Axial RECON G6 – Trifolium Event Report – Grass Valley, CA

RECON G6 Trifolium

March 16, 2013

Greenhorn Campground, Rollins Lake, Grass Valley, California

In celebration of St. Patrick’s Day, the RECON crew packed up and headed out to Rollins Lake in Grass Valley, California.  This was a new location for a RECON G6, so I was eager to check it out.

While paying my day fee at the honor box, I spotted this familiar sight.

The G Crew were already there and many eager G6ers were lining up to register.

As usual, I looked around to see what interesting things I could spot in the parking lot. First thing I spotted was this Half Cab FJ.  I do love the Half Cabs.

I also saw this pretty sweet 6X6.  That’s a lot of link going on there.

The Pham Mobile pulled up.  He was loaded up with lots of goodies.

While checking out Pham’s trucks, I noticed this sweet Chassis Mounted Steering setup on his SCX10 JK.  These will be available from Vanquish Products soon. You can also see the replica Currie Axles in the photo.  Pham always has the cool stuff.

I also spotted these sweet Wraith axles.  They are GCM A-13 MetalHead axles.  You can get them in center or offset pumpkin.

This Dingo/Land Rover had an interesting body trim.

I snooped around the RECON trailer and found these new shirts.  Are you certified?

Remember this guy?  This is Daniel Siegel.  He lives in Austria, but has been bitten by the G6 bug.  This is his second trip to get his G6 on. He is definitely G6 Certified. Will we see him at Axialfest?

This crew was definitely in the St. Patty’s spirit.  Team Green FTW!

Parker gave his usual pre-start driver’s meeting instructions.  This was an extra long one since there were quite a few new G6ers in attendance.  There were 94 entries, Wowzers!

Once everyone lit their lipos, it was off and running to the lake.  First task was to drop off your boat before heading out on to the trail.

The first part of the trail was along the lake shore.  You know you will be getting wet when Parker sets up a trail.

It was pretty green over here. Must have been a St. Patty’s Day thing.

Around the backside of the trail, the grass turned to this really tacky, gritty rock.  It appeared igneous in nature.  Plenty of traction was to be had.

About halfway through the trial was this sandy climb. It created a bit of a back up. It was good for me.  It gave me time to take photos.

It took some winching to make it up.

After clearing that hill, the third part of trail was an uphill jaunt through the brush.

Keep climbing.

Almost there.

Phew, finally the top.

The Pull Pal Posse Posed for a Picture.

You may have noticed a lot of young ones on the trail.  I did. Even infants can G6.

Pilot and Navigator.  G6ing is family fun.

Hmm, right hand drive? That must be the JK Euro Edition.

After the climb, the hiking got easier as you descended the fourth section.

At the bottom of the hill was the Get A Hobby crew. They had a little shop set up.  Special thanks to the G.A.H. crew for fixing my daughter’s Wraith while I was running in the Ultra class.

The Get A Hobby Crew set up a special skills section.

The high light of the G.A.H. Skills Course was the zip line.  The what? Yes, a zip line.

After the zip line, drivers had a little walk back to G Central.  Hope you packed an extra battery.

Don’t think you are done.  The Austrian Arena had to be conquered before finishing.

Awards time.  Remember that Finishing a RECON G6 is like winning a RECON G6, so even if you didn’t get an award, you are still a winner.

And of course, we must thank all the sponsors that donate finishing prizes. Axial Racing, Pull Pal, Pitbull Tires, Vanquish, PLE, Rock Armor, BPC, Fast Eddie, Kling On, Get A Hobby, and everyone who helps out.

If you ever see this trailer headed down the road, just follow it.  A good time will be had wherever it stops.


Battery Relocation – SCX10 Jeep RTR

We have been getting a few requests recently for a “step by step” tutorial on relocating the battery from its stock location in the rear on the SCX10-JK, to the front. This is a simple modification that can really transform how your rig performs in the rocks. Moving weight from the back to the front of a vehicle greatly enhances its ability to climb steep rock faces. This is a no brainer for me, as I am all about performance with my rigs regardless if they are scale or comp rigs. So let’s dig in!

I am using a “kit” SCX10-JK for this article, but the steps are exactly the same for the kit and RTR Jeeps. A couple shots of the battery tray in stock RTR form.

First thing we need to do is remove the two screws holding the metal battery tray to the chassis.

With the metal tray removed you can access the screws that hold the plastic base of the battery tray.

Remove the two screws that hold the base of the battery tray to the chassis cross-member, located between the rear shock towers.

Next remove the two screws that tie the radio box to the front chassis cross-member.

Locate the bag of plastic extras that is included with the RTR Jeep. Inside there are a few parts required to complete this modification.

Find two of the three battery tray posts in your bag of extras. These will be the main supports for the tray in its new location.

Now grab the parts tree numbered AX80009 from your bag of extras. Cut item #5 off the parts tree. We will use this spacer for the front of the battery tray.

The hardware required for the relocation.

The two main support screws should measure just over an inch.

The front screw needs to be shorter and should measure in the 5/8″ range.

Insert the two long screws in the holes closest to center of the plastic battery tray base, then slide the plastic battery tray posts over the screws.

While holding the spacers on the screws, set the battery base into place so the two long screws line up with the radio box holes. Tighten the screws down until they are snug.

Now grab your short front spacer and set it into place over the front frame cross-member’s molded boss.

Set the metal battery tray into place on the plastic base and install the shorter 5/8″ long screw through the front of the whole assembly.

Install the short flathead screw that holds the metal tray to the plastic base at the rear.

And you are done! A shot of the newly relocated battery tray.

Following these simple steps to move the battery will greatly improve on your SCX10′s already amazing capabilities. Time to go hit the trails!!

Axial – ICON Vehicle Dynamics 61-90mm Aluminum Shocks – Step by Step Build

AX30103 – Icon 61-90mm Aluminum Shock Set – 7mm piston (2pcs)

Now that we have released Axial’s newest scale shocks, which are officially licensed by Icon Vehicle Dynamics, I wanted to take some time to do a step by step build here on the blog to help people get the most out of their new shocks. These shocks are an improvement over our old SCX10 shocks, because of the new fully machined shock piston. The new piston provides a tighter fit inside the shock body which helps eliminate binds as the shock cycles through its travel. The new Icon shock bodies and reservoirs are clear anodized for durability and classic looks, which is a nice touch. Time to dig in and get our hands dirty!

A shot of the packaging. Each package contains all parts and hardware required to build two complete shocks.

I cut all the plastic parts I will need to get started off their respective parts trees.

Open the hardware bags and dump the contents out in a secure location so you don’t loose any vital parts.

Start by locating your aluminum shock bodies and the red o-rings. Apply a little grease to each o-ring before installing them into the shock bodies.

Once you have the o-ring lubed up drop it into place in the bottom of the shock body.

Now locate the plastic spacer that goes in between the o-rings, and install that on top of the first o-ring.

Grease the 2nd o-ring and install it into place on top of the plastic spacer in the shock body.

Next install the lower plastic cartridge and threaded preload adjuster onto the shock body.

Locate your shock shafts and e-clips next.

Install the first e-clip in the bottom slot on the shock shaft.

Slide the shock piston onto the shock shaft next.

Then, install the second e-clip to hold the piston in place.

Both shafts prepped and ready for the next step.

Now we can slide the shock shafts into the shock body from the top. Install the rubber bump stops and thread the rod ends into place as needed.

Apply the Icon decals to the shock reservoirs.

Using the supplied hardware, secure the shock reservoirs to the shock caps.

Insert the black o-rings into the shock cap, and make sure they are properly seated.

Now we will fill the shock body about 3/4 of the way with shock oil and cycle the shock piston to dissipate any and all air bubbles. Make sure the piston stays submersed in the oil while you cycle the shock to get rid of the air bubbles. Once the bubbles are gone fill the shock body until the oil is about 1/16th of an inch from the top of the shock body, so just shy of being full. Once the shock shaft is fully compressed, you should see the oil crown just above the top of the shock body. Screw the cap down tight while holding the shock shaft fully compressed. Once the cap is tight, wipe any excess oil away. Cycle the shock shaft a few times and listen for air bubbles. If you can hear air bubbles gurgling around inside the shock, start over and use a little more oil. Make sure all air bubbles are gone before re-assembling. If the shock shaft won’t compress all the way after this step, you have a little too much oil in the shock body. Remove the shock cap, and re-bleed the shock with a little less oil.

After you are finished bleeding the shock we can install the dual rate springs and spacers as needed.

Slide the springs over the shock body with the plastic spring retainer between the two springs.

Install the lower spring retainer next, and you are done!

That wraps up building Axial’s new fully licensed Icon shocks. Following these tips will help people get the most out of their new SCX10 shocks.

Build The Perfect Kit

The availability of ready-to-run products has had an incredibly positive impact on the RC hobby. Those looking to get into RC can do so quickly and easily thanks to preassembled vehicles such as the Honcho, Wraith, Ridgecrest and others. There is no denying that RTR vehicles have their place in this hobby. Axial, however, knows many enthusiasts want to experience building their own models. These are, after all, RC models. And, models and building go hand and hand.

As any carpenter can tell you, having the right tools can make all the difference. You do not need an entire tool kit or expensive collection to build an Axial kit as Axial includes the basics with its kits. Investing in quality tools is just that, an investment. To make assemble and maintenance go a lot faster and be a lot easier, hex drivers are highly recommended. Not only do hex drivers make the work easier, but they last significantly longer (and the tips are replaceable on brands such as Axial’s and Duratrax) and hex drivers are far less likely to strip out hex screws. Buying a complete set of hex drivers such as Axial’s metric set (includes five drivers) will get you all of the drivers you’re likely to ever need. If you want to buy the wrenches one at a time, start with a 2 mm, followed the by 1.5 mm and 2.5 mm drivers.

AX20008 Axial Metric Hex Driver Set

Since a majority of the parts you have to assemble on RC kit come attached to a molded plastic parts tree, another valuable tool is a plastic cutter. Hobbico’s Diagonal Cutter costs only about $10. These small cutters allow you to trim parts flush from the parts tree without cutting too deep or leaving jagged nubs on the parts.

Hobbico Diagonal Cutter HCAR0630

The L-shaped hex wrenches included in your kit are designed to get you started if needed. Do not replace them withsimilar tools found at hardware stores or discount tool stores.

Do not use any sort of power tools to assemble your kit. Over tightening screws can strip out parts and ruin them. Using hand tools allows you to feel how tight you’re getting screws and bolts. Power tools, even ones with clutches, often spin with too much force. They also remove your ability to feel when hardware is properly tightened.

Many an RC vehicles has been assembled at the kitchen table. That works, but an even better idea is to get a workspace that can be left undisturbed for the duration of the build. The more space you have the better. Also make sure you have plenty of light.

The best way to keep a build organized is to use small paper bowels for the different parts bags. Even better—but not a necessity—a trip to a discount parts store can get you a selection of magnetized metal trays in a variety of sizes.

> Have a dedicated place to build
> Make sure you have plenty of light
> Read the instructions before you start
> Reread each step before starting
> Take your time
> Make sure parts are trimmed flush
> Do not over tighten parts

Project Wrexo – Body Off Photos

Most of you have seen a couple sneak peek photos of the latest project I have been working on dubbed “Project Wrexo.” Here are a few more teaser shots for you to check out. More details will be released on this project soon, as well as some video. So stay tuned to Axial’s blog for the latest!