AX90046 SCX10 II Jeep Cherokee Kit Build Series – Part 6

AX90046SCX10II_JeepCherokeeKit_Build_Series_Part6

Assembling the Wild Boar Driveshafts is a fairly simple task and should only take you a few minutes to complete. There are however a few tips we’re going to throw in to make sure the parts work well for those long treks on the trail. Ready, set, build!

TOOLS NEEDED
2mm Hex Driver
Side cutters
Supplied grease and threadlock also required

STEP 1
Axial SCX WB Driveshafts 1
Start by cutting the driveshaft parts from the parts trees. The trees have various size driveshaft parts on them so reference the manual to see exactly which parts you need.

STEP 2
Axial SCX WB Driveshafts 2
Here we start to assemble the driveshafts and it is extremely important to add thread lock to the screws before inserting them into the driveshaft and screwing it into the universal mounting boss.

STEP 3
Axial SCX WB Driveshafts 3
After the end is screwed into the driveshaft, place a small dab of grease on the hex driver and use it to coat the inside of the driveshaft end.

STEP 4
Axial SCX WB Driveshafts 4
With the ends greased, you can slip the universal barrels into the ends.

STEP 5
Axial SCX WB Driveshafts 5
Slip the drive cup over the end and line-up the cross-pin holes. Once the holes are lined up, you can insert the pins.

STEP 6
Axial SCX WB Driveshafts 6
To secure the pins in place, you’ll simply need to slide the plastic sleeve over the cups. Set-screws will hold these in place later.

STEP 7
Axial SCX WB Driveshafts 7
Assemble the rest of the driveshaft by inserting the appropriate slider into the Wild Boar shafts.

STEP 8
Axial SCX WB Driveshafts 8
Now the shafts are attached to the transmission output shafts. Here you’ll use the set-screw pins to secure the drive cups to the output shaft. You may use a dab of threadlock on the set-screws for extra security. Note, if the holes for the drive cup do not line up with the shaft, you may have installed the shaft incorrectly, go back and rebuild the gearcase if necessary.

STEP 9
Axial SCX WB Driveshafts 9
The skidplate is up next for installation. This is simple, secure it to the transmission case with the two provided flathead allen screws.

STEP 10
Axial SCX WB Driveshafts 10
The transmission mounts are installed next. Pay close attention to the direction in which they are installed. Snug the two buttonhead screws that secure the mounts.

FINISHED
Axial SCX WB Driveshafts 11
With several sections of the manual complete, the next steps will really start turning parts into an actual rig. Make sure you check back for the next part of our kit build!

AX90046 SCX10 II Jeep Cherokee Kit Build Series – Part 5

AX90046SCX10II_JeepCherokeeKit_Build_Series_Part5

We’re getting into some fun territory here on our SCX10 Jeep Cherokee Kit Build, moving on to the transmission assembly. The build is fairly straight forward with a few notes that you need to know in order to build this important part of the vehicle properly. You’ll only need a few tools here such as a 2mm hex driver, needle nose pliers and the kit box wrench. Let’s build!

STEP 1
Axial SCX Transmission2
First up is building the gearshafts which is faily simple unless you jumped right into putting parts together and not reading the manual. Note, there are two bearing sizes in the parts bag. The larger bearings are used in this step. Also there are two types of cross pins used to support the gears. You’ll need to use the larger pins here. And finally make sure you use the correct spacer tubes on the shafts shown here. Slide the parts together as shown.

STEP 2
Axial SCX Transmission3
Now we can slip the assembled shafts into the transmission half. Before doing so, coat the gears in grease.

STEP 3
Axial SCX Transmission4
Slip the other half of the transmission case on the shafts and give them a little wiggle to help seat the bearings in the case. Screw the halves together and install the transmission support post.

STEP 4
Axial SCX Transmission5
The transfer case is assembled next. Push the bearings into the case first.

STEP 5
Axial SCX Transmission6
This is somewhat of a tricky step. You’ll want to start by pushing the transfer case half on to the transmission over the output shaft. Then you’ll need to use your pliers to install the small cross-pin that keys to the gear. Once that is done, you can install the rest of the gears, shafts and pins. Then place the outside transmission half on and bolt it together with the supplied hardware.

STEP 6
Axial SCX Transmission7
The motorplate and back half of the gearcover are up next. These are simply pressed together and bolted onto the transmission case with three screws.

STEP 7
Axial SCX Transmission8
The slipper assembly gets a few notes too. Start by washing your hands. You don’t want greasy fingers on the pads. Next remove the white paper from the pad revealing the adhesive. Carefully place the pad into the keyed spur gear. Do this for both sides. Now slip a metal plate on the top shaft, followed by the spur gear bushing, the spur and then the second metal plate. Follow this with the spring and retaining nut. Tighten the retaining nut until you see 2-3 threads of the top shaft. This is a good starting point until you adjust the slipper later.

STEP 8
Axial SCX Transmission9
Finalize the slipper assembly by installing the spring and retaining nut. Tighten the retaining nut until you see 2-3 threads of the top shaft. This is a good starting point until you adjust the slipper later.

STEP 9
Axial SCX Transmission10
Now is the right time to install your motor and pinion gear. There is a slot in the side of the gear cover that will allow you to tighten the pinion gear with your 2mm hex driver. Take your time to set the gear lash properly so it doesn’t bind, nor is too loose.

STEP 10
Axial SCX Transmission11
Button up this transmission build by installing the gear cover on the front. Just be sure to carefully slide it on so the tab covers the slot where your hex driver was used to install the pinion.

AX90046 SCX10 II Jeep Cherokee Kit Build Series – Part 4

AX90046SCX10II_JeepCherokeeKit_Build_Series_Part4
We’re moving into a tricky area of our SCX10 II Build, the shocks. The AX90046  comes with the licensed Icon Vehicle Dynamics aluminum body oil filled coil-over shocks (AX30103) which are the preferred shocks for serious off-roaders. The shocks go together nice and smooth and offer excellent performance on the trail. Of course we do have a few tips to pass along to help you with building them so let’s get right into it.

GET READY
Axial SCX Icon Shocks 1
Like we’ve suggested in previous posts, it’s a great idea to get all the parts together that you’ll need to build this part of the kit. For tools you’ll need a pair of side-cutters, long nose pliers and we suggest TLR shock shaft pliers to hold the shafts. You can find TLR pliers HERE.

STEP 1
Axial SCX Icon Shocks 2
First up, we need to install the spring pre-load nut on the shocks. Using side-cutters, cut the nut off the tree and screw it onto the shock with the flange side facing the logos. Screw the nut on several threads so the shock caps can be installed later.

STEP 2
Axial SCX Icon Shocks 3
Oh, this is a fun job! Installing the e-clips on the shock shafts, watch out, they could go flying if you are not careful! With your needle nose pliers, snap the e-clip into the lower slot on the top of the shock shaft. Then slide your piston over the shaft and secure the top with another e-clip. Take your time here so you don’t lose any clips or damage the piston with the pliers.

STEP 4
Axial SCX Icon Shocks 4
Here is a tip you may not know. Before installing the o-rings in the shock, place them in a plastic bag from the kit followed by a few drops of shock oil and make sure they’re coated. This helps the shock feel smoother when completed.

STEP 5
Axial SCX Icon Shocks 5
Why are we showing you the shock o-ring spacers in a stand-alone photo? It is critical to cut the spacers from the tree without any extra plastic flashing. Extra plastic here could cause unwanted friction in the shock.

STEP 6
Axial SCX Icon Shocks 6
It’s time to install the shock seals into the bodies. Slip one o-ring into the base of the shocks, followed by the plastic spacer, then another o-ring followed by the lower shock cap. Tighten the lower cap firmly. After the seals are assembled, place a dot of oil on the shock shaft threads and slips the shafts into the shock bodies.

STEP 7
Axial SCX Icon Shocks 7
The lower shock ends need to be screwed onto the shock shafts. Do not use knurled pliers to hold the shaft, this could damage the shaft which will tear the o-ring seals. We suggest using shock shaft pliers to hold the shafts while installing the ends. Then pop the pivot balls into the shock ends.

STEP 8
Axial SCX Icon Shocks 8
You’ll need to prep the top shock cap before you fill your shocks with oil. These Icon replica shocks come with faux reservoirs for scale style. You’ll need to place the Icon logo on the reservoirs and then screw them to the shock caps. You’ll also need to slip an o-ring seal into the top of the cap. Watch, the o-ring may fall out. If this happens, placing a drop of oil in the cap can help keep it in place.

STEP 9
Axial SCX Icon Shocks 10
Fill the shock bodies with oil. After you fill the shock with oil almost to the top, take the shock shaft and slowly cycle it up and down. This will release any unwanted air.

STEP 10
Axial SCX Icon Shocks 11
Before screwing on the shock cap, push the shock shaft almost all the way up to the top.

STEP 11
Axial SCX Icon Shocks 12
With the shock shaft at the top, screw the shock cap onto the body and wipe off any excess oil with a paper tower. When the shock is assembled, the shock shaft should be able to be pushed all the way up to the top. If you have a large gap of shock shaft showing, you will have to bleed out excess oil. To do so, loosen the cap a few turns and push the shaft up. Oil should bleed out. Once a little oil bleeds out, retighten the cap and try it again. Keep bleeding the shock until the shaft reaches the top.

STEP 12
Axial SCX Icon Shocks 13
We’re getting close to wrapping up these shocks! Slide the springs over the shock bodies and slip on the shock perch. Snap an additional pivot ball into the shock caps.

FINISHED
Axial SCX Icon Shocks 14
Here’s how your shocks should look once completed. Note that there are front and rear springs so place them on the vehicle later accordingly.

Customize Your AR44’s In Minutes

Customize_AR44
One of the best parts to owning an Axial SCX10 II is your ability to customize it to make it your own. There are plenty of performance and accessory parts to choose from and in this blog we’re going to show you how to customize your SCX10 II’s AR44 axles. This accessory swap should only take you minutes to perform and cost you under $10 for each axle. Here’s what you need to know.

PARTS NEEDED
Axial Black Axle Options 2
AR44 Black Differential Cover and Link Mounts- AX31437 (Quantity Needed: 2)

TOOLS NEEDED
Axial Black Axle Options 1
2mm Hex Driver

STEP 1
Axial Black Axle Options 3
Swapping out the differential cover is simple and can even be done while the axle is on the truck if you have a ball head 2mm hex driver. You’ll want to locate the four diff cover screw heads on the pinion out-put side of the axle and unscrew all four.

STEP 2
Axial Black Axle Options 4
After removing the four cover screws, pull the differential cover off, it’s in there pretty tight, so use some force to pull it from the axle housing.

STEP 3
Axial Black Axle Options 5
Break or cut the new black diff cover off of the parts tree in slip it into the axle. Make sure the indent on the cover faces the bevel gear side of the axle. Screw the four retaining screws back in and tighten them snug. This is how the axle looks with a black cover and red link mounts, a cool custom option.

STEP 4
Axial Black Axle Options 6
Want to swap the link mounts out too? First you’ll need to remove the suspension links and shocks from the mount. Then unscrew the mounts from the axle as shown above.

STEP 5
Axial Black Axle Options 7
Once you’ve installed the red mounts, break the black mounts from the parts tree and install them on the axle the where the red mounts were, paying close attention to how the mount is positioned. The link mount with extra support faces the bottom. This is how an all-black AR44 Axle looks.

FINISHED
Axial Black Axle Options 8
If you removed your axles from your rig, now is the time to reinstall them. Above is another option we wanted to show you. This axle is set up with black link mounts and a red diff cover. Build your axle the way you want it for a custom look!

AX90046 SCX10 II Jeep Cherokee Kit Build Series – Part 3

AX90046SCX10II_JeepCherokeeKit_Build_Series_Part3
Up next in the build series is assembling the links. Probably one of the best parts of the build, am I right guys?! Well, it might not be everyone’s favorite because it is some repetitive work, but what brightens up this particular job is that this kit comes with aluminum links which is preferred over composite links. This is some simple work but there are a few tips and tricks we can pass along.

TOOLS NEEDED
2.0mm hex driver
Side cutters

STEP 1
Axial Kit Build1
As always its best to gather the parts bags you’ll need and run through the steps in the manual quickly to help identify any details that require extra attention.

STEP 2
Axial Kit Build2
A little tip we like to pass along is to arrange the aluminum link tubes in size order so you identify them a bit easier as you go through the build steps.

STEP 3
Axial Kit Build3
Find the aluminum tubes used for the first link assembly. If you’re unsure of what size tube to use, you can place it on the 1:1 drawing to find the correct size.

STEP 4
Axial Kit Build4
Take a close look at the instructions to identify what rod ends you’ll need. There are a number of styles, some on angles and some are straight. You want to make sure the part number in the manual matches the rod end you use or there could be some suspension bind if you use the incorrect rod ends.

STEP 5
Axial Kit Build5
Using the 2mm hex driver, screw the set screws into the rod end until you just feel them bottom out.

STEP 6
Axial Kit Build6
Screw the rod ends into the aluminum tubes. Make sure the final locations of the ends match the illustrations in the manual.

STEP 7
Axial Kit Build7
Axial Kit Build8
Next you’ll need to insert the pivot balls into the rod ends. Note, the pivot balls have a large flanged end and a narrow end. Note the way they are installed as illustrated in the manual. Some links have both flanges face the same side while other links have an off-set installation.

STEP 8
Axial Kit Build9
The steering links and pan hard link should now be assembled. You can install them on the axle and steering knuckle with the hardware as indicated in the manual. Do not overtighten the screws. The pivot balls are plastic and can be crushed if you tighten the screws too much.

STEP 9
Axial Kit Build10
Next build the three links that will support the front axle and tie it to the chassis.

STEP 10
Axial Kit Build11
Screw the three links to the front axle, making sure the rod ends are facing the correct way as indicated by the illustrations.

STEP 11
Axial Kit Build12
By now you should have a good understanding of how the links go together. Assemble the four remaining rear links and attach them to the rear axle.

FINISHED
Axial Kit Build14
The link assembly is complete! If you used a hand tool, by now your wrist should be tires and your fingers sore from holding onto the rod ends. Congratulations you’re fitting nicely into the model community. Keep an eye out for the next steps of our build series where we’ll get into building the shocks.

Note: This How To Can Also be Used For Link Sets:
SCX10 II Front Links Set – AX31465
SCX10 II Rear Links Set – AX31466

AX90046 SCX10 II Jeep Cherokee Kit Build Series – Part 2

AX90046SCX10II_JeepCherokeeKit_Build_Series_Part2

Building your AX90046  kit is going to be a great and rewarding experience. You’ll see how each and every piece fits together and you control the build how you want it to be assembled. We’re starting the build at the beginning of the manual of course. This also means we’ll be starting with bag A and will eventually need to dip into some other bags of supporting parts.

TOOLS NEEDED
Axial Kit Build19
Cutters
1.5 and 2.0mm Hex Drivers

STEP 1

Axial Kit Build1

Open Bag A and organize your parts so you can see everything you’re working with.

STEP 2

Axial Kit Build2

Start by assembling the spool and ring gear. The gear is held onto the spool with three M2x8mm screws. Use a small drop of the included thread locking compound on each screw before installing it. Tighten the screws well so they do not back off. Then slip the 7x14x3.5mm bearing onto each end of the spool. Make two of these.

STEP 3

Axial Kit Build3

You now need to search for additional parts outside of Bag A. Look for Plastic Bag 1. This will have the axle parts you need for the next several steps.

STEP 4

Axial Kit Build4

Push the appropriate bearings into the plastic axle housing that support the bevel pinion gear followed by the gear itself. Take the supplied grease, puncture the end and liberally coat the ring gear on the spool with grease. More is better here, but make sure you have enough to coat the axle gears and the transmission gears later in this build.

STEP 5

Axial Kit Build5

Slip the spool assembly into the axle housing. It will only fit in one way. Cap the axle with the cover and the four M2.6x18mm screws. Use a quality 2mm hex driver to tighten the screws to a firm feel.

STEP 6

Axial Kit Build6

Next find the rest of the plastic axle components. When it time to cut them from the parts trees, use a good quality sprue cutter.

STEP 7

Axial Kit Build7

Cut the steering knuckle from the tree and insert the appropriate bearings into the knuckle to support the front universal shafts.

STEP 8

Axial Kit Build8

Push the universal driveshafts into the bearings.

STEP 9

Axial Kit Build9

Turn your attention back to the axles. It’s time to install the C-carriers. Slip the bearing into the axle followed by the carrier and secure it with the screw. Take extra time here and follow the manual. These carriers are installed in a certain way that is well diagrammed in the manual. Failure to install them correctly will result in some funky geometry that will not work well on the trail.

STEP 10

Axial Kit Build10

Slip the assembled driveshafts with carriers into the axle housing. You’ll then use the shoulder screws to secure the knuckles to the C-carriers. Take note of the direction of the parts here too. When screwing in the shoulder screws, make sure they are a bit past snug. Don’t over-tigthen the shoulder screws or you chance stripping out the C-carrier.

STEP 11

Axial Kit Build12

Gather up the parts to complete the rear axle assembly.

STEP 12

Axial Kit Build13

Slip the half-shaft into the axle housing making sure the flat end keys into the spool. Then place a bearing at the end of the shaft.

STEP 13

Axial Kit Build14

Slide the axle extension tube over the half-shaft and secure the part in place with the pinch screw.

STEP 14

Axial Kit Build15

We’re getting close to wrapping up the axle assembly. Locate the link mounts and secure them using M2.6x1mm screws. Tighten these screws firm, they support the suspension links. Install two link mounts on each axle case.

FINISHED

Axial Kit Build18

Here are the assembled front and rear axles. This build blog would also be helpful if you were building the AX31438 AR44 Locked Axle Set for a custom project. Take your time and build the axles right for smooth bind free operation.

AX90046 SCX10 II Jeep Cherokee Kit Build Series – Part 1

AX90046SCX10II_JeepCherokeeKit_Build_Series_Part1
The debate over which style of RC kit is better, ready to run or build kit, may never be resolved, but one thing is for sure, Axial serves up both styles for either type that suits your style. Since Axial builds a lot of projects, the team tends to lean towards a kit to build and well there are some exciting build projects in the works. So while we’re building up a new AX90046 SCX10 II™ 2000 Jeep® Cherokee 1/10th Scale Electric 4WD Kit to use as the base for a build, we charged up the camera to take some pictures along the way of a stock kit build. If you have any questions about building your SCX10 II kit, you’ll be able to reference this build series to get you through any steps. In the first part of this series, we’re going to go over the basics of the kit itself and things you’ll need for the perfect build.

2
When you get your kit, the first thing you should do is? Anybody? Empty the box and roll around in the Axial goodness? No that’s just too weird man. The first step is to go through the contents and familiarize yourself with what’s in the box.

3
Put your hand on the body, flip the box over and viola! The kit contents all packed up in an XJ shell.

5
Here’s the bag you should get into first. The bag with the manual.

7
If it’s your first time building a kit, you should read through the manual first. Look at what you need. Take note of hardware sizes. Look at the types of parts. What parts bags go with what steps. A run through ahead of time will minimize miss steps or something else that may throw your build off track.

8
When going through the steps, take out some of the parts bags so you know what to look for when you get to that particular step later.

9
The need to open a new bag may come at any time.

10
Sometimes it’s a good idea to lay out the parts bags in the order you’ll be assembling them.

12
13
14
Wait! What are these green nubs and the religious item included in the kit? These green domes are course markers. They are put on the trail so you know where to drive your rig. If you get into competitions, you’ll see more of these on the trail. The silver tool is a cross-wrench that will service most hardware nuts on the truck.

16
Now let’s get into what you need. With most kits, you’ll need electronics and you’ll need to pick these items up at your local hobby retail store or your favorite online business; Horizon Hobby has all of the gear shown above. For the SCX10 II Kit, you’ll need a radio with receiver, a steering servo, motor, speed control, battery, charger and possible connectors for your ESC.

17 18
Next up on the you’ll need list is tools. There are two examples above. The top is a bit more expensive tool set-up while the set below is a less expensive set that will get the job done too. You’ll need cutters, pleirs, a hobby knife, scissors, hex drivers and even nut drivers to complete the assembly of your kit. Here are some links to the tools above:
Dynamite Metric Hex Driver Set- DYNT2030
Dynamite Nut Driver Set- DYNT2010
Dynamite Start-up Tool Set- DYN2835

19
Finally the chemicals you’ll need. Some CA glue such as the thin adhesive shown here from Dynamite for the tires and some paint for the body. Window masks are included with the kit, but if you want to spray your body more than one color, you may need some masking tape to use for your designs.

6
No seriously; did you read the manual? Do it, it helps. That wraps it up for the introduction of this build series. Make sure you follow the build each week while we get this truck ready for off-road action.

 

 

How To: Install the AXI31555 Blazer Hard Top

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Axial’s AX90058 SCX10 II 1969 Chevrolet Blazer is certainly one good-looking ride, but the addition of the AXI31555 Hard Top is sure to catch the attention of many Blazer fans. In this article, we show you a step-by-step procedure on how to mount this cap. But, before we do, let’s go over some of the tools you’ll need to get the job done.

TOOLS NEEDED:
1. 1.5mm Hex Wrench
2. Scissors (specialty scissors for cutting polycarbonate plastic)
3. Reamer (for drilling holes)
4. Paint (for polycarbonate bodies)

LIST OF PARTS USED:
AX90058 Axial SCX10 II 1969 Chevrolet Blazer RTR
AXI31555 Axial Blazer Hard Top

STEP 1

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Before we build, let’s look at what comes in the AXI31555 Blazer Hard Top package. There’s the polycarbonate plastic shell, instruction sheet, window masks, sticker sheet and hardware bags. Easy enough, right?

STEP 2

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top A closer look at the instruction sheet. It also documents the opening rear window, a cool feature but more needed to get to the body clips!

STEP 3

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Window masks. I peeled off the excess to make it easier to see the actual window parts. Note the top and bottom are for the side windows, the center is for the rear window.

STEP 4

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Before you stick the window masks on, make sure you wash the Hard Top with soap and water. Dry it completely – you may even want to let it sit out for a little bit to air dry, just to be sure. Peel off the masks and stick them on. They don’t have to be perfect as we’ve included external decals, but you want to get them as close as possible.

STEP 5

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Paint whatever color you want; I did black since I figured it would match the Blazer body well.

STEP 6

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top After the Hard Top is done drying, cut it out, remove the window masks and the overspray film. Now, as an added detail, sprayed the outside of the Hard Top with a matte clear coat to soften up the shine. If you want to replicate this, DO NOT remove the overspray film. First, use a sharp blade (Xacto brand, Olfa, etc) and cut out around the windows, then remove the overspray film. If you don’t cut out the windows, you’ll clear coat them as well and you won’t be able to see through them.

STEP 7

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Using the hardware enclosed, attach the mounts to the Hard Top. Note that there are two different designs of mounts; you don’t want to mix these up when you install them. Read the instructions carefully.

STEP 8

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Assemble the swiveling tailgate mount…

STEP 9

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top …and attach it to the tailgate. You’ll need to notch the tailgate first; there are scribe marks to show you where to cut.

STEP 10

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Attach the tailgate assembly to the Hard Top.

STEP 11

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top The tailgate should swing freely. If not, you may need to trim the notches until it does.

STEP 12

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Here’s a quick inside look at the tailgate mounted to the Hard Top. You can also, at this time, attach the tailgate lift handle.

STEP 13

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Ream 4 small holes into the Blazer body; there are already dimples in place. Note that you only need to ream the front- and rear-most holes as shown.

STEP 14

How To: Install the AX31555 Blazer Hard Top Set the Hard Top in place and attach with the supplied hardware. Set your completed Blazer down, step back and revel in your masterpiece!

Tips For Spray Painting Bodies

Tips4Painting_Lexan_Bodies
A task simple for some can be daunting for others. Spray painting an RC bodies is one of those tasks. For those who have not painted a body before, you’ve found the right blog to read. We’re going to show you just how to paint your first body successfully. These are simple tips and tricks that will allow you to paint your body so when you’re finished, it looks like it came from the factory. Let’s get started.

Axial Spray Paint1
We’re going to paint these RR10 Bomber panels for an upcoming project so they will be the demo pieces for this blog. Before you get started, here are a few things you’ll need to have on hand to get the job done. First, you’ll need spray paint of course. Make certain it is a polycarbonate compatible spray paint. This type of paint will adhere itself to the Lexan. Other paints may not adhere and flake off as soon as you roll your rig over. You’ll also need some dish soap, paper towels, masking tape and some warm water.

STEP 1
Axial Spray Paint2
The first step is to wash your body or panels. When the body is molded at the factory, sometimes oils from the molds or even someone’s hands can get on the body. Using the dish soap, a paper towel and some warm water, wash the body well and rinse out all of the soap.

STEP 2
Axial Spray Paint3
Now use some more towels to dry the body. Do not leave any water on the body. Get into all the creases with the towel to get the water out or it will deflect the paint leaving fish-eye like marks.

STEP 3
Axial Spray Paint7
We’re getting close to spraying the paint. Before you do so, you’ll want to shake the can of paint for a few minutes to mix the contents as you would do with any can of paint. Now here’s an additional trick some painters don’t share. Run warm water over the can to help warm the contents. This will help pressurize the can and make the spray come out in a fine pattern to better coat the body.

TIP
Axial Spray Paint4
Another tip we have is to hold the body about 8-10 inches from the spray can. Spray too close and you can get drips or uneven spray patterns. Spraying farther away will help coat the body evenly.

STEP 4
Axial Spray Paint5
Now it’s time for your first coat. In one direction, either horizontally of vertically spray the body. Don’t spray the body directly. Start spraying and move the can across the body and stop spraying when the can has past the body. If you hold the can directly at the body and spray, you can’t just blobbing the paint in one spot. Now for the next pass, shift the can and repeat the process until the body has a very light first coat of paint. Set the body aside and let it dry; fifteen to twenty minutes is a good drying time.

STEP 5
Axial Spray Paint6
Time for the second coat. Basically repeat the steps above. Warm the can, note your spacing, start your spray before the body and stop after you’ve passed over the body. Hold the body up to some light to see how the coverage is. Here our second coat covered well on the right side, we’re going to make one or two more passes on the left side to even up the coverage and then set it aside to dry.

STEP 6
Axial Spray Paint8
Here is the interior of our bomber after the third coat. We still have some clear spots to fill in. To do this, we’ll get just a little closer with the can to get the paint into the hard to reach areas. If you are spraying flat panels, keep your distance and spray over the light areas.

TIP
Axial Spray Paint9
Some panels can be difficult to hold. Using some tape, stick it to the panel and make a small fold in the center to hold onto.

TIP
Axial Spray Paint Tip
Be aware that some colors may need to be backed by another color. Fluorescent colors typically need to be backed with white. Candy colors can be backed with white, silver, gold and sometimes even black. If your solid color still seems transparent, consider backing it with white or even a silver. Keep in mind that whatever color you use to back your paint may alter the main color. So if you spray black behind red, it may turn the red dark. It may be better to back red with a silver as if the red is too transparent, a white might make it look pink. Here’ we’re backing this white panel with silver to give it a more opaque look.

FINISHED
Axial Spray Paint10
There we have it, a perfectly painted interior for our Bomber. Don’t forget to pull the overspray film off of the Lexan before applying decals. The interior is now ready to be installed. We hope this simple spray painting tutorial helps you spray paint your first body shell. Make sure to check back often on the Axial Blog as we’ll get into more complex paint jobs in the future.

 

 

Axialfest 2018 Skeeno Report Part 3

Axialfest 2018 Skeeno Report Part 3

In Part 1 of the Axialfest 2018 Skeeno Report, I showed you the sights and sounds of Day 1, or Wednesday, at Axialfest 2018. In Part 2, I recapped my Thursday at Axialfest 2018 where I visited more vendors, saw more people trailing, checked out the Concours builds, and finished the day off with the CKRC Dollar Dash!

This is Part 3 of the Axialfest 2018 Skeeno Report.  In this edition, I will be running the Altra Ultra 5K, checking out more vendors and trails, monster trucking, parading, and finishing up with a nighttime trial run.  Come see what I saw on Friday at Axialfest 2018.

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My morning started off with Mista Tree cooking us breakfast, so I would be fueled up for the Altra Ultra 5K.

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Tree had the brilliant idea to reheat the sirloins and have a little steak and eggs for breakfast.  It was delicious.

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After fueling my belly, I was pumped and ready to run! My servo was upgraded after Axialfest 2017, so I was confident that I could finish this year.

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Looks like a pretty good crowd already, and it was only 7:30 a.m.

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Even Mr. Cru Jones looked a little sleepy, but he woke up and ran the Altra Ultra 5K, too. Hey, #47, that was my number last year.

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Two things I want, a new set of Lone Peaks and a 2018 Altra Ultra 5K FINISHER plaque.

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I noticed quite a few runner sporting gators. I took that to mean they were serious.

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Question: Should gators be color coordinated or mismatched to stand out? Asking for a friend.

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Mr. Hobby Wing aka Swanky Su aka Charlie Sue aka Charlie Suanka was ready to test out his new Hobby Wing brushless setup; totally programmable by Bluetooth, sweet!

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A little National Anthem before lighting the lipos!

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Ready to go.  I think there were 64 of us this year.  Are you running the Altra Ultra 5K next year?

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Mighty Mike T headed out WAY before me.

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That’s MTB legend Mike Bier, I mean Mark Weir, in the far lane.  He had prior commitments and couldn’t attend the whole time at Axialfest 2018, but he made sure he stopped by just to run the Altra Ultra 5K.

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It’s a bad sign when you have a mechanical before the first turn.  I hope they get it sorted and get back out there quickly.

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I didn’t do much running through the river bed.  All the rocks made footing a little sketchy and I didn’t want to risk a twisted ankle, so I settled for a quick walk. Also, it’s difficult to jog, drive, and take pictures all at the same time.

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That’s Half Link in the rear.  I tried to keep pace with him, but he eventually left me in his dust.

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The DWTS Crew set up a little fun log jump obstacle be their campsite. You could crawl it to the right or send it to the left.  Best believe I sent it every lap.  I wasn’t scurred.

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This hill was the Widowmaker.  It was steep and made you see stars by the time you got to the top, especially once you were over a mile in on your second and third laps.

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At least there was some relief after the climb in this downhill section.

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There’s that dang Half Link again.  I thought I was about to catch him here while straw hat man did some trail maintenance.

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You had to keep your ears open because there were logging trucks running.  You didn’t want to run out in front of one of those. Luckily, marshals were on the look out for you and let you know when it was safe to cross the road.

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Ben Thomas tried to catch me here in the old waterfall section.

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Since I wasn’t in contention to podium and was just out to have fun and finish, I decided to take a small detour and drive through the MyTrickRC highway.  Glad I didn’t get stuck on the broken bridge.

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Just as I was finishing the second climb on the Widowmaker, my daughter texted me.

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She reminded me to stay hydrated, and not die.

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Thanks, Skeeno Jr.  I took a moment to take a sip from my water pack.

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There’s Mr. Chris all awake and running wild.

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Hmm, clear dirt, should I play it safe and take the high line?

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No, SEND IT!

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My Tekin RX8 held up without an issue.  Are those waterproof?

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Wait, are those scale buildings on the Altra 5K course? I better stop for a picture.

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Last lap.  I stopped to admire my Bomber snaking through some various obstacles.  These Axial RR10 Bombers definitely work well.

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I did it! I finished! Thanks to Tristan Judkins for the photo. I ran the whole race with my phone in one hand and the controller in the other; those are the sacrifices I make to bring you the Skeeno Blog.

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Heck ya! Got my plaque.  That’s going on the wall of fame in my garage.

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I knocked almost 20 minutes off my time for the last 5K I ran, and the course was really more like a 6.3K.

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And I got a Finishing Selfie with Mike Bier!

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The 2018 Altra 6.3K finishers! Who won?  I guess I’ll have to wait for the awards ceremony to find out.

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After the Altra 5K, I had some time to check out the trailing and some more vendors.  I noticed the REEF’s RC guys finally at their spot and got to ask what those cables were for. They told me they were to lock up their rigs when they weren’t around, so they didn’t drive off on their own, smart!

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The trails were pretty packed in the morning.

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Even Mr. Tree was out wheeling his Yota.

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The Bay Bridge was very busy.

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It was a long drive across, but not as scary as the Golden Gate bridge of last year.

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Shh, don’t wake that camper in the tent.

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I can’t believe MMA star Jamie Varner is an RC fan.

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Getting off the bridge was easy.

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These slick rocks are always more tricky than they look.

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These two were having a good time on the slick rocks.

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More people on the handicapped accessible trail.

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This was the start of the handicapped accessible trail.

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OG Chino was still rocking his Half Cab and twin sticks.  I don’t think he even noticed me he was so focused on this section.

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Feel the Powa! of the Power Wagon.

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Looks like Registration is closed for lunch. #flossanddab

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Back at the DWTS camp, Big Country and all his homies were set up and wrenching away.

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It’s like a sea of RC in there.

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Is that a DWTS bumper sticker?

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Don’t forget to stop and smell the flowers.  Enjoy the scenery and appreciate the beauty of the mountains.

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As the sun rose to mid afternoon, the temps also rose and people left the trails to try to stay cool. Under this bridge was a good chilling spot.

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I was only able to catch a few hardcore drivers out in the heat.

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Mr. Tree approves of this 4Runner.

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Some of the  rocks in this river bed were crazy big.

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Smile guys.

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I’m not sure if this is an action shot or a flex pose.

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He’s headed into the Unknown.

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Wait a minute, his rig wants to cool off in the river, too.

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It must have been refreshing, because this guy jumped in, as well.

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This is right about were I got hot and headed back for some more water and a snack.

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One thing I learned from our Austrian Axialfesters from a few years back is that they are not used to seeing big trucks on the road.  Even Average Joe and the Canucks were impressed with the 37″ tires on my trip up to the first Canadian G6. At Axialfest, there are big tires everywhere you turn your head.  RPP has big tires.

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Rivas’s A.T.A.C. 4Runner has pretty big tires.

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This FJ40 has big tires.

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This YJ has big tires.

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This XJ has big tires.

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KOH Champ Mr. Scherer definitely has big tires.

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The Prairie City SVRA approves of big tires. But, remember to use proper trail etiquette.

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I’m not sure where she’s riding, but that helmet and elbow pads say, SEND IT!

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Hey look, Magnaflow came again and brought some cool stuff for tomorrow night.

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I was lucky to spot Axialfest OG Brokenib out on the trail.

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He is still running the iconic Blue Bastard.

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I wonder if it’s still on 6S?

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The SPOD crew was following close behind.

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Down by the river more people were running the Knights Customs trail.

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This trail was popular with the kids.

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This Wraith is packed and ready for the long haul.

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This little girl was in a hurry.  She got a little annoyed when her father took a little too long on an obstacle.

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Dude, no cell phones when driving.  Don’t you know the rules?

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Luckily, we were off road, so no tickets this time.

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A fellow educator on the trial with his newborn.  I had a good time chatting with him and his wife.

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LOOK OUT!!!! DINOSAUR!!!!!

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These crazy aliens drove by like they weren’t even scared.

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What the heck? Is that the 1:1 Bomber? You never know what you’ll see at Axialfest.

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PS The Bomber has big tires.

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This guy was brave enough to save the submariners from the Jurassic Mosasaurus.

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The Dinosaur patrol is a little late.  The Raptors have already escaped.

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This was a great looking XJ.

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Rage at the River!!! There was quite a party going on by the overpass.

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This crew was enjoying the cold tub.  I kinda wished I had on my swim trunks.  The water looked great.

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It’s always cool under here with the breeze blowing off the water.

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Yoga by the river?

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Yup, more cooling off with the kids.

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Same idea but a little more controlled for the littles.

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I spotted this scale garage next to the road.  I loved the scale Ledgestone under the window.

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A couple years ago I spotted this teardrop at Axialfest.  It was in the initial stages of its build back then.

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It was a little more polished now with even more modifications to come. I wonder what it will look like next year.

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Those skeletons were still pickin and grinnin.

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I didn’t notice this scale garage at MyTrickRC when I ran by during the Altra 5K.

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Wait a minute, what’s this?

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The Monster Jam?!?!?!? I almost missed it.

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I’m always amazed at how difficult such an easy looking course is.  Competition makes the trigger finger get whiskey throttle.

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Elio and Pham look pretty serious.

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The kids were definitely serious.

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The kids love watching the carnage of the Monster Jam.

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Photo finish jump!

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Time for highest air.

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This guy blew his lid off.

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Hmmm, cool trophies. I don’t know what the classes were, but you can see the winners below.

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I swear, I turned around and the parade was just cruising by.  I almost missed this, too. There’s so much going on at Axialfest. Fun is everywhere!

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Is that a mile long Axialfest train?  It sure did feel like it. How long is a line with 2,000 people in it?

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The Monterrey Bay family was back again.  I recognized her pink livery from last year.

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At dusk, Tree, Mike, and I set out for a trail run.

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I see Mr. Tree back there trying to keep up.

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Dang, this day seemed extra long.  I woke up extra early to Altra 5K and stayed out late trailing into the Great Unknown.  See you in Part 4 of the Axialfest 2018 Skeeno report where we Rock Race and end a great week with the Axialfest 2018 Awards Ceremony and Raffle.