Axial at the Portland International Auto Show

Team Axial driver Ryan Gerrish attended the Int’l Auto Show in Portland, Oregon this past weekend. Ryan and fellow northwest crawler Brett Carlson set-up a small Axial booth at the show to demo some SCX10 TR’s, and allow fellow show attendees to take the wheel of an SCX10. Ryan’s dashing good looks scored him a small spot on the local news. Check the video!!

Keep an eye out for a more in depth blog post covering the auto show and it’s highlights.

XR10 Heavy Duty Machined Gear Install

We just received the new heavy duty machined gear sets and titanium gear shafts for the XR10 at the Axial warehouse. The new gears and shafts are CNC machined for the ultimate fit and finish, and include fresh drive pins and e-clips. These new gears and shafts are a lot stronger, and lighter, then the stock components too. Having less rolling resistance in the drive train equals more punch when trying to bump up and over an obstacle. It also equals a little more run time per battery pack too. It’s a rare win, win situation in the r/c crawling world.

Here is a quick step by step install of the new gears and shafts.

Start by removing your stock gearboxes from the axles.

Next, remove the motors from your gearboxes. In this photo you can see the stock powder metal gears and steel transfer shaft.

Here is a picture of the new gears and titanium shaft for the rear gearbox after removing them from their individual packaging.

Remove the gearbox cover.

Then remove the plastic gear case from the motor plate.

Remove the 2 stock powder metal gears that are sandwiched between the motor plate and the gear cap.

Using a sharp tool, pop the e-clip off the end of the gear shaft.

Pull the 36t gear off the end of the shaft and remove the drive pin.

Remove the bearing on the shaft from the motor plate. Now, slide the shaft out and remove it from the gearbox.

Remove the 22t drive gear from the top shaft. Again, use a sharp tool to remove the e-clip, then remove the gear and drive pin.

Grab the new titanium top shaft, and insert the drive pin.

Slide the new 22t drive gear over the shaft and onto the drive pin.

Re-install the e-clip to hold the drive gear in place.

Now slide the shaft back into the gearbox.

Insert the flange bearing into the motor plate, and slide the 36t drive pin into place.

Slide the 36t gear into place and re-install the e-clip.

Grab the 12t gear without the snap ring grove in it, a drive pin and another 36t gear.

Insert the drive pin into the 12t gear’s shaft, then slide the 36t gear into place over the pin.

Install the gear from the previous step into the gearbox assembly as shown.

For this step we have to assemble the “step gear”. Stock it is a one piece design, but the machined version is a two piece design. Grab the 12t gear with the snap ring groove in it. Install a drive pin into the shaft, and slide the last 36t gear over the pin.

Install the e-clip and bearing spacer last.

Set the stepped gear assembly into place inside the gearbox.

Re-install the plastic gear case over the gears. Double check to make sure the M3 Nylock nut hasn’t fallen out of the case.

Make sure all the bearings are still in the gear case cap. Then re-install the cap onto the gearbox.

Here you can see the finished gearbox with new titanium shafts and machined gears installed.

Number of gears needed to complete both axles:
6 – AX30770
2 – AX30771
2 – AX30767
2 – AX30768
2 – AX30769

Replacing the gears is pretty straight forward. But, we wanted to show an install just to have as a tutorial on our website. Thanks!

Upgrades for the SCX10, XR10 and RTC

We receive numerous questions from people asking what option parts they should upgrade to first. Half the fun of this hobby, to me, is wrenching and upgrading components. But, it can be tough to sort through information to see what upgrades are necessary. Some R/C upgrades in general are purely for looks, some are for better performance and a lot are for improved durability. Performance and durability are the two biggest reasons I upgrade my personal R/C’s, and I know there are a lot of people out there that have the same approach I do. So, I decided to come up with an upgrade list for each of our vehicles in order from most important to least important from my vantage point.

SCX10 Upgrades:
Aluminum Link Upgrade Kit (AX30549 for the Dingo, AX30550 for the Honcho)
Aluminum Knuckles and C-hubs (AX30495 C-hubs, AX30496 Knuckles)
Aluminum Shock Set (AX30090 x 2)
Steel Transmission Outputs (AX30544)
HD Ring and Pinion Set (AX30401 Front and/or AX30402 Rear)
CVD’s (AX30464)
Steel Pinion Gears (13t – AX30571, 14T – AX30569, 15T – AX30573)
1.9 Internal Weight Ring (AX30547)
1.9 Internal Weights (AX30548 x 2)

RTC Upgrades:
Aluminum Link Upgrade Kit and Hardware (AXA1407 Kit, AXA1411 Hardware)
Aluminum Knuckles and C-hubs (AX30495 C-hubs, AX30496 Knuckles)
Behind the Axle Steer Kit (BTA) (AX30533)
2.2 Internal Weight Ring (AX30545)
2.2 Internal Weights (AX30546 x 3)
Steel Transmission Outputs (AX30544)
CVD’s (AX30464)
Carbon Fiber Rear Axle Brace (AX30509)
Aluminum Shock Bodies (AX30120 x 2)
HD Ring and Pinion Set (AX30401 Front and/or AX30402 Rear)
SWX Chassis Kit (AX30506)
Steel Pinion Gears (13t – AX30571, 14T – AX30569, 15T – AX30573)

XR10 Upgrades:
Steel Pinion Gears (13t – AX30571, 14T – AX30569, 15T – AX30573)
Aluminum Link Kit (AX30434)
HD Machined Gear Set (AX30767 – AX30771)
Stage 1 Aluminum Kit (AX30432)
Wheel Weights (AX30546 x 3)
Super Soft Springs (AX30223, AX30224, AX30225 x 2)
Carbon Fiber Chassis Kit (AX30433)
Titanium Gear Shafts (AX30765 and AX30766)
Carbon Fiber Electronics Plate (AX30772)
Carbon Fiber Battery Plate (AX30774)

Video Tutorial – XR10 Electronics Set-up

Here’s a little video covering installation of electronics in an XR10. Video covers 4PK programming and mixing, ESC/motor wiring, BEC install, etc. This should help answer a lot of questions on setting up an XR10 for front and rear dig. Thanks to Josh for making this video for us.

Frequently Asked Customer Service Questions

I decided to sit down with our customer service reps recently to see what kind of questions they get asked the most on a week to week basis. Some of the questions they get asked I expected, and some I didn’t. So, I decided to highlight the most popular questions here on the blog, with answers. Hopefully, this will help newcomers find solutions for their issues even faster.

Electronic FAQs:
Q: Can I program or bind my AE-1 ESC (Speed control)?
A: No programming or binding is necessary on the AE-1 ESC.

Q: Can I purchase the AS-2 Servo?
A: We do not sell the AS-2 servo separately. We recommend getting a servo with at least the same torque specs which is 120oz at 6 volts.

Q: I am using the new 2.4 radio system (AX-2) and I have no forward or reverse.
A: Rebind radio system.

Q: How many cells or volts can the AE-1 ESC handle?
A: 6 cell (7.2 volt) , 7cell (8.4 volts) or a 2s Lipo (7.4 volts) Please note AE-1 ESC does not have a Lipo cutoff. AE-1 ESC requires a low voltage cutoff if using lipo batteries.

Q: How many cells or volts can the AE-2 ESC handle?
A: 6 cell (7.2 volt) or a 2s Lipo (7.4 volts). AE-2 ESC comes stock with lipo cutoff.

Nitro Engine FAQs:
Q: What is the stock needle settings on my Axial Racing engine?
A: The Low and Mid range needles stock settings are flush. The high speed needle should be set even with the grove on the high speed assembly or 3 ½ – 4 turns from closed. All Axial Racing engines are preset from the factory for break in. We recommend using Axial Racing fuel filters (Part # AX0504, AX0501 or AX0502).

Service and Repairs:
Q: If I have a problem with Axial Racing products who should I contact?
A: For Service on your Axial Racing Product contact our customer service department.

Q: What temperature should I be running my engine at?
A: No Higher than 275°

Q: What size battery can I fit in my XR10? Can you recommend a battery?
A: The max battery size you can use is 30mmx25mmx90mm give or take a few mm. I would recommend any 2-3S 25c or more and up to 1800mah. Please see the links or part numbers below of a few batteries our team drivers use.

MaxAmps 1800mah 3S Lipo

MaxAmps 1300mah 3S Lipo

MaxAmps 860mah 3S Lipo

Other packs that are compatible
TP1250-3SP45 1250mAh 3-Cell/3S 11.1V 6C 45C 90C 7.5A 56A 112A 115 18 x 31 x 92
TP1750-3SP45 1750mAh 3-Cell/3S 11.1V 6C 45C 90C 10.5A 78A 157A 153 25 x 31 x 92
Common Sense Lectron Pro 11.1 volt – 1150mAh 25C Li-Poly Pack #3S1150-25-L

Q: What is the best set up for my XR10 Chassis?
A: This is a tricky question. The ideal setup really depends on the type of terrain you drive on. Large smooth rock surfaces with gradual transitions usually lead to a course having lots of steep climbs and side-hilling. On this type of terrain it’s ideal to run a lower center clearance to keep the XR10 as stable as possible by getting the weight of the chassis lower. The opposite would be terrain with lots of abrupt transitions and undercut climbs, this would require a higher center clearance to allow for the chassis to easily “break-over” these obstacles without getting hung up or thrown off your line.
A: Please see the link below of some of our team driver set ups. You can always follow our blog for the latest tips and news.

Q: Can I convert my ax10 into a SCX10?
A: Yes. Refer to the link below on Axial’s Blog for more information on this conversion.

Giveaway – Two Custom Rock Crawlers

For the holiday season the vendors of got together and donated enough parts to build 2 separate complete trucks that will be given away on the RCCrawler forum. Axial was very excited to be part of these giveaways for the holiday season. A huge thanks to all the vendors on RCC that helped make these builds happen.

Link to front page announcement on RCC

Link to scale Bronco giveaway

Link to Sport Crawler giveaway

You must be a star holding member on RCC to enter. Click the link below to find out how you can become eligible for this giveaway.

Happy Holidays from everyone at Axial Racing!