, I started thinking that I needed to update my trailing rig.  Last year, I built a new racer for for the Altra Ultra 5K Enduro, but I needed something new to run on all the trials at AXIALFEST2018.


As luck would have it, Brown Santa dropped off some Green Tape just before the Christmas season.  Merry Christmas to me!


When I opened up the box, it was packed with the new SCX10 2 2017 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited CRC.  This would be a great new trailing rig for AXIALFEST2018!


My buddy, Mr. Werty over at WertyMade contacted me as soon as he found out I had the new rig.  He wanted to use it as a test mule for some parts he was making; rear bumpers, front bumpers, and rock sliders. Since we’ve been RC nerd friends for many years, I happily agreed to lend him my new trailing rig.


He returned it to me in even better than tip top shape.  All the parts he test fitted, he left on there for me, score!  I immediately started thinking about the things I wanted to modify and add to improve the performance and looks of the 2017 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited CRC. First up was to get a spare tire and some RotopaX on the rear bumper.


Mr. Werty repossessed those D Rings, so that was one item I wanted to replace on that sweet front stinger.


Check out those sweet sliders, indexed to hold the body, just like the stock plastic ones, but these are made out of steel.  The wrench logo in a nice touch, too.


Next up was a new set of socks and shoes.  I’ve always liked beadlocks and the classic Axial 1.9 Beadlocks were my first choice.  Just as I got the wheels, Werty annouced these new Wrench Rings, and I just had to have a set.


Look how awesome the rings look.


In order to add a little crawling performance, I like to add some weight in the wheels to lower the center of gravity.  The Axial Internal Rings are a perfect fit. I also swapped out to a slightly beefier looking tire, the BFG All-Terrains are a classic tire and the KO2 version is even better than the original.


They mount up easily, and you can adjust the weight using the inserts.


At this point, I was loving this wheel/tire/ring combo, but I wasn’t digging looking at the electronics through the wheel wells.


It was starting to look pretty good, but I still had a ways to go.


Next up, I needed to add some swag to the rear.


Since I wasn’t using the stock Nitto Trail Grabbers, I pressed one into service as the spare tire.


Next, I hit up my local hobby shop, CKRC Hobbies and picked up these RotopaX gas cans from Scale by Chris AKA SBC.


Don’t worry, the tire rack swings away, so you can still get into the back of the Jeep.


Another modification I like to do is the 3654 Mod to the wheel hexes.  Eazy Elio from Two Chainz Scalerz taught me this trick to give any Axial scaler a slighly wider stance. Since the stock hexes are about 3mm, this modification adds about 10mm of width to the SCX10 2.


While I was at CKRC picking up the SBC RotopaX cans, I spotted these brass 8mm hexes from Team KNK. It might be slight, but the brass hexes will also lower the center of gravity slighty.


They fit perfectly and come with new wheel nuts and set screws to secure them to the axles.


Next up was adding some wheel wells to hide the electronics.  I used the wheel wells for the original SCX10.


They aren’t a perfect fit, but with a little creativity with the scissors, they worked out pretty well.


The curve of the Jeep Wrangler body means you have to trim the fronts quite a bit.


I ended up trimming that front tab off because I was worried it would hang up on twigs and things on the trail.


After a little black paint, they look great.


Black helps hide all the imperfections.


That’s WAY better than before; no more unsightly wires can be seen under there.


I almost forgot to mention this cool feature on the WertyMade bumper. Those four holes are for mounting a rear winch if you want one…


And that hole is a bottle opener for those times when you need to hydrate during wrenching sessions!


Next, it was time to add a some interior to give it a little more scale look, as well as to hide the electronics a little more.  I heard from the Anthony Rivas of Rivas Concepts and Matt Kett from the Scale Builders Guild that the 2012 Jeep Wrangler body was a perfect fit.


Sadly, I had to kill a perfectly good body.  If you want to try this, you can probably find an old body from one of your local RC buddies to cut up.


Be sure to cut around the lights and fender flares.


The rear view mirror mounting holes make a great mounting point.  The two screws hold the front securely.


I found that the door handle impressions lined up perfectly and made getting it in evenly easy.


I cut a big hole to allow for the rear body mounts to pass through.


Don’t worry, with the tinted rear windows, you can only see it if you are staring directly into the rear windows.


Looking good so far. Time for paint.


I wavered between black, red, and silver before settling on the silver.  I was happy with my choice because the bright color makes the interior pop against the red.


That’s what I’m talking about.  No more unsightly electrics can be seen in there.


Earlier, I got distracted by that big open space in the front bumper. TIme to remedy that.


I pulled the winch off my old SCX10 and it mounted up easily.  It even had a matching red hook.


Oh yeah! that looks way better with the winch in there.


I found some D rings on some old parts trees to replace the ones Mr. Werty repossessed. I even put one on the rear bumper.


Back to the interior.  Sticker time!


I kept it pretty simple in here.  The only thing I added was the steering wheel I had in my parts box.  Low Rider Style with the chain ring.




Bam! The silver and black really contrasts well against the red.


There it is mounted up, two screws through the mirror holes and a little tape hold it in.


There’s the mirror screws holding the mirrors on and the interior in.


I also found some wipers on the spare parts tree and mounted them up.


I really like the clean looks of it.

51 She’s just about ready to conquer all the trails at AXIALFEST2018!


I just wanted to add a couple more scale details.  First I added the molded door handles.

IMG_20180427_203454 (1)

A bonus of the door handles is they also hold the interior in place.


Then, I added the molded hood latches.  Both of these come on the spare parts trees in the box.


I had to give it a quick trail run to test it out.


I must say, this rig handles amazingly well.

58I’m thinking this rig is going to be amazing at AXIALFEST2018!


One last item before I wrap up this build.  I need a few more lumens than the stock headlights, so I decided to add the JRC Offroad Roof Rack.


Looks pretty good up there even though it’s originally meant for the 2000 Jeep Cherokee.


The Rigid Light Bar fits perfectly up there.



I used the 8 String LED and 3 Port High Output LED Controller.


I’m really loving the look and capabilities of this rig.



I’m definitely ready to emark on the adventures that Axialfest 2018 holds. I just wish July 18th would get here already!


RTR Brushed Motor Maintenance Tips

Just because you purchase a ready to run vehicle doesn’t mean it will always stay that way. Like anything mechanical, components can wear, get dirty and just need general maintenance to keep going. This holds true for any ready to run RC car and the area of focus for this blog is going to be a very critical components of your rig, the motor. More specifically brushed motors. The brushed motors that come in ready to run Axial rigs are among the most durable available, they provide the power you need to tackle trails, the torque needed to climb and the will continue to provide that power even while submerged in water or covered in mud. All that abuse can eventually take a toll on the motor, but with a little bit of routine general maintenance you can keep that motor in prime running condition for a long period of time. Let’s talk brushed motor maintenance tips.


Motor Clean 2
First things first, if you were covered in mud, would you slip right into your bed to go to sleep at night? Not at all right? Why should your rig be any different. If you put away your rig with a dirty motor, the dirt can start to cake on and its performance may suffer the very next time you use it. Built up crud on a motor will often cause it to overheat and reduce the life of the motor.
What to do? Grab yourself a stiff bristle paint brush or even an air compressor if available and brush or blow off the motor if it has dirt on it. A clean motor that can breath will deliver the power you need and just generally last longer.


Motor Clean 3
Pretty much every ready to run brushed motor uses a bushing on each end for the motor shaft to spin on. This bushing is specifically called an oilite bushing; the key word to pull out of that is “oil.” The bushing needs lubrication and that comes in the form of oil. Always keep small bottle of bushing oil handy to place a drop on each bushing. This will allow the shaft to spin smooth in the bushings and reduce long term wear. Yes, the oil will collect dirt, so after you’ve let the drop seep in between the bushing and shaft, use a paper towel to get rid of any excess oil so it doesn’t collect dirt.

Suggested Motor Bushing Oil- Dynamite Precision Oiler: Light (DYNE0102)



Motor Clean 1
Every once in a while your motor will need a good old fashion thorough cleaning. This starts by removing the motor from your rig and cleaning it with motor spray. When you’ve pulled the motor, put on some protective gloves and in a well ventilated area, preferably outside, spray out your motor over a trash can. Spray the motor spray in both ends and keep spraying until the liquid dripping from the motor is clear (it’s a good idea to have a white paper towel in the trash to see the difference between the dirty spray and clean spray.) Once the motor has been cleaned out, you’ll need to oil those bushings again. Follow the steps above.

Suggested Motor Spray- Dynamite Magnum Force 2 Motor Spray (DYN5500)



Motor Clean 4

When reinstalling the motor back in your truck, it’s a good time to check your electrical connections. Are the bullet plugs nice and tight? If they are loose, you can use a pair of needle-nose pliers to compress the female plug just a little bit for a tighter connection. You should also check for frayed wires near the solder connections. Frayed wire will result in a loss of power or even worse continue to break off during a trail run and possibly even break off completely. If a wire is frayed, cut off the old section, strip away the insulation on the wire and resolder the connection.


Your motor will reach a point in its life where it has just worn out completely or may have been stressed to the point it has burnt out. Here are a few signs to look for if you think your motor needs to be replaced. Loss of power- If your truck has lost power, can’t climb like it used to, the internal brushes or commutator may be worn. Bad odor- Does your motor have a heavy electronic burning smell to it? Overheated or worn out motors can burn out and emit a pungent odor but may still turn with little to no power. Shaft Wobble- Does the motor shaft move side to side? A little bit of in and out movement is ok, but side to side generally means the bushings have worn out. If you have any of the above symptoms, it’s probably time to grab yourself a new motor.

Closed Can-
20T Electric Motor- AX24003
27T Electric Motor- AX24004
35T Electric Motor- AX31312
55T Electric Motor- AX24007

35T Trail Breaker Electric Motor- AX31329
55T Trail Breaker Electric Motor- AX31330


Simple brushed motors like the kind found in your ready to run Axial truck are among the most affordable, but even still Axial would rather see you on the trails having fun then contemplating motor swaps or upgrades because of a poor maintenance routine. Take the time to maintain your investment and it will provide you with a long life of fun off-road runs. There’s no such thing as over maintaining your rig. Do it as often as you can.

Building & Tuning Axial Icon Shocks


In the world of RC racing, driver’s won’t hesitate to pull their suspension and shocks apart to rebuild or tune them in order to achieve better performance. But in the trail truck and rock racer segment, many think, you just add some oil to the shocks and go. This is far from the truth. Just like any RC vehicle that you want to perform better, shock building and tuning is a crucial part in having a great handling machine. Lucily in the Axial array of option parts, there is an available shock upgrade that will give you all the tuning options you need to get your Axial rig dialed in to the specific terrain you run on. Let’s go over your options, how to build the shock and tuning suggestions.

Axial Icon Shocks

Icon 7mm and 10mm Piston Shock Options

Icon 87-125mm Aluminum Shock Set – 10mm Piston (2pcs)
Fits: SMT-10, RR10 Bomber, 1/10 Yeti, Wraith

Icon 72-103mm Aluminum Shock Set – 10mm Piston (2pcs)
Fits: SMT10, RR10 Bomber, 1/10 Yeti SCORE, Wraith

Icon 67-90mm Aluminum Shock Set – 10mm Piston (2pcs)
Fits: RR10 Bomber, 1/10 Yeti & Yeti SCORE

Icon 93-137mm Aluminum Shock Damper Set – 10mm Piston (2pcs)
Fits: SMT10, RR10 Bomber, 1/10 Yeti & Yeti SCORE

Icon 61-90mm Aluminum Shock Set – 7mm piston (2pcs)
Fits: SCX10 & SCX10 II

SHOCK SETS INCLUDE: All parts necessary to build two complete shocks; Shock bodies, caps, spring collars, ball ends, pearches, o-rings, bladders, pistons, machined pistons, bushings, pivot balls, washers, nuts, shock shafts and limiting spacers.

Icon Shock bags

Building A Better Shock

Assembling a shock properly is critical to achieving maximum performance. For tips to build the Icon shocks, we enlisted the help of Axial component guru John Schultz. John has discovered a number of tips to building the perfect shock and we’re passing them on to you:

1. Seat the bladder in the cap. Place the bladder inside of the cap and screw the body in place before building the shock. This will ensure it’s in the perfect position later during shock assembly.
2. Install the spring collar. Place a small drop of oil on the outer shock body threads before installing the shock collar. This will allow the collar to move easier later for spring preload adjustments.
3. Grease the shock o-rings with a o-ring specific grease to ensure they work smoothly when the shock is assembled.
4. Place the o-ring on the cartridge. Make sure the o-rings are seated flat on the cartridge before installation to ensure proper seating and reduce the chances of leaking.
5. Install your selected piston on the shock shaft and tighten the nut down until it’s tight, but you can still turn the piston on the shaft. You don’t want to overtighten the piston nut to where it can crush and warp the piston.
6. Before slipping the shock shaft in the body/ cartridge, place a drop of oil on the end of the shaft to allow it to slip through the o-rings without catching or possibly tearing them.
7.When screwing the shock end on the shock shaft, hold the shock shaft securely by placing needle nose pliers on the shafts flat spot or use a specific shock shaft plier to secure the shafts.
8. Now you can fill the shock with oil. Fill it about ¾ full and cycle the shock shaft to allow any trapped air to escape. Wait for the bubbles to pop before moving on.
9. Fill the shock body up with oil so it is level with the top of the body and then push the shock shaft up so it is about 90% of the way in. The piston nut should be just below the oil. Now you can screw on your shock cap with bladder already installed. Tighten the cap firmly.
10. Wipe off any excess oils.
11. Check your shock movement. The shock should compress easily and the full length of the shaft should go into the body. Once you release the shaft it should “rebound” or push out on its own slightly. If the shock shaft does not go all the way in, you may have “hydraulic lock” and you will need to bleed some oil out of the body
12. Slip your spring onto the shock followed by the perch. Pull the shock shaft all the way out and screw the spring collar down so it just touches the spring. This is a good starting point for future tuning adjustment.
13. Finally check your lengths. Using a Caliper, make sure your shock lengths are the same at full extension. If they are not the same, loosen or tighten the lower ball end on the shock shaft of one shock until the lengths of both shocks match. It’s also a good idea to make certain the spring pre-load collars are in the same position. Measure from the bottom of the shock cap to the top of the collar to make sure they are even.

Icon SHock Pair

Starting Set-Up Tips
-Across the board in the RC world, whether you’re running a 1/10 basher truck to a ⅛ off-road buggy, it is often recommended to start with a 2-hole piston and 30wt shock oil. This is also a great set-up for your initial Icon shock set-up. From here you can determine if you need a shock oil weight change, a piston change or even a spring change.
-The Icon shocks come with a number of pistons which allows you to tune the shocks to the handling capability you need. For most, the included machined pistons are the best option. These precision pistons work smooth and only require oil changes for tuning.
Molded pistons are included as well. The A piston is a 2 hole piston with 1.3mm hole for soft damping, the B piston is a 1.2mm 3 hole for firm damping and the C is a 1.1mm 3-hole for firm damping. The hole size and number of holes changes the feel of the shock.
-Now to give you even more tuning options, a molded variable rate piston is included as well. This piston can be installed in either direction but depending on how you install it changes the way the shock reacts. The variable piston in one direction will have faster rebound with slower compression and vice versa when flipped.
-Choosing the piston and oil set-up; this isn’t a simple topic. It all depends on the surface you are running on. So we’ll break it down as basic as possible to give you a starting point. Let’s say you are running on a surface with a lot of jumps. You probably want a shock with more “pack,” a slower compression feel so when the vehicle lands the shocks absorb the impact and the chassis doesn’t slap the ground. This may mean you would want to try a 2-hole machined piston with 35wt oil or a C-piston with 30wt oil or a variable piston in the slow compression setting with 30wt oil. Another scenario is rough bumpy terrain. Here you may want a softer set-up or less pack to allow the shock to react quicker. Here you might want to try the 2-hole machine piston with 25wt oil or the A-piston with 30wt oil or the variable piston with 30wt oil in the faster compression setting.
-Oils change the feel of the way the shock reacts, keep in mind that a lower weight oil will allow the piston to move through it faster while a heavier weight oil will slow the piston down.
-Springs! Springs are included with the Icon shocks and there is a full range of optional springs available at different spring rates. In general, stiffer springs make your rig respond quicker and reduce chassis roll, but will not work well on bumpy terrain. Stiffer is better on smooth or high traction surfaces. Softer springs are better on slippery surfaces or bumpy terrain.

Icon shocks

Hit the off-road
Now that your shocks are properly built and installed, it is time to take your rig out for testing. Take your rig to the area you will run on the most and work on your set-up for that type of terrain. Transitioning to other types of terrain should be a bit easier once you find a base-line set-up. Watch your vehicle as you go over rough terrain. Is the rig landing and hitting the chassis hard? Is the chassis rolling too much? Is it too slow to rebound? Start you changes small, don’t make drastic changes to the shocks. If it’s too slow to rebound, start by switching to a slightly lighter weight oil. Go from a 30wt oil to a 27 ½wt oil. Is the rig rolling too much in the corners, perhaps go with a firmer spring. Again, the best place for a starting set-up with the Icon shocks is the 2-hole machined piston, a 30wt oil and the stock springs. From there, it’s up to you for testing and tuning.

Keep In Mind
The ability to tune your shocks will result in you being able to dial your rig into your specific terrain and driving style. Keep in mind that shocks during their life can take a lot of abuse and the shocks used in rock racing or trail truck driving are among the most abused shocks in the industry. This can even lead to the shock leaking after extended use. When you install your shocks, allow them to move freely on their mounts; don’t pinch them! The excess movement will give them the wiggle room they need to do their job while taking less abuse. More abuse leads to more wear which leads to leaks. But in any case, the Icon shocks are among the best options available to obtain a better handling rig.