2018 New York International Auto Show Adventure Vehicles

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Every year the latest in automotive releases from auto manufacturers world wide converge on New York City at the Javits Convention center to show the press and public vehicles being released for the upcoming year. Many new cars are unveiled at the show so public days can be standing room only at times. Luckily we obtained a press pass and got into the show on press day to see some of the exciting new vehicles on display. Sure, there were plenty of new family toting options, cool cross-overs, some classics parked here and there, just lots of eye candy in many forms all over the show floor. But we concentrated our camera lenses on vehicles that lead to adventure, vehicles that follow the Axial philosophy. So after downing lots of free beverages from Nissan and Honda, candy from Acura and some mini breakfast sandwiches from Mercedes-Benz, we combed the show floors in search of some off-road machines and this is what we’ve come up with.

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The ewn Volkwagen Atlas Tanoak Concept was on display and not an easy vehicle to get a photo of even on the less croweded press day. This truck looked great in person and the winch built into the bumper really caught our attention.

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Toyota has several trucks and SUV’s on display some sporting optional TRD gear.

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The GMC display showed off this Sierra beast with tracks on all four corners and enough LED lighting to turn dark into day.

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Nissan Titan anyone? Nissan needs more play in the off-road world and this truck fitted with an aftermarket bumper, sliders, roll bar and lifted suspension looked like it could handle it.

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Jeep was on hand in full force with a complete booth indoors and their Jeep Camp outdoors. First we took a look at some Wranglers and Rubicons on display and some fitted with Mopar performance parts. But what stole our interest was Jeep Camp. On press day, we shot right to the front of the line for a ride in a new JK Rubicon over the man made Jeep course nestled into the front of the Javits Converntion Hall in New York City. The tour over some obstacles like off-camber bumps, stair cases, and 30-degree incline lasted about two minutes with the driver laying down some eduction on the new Jeep.

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Remember, you can get the off-road Jeep experience, just on a smaller scale. Here are some of the current radio control Axial SCX10 II based Jeep offerings:

AX90060 SCX10 II™ 2017 Jeep® Wrangler Unlimited CRC
AX90047 SCX10 II™ 2000 Jeep® Cherokee RTR
AX90046 SCX10 II™ 2000 Jeep® Cherokee KIT

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Many of the booths had VR experience centers and VW gave you a full game-style driving experience behind the wheel of a GTI.Auto Show 4

Finally Ford offered a Lego Ford Figure make and take along with a photo-op spot to show off your figure on social media. How could we pass it up?

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The NYIAS is always a great experience for the auto enthusiast. If you’re ever in the New York area at the end of March, hitting the International Auto Show is the perfect way to see all the latest releases in the automotive world.

 

 

Pick The Right Axial Model For You

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Axial is a company of enthusiasts for enthusiasts. Axial develops extremely high end radio control models of vehicles that you are likely to see in the great outdoors. These models are designed to generate a tremendous amount of reliable fun that can be experienced by the whole family. Whether you are a beginner looking for a new adventure or a seasoned hobby veteran, Axial offers a platform for you to personalize and enjoy in every environment. The Axial team encourages you to get outside and have some family fun! But wait… Which Axial vehicle should you get? Axial offers a selection of orr-road adventure machines and each has their strengths for certain environments. Let’s go over each vehicle and their strengths to help you decide which Axial vehicle is right for you to start with. We have to warn you, it might not be easy to choose, but as your hobby grows there is another selection at Axial to meet your needs.

SCX10

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The SCX10™ platform is an already proven chassis-of-choice for scale enthusiasts around the globe. If you can hike there, your SCX10™ will drive there! With today’s efficient motor and long lasting batteries, you are only limited by your imagination and/or your physical readiness to adventure out onto a hike while driving your SCX10™. It’s a great way to get in touch with nature and spend time with friends and family while having a ton of fun doing so!
The SCX10 features a tough metal c-channel frame, proven axle design, low-CG transmission, ready to run electronics that has the power to tackle rough trail driving and backyard bashing. The SCX10 is topped off by a body that screams go for an adventure and licensed tires are ready to grip any surface.

WHO IS IT FOR: Off-road trail adventurer looking for a vehicle that can reach speeds of a brisk walking pace.
KIT OR RTR: Ready To Run
PRICE RANGE: $299.99
STYLES: AX90044 SCX10™ Deadbolt™

SCX10 II

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The SCX10™ II is the culmination of many years of development, furthering aesthetic realism while maximizing trail performance. The SCX10™ II features an all-metal twin c-channel frame rails, but that’s only 2% of the 98% of a completely new design. Scale AR44™ high pinion axles, a chassis mounted servo (CMS), re-designed transmission, front mounted battery tray, all aluminum suspension links, and a properly designed suspension for nearly zero bump steer. These are just a few of the features built into the all new SCX10™ II.

WHO IS IT FOR: Like the SCX10, the SCX10 II is for the Off-road trail adventurer looking for a vehicle that can reach speeds of a brisk walking pace and tackle terrain that is a bit more aggressive.
KIT OR RTR: Kit and Ready To Run
PRICE RANGE: $329.99 to $409.99
STYLES: AX90059 SCX10 II™ Trail Honcho, AX90060 SCX10 II™ 2017 Jeep® Wrangler Unlimited CRC, AX90047 SCX10 II™ 2000 Jeep® Cherokee, AX90046 SCX10 II™ 2000 Jeep® Cherokee – Kit

YETI Jr.

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With the Yeti Jr.™ SCORE® Trophy Truck® – RTR, everything that existing Axial drivers have come to love and appreciate in the Yeti chassis, has been incorporated into a machine only now in 1/18th scale. It’s powered by a 380-sized brushed motor which provides the perfect amount of torque and speed for this tiny Trophy Truck® monster. Also featuring an all-in-one programmable Tactic ESC and receiver, paired with a 3-wire micro high torque steering servo. At the end of the day, the goal was to build a simple, fun, and easy to drive Yeti that anyone can handle. The hardest part about the Yeti Jr.™ SCORE® Trophy Truck® is making sure you have enough battery packs charged in order to keep the adventure alive!

WHO IS IT FOR: For those working with smaller running spaces but still demand maximum terrain bashing performance.
KIT OR RTR: Ready To Run Only
PRICE RANGE: $159.99
STYLES: AX90052 Yeti Jr.™ SCORE® Trophy Truck®, AX90054 Yeti Jr.™

YETI 1/10-

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Available in kit or ready to run form, the Yeti™ SCORE® Trophy Truck® is a purposely engineered desert truck with a solid rear axle and independent front suspension. Make no bones about it, this is not a short course truck nor is it designed for the sugar coated and manicured racetracks of R/C. This Trophy Truck is designed for the roughest of conditions and REAL DIRT. We beg for the dirt and rocks to be brought back to off-road! There are reasons why full size Trophy Trucks feature the four link suspension design; durability, capability, and improved forward bite without sacrificing suspension travel. Full-size Trophy Trucks inspired the distinct aesthetic and technical elements of this truck, right down to the solid rear axle. The retro inspired body features design queues from a 1960’s era roof-line, classic 1970’s wheel arches and glass shapes from the 1980’s. Giving this kit an extra bit of modern contrast comes in the form of fluorescent orange Method 105 wheels. This kit version will accept standard 1/10th scale brushed and brushless 4-pole systems and most major stick pack batteries. Precision machined aluminum shocks are standard equipment and deliver smooth suspension movement for consistent handling.

WHO IS IT FOR: The Yeti is exactly what it sounds like, a beast on the terrain. This off-road performer is fast and can handle anything from loose dirt to rugged rocky surfaces.
KIT OR RTR: Kit or Ready To Run
PRICE RANGE:
STYLES: AX90068 Yeti™ SCORE® Trophy Truck®, AX90050 Yeti™ SCORE® Trophy Truck®, AX90025 Yeti™ buggy kit, AX90026 Yeti™ RTR

YETI ⅛-

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The Axial Yeti XL™ Monster Buggy – a new category, a new frontier, a new dimension. From the beginning of the concept through the design phase, we drew upon our brand philosophy to develop and deliver something different to the R/C monster truck arena. Monster trucks are known for bashability, so we jumped head first into the segment by creating a vehicle with insane brushless power along with features that would allow it to withstand the abuse that comes with the territory. From the outset, the goal of maintaining brand heritage was a priority. Our research and development team took those traits and attributes, mixed them with the Axial design ethos which is heavily rooted in full size rock racing, and developed what could be considered the next level in R/C monster truck design.

WHO IS IT FOR: Size matters and if you need to go big, go bold and have loads of power on tap to obliterate the terrain than the Yeti XL is the perfect fit for your aggressive driving nature.
KIT OR RTR: Kit
PRICE RANGE: $499.99
STYLES: AX90038 Yeti™ XL Buggy

RR10

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The RR10 Bomber is a build-it-yourself kit and is offered in ready to run form too and is considered the ultimate rock racer! The kit version features hard anodized aluminum suspension links, hard anodized aluminum steering links, long travel rear sway bar, hardened steel universal axles allowing up to 50 degrees of steering, aluminum lower link plates, and King adjustable machined aluminum shocks, all riding on sticky BFGoodrich® Baja T/A® KR2 tires wrapped around 2.2 Walker Evans Racing beadlock wheels. We’ve also included heavy duty bevel gears in the front and rear axles for improved gear mesh, and increased strength.

WHO IS IT FOR: Want to get the experience of driving like the rigs you see at the King Of Hammers, but without the price tag of the full scale machine or the build hours. The RR10 can deliver the excitement of raw power and rock thrashing, just on a smaller scale.
KIT OR RTR: Kit or Ready To Run
PRICE RANGE: $359.99- $399.99
STYLES: AX90053 RR10 Bomber Kit, AX90048 RR10 Bomber RTR

WRAITH

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The Wraith™ Ready-to-Run 1/10th Scale Electric 4WD Rock Racer is another “FIRST” for Axial with the first and most realistic full tube-frame chassis design that is manufactured with high strength composite materials. The Wraith™ IS BUILT TO GO FAST and is not just a low speed rock crawler. Each style of Wraith is packed with performance features and option parts that you add as you build it. The virtually bulletproof AR60 OCP axles are ready to take the Spawn through its paces whether blasting through the wide open desert or hammering its way through the toughest rock trails. The 2.2 Maxxis Trepador tires are a proven true grip standard, wrapped around industry proven Method IFD™ beadlock wheels. Whether you are rock racing or backyard bashing, the Wraith™ Spawn is ready for action.

WHO IS IT FOR: Looking for the best of many off-road worlds? The Wraith is a proven rock racer that can also dominate the hiking trails with high speed performance and suspension that adapts to a variety of environments.
KIT OR RTR: Kit or Ready To run
PRICE RANGE: $329.99- $399.99
STYLES: AX90045 Wraith Spawn, AX90031 Jeep® Wrangler Wraith-Poison Spyder Rock Racer, AX90018 Wraith RTR, AX90056 Wraith Spawn Kit

SMT10

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Monster trucks are a never ending automotive attraction that captures anyone’s attention and the trucks featured in Monster Jam®. Axial went all out when designing the chassis and roll cage for the SMT10™ Monster Jam® Truck. Very similar to modern era full size monster trucks, this chassis was developed for maximum strength and an extremely detailed appearance. The truck also features tough AR60, long travel aluminum body shocks, licensed BKT tires and the styling to ensure you have a true mini Monster Jam experience.

WHO IS IT FOR: If you’re determined to crush anything in your RC vehicles path from a row of cans, backyard flower beds or just go out for some general big wheel bashing, the SMT10 can handle anything you would expect from a Monster Jam style truck.
KIT OR RTR: Ready To Run Only
PRICE RANGE: $329.99
STYLES: AX90057 MAX-D Monster Jam Truck, AX90055 Grave Digger Monster Jam Truck

SCX10 II Trail Honcho Truck Tips & Tricks For Noobs

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Getting your RC adventure underway has never been easier with the well equipped, affordable SCX10 II Trail Honcho ready to run. This revival of the original Honcho body, from the famed SCX10, now features an updated electronics package combined with improved SCX10 II platform. It’s aimed at getting anyone into the hobby and on the trails with success. It of course is also a great truck for the seasoned enthusiast. But our focus here is on the many who will pick up an RC transmitter for the first time with the Trail Honcho and we want their first adventure to be the best of many trail driving experiences to come. Here we’ll go over all the basics from the unboxing to checking over your rig for its first run, tips for your first drive and tricks to keep it in proper running order.
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UNBOX
Before just diving into your new RC adventure, take the time to unbox and educate yourself about everything that encompases your new Honcho kit. Inside the box, you’ll need to cut the zip-ties securing the truck to the inner box support. Remove the radio from it’s packaging and dip into the bag with instructions and accessories. The most important step here is to read the manual. Although we’re walking you through the paces here, it is always best to familiarize yourself with the manual in case you have any questions in the future. After your up to par with manual, take a look at what is included with the kit. You’ll find a bag of “extra parts” these parts are unused during the assembly of the kit and may be used for future projects once you get hooked on your Axial adventures and trust us, you will get hooked. There will also be some basic tools in the kit, these should be transferred to your adventure backpack as they make great tools for on-trail repairs. And finally you’ll notice some green “domes” we’ll talk about this later.

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GET IT RUNNING
We’re moving onto the fun part; getting your Honcho going. First remove the four body clips that secure the body to the chassis, remove the body completely and set it aside. Now you can access the battery tray. At some point at your local hobby shop or online, you’ve purchased a battery and charger for the rig. Locate the battery tray and unhook the Velcro strap. Slide your charged battery into the tray and secure the velcro back in place to retain the battery. Next move to the transmitter and install four AA batteries that you supply into the radio. Power the radio on using the switch on the face of the radio. Now move back to the SCX10 II and plug in the battery. The battery plug is your on/off switch for the truck. Tip: The radio is always on first and off last. Your SCX10 II is now powered up and ready to go after placing the body back on the truck and securing it with the four clips.

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RUNNING CHECK
Head outdoors and place the Honcho on the ground for a quick systems check. The electronics should be dialed in from the factory, but things can happen. You’ll want to check to make sure your trims are set properly. First is your truck moving on its own when you power it up? If so, you will need to use the throttle trim on your radio to reset your neutral point. Use either button for throttle trim to find the neutral. If you tap the trim on one side and the truck starts moving more, it means you’ll need to use the opposite button to get the throttle back to neutral. Keep tapping the button until the car stops (is at its neutral point.) With the throttle set, check to see if the truck tracks straight. With the vehicle pointing away from you, give the truck a little throttle. Note if the truck tends to “drift” towards the left or right. If so, use your steering trim to find the neutral point of the steering in a similar fashion to the throttle adjustment.
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GET THE FEEL
Wait! Now that your truck is trimmed, you probably have the urge to pin the throttle and see what the truck can do. We’ll get there. First start by driving slow in a figure eight pattern. This means giving the truck a little bit of throttle trigger input and steering the truck in a figure eight pattern; turn the wheel right, go straight a bit, turn the wheel to the left, repeat. This will help you get a feel for how the steering feels reversed when coming towards you. When the truck is going away from you, steering the radio wheel to the right will always turn the truck to the right, but will feel reversed coming back towards you. Get a feel for the throttle range in both forwards and reverse. Note: the throttle is not an on/off switch and is proportional. In trail truck driving much of your rock crawling adventures will happen at a slower speed.
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TACKLE YOUR FIRST OBSTACLE
Before going out and driving on the gnarliest terrain you can find, practice on something less harsh. Find small hills or rocks with a slight incline to drive on. First drive straight up and down the obstacle. Note the amount of throttle it takes to make the incline and how the drag brake in the speed control affects the decline. Next drive up on an angle. Like a real vehicle, the trucks center of gravity may want to cause the truck to roll over. Determining the type of angle you can drive on before the truck wants to roll over is all a part of developing driving skill.

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DRIVE POINTS
With a general feel of how the Honcho drives, you can venture out for tougher obstacles. Find steeper inclines, off-set rock ledges, varying rock surfaces and use your newfound vehicle control to try and get your truck over the terrain. Think about where the wheels need to be places on rocks, how much steering you need to use, how much throttle and where will the truck be positioned when you’ve tackled what’s in front of you. Remember, you need to set yourself up for the next obstacle too. Then it will become time to refine your lines, challenge yourself and that’s where those little green domes come in that you found in the kit. These green things are gate markers and they are set on trail courses for your rig to pass through. They’re usually placed in positions that will challenge your skill. Find challenging parts on your trial and place these markers so you can practice driving through gates.

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ROLL OVERS
What happens when your truck rolls over? Well, in real life, if a truck rolls over, no big hand reaches down from the sky to flip it back over. So, you need to use vehicle control to try and right the truck. If the Honcho is completely upside down, try using throttle and steering to “wiggle” the truck over. Or towards a nearby object. The point is to get the wheels to grab onto something to help pull it back over. If the truck is on its side, you can turn into the ground and give it throttle. This will oftentimes pull the truck out of the roll over and back onto its wheels.

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FIND NEW ADVENTURES
The rest of your driver education is up to you. To improve your skill, try locating nearby parks or even an urban adventure away from the public. Finding new places to have an adventure each time you go out with the Honcho will improve your driving skill. But in the bigger picture, you’re also going out and finding new adventures for yourself. Adventures that will not only build skills and love for a hobby, but will also build memories.
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MAINTENANCE
Once your adventure outdoors is over, you’re not exactly done with your Honcho rig. A maintained rig is always a well performing rig. Take the time to remove any dirt and debris from the truck. A simple 2” paintbrush and a little elbow grease knocking off dirt from the truck can clean it up. Compressed air works as well. If your adventure lead you into the wetlands, take a look at our Driveline Maintenance Tips to help you with your clean-up procedures.
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OPTIONS
At some point, You’ll want to join the custom club. Installing option parts to make your honcho stand out or to make it more durable for the adventures you’ll put the rig through. Here are five option parts we recommend you take a look at when taking your SCX10 II Honcho to the next level.  

Gear Set (48P 28T, 48P 52T)
Part- AX31585
If you read the story of the Honcho taking on the Redonda Ridge Adventure, you saw the rough terrain eventually took its toll on the transmission gears. Luckily this is an inexpensive upgrade up to steel gears if you feel your truck needs it.

Aluminum Servo Horn 25T (Hard Anodized)
Part- AX30836
The steering is among one of the most abused parts of any vehicle. Swapping the stock plastic servo horn for the aluminum option could prevent any unwanted steering issues on the trail.

M4 Serrated Nylon Lock Nut
Part- AXA1046
For obvious reasons the wheels endure a lot of abuse during use. This on occasion can lead to a wheel nut backing off. The locking serrated nuts grab onto the wheels for extra security.

SCX10 TR Links Set – 12.3″ (313mm) WB
Part- AX30550
Although the links on the SCX10 II Honcho have been greatly improved over the previous units on the SCX10, upgrading to aluminum links is a popular upgrade for many adventurers.

Steering Upgrade Kit
Part- AX30426
Like the suspension links, the stock plastic steering link can take a lot of abuse and flex during use. In this set, you can use the long link to upgrade your SCX10 II.

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KEEP IT INTERESTING
With your new found hobby and new found key to adventure, keep things interesting by continuing to drive on new trails, build new courses in your backyard, continually modify and upgrade your Honcho to reflect you, your likes and interests. Every day is a new adventure behind the wheel of the Honcho and can give you new found enjoyment outdoors while learning new sets of skill. When you do conquer a new challenge, be certain to document your experience with a photo on social media and give it the hashtag #AxialAdventures so other adventurers can see what you’re up to.

 

Desert Turtle Racing KOH 2018 Race Recap

Desert Turtle Racing KOH 2018 Race Recap

KOH 2018 Race Week:
First and foremost, we were stoked to be setting up our pits in the Lasernut Laser Town hanger. We arrived at Laser Town and got the Turtle set up in the hanger and set up all our camp stuff. We did a little last minute shock tuning on the Rock Krawler shocks to get them dialed in for race day, then headed over to get registered for the race. Monday was our qualifying day and in practice we discovered that the motor was running not so peppy. We learned that we had to shift to 4-Lo just to get up the hill climb and then shift back into 4-Hi to finish the lap. It hurt our qualifying times a bit but we were still able to get an 11th in class start for Thursday’s race. We also discovered that we had a melted coil pack and spark plug that were causing the engine to run poorly. We were able to get in a run around Lap 1 of the KOH course and mark down some trouble spots on GPS as well as set up our lines to get through the new “Notches” area that Ultra4 added to the course this year. We were feeling pretty good about the course of Lap 1 and the car was running well. We headed out for a pre-run of Lap 2 and got through a couple trails but unfortunately cracked the oil pan on a couple big hits and that caused us to call the pre-running extremely short. A big part of our pit support this year was provided by Dust Junkies Racing and they just so happened to be near where we broke down and gave us a helping hand to get back to Laser Town. We spent the rest of our pre-running time hunting down an oil pan and making repairs to the rig and studying the course map.

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KOH 2018 EMC Race Day:
Let’s just start with, the green flag dropped and we were off and running! Darin was behind the wheel and ready to attack the desert lap. The first few miles had us on edge, knowing that race nerves can cause you to overdrive the rig and/or potentially suffer flats. As we clicked off the early miles we passed many rigs that had suffered exactly that, and a couple others with some quick driving decisions. We were able to maintain a good pace and cruise through unscathed. As we passed by RM12 we felt the rig was doing well. We radioed to Dust Junkies at Remote Pit 1 that we didn’t need a tire change and opted pass through without a stop. They responded with “Well done. We’ll catch you on the flip side at RM48”. We waved on the way by the pits and were feeling great about the rig. We kept clicking off the miles, passing other racers along the way. As we arrived at “The Notches” a little ways past RM24 we followed a couple other rigs into the banner area. Again, we passed a few others that were floundering in the rocks not knowing where to go. We stuck to our pre-planned route and managed to maneuver around a couple more. As we exited, we were on the tail of a 4800 rig and we decided to go for the pass in a whooped-out section to the drivers left. We made the pass, but we also went for a good ride when the front end got bucked pretty high, and we were reminded that we needed to tone it back.

 

We got back on our pace as we rounded the half-way point at RM32, and we continued carrying a good pace, picking our way through the tight desert section before reaching RM47, where we again needed to radio to the Dust Junkies at Remote Pit 1 what our plans were. We chatted for a bit about how the rig was doing, we were not hearing any strange sounds, and we again didn’t need to stop for a tire change. We hit the pit zone and again gave the big thumbs up as we passed by. Heading out crossing the base line we knew the speeds were going to pick up as we rounded the big bend at RM52. Around RM54 we had a close encounter with a bird — this bird was about 20 feet off the deck and clocking us for speed about 50 feet off the front passenger corner of the rig. At least it seemed that close. So we mashed the gas to pick up the pace and see what they would do. We gave them the applause and enjoyed the camera man hanging off the side of the helicopter. Let’s hope it makes the cut into some footage somewhere.

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We reached the intersection at the baseline exit and headed out across the dry, dusty Melville lakebed. At times we couldn’t see much more than a few feet in front of us. Picking our way up into the top of Resolution, preparing for our drop down it and Backdoor, we knew we had just a couple more miles before we were back to Main. We had a bit of a close call at Backdoor — we got in a little bit of a hurry to prevent another rig from passing us and did a great nose pose with the rear tires straight up in the air. We hit the gas to prevent the roll-over and hit the rear bumper hard on the rock wall behind us… BUT we were down and all four wheels and the rig was still moving. We called in to pits that we were down but took a hard hit and would need to look the rig over really well. We made the last of the little climbs before hitting the short course and the Main Pits. At this point we were pretty stoked Darin just had a VERY clean run on Lap 1 and suffered ZERO flats with our Falken tires. We had a feeling that we were sitting in a pretty good position and it was time to change drivers.

And so the race continues… Lap 2 — Randall is now in the driver’s seat and ready to take on the rock sections. Before we got there, we had to run through the first 8 miles of the Lap 1 again, and then around the desert for another 9 miles before reaching Remote Pit 2A. Again, we kept a descent pace intent on not overdriving the rig. As we reached Remote Pit 2A the rig was feeling pretty good and we called in to let them know that we would just be passing by. We headed into the first rock trail, Boulder Dash, and made pretty quick work of it. We headed down Upper Big Johnson and continued across the valley and around to the bottom of Wrecking Ball. While we were in Wrecking Ball we had a few difficulties leading up to the waterfall but cruised right up the bypass line and continued on. At RM85 we headed over to Fissure Mountain to run across the top of the range and down to Sledgehammer. Another new thing for the Ultra4 race this year was the addition of two trails at RM90, Idle Issues and Her Problem, two trails that I did not get to pre-run nor even see. As we approached the trail we saw the trail markers but the terrain looked untraveled and there were no obvious lines. There was no stopping us on this trail we picked it apart, as if we were cutting a new trail. We had a little trouble getting through Chocolate Thunder but were able to keep our cool and get back on track.

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Once we got over into Jack North we felt something strange in the steering and decided we should stop and take a look. What we discovered was the mount on the axle for the Hydro Assist Ram has been torn off and the Ram was just hanging there cycling left and right. We also discovered that all of the drive flange bolts on the rear axle (BOTH SIDES!) had backed out and we were leaking a ton of gear oil. We tightened up the flange bolts, removed the hydro-ram and capped the hydro lines so we could continue the race. We wheeled up to the crux of Jack North and, like a replay of last year, Darin got out and spotted the rigs through and then got us through and we headed for Jack Hammer. The problem with not having Hydro Assist is that every rock the tires come in contact with will jolt the tires one way or another and that makes it very difficult to steer and stay on the line that you need to get over the rocks. Coming down Jack Hammer we made sure to plan way ahead and keep the car on the right line. Heading up the sand hills at RM93 was pretty fun with the new motor screaming as we made our way. We got around to Hells Gate and continued to struggle with the ability to steer and stay on the right line. Thankfully we had a new ZEON 10 winch from Warn on the rig to get us quickly un-stuck when necessary.

We cruised down Devils Slide and headed over into Sunbonnet Pass. We came upon a few other rigs in the trail and made passes when we could but also got stuck a few times, and again had to use the winch to get unstuck. Somewhere in Sunbonnet we got lodged between two big rocks and had to use our jack to get out, which cost us a significant amount of time. At that point we also discovered that we had cracked the oil pan again and it is was dripping. We took some time to look at the leak and see if we could spot the crack. We debated continuing the race with the leak but the concern was, if we cracked the oil pan even worse, we could damage the motor and possibly be stuck in a trail until the race is over. We agreed that we would make our way out of Sunbonnet and then reassess the condition of the rig. It’s always a hard decision to make but we had to make it. We decided to make our way to the stock bypass split at RM100 and call the race. We didn’t want to risk severe damage to the motor and didn’t want a late-night team recovery after the race. We got in touch with our pit crew at Remote Pit 2B and had them relay to Race Ops that we were out of the race at RM100.

Conclusion:
We finished our race as the 1st place DNF, putting us officially in 4th place by progression. Yes, you read that right — There were only three 4500 class rigs that finished the race, and only another nine rigs in the 4800 class. This race was a difficult one — Not because of the number of rock trails or a difficult desert lap, but because Mother Nature has not rained on the Hammer trails in some time, and that caused the dirt to be very dusty and the rocks to be covered in dust, and some holes to be extra deep.

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We would like to give a special thanks to several sponsors – To Off Road Development for providing the shop space for us to get ready for KOH. To Sucuri Security for stepping on board to support the team this year. To Warn for going above and beyond standard customer service to solve our winching issues. To Dust Junkies Racing for providing pit space and pit support at the race. To Lasernut for providing us space in the Laser Town Hanger at KOH. To Rock Krawler for their continued support in our race program. To Falken for providing ZERO flats this year on the Wildpeak M/T tires. And to our DTR team… Without them we would not be able to do what we do. We are a team that is more like a family and we are all in it together. Even though we did not finish, we did not lose. We come away smarter and stronger. We are still a young team and we continue to learn at every race.

Thanks to all of our sponsors for your continued support: Rock Krawler Suspension | Falken Tire | Sucuri Security | Axial Racing | Poison Spyder Customs | Raceline Wheels | DJ Safety | Fuel Safe | Rugged Radios | J. E. Reel | Rugged Routes | Lasernut | Currie Enterprises | Magnaflow | CTM Racing | sPOD | Artec Industries | PRP Seats | Luxwurx | Warn | Sharq Skinz | DGP Motion Media | Factor55 | 212 Performance Gloves | Off Road Development | Pacific Advisors | SoCal Services | Beachview Insurance | Villa Landscape Products | SoCal Land Maintenance | EctoVentures

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How To: Power Your Axial LED Lights

HowToPowerYour_Axial_LED_Lights

Lighting in a scale truck is pretty much mandatory nowadays. The new Jeep Rubicon Unlimited CRC and Honcho both feature factory equipped lights and the new AE5-L speed control to power the lights. However, if you don’t have one of those specific models, there are still plenty of optional LED lights available from the Axial line-up to customize your specific trail rig. Like many LED light sets on the market, each set has their own designated use and may need specific power setups in order for them to work properly. In this Axial LED overview, we’re going to take a look at the individual light sets and appropriate power sources and controllers so you know what is compatible when going to equip your rig with lights.

SET OPTIONS

NVS

NVS – Night Visions System
Part- AX24251
The NVS kit gives you everything you need to give your rig a full custom lit look. Headlights, tail lights, marker lights and most importantly a power and control module. This system comes with the power module that will provide the correct power for the included LED light strings. Power to the module is provided by an in-line adapter that goes between the battery and ESC.

POWERED BY: Included in-line adapter (Note: Plugs may need to be exchanged depending on existing speed control and battery plug type)

AX24257
Simple LED Controller w/LED lights (4 white and 2 red)
Part- AX24257
This Simple LED Controller includes 4 bright white LED’s, AX24258, and 2 bright red LED’s, AX24253. Other light strands compatible with the controller are: AX24252, AX24253, AX24254, AX24255, AX24256, and AX24258. Controller can power two 2 or 4 LED Strings only.
POWERED BY: Open Receiver Port (CH 3, Aux, etc.)
NOTE: NOT COMPATIBLE WITH AE-5L ESC

STRING OPTIONS

8-String LED

8 LED Light String (White LED)
Part- AX31098
This light string works pefectly with the AX31152 Axial LED light bar or other custom applications. This specific light string requires the AX31097 3 port high output LED controller to power it.
NOTE: NOT COMPATIBLE WITH AE-5L ESC

Double LED Light String

Double LED Light String (White LEDs)
Part-  AX24252
The perfect LED set for headlights. This light string can only be powered by the Axial NVS – Night Visions System – AX24251  and/or Simple LED Controller- AX24257.
NOTE: NOT COMPATIBLE WITH AE-5L ESC

Double LED Light String (Red LED)

Double LED Light String (Red LED)
Part- AX24253
Often used for tail lights, the Double Red LED String must be used with Axial NVS – Night Visions System – AX24251 and/or Simple LED Controller- AX24257 installed for vehicles that do not include light strings.
NOTE: NOT COMPATIBLE WITH AE-5L ESC

Double LED Light String (Orange LED)

Double LED Light String (Orange LED)
Part- AX24254
Double Orange  LED light strings for turn signals; these are powered either by
the Axial NVS – Night Visions System – AX24251 and/or the Simple LED Controller- AX24257.
NOTE: NOT COMPATIBLE WITH AE-5L ESC

Single LED Light String (White LED)

Single LED Light String (White LED)
Part- AX24255
Additional/replacement LED light string. Must have Axial NVS – Night Visions System – AX24251 and/or Simple LED Controller- AX24257 installed for vehicles that do not include these light strings.
NOTE: NOT COMPATIBLE WITH AE-5L ESC

 

5 LED Light String (White LED)

5 LED Light String (White LED)
Part- AX24256
5 LED light string for auxiliary lights (White LED). Must have Axial NVS – Night Visions System – AX24251 and/or Simple LED Controller- AX24257 installed for vehicles that do not include these light strings.
NOTE: NOT COMPATIBLE WITH AE-5L ESC

AX24258

4 LED Light String (White LED)
Part- AX24258
Must have Axial NVS – Night Visions System – AX24251 and/or Simple LED Controller- AX24257 installed for vehicles that do not include these light strings.
NOTE: NOT COMPATIBLE WITH AE-5L ESC

POWER CONTROL

3-port controller
3 Port High Output LED Controller
Part- AX31097
Compatible with Axial’s 8 LED string (AX31098) in the HO port. A 2 or 4 LED string can run off of the two additonal ports. This light controller fills the gap between the basic simple LED kit (AX24257) and the full blown Night Vision System (AX24251). It has the ability to power 3 separate LED strings and Includes harness extension for removing the body.
NOTE: NOT COMPATIBLE WITH AE-5L ESC or 5-LED String AX24256

ACCESSORY SETS

Universal 5 Bucket Light Bar Set
Part- AX30709
Axial’s new Universal 5 Bucket Light Bar Set comes with a complete set of screws and plastic parts designed for a variety of Axial vehicles as well as a universal system for additional mounting applications. The light bar’s tubular design gives your vehicle cool scale looks and each light bucket can be outfitted with an LED light to help guide the way on those late night runs (LED lights sold separately).The set also includes three different mesh grilles for your lights: plain, Axial and officially licensed PIAA grill covers. PIAA is a registered trademark of PIAA Corporation.

Options:
AX24251 – NVS Night Vision System with LED lights
AX24257 – Simple LED controller with LED lights
AX24256 – Axial 5 LED light string

Universal Rigid Light Bar Set
Axial LED light bar, officially licensed by Rigid Industries!
Part- AX31152

This molded plastic housing includes three different length light bars, hardware, universal mounting brackets, clear LED lenses and Instructions. For use with optional AX31098 8 LED Light String (White LED) and AX31097 3 Port High Output LED Controller.

Light Bucket Set (Black)

Light Bucket Set
Part- AX80045
Get custom and add lights where you want to. This set includes seven different styles of light buckets with plastic lenses in clear and yellow to hold 5mm and 3mm LED lights.

POWER SOURCES

Now that we have some of your options out of the way it’s time to talk about where to tap into the power on your rig in order to light up those LED’s

Receiver Power- Units like the 3 Port High Output LED Controller can be powered from the receiver. A extension plug is provided to plug into any open port on the receiver. Be aware that the receivers voltage may be regualted and may not power the controller correctly. As a result the lights may appear dim. In this case you may need to direct wire the controller.

Direct Power- The NVS includes an adapter to receive power directly from your rigs main battery. This ensures the unit receives the voltage necessary to light up the LED’s. Direct power connections is another way of hooking up other controllers or LED systems to power the LED’s. To do this, an extension wire needs to be soldered to the positive and negative battery wire solder posts, or wires, or connectors on the ESC. Now, when you plug in your battery, your LED lights will instantly illuminate unless you decide to solder in an in-line switch as well.

Even with all of the information above, your personal alterations to your electronics may have an effect on your LED lighting. Other factors can include battery voltage. When making changes to your vehicle beyond what is described, be aware that additional testing may need to take place in order to make your system work properly.

LED Light How To